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Raise your wine glass if you think Gallo represents California wines. Now put it down – The Gallo family has long gone global, and now is focused on creating affordable, well-crafted “local wines from around the world.” I was lucky enough to attend a recent tasting at Manhattan’s fashionable Eleven Madison Park, where journalists could sample several international wines in Gallo’s collection.

One of the first to try is Bodegas Martin Codax Albarino 2008, founded in 1986 as a cooperative made up of about 50 local grape growers in Galicia, Spain. Gallo helped the winery grow while improving in quality and today the wines have won international awards and are for sale in 40 countries around the world. I buy this wine and it’s a good value with its slight aroma of peach, pear and sharp acidity on the palate. What’s interesting about this wine is that it is grown on a “pergola” trellis system to keep the grapes off the damp ground (it rains a lot in Galicia).

Next to taste was the Frei Brothers Reserve Wines, an excellent 2007 Chardonnay with a buttery, oaky nose and palate. In a story that could be called “it’s never too late” the original Frei Winery had been conceived by 70-year old ex-miner Charles Dunz, who developed the land, planted vines, and sold it to original owner Andrew Frei. E & J Gallo Winery bought the Frei Brothers winery in 1978. I detected some red apple on the nose which the winemaker described as “Gravenstein apple.” Curious as to what this would smell/taste like, I consulted a dictionary which says that this apple is considered to be one of the best all-around apples with a sweet, tart flavor. Next time I’ll have to locate this apple, buy the wine, and see for sure …

MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir is another Gallo holding, with the winery located in Healdsburg’s Russian River Valley. The land was originally owned by Col. Hugh Porter, veteran of the Mexican war, who used it as a cattle ranch. The Gallo family bought the ranch in 1996 and planted Pinot Noir, followed by other varietals. The PN 2007 had a sweet cherry nose with a hint of smoke, and a long finish filled with black cherries and blackberries.

Bridlewood Estate 2006 Central Coast Syrah is a dark pungent opaque purple-ruby with a nose of jammy blackberries, black currant, and spice. On the palate one experiences black fruit, and a roasted meat/bacon flavor along with mushrooms. Incredible quality at any price, and this one is under $20. The grapes grow on the high bed of an ancient seabed in the eastern Santa Ynez Valley on what was once an Arabian horse farm. From Argentia comes a Malbec from the Catena family, who began making Alamos Wines in 1993 to help meet the rising demand for Argentine wines. Alamos is located in the prestigious Mendoza growing region of Lujan de Cuyo. A small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon is added, in addition to Bonarda, and the wine was “conditioned” with French and American oak before the blend was assembled. The 2008 Malbec was lush with blueberries and black currant on the palate and a long, delicious finish of cloves and blackberry jam.

The last wine was Don Miguel Gascon Malbec 2008, jam-packed with blue fruit, cooked plums, delicate violets and mocha. The winery’s founder, Mr. Gascon, was born in 1861 in Aragon, Spain, grew up as a farmer, moved to Argentina, and became dedicated to proving that Argentina could produce fine wines.

Throughout the lunch winemakers told their stories, some apologizing for their English which was quite good. Yet even if it wasn’t, their passion for their wines rang true in any language. A delightful afternoon filled with many wonderful wine stories. Salute!

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