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Fabulous opening dinner at Haut-Brion last night for the press ... Haut-Brion was the host Chateaux, with each table hosted by the members of the Grand Cru Classes de 1855 of Medoc and Sauternes. My hosts that night were Gonzague Lurton and his wife Clare of Chateau Dufort Vivens, Chateau Haut-Bages-Liberal, and Chateau Ferriere.

The reception was fabulous: perfect weather, all the ladies of the Chateaux gorgeous in their evening dress, and lots of Sauternes. Caught up with many old friends: Jane Anson, who writes about Bordeaux for Decanter and many other publications, spoke about her new book deal, Panos Kakaviatos spoke about his idea for a book, and I spoke to new friend Augustin V. Que about the Commanderie de Bordeaux.

Denis and Florence Dubourdieu were there (Denis was featured as one of the most important people in the world of wine by Decanter), as were the Decanter team (John Abbot, Guy Woodward, and Christelle Guibert who turns out to be a fellow Master of Wine student. I also chatted a bit with Reva Singh, editor and publisher of Sommelier India.

It was fun to see fellow Manhattanites Joshua Greene from Wine and Spirits magazine and Dana Nigro from Wine Spectator, along with Nicole and Eloise Heeter-Tari from Chateau Nairac, where I stayed during this year's En Primeur. I also was hosted at Chateau Beycheville during En Primeur, and GM and winemaker Philippe Blanc, my host, caught up and said hello as we walked into dinner.

Since 1983 the Conseil des Grand Crus Classés of 1855 (Médoc & Sauternes) have hosted a dinner honoring the International Press to open the world’s premier wine and spirits exhibition, Vinexpo Bordeaux. The event, always held at a first-growth château, was at Chateau Lafite in 2009. That was a very exciting event, with dinner in the wine cellar and much drama as they brought out the old vintages. I seem to recall bagpipes ....

Well, this year around 220 journalists from 33 countries were welcomed by Château Haut-Brion’s Prince Robert of Luxembourg, and Philippe Castéja, President of the Conseil des Grand Crus Classés of 1855 (Médoc & Sauternes). Following a tasting of Médoc and Sauternes Grand Cru Classé wines from the 2005 and 2008 vintages there was a “9-star” dinner created by a trio of three-star chefs: Alain PASSARD (L’Arpège, Paris), Anne-Sophie PIC (Maison Pic, Valence), and Yannick ALLENO (Le Meurice, Paris). The food was accompanied by a selection of Grand Crus Classés with commentary on each vintage offered by the Best Sommeliers of the World.

Of the chefs, I had the pleasure of dining at Maison Pic in Valence when I went on the "discover Rhone" tour held every two years. It was one of the most fabulous meals of my life. And the lobster this evening (her contribution) was incredible.

Médoc Grands Crus Classés from the 2003 vintage accompanied an entrée of Field-dressed purple beets with semi-sweet vinaigrette, cocoa and acacia honey by Alain Passard.

Next, vintages 1996 to 1985 were tasted with the main dish, Gently roasted blue lobster in shellfish butter, with a lobster and red fruit consommé lightly flavored with green pepper by Anne-Sophie Pic. Then Haut-Brion 1975 in double magnum was presented with a Hearth-roasted rack of lamb, golden risotto-style spelt, and fricassee of chanterelles prepared by Yannick Alléno.

To finish on a sweet note the guests enjoyed a “nine-star” dessert course, with each chef matching their creation to the 1990 Château d’Yquem: a contemporary vacherin of raspberries and Blue Mountain coffee from Pic; a soft, lemon sponge cake soufflé by Alleno; and strawberries with olive oil and lime by Passard).

The evening was also the occasion to offer each guest the latest book from ABRAMS, “Grands Crus Classés—The Greatest Wines of Bordeaux—with recipes from TOP CHEFS of the WORLD”. Published in October 2010, this unique work brings together for the first time the world’s greatest chefs such as Ferran Adrian-El Bulli, Jean Georges, Noma, Joël Robuchon, Paul Bocuse, Eric Ripert, Nobu Matsushisa, Marc Haeberlin, Thomas Keller, André Chiang, Alex Atala, Hiroyuki Hiramatsu, Pierre Gagnaire, Chan Yan-Tak, and many others, as well as the three chefs who prepared the evening’s menu. 87 chefs representing 27 countries around the world have each created a recipe for the Grand Crus Classés of 1855, with commentary by seven of the Best Sommeliers of the World (Oliver Poussier, Markus del Monego, Andréas Larsson, Serge Dubs, Franck Thomas, Youichi Sato, Virginia Philip, and Eric Beaumard).

About the Conseil des Grands Crus Classes of 1855 (Medoc &Sauternes)

The Conseil des Grands Crus Classés of 1855 (Médoc & Sauternes) is the official organization dedicated to the advancement and presentation of wines listed in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. It manages all aspects of promotional, technical, economic, and legal questions relating to the 1855 Grands Crus Classés (Médoc & Sauternes), the administration of their affairs and the enhancement of their prestige. The 1855 Classification was established at the request of the French Emperor, Napoléon III, who wished for the finest products of the Empire to be presented at the Universal Exposition at Paris in 1855 (the first universal exposition organized in France).

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