Crave an exotic island rarely seen by American eyes? My first venture to the Greek island of Santorini revealed neat white houses up the sort of steep hill that later earns pedestrians of either sex complimentary shout-outs about their well-exercised calf muscles.

The trip also introduced the magic of the Santorini Vines. Unlike a vineyard you might have seen in Napa or France, that long-ago winter the vines were coiled up like gnarled, sage snakes, waiting to strike at the first sign of spring. And indeed, the vines are grown in the “kouloura” method which means they are woven into continuous circles to form a basket for protection from the strong winds and harsh summer sun. After many years of training the nutrients must pass through several meters of vine to finally reach the grapes, adding complexity. Santorini has the oldest vines in the world, with volcanic soil that adds a mineral component to the wines.

And indeed, Santorini had to wait a decade or more to produce the wines that are now so proudly sold in many top wine shops around America. New York recently has had many wines, and right now I am enjoying an Estate Argyros 2009 “Santorini.” It has a light and delicate nose of lemon blossom, and more citrus and minerals on the palate, along with the kind of elegant yet substantial body that would make it a perfect pairing with grilled white fish.

The Assyrtiko Grape

Assyrtiko or Asyrtiko is a white Greek wine grape indigenous to the island of Santorini. Assyrtiko is widely planted in the arid volcanic-ash-rich soil of Santorini and other Aegean islands, such as Paros. It is also found on other scattered regions of Greece such as Chalkidiki.

Estate Argyros

Established in 1904 and now run by the founders’ grandson,  Estate Argyros is a leading producer and I find its Estate Argyros 2009 delicious and an absolutely perfect pairing with white fish with its lemon blossom scent and lively acidity. 

Hatzidakis

Hatzidakis is another producer and their 2008 Santorini Assyrtikois lovely. Winemaker and oenologist Haridimos Hatzidakis, was lucky enough to work in large Greek wine industries before finally settling in Santorini and renovated an old 'canava', near Pyrgos village. The wine is rich in minerals, and may be technically dry (under nine grams RS per liter) yet has a certain sweet lift, perhaps from oak interaction Its a quite different, fuller bodied expression of the Assyrtiko grape.

Thalassiltis

Gaia -- another Santorina based producer - takes its name from the fact that In Greek Antiquity, mixing wine with sea water was a very well-known practice applied to give wine therapeutic properties. The wine resulting from this process was called “Thalassitis inos” (Sea – originated Wine). Of course, the Thalassitis wine I am enjoying was not mixed with sea water and is simply named for its close proximity to the sea!

Thalassitis is yet another classic example of of Assyrtiko: that delicious and delicate lemon blossom and citrus quality on the nose, with a strong mineral component and refreshing dry finish. i

These are all excellent wines to enjoy as we experience summer with all is opportunities to pair Assyrtiko with white fish or whatever your favorite pairing may be.