A lovely lunch today with Janet Myers, the Director of Winemaking and General Manager at Franciscan Estate. She was in New York to promote her exciting new white wine called Equilibrium, a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscat. It's a very interesting wine - highly aromatic with crisp acidity and a rounded, lifted, slightly off-dry flavor. Tasting it before realizing it was a blend, it had the character of a Sauvignon Blanc yet rounder. A very good aperitif or first course wine for restaurants.

Now the Cuvee Sauvage Chardonnay 2011 was really stunning, very Burgundian in character with that sweet melted butter character.

After the whites came two reds, one a Meritage called Magnificat 2009 .... it is a Bordeaux style wine for people who feel Cabernet Sauvignon on its own is too strong for them. I liked it a lot, very soft and refreshing. And we also tried the Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, a nicely structured wine that can improve even more with time.

I really enjoyed talking to Janet about her work at the winery and what the market is asking for -- the Equilibrium, for example, meets the needs of people who are asking for wine that is officially "dry" yet sweeter in style. And from the way she described the tasting room, I can't wait to visit -- apparently one can take classes in making one's own Bordeaux blend from the winery's grapes!

Standing in the distance as we talk and taste at a sunny picnic table is his energetic white haired mother and wife who wears a fashionable dress.

The still white wine (2012) is crisp and delicious - as refreshing as a spritz of lemon on a hot day. In Crisp 2012 still white. The first Conegliano-Valdobbiadene (CV) we try is a field blend. It is crisp and floral and delicate. The single vineyard (one hectare)has more depth of minerality and more atmopsheres of pressures (frizzante vs spumante).

We try the extra dry with 15 grams of residual sugar which is the most popular in his portfolio. Next is the col fondo, which is second fermentation on tthe bottle like cava or Champagne. We taste the same vintage only this time the. The difference is that in traditional method there is a disgorgement to remove the yeast. The yeast remains in the bottle during the Col Fondo method.  We try the 2007 which has the aroma and flavors of bruised apples like mauzac in France.

And the gossip? Well, there is discussion if second fermentation in the bottle (col fondo) should be a new category. We also speak about his thoughts on competition from the Prosecco DOC, Cava, and Trentino Doc, but he feels there is no competition because each of the products are unique. He feels his DOCG wine is completely different and his terroir very different. At this moment he takes out a map to e0plain. "This is the beauty of how it is different."

“All this Prosecco DOCG, so little time!”

As journalists from various points of the world sauntered into the elegant Hotel Le Betulle in the Congegliano Valdobbiadene region of NorthEast Italy, all eyes were upon the gorgeously laid out bottles of Prosecco in various iced buckets, the foiled necks of the bottles a surprising rainbow of colors.

Many might think that Prosecco suddenly sprang into the world’s market to compete against Cava, Champagne, or California’s sparkling wine, yet Prosecco DOCG has actually been made in this region for hundreds of years from the glera grape.

Unlike Champagne, Cava, or California sparklers for that matter, It is made in the “Charmat” method which means that the secondary fermentation (the one that gives it the bubbles) is made in a stainless steel tank instead of a bottle.

This is actually a choice for its style, which is meant to reflect the fresh, fruity, floral nature of the glera grape (by DOCG law, glera must compose 85% of the blend).

Here at Hotel Betulle, the party starts as soon as the first cork is pulled. The first bottle is from the Conegliano region, and it has a very smooth, gentle, “pillow puff” of a mousse. When the second bottle, which comes from Valdobbiadene is popped and poured, it seems more mineral and defined.

In speaking to representatives of the region, it is discovered that both these regions are characterized by completely different terroir and climate conditions.

The following day, at a lecture given by a delightful and very personable speaker named Aurura and an enologist, we learn more about the region.

Prosecco DOCG consists of 15 communes, with the territory full of different microclimates and soil and wind as well as exposure to sun. The special conditions of this region and the superior grapes it produces are the key to the differences between the higher quality DOCG Prosecco and the more mass produced DOC Prosecco.

Valdobbiadene has ancient soils of sandstone, quartz, and clay and was once the Mediterranean sea floor. Wines from this area have great finesse with floral perfumes such as wisteria.  Vines are East facing for maximum exposure to sun, and the average rainfall is 1250 mm a year.

Beyond the 85% minimum of glera demanded by the DOCG, producers are allowed to use 15% of other approved local varieties such as Verdiso, Bianchetta, Perera, and Glera Lunga.  Some international varieties such as Pinot Nero (without skin) and Chardonnay are allowed.

Types of Prosecco DOCG

Most people assume there is one “type” of Prosecco. Yet the degree of residual sugar can vary wildly.

If you like the dry style, tell the waiter you’d like “Brut” which has up to 12 grams of sugar. This is a dry style and can pair very well with cuisine – you can enjoy it with many different types of food.

For an aperitif, you might prefer to ask the waiter for “extra dry” which has between 12 – 17 grams of residual sugar.

Yes, I know, it sounds strange to ask for “extra dry” or a sweeter taste, yet that is sparkling-wine speak around the world.

And even more confusing, if you prefer an even sweeter wine, ask for “dry” and you will receive a wine that can have between 17 and 35 grams of residual sugar.

If you buy Prosecco DOCG in the store, enjoy it at your earliest opportunity as it is best the year following the harvest.

After Aurura’s talk, we taste various examples of the “base wine” which is made before the secondary fermentation, each from a different region.  Some are floral, some have notes of apple or tropical fruit such as bananas or pineapples.

After the base wines, we try their sparkling counterpart, and note how some of the flavors have changed after fermentation.

That afternoon, we are taken to see some of the remarkable sandstone and clay soils – quite dramatic really – and then to the incredible Cartizze region, famous for its steeply sloped vineyards.

I was told about Cartizze by some Italian wine specialists before my trip, yet nothing could quite compare to its magnificence!

Alan Richman at Duboeuf Event

“Oh, I see you have been studying,” says the gentlemen seated next to me. We are sitting in the private downstairs dinning room of the new Lafayette restaurant downtown here in NYC, where journalists have gathered to hear Mr. Duboeuf speak about the 2012 vintage which is now hitting the market.

The gentlemen is referring to this “cheat cheat” I created earlier in the week, which describes all the aromas and flavors one can expect from each of the Cru wines. In the Masters of Wine educational program, when confronted with a 12-wine blind tasting, if you suspect a wine is the gamay grape, it is not enough to say it. You must describe the flavors and deduce which area it is from, as well as the year.

According to Mr. Duboeuf, the 2012 vintage is a follow up to the outstanding 2011 and has a strong character. I would agree with this assessment – I tasted through all the Cru wines and found them well balanced and true to character.

Curiously, in discussion with the executives of the company it turns out Morgon is the most popular in America. As an individual, I liked the softer, more floral styles, such as the Fleurie, and also the Julienas which is more structured.

The event was well organized – a walk around tasting and a pretty fabulous lunch with pairings of the various wines. Looking forward to enjoying them this summer!

"You're French is quite good!" exclaims the very attractive and very polite Anne-Laure Helfrich, project manager for her family's Les Grands Chais de France. Anne-Laure and oenologue/brand manager Nicolas Haeffelin were in Manhattan to showcase their Grand Cru wines, which astonishingly perfectly made.

I suppose one can argue that when you own Grand Cru terroir, the wine makes itself. Still, there is tremendous vintage variation in the area, and with pickers not allowed to work on Sunday (yes, it is an official law) one has to be incredibly careful in the vineyard and winery.

Though I usually find winemakers and winery owners quite pleasant and interesting people, Anne-Laure was really refreshing and fun to talk to. It's not so often that one can speak with the scion of a small quality winemaking family about her experiences growing up, working the harvest, and what life in general is like in a small Alsace town. Six generations have lived in the region.

Anne-Laure's English is excellent (she was very kind to compliment me on my very elementary French) as she has taken internships at many US cities and pursued advanced training in International management.

All the wines were fabulous, and I found the Grand Cru Gewurztraminer particularly outstanding! They are beginning to export to America, so when you see the Haeffelin label, grab it!

The tasting began with Cremant d'Alsace, made from 100% Pinot Blanc. It is made in the traditional method, and aged on the fine lees for three months before being bottled for its second alcoholic fermentation and aged on the lees for 24 months to give it an incredible richness.

The 2012 Helfrich Pinot Blanc is 100% Pinot Blanc, very delicate with aromas of concentrated fruit - very fresh and lively.

Now I really appreciated the crisp, refreshing, aromatic 2012 Helfrich Riesling, with a nose of mandarin orange and a sense of minerality - sharp-edged and vibrant.

The 2012 Helfrich Pinot Gris is 100% Pinot Gris, with a slight smokey flavor in addition to flavors of quince and apricot.

The 2011 Helfrich Pinot Gris Grand Cru was also made from 100%, with the vineyard facing south and at an altitude between 600 and 1000 feet. The soil is loam covering a hard calcareous bedrock. It is dry farmed (the law in Alsace) - Very round with well balanced acidity.

The 2009 Helfrich Gewurztraminer Grand Cru really knocked me out .  It was rich and opulant, with a lush, honeyed, fragrant character that would go so well with roasted scallops. The residual sugar was 24.4 grams per litre.

"Wait, that's my bottle!"

The lively young group at the next table looked at the waiter opening our bottle of Hahn Pinot Noir in amazement.

It turns out that they brought the exact same wine for a BYOB dinner at New York's best restaurant!

In time, they relaxed when their own bottle was brought to them, but what are the chances of that happening anywhere?

Hahn's Family Wines Pinot Noir 2011

In any event, the 2011 Hahn Winery PN was really well balanced with concentrated fruit (think cherries) and smooth, ripe tannins. High recommended and reasonable in price.

Director's Cut Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Yes, this is a wine made by an actual director - Francis Ford Coppola. It is an Alexander Valley appellation wine, produced in a "New World" style in stainless steel. Very crisp and refreshing, and again quite reasonable in price. Great for summer!

Our home base was Chateau Pey La Tour, which is owned by Dourth.  So on Thursday May 9th, we gathered together at the CIVB in Bordeaux, which is near the tourist office to hear Wendy Narby speak about new developments in Bordeaux.

Then lunch at Le Café Lunaire near the river. It was a cool and rainy day but great to see old friends. We left the restaurant for Chateau Pey La Tour in Salleboeuf, which is owned by Dourth. It was too wet for a vineyard visit, yet Marie-Helene Inquimbert gave an excellent history of the region, the company, and a tutored tasting of their many properties which all have different soils and aspects.

Dinner that night was at Chateau Pey La Tour, which started out with Champagne Thienot Brut, and continued on with Chateau La Garde 2011 from Pessac-Leognan (with asparagus), Chateau Le Boscqu 2005 with the Pork, Chateau Belgrave 2002 with the fromage, and Chateau de Ricaud 2009 from Loupiac with the desert.

Chateau Cheval-Blanc

The next morning we had a visit and tasting at  Château Cheval-Blanc led by Stephanie Duhar, who is involved with public relations. We learned a great deal about why the new chai and why it was built. It is gorgeous and actually designed for the well-being of the worker, with the thought presumably being that the happier the worker the better the wine - that is why in the Jura musicians often sing to the Compte cheese. We tasted the 2000 Vintage of the Cheval Blanc as well as the 2006, and the 2006 vintage of Le Petite Chateau. An incredible experience - I found the 2006 Cheval Blanc rich and full bodied and though one can drink it now, wait for another ten years. I tasted the 2012 of both during En Primeur.

At noon, we had a visit at Chateau de Sours where owner Martin Krajewski gave us a tour of the property, which he rebuilt. After seeing what he proclaimed to be the "largest press" in Bordeaux I mistakenly was not expecting top quality wine. Yet the sparkling and still rose was fabulous!

And lunch paired with the wines was very nice.

The Gala dinner that night was at Parveil de Luze, Margaux hosted by Alliance des Crus Bourgeois. It started with a formal reception and speech by Baron de Luze, with Pol Roger champagne, and then progressed to a tasting of wines from the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois.

The message Bordeaux is trying to get out is that these are quality wines, ready to drink now, that are quite affordable. The wines had different characteristics yet very balanced with concentrated fruit.

I was lucky enough to be seated next to charming Baron Frederic de Luze of Chateau Paveil de Luze in Margaux, the host of the evening, and brilliant Richard Bampfield MW who arranged many of the visits to the Bordeaux properties.

Marisa D'Vari & Richard Bampfield

Early Saturday, our group visited and tasted at  Ch Haut-Bailly in Pessac Leognan - I had to leave early for my plane back to NYC, yet here is a story I wrote a few weeks ago during En Primeur and more about the winery.  Fabulous trip!

Recently back from a trip to Alto Adige, Master Sommelier Geoff Kruth. lead a tasting and seminar of the wines of Italy's most northern region.

It was an interesting seminar ... the focus was on the multitude of varieties grown and unique microclimates within the region.

I was in Trentino a few months back ... the focus was on the sparkling wines of the region. Today it was on the dry whites and the reds.

Geoff Kruth who is a key person at the Guild of Sommeliers was an energetic and engaging speaker. We learned a lot about the history of the region, which requires a great deal of study. For example, my trip to Trentino was four days and in that time we barely scratched the surface of what the region had to offer. What I did see was the dramatic topography, with vineyards 600 - to 3300 meters, and a tapestry of different soils. And during this time, we only tried the wide variety of sparkling wines from the traditional method!

Today we explored only the Alto Adige region, with its surprising majority of red wine (Schiava) and the usual suspects of white (Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco).  We also tasted an interesting Sauvignon Blanc and a delicious dry Gewurtztraminer, along with some tanin-rich examples of Lagrein.

At the end of the seminar and tasting we will have a brief written competition where you can show off your knowledge of the area's wines and your food and wine pairing skills! One winner from each of the five seminars will accompany us on a trip to Alto Adige this September!

Of course the vintage older wines were incredible, really a once in a lifetime chance to try them and compare them to the youthful 2011.

The Symington family acquired these brands over the years, yet early on wanted to keep the individual styles.

Each brand has different vineyards with different aspects and also different blends of grapes that create the unique characteristics.

As we tasted through the wines, I took the extra step of contrasting the 2011 vintage with its aged branded counterpart, seeing how a period of 30 - 50 years has changed the wines.

As you may expect, the wines maintained their initial 'personalities' as a young child may have the same core personality from infancy to advanced years.

Very generous of the Symington to come, bring their best vintage wines, and explain why 2011 is a vintage in itself.

 

Queulat Sauvignon Blanc and Queulat Pinot Noir from Ventisquero

So last night at my favorite BYOB restaurant I brought these fabulous wines from Chile! I am on a Chile kick right now ... last week I attended a great tutored tasting of Chilean wines and am so excited about the quality and all the different terroir!

When I lived in Los Angeles, I "thought" I spoke Spanish (my teacher at the Institute Cervantes here in NYC thinks otherwise) but I really have to study and learn it all again, because this is really going to be the up and coming area.

So last night's wine were single estate wines - I could tell even blind tasting them from the rich concentration of fruit.

Queulat Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2012

This is from the Leyda valley, where you will find cool nights from the proximity to the ocean. Rich tasting from six months on the lees and very elegant.

Queulat Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010

This Pinot Noir is from the Casablanca Valley. It was absolutely stunning! I had it with salmon and thought it was really delicious with restrained fruit in the old world style.  Aged in 80% neutral French oak barrels for 12 months.