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A Visit to Domaine Du Complat

"I started this winery in 1979," says handsome, blue-eyed Jean-Louis Reculet, showing me around his vineyard and winery on a crisp January Sunday afternoon. A fat family cat scampers amongst the vines, just now in the midst of being pruned.

I have come to Bordeaux to meet with winemakers and, quite frankly, attempt to understand the key differences between the various appellations in the region. You have heard that the French pride themselves on their terroir, a word that reflects how the climate, soil, and a myriad of other factors in a vineyard are reflected in a glass of wine.

As well, you probably know the key difference between left bank wine and right bank wine, as the early ripening Merlot-based blends of the right bank grow best in clay soil, while the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon based blends of the left bank prefer gravel. But what of the AOC Première Côtes de Blaye, part of the 57 appellations of Bordeaux? How is the wine, and the techniques employed, different from regions of St. Emilion or Margaux?

Winemaking techniques may be similar, but what sets Domaine du Camplat apart from the more well-known regions of Bordeaux is the unique terroir (the soil is 70 percent limestone and 30 percent clay), and that Mr. Reculet works the land himself with the help of his son Thomas, with his daughter Marion handling marketing. When Mr. Reculet shows me his "tool museum" — a beautifully arranged collection of winemaking tools used by his father and grandfather — it is very clear that this family is passionate about creating top quality wines.

The family is kind enough to invite me to share their traditional Sunday lunch. As I do so I try the refreshing white (an oaked Sauvignon Blanc) and their delicious, award-winning 2003 Domaine Du Camplat red, offering a rich nose of black currant, and good integration of fruit and oak.

The first course is oysters, a specialty of the Marennes-Oléron basin, which pair excellently with the Sauvignon Blanc. As we enjoy the briny shellfish, Mr. Recoulet shows me a platter of raw steak, which he then roasts over an open fire adjacent to the dining room. Potatoes and mushrooms complement this dish, which is followed by four varieties of cheese. After lunch, Mr. Recoulet opens some bottles from the steep cellar conveniently located near the kitchen, including his first 1978 vintage.

Wines from Domaine Du Complat have won many international awards, and are very popular in both Belgium and France. If you haven't yet tasted the terroir of the Première Côtes de Blaye, this is one to experience and collect.

Contact Information:
Bordeaux Information (click on link)

Domaine du Camplat (click on link)
33620 Saint Mariens, France
+33 (0)5 57 68 51 90 // +33 (0)6 81 67 03 20

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