Conversation with Michael Richmond of Bouchaine Vineyards, Carneros
By Marisa D'Vari | July 20th, 2011 | Category: Napa Valley, News, USA | No Comments »"Roasting a barrel is like roasting coffee," says colorfully-spoken winemaker and GM of Bouchaine Vineyards, Michael Richmond. We are talking about the influence of French oak on the 2008 Pinot Noir, and as is the case when wine geeks get together, the conversation turns to toast (not the kind you have at breakfast) and the importance of being on the same page with your cooperage.
We are actually at Daniel Boulud's DB Bistro on a sunny June day, and Michael is here to talk about the winery's excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Bouchaine is the oldest continuously operated winery in the Carneros district, with roots going back before Prohibition.
I taste three vintages of Chardonnay (09, 08, 07) and am struck by the Meursault character of the 07 - it is very Burgundian with melted butter on the nose, and incredible elegance. Michael explains that the wines have some percentage - often half - of malolactic fermentation, depending on the vintage. There is 30% new French oak here, yet it blends seamlessly with the wine.
The Pinot Noirs (08, 07) are fabulous and very different because of the vintage. The 07 is more delicate, and perhaps for this reason the enticing sweet French oak on the nose (just 30%) is easier to detect than the 08, which has more substantial fruit and the same oak program.
The surprise at the end of the tasting is the sweet wine, made by Chardonnay grapes in a year with botrytis. Yet Michael realized that he didn't need botrytis to make the wine -- just leaving grapes to hang longer in autumn was enough to create this delicious sweet wine, with very balanced sugar and alcohol and delightful honeyed flavors.
I will keep you up to date with Bouchaine as i am a fan of their wine, which is very elegant and old world in style
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