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…I had a chance to catch up with new developments at J Vineyards and Winery today with George F. Bursick, VP Winemaking, who was showing many of the company’s wines. Though the company had its foundation in sparkling wine, it now has ten estae vineyards totaling 257 planted acres in the Russian River valley.

It’s always interesting to taste wines with a winemaker at hand to ask questions – the J Vineyards Pinot Gris ($16) from the Russian River valley struck me as full bodied, fragrant, floral, and volumptuous.The reason, I discover, is that Bursick was able to add this fullness and tropical fragrance in the course of fermentation.

Similarly, Bursick was able to explain the winemaking behind the exceptional full body and delicious taste of the 2007 J Vineyards Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley. This is a great Chardonnay for people who love the full bodied, ripe, apple pie a la mode style … the fruit is very rich and ripe, yet you will find many nuances of flavor and surprising complexity for wines in the $28 price range. The 100% barrel fermentation is what gives the wine elegance, finesse, and incredible balance between acid, fruit, alcohol, and tannin. While the wine is clearly ‘new world’ in orientation by virtue of its ripe upfront fruit, its balance and complexity harken back to the old world.

What was most interesting though was the comparison of J Vineyards four Pinot Noirs. The 2007 J Vineyard Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is sourced from estate vineyards as well as selected growers in the Russian River appellation. I was struck by the delicious bright red fruit and complexity – very Burgundian yet with a New World orientation. The quality of this $35 dollar wine comes forward when you consider the night harvested fruit (to preserve freshness) and hand sorting, as well as the colk soak (3 – 10 days) to bring out the color and natural, extended masceration. The wine was aged 15 months in French oak barrels (30% new) with lots allowed to completely develop before blending.

As much as I really loved the 2007 J Vineyards Pinot Noir, I also enjoyed the premier quality Pinots from specific vineyards. I found it difficult to decide between Nicole’s Vineyard and Robert Thomas Vineyard – both were $65 and very different. 2007 J Vineyards Pinot Noir Nicole’s Vineyard was complex yet delicate, with interplay between red and black fruit. 2007 Robert Thomas Vineyard was initially more austere, then bit by bit more approachable with its mostly dark fruit and very firm sense of dark, solid terroir. It turns out they were named for owner Judy Jordan’s children so it is doubtful whether Ms. Jordan would also be able to state a preference. Both vineyards are treated with white gloves by Bursick, with careful night hand harvesting, gravity fed open-top fermenters, whole berry fermentation, and long aging in a mix of new and old French Oak Barrels that justify their small production, cult following, and $65 price.

The last wine I tasted, the 2007 J Vineyards Sonoma Coast, was also the most expensive at $70, and one of the most expressive as the berries were chosen from top individual vineyards as well as very special areas within the larger Sonoma Coast Appelation.

If you visit http://www.jwine.com you can find more information about the winery, history, visiting hours, and the many benefits of joining the wine club.

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