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One of the highlights of attending En Primeur in Bordeaux this year for me had been the opportunity to taste the new vintage of prestigious, historic Chateau Cheval Blanc, famed for nearly two centuries for its unique terroir. It received the highest rank of Premier Grand Cru Classé (A) status in the Classification of Saint-Émilion wine of 1955 and is one of Bordeaux’s most respected wines today.

Birth of Cheval Des Andes

With its illustrious history and small production, Chateau Cheval Blanc was and still is accessible to only the privileged few. Yet eleven years ago, Pierre Lurton, then Director of Chateau Cheval Blanc, became intrigued by the renaissance of Malbec in Argentina and the prospect of establishing a New World presence that would represent the best of the Old and New World, and also produce greater quantities of quality wine at more affordable price points. When in 1999 he tasted 1970s Malbec wine from the Las Computeras vineyard (the finest parcel of Terrazas de los Andes, then also owned by Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton) Cheval des Andes was born.

Today Pierre Lurton acts as Managing Director of Cheval des Andes in concert with Winemaker Nicholas Audebert. Recently, both Messrs Lurton and Audebert came to New York to introduce the fabulous 2006 vintage. Both gentlemen were absolutely passionate about their wine, which has received rave reviews and is notable for its ability to reflect its terroir.

Presentation of Cheval Des Andes 2006

Messrs. Audebert and Lurton presented the 2006 vintage in a structured tasting that began with the 1999 vintage (the first for the winery) and continued on to the yet unreleased 2008. The wines were uniform in color, yet varied in nose (depending on maturity and composition of varietals). Both gentlemen took turns discussing the vineyard, the climate, and other elements relating to vinification. As both a wine educator and student in the Master of Wine program, I relished the opportunity to get first hand information on the minute details that go into this quality wine. For example, even though the area is a warm growing region and sunny 360 days a year, vintage variation can be such that the winery did not produce a 2000 because the weather did not allow for the production of enough quality grapes.

The Vineyard

The vineyard lies on permeable clay, silt and shallow gravel soils that, due to their aridity, are extremely low in organic matter and also virtually immune to disease. Water from snow melt flowing from the Andes through an ancient system of canals built by the Incas washes minerals and nutrients into the soil, enhancing its complexity (yet the vineyard must still be irrigated). The difference between the high temperatures of day and cool temperatures of night creates phenolic complexity, a key element in quality wine.

The Blend

Blending the Malbec (from very old vines, which make for a very intense wine) and Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most important elements in the winemaking process. Each varietal is vinified separately, with the Cabernet Sauvignon aged in new French oak, and the Malbec aged in one year old barrels. The two men mentally plan what they would like the blend to express, and then begin the physical blend. “It is more of an art than perfume,” Mr. Audebert says, explaining that a perfume make has a recipe, and blending wine requires many different elements, senses, and a different kind of mental acuity.

“You make a great wine in the vineyard, not the winery,” Mr. Audebert says. “If you have great terroir you try to express that. Work in the winery is more like fine tuning. We don’t want to transform the wine too much.” For that reason, the winery uses manual pigeages (a gentle way of punching down), which allows a soft extraction, then it is matured for 18- 20 in French oak. At the end of the maturation period, the Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon are blended, undergo a fining process, and then are aged a year in bottle before the release.

Now the 2006 is composed of 60% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and that small but essential 5% Merlot, the color (or ‘robe’ as they say in French) was dark purple and intense, with a small violet/fushia meniscus. For me, the nose had the usual blackcurrant associated with Cabernet Sauvignon, plus some cherry and fresh red fruit. A swirl reveals black pepper and rosemary. On the palate, the wine was silky and elegant, with smoke and tobacco even at this early maturity. Mr. Audebert tasted it and pronounced “silky and mature tannins that combines with elegant notes of smoke and tobacco. Unctuous, juicy, with a long and persistent finish. A wine that perfectly combines its young vivacity with the elegance of a mature structure.”

New World Wine in Old World Style

I liked the 2006 a lot … and for ‘wine geeks’ reading this, who are accustomed to tasting wine blind and having discussions about whether it is “New World” or “Old World” this wine is great to try for that reason. It is a New World wine that presents itself in a very Old World fashion, with restrained fruit yet the muscularity of the new world.

You can find it on Wine-Searcher. Cheers!

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