
Chiara Ferraris
Did you know that wines from Italy are the most imported wines to the USA?
In Manhattan, Italian wines are very hot, and they are most diverse and exciting at the restaurant I Trulli, which has hundreds of Italian wines on its list.
Now certain Manhattanites (you now who you are!) are known to like "mysterious" and "obscure" wines, and I Trullli has that covered with the exciting new Ruche grape, which is native to the Piedmont region of Castagnole. It is a wine meant to be drunk young, and express the terroir of the region. Its cherry, mineral, aggressive flavors pair well with rich dishes such as sweatmeats (or chicken livers) as well as aged cheese.
Only 32 producers make this varietal, and today's lunch was all about the winery Luca Ferraris in Piedmont, with the guest speaker Chiara Ferraris, wife of the owner/winemaker who I understand to be the largest exporters of the native varietal. Beyond Ruche, they produce another eclectic varietal, Grignolino d'Asti, which is sort of like a New World fresh, fruity, Pinot Noir, meant to be drunk young and can easily pair with white fish (such as trout) with earthier elements (i.e. mushrooms, pasta).
As the charming young Chiara spoke about Ruche and her other wines, I immediately sensed the quality of the wines and sophisticated personality of the Ferraris family.

wine
It all started in the California gold rush years, when an ancient patriarch of the Ferraris family left his pregnant wife and three children in Italy for California and his chance at fame and fortune. In the fullness of time, he sent enough money 'home' for his family to buy a house. And though he continued to send money home, he never returned. The youngest son (whom he had never seen) came to California to seek him out, found him, yet was unable to convince him to return to Italy.
When Chiara, the daughter-in-law of the family, was asked if the family was upset by this abandonment, she remarked that all the money he sent home allowed the family to buy the house which is still used as part of their winery and that they have even named a wine after this ancestor. Chiara's husband Luca, the descendant of this California-bound ancestor, was quick at a young age to buy the land around the house and become a full time vignaron.
I liked the Ruche a great deal, yet you really must enjoy it with its native food and the I Trulli restaurant is a great setting. This wine was paired with sweetbreads, yet I think it can go with many rich foods. It is sold by the glass so you might also want to just order the glass and think about the remarkable story about Chiara and Luca Ferraris and their passion to bring an indiginous grape of the region to new life.
The Menu and Wines are below
Featuring the wines of
Luca Ferraris
with Chiara Bizzocchi-Ferraris
March 10, 2010
12:30 pm
Grignolino d’Asti 2008
Luccio con Patate ai Capperi
Pike with Potatoes and Capers
~
Barbera d’Asti 2008
Tajarin con Funghi
Rich Egg Pasta with Mushrooms
~
Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato 2008
Finanziera
Chicken Livers and Sweetbreads, “Banker Style”
~
Monferrato Rosso Il Re 2006
Robiola
Assorted Piedmontese Cheeses and Accompaniments
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