Do you know the Ruche Grape?

by Marisa D'Vari on March 10, 2010

chiara
Chiara Ferraris

Did you know that wines from Italy are the most imported wines to the USA?

In Manhattan, Italian wines are very hot, and they are most diverse and exciting at the restaurant I Trulli, which has hundreds of Italian wines on its list.

Now certain Manhattanites (you now who you are!) are known to like "mysterious" and "obscure" wines, and I Trullli has that covered with the exciting new Ruche grape, which is native to the Piedmont region of Castagnole. It is a wine meant to be drunk young, and express the terroir of the region. Its cherry, mineral, aggressive flavors pair well with rich dishes such as sweatmeats (or chicken livers) as well as aged cheese.

Only 32 producers make this varietal, and today's lunch was all about the winery Luca Ferraris in Piedmont, with the guest speaker Chiara Ferraris, wife of the owner/winemaker who I understand to be the largest exporters of the native varietal. Beyond Ruche, they produce another eclectic varietal, Grignolino d'Asti, which is sort of like a New World fresh, fruity, Pinot Noir, meant to be drunk young and can easily pair with white fish (such as trout) with earthier elements (i.e. mushrooms, pasta).

As the charming young Chiara spoke about Ruche and her other wines, I immediately sensed the quality of the wines and sophisticated personality of the Ferraris family.

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wine


It all started in the California gold rush years, when an ancient patriarch of the Ferraris family left his pregnant wife and three children in Italy for California and his chance at fame and fortune. In the fullness of time, he sent enough money 'home' for his family to buy a house. And though he continued to send money home, he never returned. The youngest son (whom he had never seen) came to California to seek him out, found him, yet was unable to convince him to return to Italy.

When Chiara, the daughter-in-law of the family, was asked if the family was upset by this abandonment, she remarked that all the money he sent home allowed the family to buy the house which is still used as part of their winery and that they have even named a wine after this ancestor. Chiara's husband Luca, the descendant of this California-bound ancestor, was quick at a young age to buy the land around the house and become a full time vignaron.

I liked the Ruche a great deal, yet you really must enjoy it with its native food and the I Trulli restaurant is a great setting. This wine was paired with sweetbreads, yet I think it can go with many rich foods. It is sold by the glass so you might also want to just order the glass and think about the remarkable story about Chiara and Luca Ferraris and their passion to bring an indiginous grape of the region to new life.


 The Menu and Wines are below



Featuring the wines of
Luca Ferraris
with Chiara Bizzocchi-Ferraris
March 10, 2010
12:30 pm

Grignolino d’Asti 2008
Luccio con Patate ai Capperi
Pike with Potatoes and Capers
~
Barbera d’Asti 2008
Tajarin con Funghi
Rich Egg Pasta with Mushrooms
~
Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato 2008
Finanziera
Chicken Livers and Sweetbreads, “Banker Style”
~
Monferrato Rosso Il Re 2006
Robiola
Assorted Piedmontese Cheeses and Accompaniments
 

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Pietro Ratti
Pietro Ratti

Tom Maresca and Charles Scicilone of New York's Wine Media Guild have done the impossible -- they have put together a fantastic tasting of 2005 Barolos with Pietro Ratti, son of the late Renato Ratti and owner of the family winery in La Morra, to come to NY and speak to us.

Overall, the wines were way too young, yet it was a rare treat to be able to compare wines from the different villages and the different producers.

As you probably know, Barolo was known as the "King of Wines and the Wine of Kings" for its muscular power. It is named after the town of Barolo, about nine miles south of Alba from the Nebbiolo grape. Laws specify it must age at least three years (two of them in cask), Riserva must age five years, and the maximum yield is 50 hl/ha.

Barolo is divided into five basic sub-regions, which are divided again by soil type. The town of Barolo and neighboring La Mora have calcareous and Tortonian marl, which are magnesium rich and produce a softer, more elegant and graceful wine. Towns of Monforte d'alba, Castiglione Falletto, and Serralunga d'Alba lie on an older, poorer sandstone, and iron rich marl called Helvetian. They are more powerful, denser, and said to sustain longer aging.

It was interesting to hear Mr. Ratti speak about the appellation, and I could really feel his passion. Now I can't wait to go and meet the producers myself!

 

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