How fabulous to have Anne Parent as a speaker in today's presentation for NYC journalists and trade about the terroir of Burgundy.

The audience consisted of the city's most vibrant journalists and trade representatives -- and even though most of us were familiar with Burgundy and its terroir -- it was so valuable to taste eight prime examples of the different terroir (four reds, four whites) and take part in a tutored tasting.

After this two hour seminar, guests joined others in a large scale tasting of several producers, including Anne Parent and Jeanne-Marie De Champs (above) of Domaines et Saveurs  who represents several producers, many of whom were also featured on a special "showcase table."

I had tasted several of her producers which you can find with this link ...

"This is absolutely fantastic!" a guest exclaims, entering the ground floor reception area of the famous Clos de Vougeot and seeing handsomely uniformed waiters pouring tastes of the region's finest red and white wines.

Everyone here is thrilled to be invited to the Union des Maisons de Vins de Bourgogne event which features the world's finest wines.

The clever thing is that ALL the wines are tasted blind. We are given books with their numbers, the dates, and the general region yet we do no know the producer. However, a gentlemen whispered a secret -- all the producers are listed, along with their numbers, in an end-flap of the tasting book.

This allowed me to sample the 45 wines individually, make a tasting note, and then check on the producer. What was interesting about this exercise is that some of the lesser known producers I have tasted during the week got high marks, and while most of the famous names did also get high marks, there were a few surprises.

... and of course you may be very envious to know the wines with dinner ... Maison Bouchard Carton "Le Corton" 2005, Mazis Chambertin 2002 from Maison Jean-Claude Boisset, and 1982 Batard-Montrachet from Maison Louis Jadot.

The Grandes Maisons Grands Crus started in the 19th century when the Burgundian negociants were beginning to come together and form professional associations.

1836 was the year the first considerable professional association was formed to promote the interests of the negoticiants and freedom of the trade in Burgundy. It was called the Association Commerciale Vinicole de l'Arrondissement de Beaune.

The association took part in the London Exhibition in 1862 and the Paris Exhibition in both 1889 and 1900.

On its 150th anniversary in 2006 it changed its name to the Union des Maisons de Vins de Bourgogne.

The association has many goals -- among them protecting terroir, requirements of all producers over elevage (maturation), building international distribution networks, creating flexible marketing strategies, creating Bourgogne brand awareness, and more.

Dinner was held in a red and gold upstairs ballroom and it was fun to sit at tables filled with people from all over the world. We shared a few things in common, yet key among them was enjoyment of fine Burgundy wine.

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For example, Monday's event took place at the Maison des Vins de Chablis et du Grand Auxerrois with 108 exhibitors.

We enjoyed several Grand Cru wines - most from the 2010 vintage but some producers brought earlier vintages - and tasted the folowing:

Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Chitry, Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre, Bourgogne Côte Saint-Jacques, Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse, Bourgogne Epineuil, Bourgogne Tonnerre, Bourgogne Vézelay, Irancy, Saint-Bris and the four Chablis appellations

About Chablis

The chablis vineyard covers 5,000 hectares which makes it the biggest Burgundy appellation. It extands over 20 villages and hamlets along the Serein valley, on both sides of Chablis. The Chablis vineyard has 4 levels of appellation: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru.

About Grand Auxerrois

The Grand Auxerrois vineyard is a group of wines from the Auxerrois, the Tonnerrois, the Vézelien and the Jovinien. The majority of these Burgundy appellations is identified bu the name of the vineyard or the village of production (eg: Bourgogne Chitry, Bourgogne Vézelay...

The buffet is always a visual delight ... the French take food seriously and simplicity is not in their vocabulary. Instead of a platter of shrimp, or hard boiled eggs, alone, they put the two together in a savory aspic. It was fun to share tiny tables with new people -- distributors, importers, restauranteurs and share experiences.

Tuesday Cote de Nuits

The Côte de Nuits vineyard occupies a narrow strip of slopes which extends over 20 kilometres between Dijon and Corgoloin, and in places is only two or three hundred metres wide. This vineyard has 4 levels of appellation: Regional, Villages, Premiers and Grands Crus.

The tasting was fabulous and is quickly becoming one of my favorite regions.

Wednesday Maconnais

Mâconnais vineyard stretches over 6,700 hectares and produces primarily white wines. It is 35 kilometres in lengh, lying between Sennecey-le-Grand and Saint-Vérand, and 10 kilometres wide, bordered in the west by the valley of the Grosne and in the east by the valley of Saône. This vineyard has 2 levels of appellation: Regional and Villages.

Thursday Cote Chalonnaise

Natural extension of the Côte d'Or, the Côte Chalonnaise vineyard is 25 kilometres long and 7 kilometres wide, lying between the Côte de Beaune to the north and the hills of the Mâconnais to the south. This vineyard has 3 levels of appellation: Regional, Villages and Premiers Crus.

Friday Cote de Beaune

he Côte de Beaune vineyard covers only 20 kilometres, between Ladoix-Serrigny and the magnificent slope of the Maranges. The fame of the Côte de Beaune vineyard is closely related to its capital, Beaune, the true historical and economic centre of Burgundy wine production. This vineyard has 4 levels of appellation: Regional, Villages, Premiers and Grands Crus.

Fabulous two days of tasting at Diva Beaune, a small event in conjunction with the Grands Jours de Bourgogne where small producers as well as major names and brands poured wine.

I discovered many talented small producers here.

Didier et Jean Louis AMIOT
Domaine Robert AMPEAU et Fils
Domaine Marquis D'ANGERVILLE
Domaine ARLAUD Père et Fils
Domaine de l'ARLOT
Domaine ARNOUX LACHAUX
Domaine BALLOT-MILLOT et Fils
Domaine BART
Domaine BERTAGNA
Domaine Simon BIZE et Fils
Domaine BLAIN-GAGNARD
Domaine Lucien BOILLOT Père et Fils
Domaine Jean BOILLOT Père et Fils
Domaine BONNEAU du MARTRAY
Denis BOUSSEY
René BOUVIER
Maison CAPITAIN GAGNEROT
Domaine Louis CARILLON & Fils
Domaine CHANDON de BRIAILLES
Domaine CHANZY
Domaine du CHARDONNAY
Domaine ALAIN CHAVY
Domaine Robert CHEVILLON
Domaine CHEVILLON-CHEZEAUX
Domaine CHEVROT
Georges CHICOTOT
Domaine Bruno CLAIR
Domaine Christian CLERGET
Domaine COCHE-DURY***
Michel COLIN DELEGER et Fils
Domaine J-J CONFURON
Domaine CORDIER
Dominique CORNIN
Domaine DENIS Père et Fils
Domaine DROUHIN-LAROZE
David DUBAND
Domaine Yvan DUFOULEUR
Domaine DUJAC***
Sylvain DUSSORT
Domaine Sylvie ESMONIN
Domaine J.A. FERRET-LORTON
Domaine Jean FERY & Fils
Domaine FONTAINE-GAGNARD
Château de FUISSÉ
Domaine GACHOT MONOT
Domaine Philippe GAVIGNET
GEANTET- PANSIOT
Domaine Pierre GELIN
SARL Benoît GERMAIN
Domaine Jacques GIRARDIN

... so this is a quick post as I am SLOWLY talking about the fabulous producers I met at the Vertical Tasting in association with La Paulee in San Francisco organized by Daniel Johnnes. It was a super expensive and exclusive event, yet I felt like I had to experience it ...

... and even though it was in SF and not NYC, I saw so many NYC sommeliers there, mostly working the tables in anticipation of the $4,000 + La Paulee dinner.

I was fortunate to be the guest journalist at the original La Paulee (more about that later) a few months ago in Burgundy, sitting with all the city officials. It was fun, even up until the end when someone poured a bottle of red wine on my head (and I had to fly to S. Africa looking like that!)

In any event, today I'll write about Jean-Marc Roulot, who had three vintages of his "Les Luchets" vineyard to taste, 08, 07, and 05. I liked the 05 the best, it was very Meursault-like, rich and fabulous, and the 08 more than the 07.

I was not able to compare Les Luchets to the other vineyard sites, yet understand there are many differences. Jean-Marc practices organic farming; in the cellar he uses 15% new oak, mainly from the Allier forest, which integrates seamlessly into the wines’ silken, perfectly harmonious structures.

Like many of the producers I spoke with, he dislikes stirring the lees to obtain richness. More soon.

"I like a good farmer!" says Jeanne-Marie De Champs, owner of Domaines et Saveurs Collection in Burgundy. Jeanne-Marie represents over seventy producers and exports them to various countries, including the USA and my favorite wine stores.

Jeanne-Marie is responding to my question about how she chooses the producers she represents. Each one I've met over the years has been passionate about their craft.

"Every time I like a bottle of Burgundy, I turn the label around and see your name!" I have told her. But then again, bottles I buy at home are usually Bourgogne AOC and today we are visiting some of her very best producers with bottles selling for well over $100.

You can see all the producer visits here, but today we are visiting Clos de la Perriere, Domaine Gallois, Domaine LaMarche, Domane Meo Camuzet (the picture above is a barrel of wine that Jeanne-Marie bought at the Hospieces de Beaune, which is being raised by Meo Camuzet) and Chateau de la Maltroye.

Jeanne-Marie is very strict about the producers she accepts into her fold -- they must make wine as natural as possible. And all the producers I've visited with her have been absolutely passionate about making the best wine possible. Without exaggeration, the feeling one gets when they talk about their wine and offer tastes of it is as if the wine is their children. Every day, the winemakers are in the cellar, tasting it, listening to its needs ...

On this visit I discovered some fabulous producers and it is always thrilling to find oneself in a restaurant or a wine store, recognize the label on the wine bottle, and have fond memories of the visit..

Winemaker and Chateau de la Maltroye owner Jean-Pierre Cournet has the exotic look of a jet-set film star as opens the door and greets us in his gorgeous 18th century Chateau in Chassagne-Montrachet.  It is high on a hill, with a gorgeous view of the village and darkening sky. And there's something a bit mysterious about it ...

"Hello," I say, as we shake hands. "I love your wines. I have had them at Jean-George ..." I begin, naming an expensive restaurant in New York.

"Today you will have them much cheaper," he replies, with a wry smile.

The house is incredible -- a lot of space, airy . We are lead to the spotless, yet ancient looking cellars one can't help but think it is a movie set.  This feeling is intensified by the large figure of a knight in silver armor standing guard near the barrels.

When the Cournut family purchased the estate in 1940, the 6.5 acre plot behind the house was a vegetable garden. The wine business simply wasn't profitable enough to warrant new plantings. Today, vines that run 200 meters down the hill behind the Chateau make up the priceless Maltroye 1er Cru holding, offering wines that sell for more than $70-$100/bottle. 

The domaine covers around 15 hectares; of which 40% of the vines are red Pinot Noir and the rest mostly Chardonnay. Each year there is enough for two barrels only of Batard Montrachet Grand Cru while there are 10 different Premier Crus whites; including La Dent de Chien, La Romanee, Grand Ruchottes, Maltroie Cretes, Clos de la Maltroye (red and white), Macharelle, Chevenottes and Baudine.

I try the various wines -- they are young but incredibly delicious, rich with what appears to be 100% oak. And they would indeed cost a fortune at Jean-George, yet at that restaurant I would have the luxury of really savoring them.

You won't find much on the Internet about Chateau de la Maltroye -- and Mr. Cournet does not appear to be the talkative type -- yet from what I can gather when he took over from his father in 1995 the quality of the wines improved dramatically. It could be better selection, new technology, or just his own personal approach to creating a rich, well-balanced wine yet whatever it is, the wines are fabulous.

Domaine Meo Camuzet is a gorgeous, very modern looking winery in Vosne-Romanee. For many years I have been very excited to visit, because I know that Jeanne-Marie De Champs, owner of Domaines Et Saveurs Collection who  represents many top Burgundy wineries for export, trusts Meo Camuzet exclusively to elevate the wines she buys at the Hospieces de Beaune auction each year and the wines she presents that have been raised by Meo Camuzet are always fantastic.

Jeanne-Marie's Hospice Wine being 'elevated' at Meo Camuzedt

As we enter the bright winery with its glass-enclosed walls we are met by Pierre, an assistant winemaker, who leads us down to the cellar and invites us to taste an assortment of wines.

Domaine Méo-Camuzet was founded at the beginning of the last century when Mr Étienne Camuzet, a member of the French Parliament for the Côte d'Or from 1902 to 1932, began to select vineyards whose location and reputation were of particular interest to him. The vineyards he acquired were among the best locations in the  appellations.

According to the winery, the objective is to make wines with structure and delicacy - with concentration as well as charm. The balance of a wine is essential: refinement and complexity are the hallmarks of great wines and represent the desired goals throughout the wine making and ageing processes. 

Harvesting is done by hand -- it is done this way at most Burgundian vineyards -- yet what is different here is that a large part of the selection is performed not just on table,s but during the harvest by Jean-Nicolas Méo, with a team of 4 to 5 skilled workers instead of hired pickers. Twenty percent of the fruit is dropped on the ground instead of being brought into the winery to be sorted there.

Special boxes are used to keep the grapes from getting crushed -- as they are often done elsewhere -- yet  it is clear that Domain Meo Camuzet is truly a stickler for taking every possible cautionary step to produce healthy, ripe grapes in their natural state and also treat them very gently and naturally during the vinification process.

Of course, the real proof was in the wines ... and as Pierre opened a sampling of various vintages and regions and quality levels from cru to village, it is clear that the wines shared a clean, balanced appeal.

When buyers are successful in bidding on a wine during the Hospieces de Beaune auction, the next step (after writing the check) is to find a winery to take the wine and "elevate" it which means putting it in barrel and gently guiding its progression into a fine wine.

After the visit I can see why Jeanne-Marie chose Méo-Camuzet!

“Welcome!” says Nicole Lamarche, a petite, dark haired young woman with a quick, confident manner that silently supports the fact she is a brilliant winemaker. Since 1997 she has taken responsibility for the family’s prestigious line-up of Grands Echezeaux, Echezeaux and Clos Vougeot, and the best of the Vosne 1er Crus (Malconsorts, Suchots Croix Rameau) from her winemaker father whom she joined after oenology school in 2003.

By 2007. Nicole was making wines on her own – and making changes in the winery as well, beginning with going organic in the vineyard and changing coopers, raising the percentage of new oak for most wines, and adapting vinification techniques like cold soaking, and the length and temperature of fermentation and maceration to suit each individual vineyard with careful attention to the vintage.

By all accounts quality has improved dramatically since her ascension … and I am eager to try these legendary wines in the cellar which she pulls directly from the stainless steel vats.

Very quickly, we go from stainless steel vat to vat tasting the current vintage of everything from village wines to grand cru. Though quite young, each wine has its own specific character, and each is quite balanced despite its youth.

As we taste, I can’t help thinking about the dramatic history of the Domaine (you can read about it here, but isn’t the history of every domaine dramatic) and think how lucky it is all working out that Nicole, with her modern ideas and thoughtful attention to each plot and specific needs of each vintage, is at the helm here.
 

“Welcome,” says the affable Dominique Gallois, owner and winemaker at Domaine Gallois, as his friendly dog wags a greeting. We have just driven through the charming, historic village of Gevrey-Chambertin to arrive at Mr. Gallois’s home and cellar, where a child’s bicycle is parked near the front door and two enthusiastic-looking music and video producers eagerly taste wine atop a barrel in the charming tasting room, minutes later exiting with several cases.

Gevrey-Chambertin wines are exclusively red, and made predominantly from Pinot Noir grapes. Widely regarded as being the most full-bodied and masculine of the region, the village's wines have an intensity of color and rich, deep flavors which many label as “masculine” while the wines of the nearby Chambolle-Musigny are called “feminine.” The distinguishing feature of these wines is their intensity, longevity and a distinctive gamey note not found in the wine of any other commune. Though the parish was originally called Gevrey, in 1847 the parish council added the name of their most prestigious vineyard Le Chambertin, to that of the village

I am here in Burgundy spending the day with Jeanne-Marie De Champs, owner of Domaines et Saveurs Collection, visiting a handful of her many producers who she has hand selected because of their natural approach to winemaking. Mr. Gallois’s great-grandfather built the family's wine cellar and home in 1901 among the family's vines in Gevrey. Today, this 12 acre estate has holdings in Bourgogne, village Gevrey, premier cru Gevrey and grand cru Charmes-Chambertin.

As I tentatively embark down the very steep steps of the very deep cellar, I am reminded that Gallois is known to have one of the coldest, oldest cellars in the region. This is important for long, slow fermentations and great aging potential.

First, let me describe the cellar. It is somewhat horizontal in shape, and very, very clean despite its age. The barrels look exceptionally well organized, almost like eager young students sitting with rapt attention in a classroom. Immediately one gets the impression that Mr. Gallois is a strict but benevolent master who goes to a great deal of effort to ensure his young “students” (the wines) have the best possible care and nutrition, but in return he expects a great deal out of them.

We start to taste, with Mr. Gallois opening bottles of the 09 Gevrey-Chambertin village wines. The style is bold and delicious and very well balanced with black fruit and black licorice on the nose and palate, This village wine has a cold soak for five days to give it color, and ten percent of new oak.

The Gevrey-Chambertin 09 1st cru uses 40% of new French oak and has that delicious toasted oak flavor on the nose, with that black fruit and licorice profile along with raspberry. The Gevrey-Chambertin 07 is an absolutely gorgeous wine with incredible balance, elegance, finesse, and deep concentration of fruit … a dark, deep, and delicious wine that is every collector’s fantasy.

At this point, we leave the tasting table and with his “wine thief” – a long pipette style glass for drawing wine from barrel – he leads us around the cellar, withdrawing precious drops of this year’s maturing Premier cru wine from his holdings in exclusive vineyards such as Les Petits Cazetier where he owns a .2 hectare parcel planted in 1954. The wine, still in barrel, is incredible with gorgeous raspberry fruit intermingling with French vanilla.

We also taste the delicious, fresh, creamy Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru made from a plot originally planted in 1910 by Dominique Gallois' great-grandfather but since replanted. The wine is complex though still quite young, with a very rich and delicious palate of ripe, earthy red fruit. Aging in oak lasts between 14-18 months in thecellar
Back at the tasting table, we finish with the Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2008, lip-smackingly delicious with the aroma and palate of ripe sweet fruit … think of tiny framboise on Valentine’s day, with sweet vanilla from French oak barrels.

The good times with Domaine Gallois wines continues at Chez Guy, as Jeanne-Marie and I enjoy a well-deserved lunch!

Gallois

For more information, contact:

FIELD WELSH
9, rue du Marechal de Lattre de TASSIGNY
21220 Gevrey - Chambertin
FRANCE

TEL: +33 (0) 3.80.34.11.99.
FAX: +33 (0) 3.80.34.38.62

EMAIL: contact@domaine-gallois.com