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My Week in Provence

Rosé wine from Provence has been famous for thousands of years, yet many people do not realize that the whites and reds of Provence are refreshing and delicious, with many of the barrel-aged reds worthy of long-term aging. 
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Though many people think of glitzy jet-set St. Tropez or touristy Marseilles when they think of Provence, recently I had the opportunity to spend nearly a week in the region visiting a variety of wineries and coming away with a remarkable impression of the area and the hard-working, dedicated, passion-driven producers who work the land.

Structurally, the framework of my visit began with François Millo, director of the CIVP/Provence Wine Council Leadership. Mr. Millo is a Provence native who has been with the CIVP since its formation in 2004. He welcomed me into his office and gave me an overview into the region, its extensive history, and why rosé from Provence is unique in the world. 

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Francois Millo

The CIVP/Provence wine council promotes the Provence brand and the wines of the region’s top six AOCs through efforts in four areas:

- Economic and market research and analysis

- Technical research, including sponsorship of the Center for Rosé Research in the town of Vidauban, the only center of its kind in the world

- Quality control and testing/tasting

- Marketing, communications, and public relations in France and in its countries of export, including sponsorship of the biennial International Congress on Rosé Wine

The Rosé story

Phoenicians brought the grape vine to France in 600 BC and produced rosé wines, possibly because its light refreshing style suited the climate. Later, the Romans improved vinification methods to the point that by the Middle Ages, they became the favorite wine of French Kings. Yet it wasn’t until 1977 that the Institute National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) awarded "Côtes de Provence" the Appellation d'Origine Controlée classification.
Whites and Reds.
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Everyone knows the story of rosé wine, yet Provence is increasingly becoming famous for its whites and reds, with many of the reds full bodied and meant for long term aging. Perhaps the biggest surprise of my visit to the various wineries was the discovery of grape called Tiboren for rosé, and the popularity of Rolle (Vermentino) in white blends. Some producers had the word “Vermentino” on the label, perhaps thinking that the name would play better in the international marketplace.

After my visit with Mr. Millo, I was invited to La Maison des Vins “Cotes de Provence” – a formal tasting room where visitors can try a revolving selection of wines from different producers and different regions.

Provence is an enchanting region with warm, welcoming people. I had read the Peter Mayle book about his year in Provence, and had seen the film A Good Year, yet didn’t really believe the villages could be so quaint. Yet every village I visited was so much like the film in terms of the warm, friendly people.
We experienced too our share of Michelin rated restaurants, yet the simple cafes were excellent values and served delicious food – especially a seafood salad on a hot day served with chilled young red wine.

Below is a list, and links to stories about the producers we visited, virtually all of whom offer guest rooms, with some offering elaborate meeting rooms and others cooking and produce shopping classes that can be customized to suit your needs.

The Wines of Provence web site is a terrific source of information when it comes time to plan your visit. Happy Travels.

Domaine du Clos d’Alari

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Chateau Roubine

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Abbaye Saint Hilaire

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Domaine de la Sanglière

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Domaine de Sulauze

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