Tasting Champagne with Riedel Glassware
By Marisa D'Vari | December 11th, 2007 | Category: News | 3 commentsHave you ever wondered why champagne is served in a flute? A century ago, you'd expect champagne to be served in what was called a "saucer." Charmed by some gold-edged saucers while visiting a New Orleans antique shop, I bought several. They looked gorgeous on the table, but did little to improve the taste of champagne.
Now as you are obviously a wine sophisticate, you know that the shape of a flute is designed to enhance and concentrate the aroma and taste of champagne. Maximilian Riedel, however, the president of Riedel Crystal USA has other ideas and showed many of them to me during a recent interview.
First, Mr. Riedel encouraged me to taste test champagne that has been decanted and champagne served straight from the bottle. The difference in taste was apparent, but the real purpose seemed to be twofold: first, to relax the sometimes uncomfortable "fizzy" sensation of champagne in the stomach, and second, to make a more elegant and elaborate table display.
In restaurants, Mr. Riedel says that he also asks that his champagne be decanted — often to the surprise of sommeliers. When they attempt to correct him, Mr. Riedel pours them a glass of decanted champagne and asks them to taste them and be the judge. Mr. Riedel also surprises sommeliers when he asks that his champagne (note, this would be specifically Bollinger or another champagne that is primarily pinot noir) be served in a burgundy glass. I tasted this too, and agree that the aroma is more concentrated. If you have the Riedel burgundy glasses, popping open a bottle of Bollinger and asking friends to taste test can be a fun New Year's exercise.
While I enjoyed sipping champagne in unconventional ways (decanted, in Burgundy glasses) the important message from all of this is that glassware matters. Now while I'm not sure if I'll serve champagne in Burgundy glasses, I did come away with understanding the importance of glassware that is designed to enhance specific types of wine. This is especially important if you collect wines, have a keen appreciation for wine, or happen to be a student of wine. Aroma, as you know, matters. Riedel glassware is specifically shaped and engineered to enhance the aroma and thus the enjoyment of wine.
The reality that people concern themselves with buying the right "label" of champagne for a gift was brought home to me when I asked Mr. Riedel to suggest his favorite champagne for a gift I was planning to give a friend. "Why stop with champagne?" he asked. "Include glasses as well. Make a package of it!"
The idea immediately made sense. Champagne, once opened, lasts for an hour. A pair of Riedel glasses make a memory that continues on.
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I'm unclear on something – is it proper to decant all champagne or strictly those made from pinot noir? Or was the Bollinger reference strictly directed at Burgandy glasses?
Great blog! I enjoy reading the posts.
thanks,
harsh
Thanks Mr. Shah! Great question! While I can't answer for Mr. Riedel, I will give you my personal thoughts. I think "proper" is a personal choice. Decanting champagne is not very typical, but as a guest in a restaurant or the host in your own home, it is your own choice. Either way, asking for the champagne to be decanted certainly makes a statement. Anyone can make a case for champagne cups, flutes, Burgundy glasses, or even Chardonnay glasses (if the wine is mostly chardonnay) but in the end it depends on what "you" most prefer. My very personal opinion is based both on the conventional choice of glassware and my own thoughts. For example, if I was to host a dinner party I would have the Riedel "conventional" flutes out right next to the Burgundy glasses (if it was Pinot Noir based) or the Chardonnay glasses (if Chard based) as a fun way to get guests involved and express their own thoughts. Since quality glassware is an investment and if resources are limited, my personal choice would be to start with the conventional flutes, since the champagne flute is a conventional "symbol" of celebration and good times. Thanks again for the great question.
This was certainly an interesting article. I would not have thought of decanting Champagne. It might be worth a try to see if I detect any difference.