• Tweet

Banfi Brunello Tasting

So there is nothing quite like driving up to a romantic Italian castle in a private chauffeured limousine on a gorgeous sunny day – unless that includes tasting some of the world’s best wine.

Now the Italian castle in question is Castello Banfi, known in the 13th century as Poggio alle Mura. If you are an opera buff, you can probably imagine it in your mind’s eye – the green rolling hills, tall green trees (cypress?) and the imposing ochre colored castle with its turrets. Perhaps the only thing missing are the peasants working the land and the drama, intrigue, and jealously usually a staple in Italian operas.

We are here in Montalciano to tour the winery, the on-property accommodations called Il Borgo, and have lunch in its elegant Ristorante serving Mediterranean food inspired by seasonal local produce. In its first year the restaurant won a Michelin star, and is a recipient of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.

Meeting us at the “Enoteca” – the shop and tasting room where you can try wine by the glass – is the lovely and vivacious Lorella Carresi, who does Public Relations for the winery and over lunch told many stories about its origin  …
You may know that the American-born Mariani family is behind the Banfi brand. The family had their beginnings in olive oil imports about the turn of the century (throughout history, quality olive oil was often more expensive than wine) and by 1970, John and Harry Mariani were established wine importers visiting Montalchino to meet with Franco Biondi-Santi and taste his Brunello di Montalchino. Upon tasting the 1961 and 1964 vintage John asked if he could import fifty cases. They were immediate hits. Seven years later John returned to Montalchino to make his own wine using the multi-million dollar profit he made from selling a sweet sparkling Italian red called Riunite Lambrusco.

Today “Building Banfi” employs the latest technology in building and winery, with a whimsical element of fantasy as well. Stroll through this estate (the castle is the center point of a classical rustic re-created village where guests can stay in Il Borgo's luxuriously appointed rooms) and you will feel to be a feudal lord or lady. Guests have access to a very relaxing swimming pool area, reading rooms, and wine appreciation tasting events. Towards the end of that glittering summer afternoon, I was able to experience a private tour of the state-of-the-art winery. Let us just say that the facility is enormous, and ladies, leave those Manolo Blahniks at home.

Yet it really wasn’t until this afternoon, when Rudy Buratti (who had been Chief winemaker here for the past 27 years) gave a talk and tasting for Wine and Spirits Educational Trust diploma graduates in New York, that I realized what Banfi Brunello di Montalchino is all about. Today's talk focused on Brunello di Montalchino, and we learned how Banfi sought to create the best clones of Sangiovese and narrowed down 600 potential clones to 108. Today we tried Clone BF 30 Casanova Vineyard, Clone Janus 10 Casanova Vineyard, and Banfi Janus 50 Casanova Vineyard ... all very different with different concentrations of flavor and expressions of that flavor on a mathematical flavor wheel.

Flavor Wheel of the Clones ...

We tried Poggio All 'Oro (single vineyard Riserva 2004) that was incredibly rich and delicious, as well as two Brunellos, Poggio Alle Mura (2004) and Castello Banfi (2004) along with some single vineyard Sangiovese. Yet even the Sangiovese, we learned, could have different soils in just one single vineyard.

The two hour lecture was packed with information- yet there is so much to learn! Here's to bringing more information about these delicious wines to; you in further posts.

• Tweet