In October we visited the Languedoc -- our “base” was Agde, a town with 2,600 years worth of history where the River Hérault and the Canal du Midi meet the Mediterranean. From the 5th century BC, the Phocaeans developed this town into a trading station between Marseille and Spain, which expanded in the fullness of time.

Our first event official event was a lunch hosted by the Syndicat Minevois, were we were welcomed by the elegant Christine Molines of the CIVL and Stephane Roux of the Minevois. Christine and Stephane chose a rose and red wine from Minevois for our al fresco lunch, calling attention to its balance, elegance, and the fact it can be purchased in the UK for under eight euros. Afterwards, we walked a short distance along the canal to a room where Christine, Stephane, and Stephanie Egenolf of Sud de France gave presentations about Minevois and the Languedoc in general. Perhaps the most impressive takeaway points from the presentation was the continuing improvement of wine from the region, and its quality for price – especially in terms of competing countries.

The evening was filled with a presentation in the tasting room of the Gerard Bertrand winery, where energetic young winemaker Jean-Baptiste led a tutored tasting of the company’s many wines. Gérard Bertrand owns five estates in the best wine regions of the Languedoc. With the purchase of a fourth estate, Château l’Hospitalet in 2002, the Company took on a new dimension. becoming the Group’s head office and a place dedicated to Mediterranean lifestyle and wine-growing culture. Afterward, we had a group dinner in the elegant restaurant of the Bertrand winery.
Wednesday saw us set out early for a tasting of wines from the AOP Languedoc, where energetic Jean-Philippe Granier, head of communications, introduced us to several winemakers who each presented three styles of wine from their region. Lunch followed with the winemakers and their wines.

After lunch, we met an amazing woman, Diane Losfelt, whose family bought the Chateau de L'Engarran estate in 1923. Diane is the fifth generation and the winemaker, and was incredibly passionate about the estate, its tremendous history, and the wines. Her assistant Emily gave us a tour of the pleasure gardens before Diane took us into the winery and then the tasting room where we tried the various wines, most offered at a very reasonable price point (under ten euros) and of excellent quality. The magic followed with a visit to Bergerie du Capucin, where we were greeted by owner/winemaker Guilhem Viau and shown his dramatic vineyard, which was filled with stones. Winemaker/owner Fabien Reboul from Chateau de Valflaunes in Pic Saint Loup showed us his field as well, with the rugged terroir varied at every turn and mountains literally jutting out of the slopping earth. Dinner followed at the Maison des Vins, where we enjoyed the various wines from winemakers in ther region.

Thursay took place in Limoux, where the Syndicat de Limoux gave us a very structured presentation on the wines of the region, careful to distinguish the Blanquette de Limoux from Crémant de Limoux and also the Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale, which started here in the year 1531. Lunch followed the presentation at a restaurant where we could taste more Blanquette de Limoux, along with some whites and reds.

Afterward, we arrived at Domaine Rives-Blanques for a visit and tasting. Owner Caryn Panman and her pampered dog Bruno (also a Decanter magazine star!) met us in the field and took us on a tour of the extraordinary vineyards. Rives-Blanques lies in a nature reserve designated by the European progamme Natura 2000, because of the unique habitat for flora and fauna provided by this meeting ground of Atlantic and Mediterranean influences. We toured the winery, and then tasted the many award winning sparklling and still wines.

The last visit of a very busy day was at the winery of affable Pierre Borie, owner of Chateau Les Ollieux in Montseret. Pierre is a lively, funny guy who makes fabulous wines, mostly various blends of syrah, grenache, mouvedre, and some carignan. We saw his winery, tasted wines from his tanks, and then gathered in the tasting room for a complete tasting of all the wines in his range. After the tasting, some of us went in search of the braying donkey before our departure for the restaurant Le Petite Comptoir, where Pierre shared more entertaining stories.

Friday began with a structured presentation and tasting of St Chinian and Faugeres, areas of quality red wines, and lunch in Pezenas at L’entre Pots. After a walk through Pezenas, we visited Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue. This gorgeous estate lies in the heart of Languedoc, between Beziers and Montpellier, facing the Mediterranean. The Renaissance Château Domaine is surrounded by alternating vineyards, scrubland, pine forests and olive groves and the wines were well balanced and again, of great quality for the price. Jean-Claude Zabalia took us around and led a fabulous tasting.

The final visit of the day was with the Syndicat de Pinet, where we learned all there was to know about Picpoul de Pinet and that the region was once famous for its gin factory. We tasted over a dozen impressive styles of this wine before enjoying yet more Picpoul at La Ferme Marine, a restaurant right by the sea featuring a shellfish buffet. Picpoul de Pinet is fabulous with seafood.

Overall, the trip was expertly organized and presented a rare opportunity to discover the various appelations in the region. Each and every producer we met was enthusiastic, positive, passionate, and very excited to present his or her wines. Producers were universally supportive of their colleagues in the region, and all showed genuine interest in working together to promote the region as a whole. And thankfully, the wines were representative of their specific regions, partially due to the very strict laws of each appellation. Voila!

Does the above picture effectively showcase the "dream" of Southern France? That blue sky, with the white puffs of clouds, is real. And from this fresh, sunny climate we also get the wines of Gerard Bertrand, who owns six estates in the Languedoc.

Today at a Per Se launch of his 2010 Gris Blanc Rosé in the U.S. market we had a chance to taste his entire portfolio, and also discover the fascinating personality of Gerard who is a seasoned vigneron (since age 10, more about that later) and also the extremely charming and polished face behind the brand.

At age 10, Gerard volunteered to help his vigneron father in the vineyeard, much to the chagrin of his mother who preferred that Gerard concentrate on his studies. Clearly, winemaking was in young Gerard's blood, for he took over the family's estates upon his father's passing in 1987, just 22 yet with a dozen years of solid winemaking experience behind him.

Today the family's six estates produces many brands of wines at various price points, from affordable quality wines to single vineyard wines that represent an incredible value compared to Bordeaux or Hermitage.

Baronness Sheri

Just last night, at the James Beard Awards, Per Se was awarded "Best Service for North America" and it was a fitting venue for this special lunch paired with Bertrand wines.

Herb roased fillet of Atlantic Halibut was paired with three Bertrand wines: Viognier, Reserve Speciale 2010 Cigalus White, Pays D'Oc 2009, and Aigle Royal, Limoux, AOP 2009.

I liked all three of these wines: the Viognier was incredible, fresh and perfumed with peach/apricot, and very very light ... almost dainty. The Cigalus (mostly Chardonnay with some Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier) was light and refreshing, and the 100% Chardonnay Aigle Royal from Limoux was full bodied, rich, yet lifted. All three fabulous wines.

Rib-Eye of Snake-River Farms' Beef with King trumpet mushroom was a fabulous dish, paired with three wines. The top pick of the three was the Chateau L'Hospitalet Reserve Rouge, Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape 2009. Very well balanced, with touches of light oak and vanilla.

The cheese course, featuring Roncal with compressed fennel and apricot membrillo, was paired with three more reds, and all three were favorites: La Forge, Corbieres-Boutenac AOP 2008, Le Viala, Minevois La Liviniere 2007, and L'Hospitalaitas, Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape AOP 2008.  I liked all three of these wines -- yet I preferred the La Forge for three key reasons.

Now frankly, the first reason is that it is a blend of syrah and carignan from 100 year old vines and I absolutely love old vine carignan. This wine offers very well integrated flavors between the concentrated fruit, acid, tannin, and oak. And according to Gerard, the 2008 is the best example of this wine (reason #2). The third reason is that according to Gerard, it is a tribute to his father who loved this vineyard, and whom Gerard named in his owner.

I liked the La Clape also because of its incredible balance and finesse, this is a wine that could actually steal the show in a "Judgement of Paris" type of competiton.

Legend vintage Maury AOP 1929 was paired with the dessert, which was decadence itself in a trio of fab flavors such as a Tcho Chocolage Mousse, Whiskey Puree, and Almond Ice Cream. 1929 seems long ago to many of us, yet fellow Wine Media Guild member Hochstein had the distinction of being born in that year, and was "awarded" a bottle of this precious vintage by Gerard himself.

An absolutely fabulous launch for the Gerard Bertrand brand in the United States. Gerard is really passionate about bringing the culture, wine, and gastronomy of the Languedoc to the United States, and each of the wines tasted reflected the blend of affordable price points combined with the quality that happens to be the Bertrand hallmark.

This was such a fabulous restaurant in Collioure, France! It is about three hours from Nimes, and a very cute town. Many artists lived and painted here. Imagine Ibiza with the jetset and you will get a sense of the weather and the scenery.

This was one of my favorite restaurants for the scene, the service, and the gorgeous view.

The menu as I recall is three-course, and the wines a good representation of the area.

Restaurant in St Maximin

Couvent Royal
3 star hotel
Place Jean Salusse - 83470 St Maximin
Phone : +33 (0)4 94 86 55 66 - Fax : +33 (0)4 94 59 82 82

This is a fabulous restaurant, especially when the weather is great and one can sit outdoors. Arrived just when it opened and thought the menu quite good and creative. I will find the pictures and load them, here is a link to the web site.

Like most top restaurants in the region, this restaurant is in the middle of nowhere (the village is charming, yet it is a remote village and it is quite a drive). The village is charming, and tiny and in contrast to its ancient crumbling walls of historical structures are the vibrant teenagers who flirt with one another and skateboard near the abbye. 

It made me curious to as to whether teenagers were engaging in the same behavior under the same tree near the same wall three hundred years ago.

Now here it is described on the web site:  "In the shaded square of a quiet little village in the Haut-Var, this beautiful home adjacent to a 12th century abbey invites you to sample all the pleasures of a true gourmet experience. From the vegetable garden of the Hostellerie to the depths of the Mediterranean Sea, chef Benoît Witz passionately draws into the regions bounties. Sunny and original, the menu evolves with the seasons, displaying the depth and richness of his talent: Courgette flower and crispy bacon risotto, pressed duck and foie gras... "

I agree with all this, despite the flowery language. The settign is magical and I have to admit that now, six months later, I can't quite recall the food yet remember is was quite good, up to yet not exceeding expectations as all the cuisine in the region is so spectacular.

Hôtelier: Alain Ducasse
Manager: Sebastion Pilat
10, Place du Général de Gaulle
Celle en Provence, La, 83170 France

Tel. +33 (0)4 98 05 14 14
Fax. +33 (0)4 98 05 14 15
contact@abbaye-celle.com

Chef : Benoît Witz

Maitre D : Eric Adam

Sommelier : Cédric Vernice
 

Though Tokaji was the official end to the AXA most generous trip, we had the option of going on to other AXA properties around the world.

I love the Languedoc and was very eager to visit the AXA property Mas Belles Eaux.

So Monday morning, myself and another MW student were picked up at the hotel AXA so generously secured for us by the very handsome and charming technical manager, Cedric Loiseau.

The Languedoc, located in the south of France, borders the Mediterranean between the Pyrenees and the Rhone Valley. It has mild winters and hot, dry summers, and has been a wine growing region ever since Greek and Roman times.

The vineyard of Mas Belles Eaux stretches over 90 hectares of sun-blessed hillsides. Soil consists of the complex terroir of Villafranchian gravel over red clay and alluvial soils.

The Winery

The Mas and its vaulted cellar built in the 17th century are the oldest buildings of the estate, and is very romantic looking. A new winery has been constructed and we will see it later that afternoon. The estate was called Belles Eaux because of the numerous springs around the property which run down into the Peyne River and have a unique effect on the terroir.

In the parking lot of the Mas, we are surprised and pleased to see Daniel Llose, who lead the blending competition of Chateau Petite Village. He is here to help explain the magic of this gorgeous terroir.

We gather together in a single car to tour the vineyards. Daniel and Cedric show us a map, indicating how the decision was made to re-organize the vineyard in terms of the different soils an in-depth survey has brought to light. Grapes planted include Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Carignan.

The Vineyards

mas grapes

We drive through the vineyard, getting out several times to see the trellis system, examine the soil, and taste the grapes. Harvest is finished yet some (delicious!) bunches remain.

What’s most interesting is that Cedric has an Apple application for his iphone that alerts him to soil conditions – the AXA technical directors must be among the most tech-savvy on the planet!

The premiere wine of Mas Belles Eaux is Sainte Hélène, which features carefully sorted and selected grapes that come from plots situated up on the plateau, the highest point of the estate. This wine, a blend of several grape varieties, is vinified according to a method specific to Mas Belles Eaux and then aged for 15 months in French oak barrels.

Visiting the New Winery

We visit the new winery and I, for one, am very impressed. It is very new and clean and shiny with extremely modern stainless steel fermentation tanks and numerous bells and whistles.

The Tasting

We taste the 2009 vintage and other vintages in the sleek, very modern tasting room on adjoining the Mas. It is run by Yann Aguilhon, a very energetic gentleman. The space is gorgeous and during summer, Yann has turned it into a venue for a weekly tasting party.

As a whole, the wines are very well-balanced with delicious flavors and moderate alcohol despite the hot climate. Cedric has taken obvious care to create such balance and elegance. The discussion turned to the challenge of informing the public that the Languedoc is a region where one must know the producer.

Mas Belles Eaux, for example, is a high quality wine available at a competitive price. Yet a consumer can find a badly made wine with high alcohol and from high yields from the same region, and make the assumption that all Languedoc wines taste a certain way. Public education is crucial, and that’s why the tasting room and its parties is such a good way to market the winery and establish the brand as one that stands for quality.

The Lunch

Cedric, Yann, and Daniel take us to a fantastic lunch at an incredible restaurant in the mountains called Auberge de Prespbyterre. It is run by a young Italian couple and the food is incredible. What a fabulous experience!
 

The Afternoon Visits

Cedric was kind enough to arrange visits to two other properties where we could see examples of how other producers run their cellars.

One winery we visited was Domaine de L'Arjolle, which is organic. Francois Teisserenc gave us a tasting and his father the tour.

The Dinner

If Cedric is charming, his wife Carin is equally so. My fellow MW student and I were honored to be invited to dinner with them at a very quaint restaurant in Sete, a region by the sea that is very popular in summer.

Saying Goodbye

Daniel could not join us for dinner, as he had to rush back to Bordeaux to taste at Chateau Pichon-Longueville the next day.

I was so honored that he drove all the way down to the Languedoc to be with myself and my fellow MW student, and have that incredible mountain lunch with his. His commentary during our visits to the Mas Belles Eaux properties and also the other wineries were quite valuable. He is an extremely modest man and its possible he does not recognize his value to the wine community and as a mentor – both young AXA winemakers as well as students such as myself!

Thank you AXA

Many many thanks to AXA and the Institute of the Masters of Wine for making this scholarship possible.

...so I am here in New York, on the jury panel to taste wines of the Cotes du Roussillon with regard to the Saint-Bacchus awards 2010, a competition originating in Roussillon that has been going on twenty-five years. This is one of my favorite regions in the world, and the La Maison de la Region Languedoc-Roussillon is very active showcasing wines of the region to the trade.

The wines have been chosen by the Master Tasters of Roussillon, an association that brings together winemakers, oenologists, sommeliers, and journalists like myself. The preliminary tasting took place April 10 2010 in Perpignan.

The Grand Jury is made up of several panels of judges, with each panel consisting of three to four tastings across several categories (dry white, fortified wines, red wines, etc). I was on the panel to choose red Cotes Du Roussillon. which is in the département called Pyrénées-Orientales, the eastern section of the Pyrenees.

marianne

Andrew Bell, who created the American Sommelier Association, had been named President of the Grand Jury. The room was filled with a who's who of famous faces from Manhattan's wine scene ... most sommeliers from top restaurants were there, lots of wine buyers, my friend Kevin the East Village Wine Geek wildly twittering photos ...

I spent several weeks in the region last summer - its huge, expansive, with endless blue skies and rolling hills. Fortified wines do well here because of the sunshine. The Rivesaltes region is known for its Muscat as early as the 14th century. Roussillon is the world's foremost producer of vins doux naturels.

Côtes du Roussillon reds must be made from at least three grape varieties with Syrah or Mourvèdre making up at least twenty percent, and Grenache (the most widely planted variety) or Carignan.

Whites are made up of Grenache Blanc, Maccabéo, and Marsanne, Roussanne, and Vermentino/Rolle, which together must make up at least 20 per cent of any white wine blend.

Muscat and Grenache are grown for vin doux naturel yet increasingly made into less alcoholic, dry vin de pays.

... Now I am sure you'll agree that there is something slightly decadent about savoring wine aboard the open top of a double deckered bus (painted like big yellow taxi with red baloons) at the start of a warm Manhattan summer. Yet well over a dozen journalists did just that on May 4th to celebrate the start of the Sude de France Festival.

The fun started earlier, with smiling PR girls and boys dressed in striped shirts and straw hats handing hats to guests at the Maison de la Région Languedoc-Roussillon and officials speaking about the summer festivities ahead which include free “open house” educational seminars and tastings of the region’s wines led by Sud de France spokesperson and wine expert Jamal Rayyis and other experts at the Maison de la Région Languedoc-Roussillon (10 East 53rd Street) on Tuesday, June 15 through Friday, June 18, from 6 to 9 PM each evening.

The first event will be a wine blending seminar, where guests will receive an expert-guided tasting and lesson in blending the characteristic grape varieties of the region with pipettes to create their own special cuvée of Languedoc-Roussillon wine. You will definetely see me  there -- I spent three weeks in the region last summer and would love to have the chance to play winemaker.

Once we boarded the bus, musicians played and people all up and down fifth avenue starred and waived. Our first destination was Cafe Noir, a chic French spot where the patrons, mainly couples enjoying a warm pre-summer night, appeared rather surprised at what appeared to be "tourists" flooding into "their" cafe. After a few minutes (we were escorted to a private room) diners relaxed and smiled, realizing they had the lucky experience of being participants in an "event" and enjoyed the music and dancing that ensued.

Next on the list was Casimir, another quaint wine bar, and Fada ... with yet more wine, music, and dancing.

Below you will find some more highlights offered from Sud de France. I LOVE the wine from this region, and if you are looking for a place to visit this summer, it is incredibly gorgeous. 

More from Sud de France festivities in NYC:

In July, highlights include a winemaker brunch on the 11th at the brand new location of Le Pain Quotidien at Central Park and West 70th street, as well as special events surrounding Bastille Day. For wine professionals, there will be a sommelier contest to choose this year’s Sud de France Festival sommelier of the year on July 12th.

Throughout New York, the 59 wine retailers are organizing in-store tastings and educational sessions on the wines of Sud de France. Participating restaurants include Les Halles, the Tour de France restaurant group including Café d’Alsace, French Roast, Marseille, L’Express, Pigalle, Le Monde, and Maison and The Forgeois Group’s Cercle Rouge, Bar Tabac and Le Singe Vert. Participating bars include 8th Street Wine Cellar and Flûte. An exciting addition to this year’s Sud de France Festival is Le Pain Quotidien, which will exclusively feature organic wines of Languedoc-Roussillon (two red, two white and a rosé and sparkling wine) alongside the wines of founder and Languedoc-Roussillon resident Alain Coumont. During the Festival, Le Pain Quotidien will showcase a special Sud de France menu including gourmet ingredients from the region.

Sun-drenched and ripened to perfection, the wines of Languedoc-Roussillon are amongst the most diverse with red, white, rosé, sparkling and sweet wines for every occasion at every price point. The Sud de France program has a goal of expanding New Yorkers’ knowledge of this region, including the fact that Languedoc-Roussillon produces more wine and the largest amount of organic wines of any other wine region in the world. Complete information on the Sud de France Festival, including promotions and participating venues, dates, locations for cooking and pairing demonstrations, and information on the wines and cuisine of Languedoc-Roussillon can be found on: www.festival-suddefrance.com/ny

ABOUT SUD DE FRANCE
The Sud de France Festival is an international campaign conducted by Sud de France Export, an agency which promotes the wines, culinary products, and industries of the French region of Languedoc-Roussillon in the world. The Festivals are conducted in Shanghai, London, Brazil, New York and Mexico. The Maison de la Région Languedoc-Roussillon is the Midtown Manhattan-based office of Sud de France Export, one of five in the world.

... so many of you know that I spent a few fantastic weeks in the Languedoc this summer, guest of a gorgeous Chateau with access to some of the best restaurants in the world. Of course, the thing about the Languedoc is that it is so large. Wineries were sometimes two hours apart!

Happily, no need to go that far on August 31 when in anticipation of the Festival Sud de France in October, we had a celebratory kick off at the surprising 'Water Taxi Beach" in Long Island City. Some of you might know I am from L.A. and with the swimsuit wearing vollyball players (no, not our group) it seemed so Manhattan Beach!

Chef Cédric Tovar of Peacock Alley was there to prepare specialties from the South of France, and much Languedoc wine was to be had. During the upcoming festival, you will be able to enjoy a city-wide "tasting" of wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon region at restaurants and wine bars.  Salute!
 

“After my visit to Miami, I think I am going to start producing wines in a Magnum,” jokes handsome French wine representative, Francois Pages of Chateau du Campuget. “Everywhere I went, people seemed so oversized and built-up, like superheroes!”

Yes, in Miami everything seems slightly larger than life. Yet here we are, at a French café in midtown Manhattan and the world seems smaller and much more intimate. And though it is spring – the traditional start of the rosé wine drinking season – the weather is freezing. Yet as Francois pours me a glass, I try to pretend I am at Club 55 in St. Tropez, watching celebrities like P. Diddy scamper in the cool blue waves.

“Quite nice,” I pronounce the wine, which is a gorgeous baby pink rose color, and is scented with raspberries and strawberries. One the palate, the wine is pleasantly assertive in a way that belies its pretty color and can pair with much more robust cuisine than a typical rosé with its rich berry flavors and charmingly bitter finish, somewhat akin to Campari liqueur or a fresh pomegranate seed. I am not surprised when Francois tells me this is his best selling wine.

If you are new to rosé, or if you have not had a glass in a while, this is an appropriate time to explain that in America, we have two basic types of rosé: dry and sweet. In Europe and other regions, rosé was traditionally only dry. So if you have had sweet pink wine and have yet to experience the pleasures of dry, Chateau du Campuget traditional rosé is a great place to start.

I also try Francoise’s traditional white – very good, but the white that stands out for me is the Viognier de Campuget. If you are a wine geek, you probably already know that the Viognier grape receives its finest expression in the northern Rhone, though it is also very popular in Austria. Both are relatively cool regions, unlike the hot Costieres de Nimes at the most southern area of the Rhone valley. When tasting wine blind, I have been fooled by a Viognier from a hot region because the fruit is so ripe. Imagine how a sun-warmed peach would taste and you have an idea of the ripe, rich, intoxicating flavors of this wine.

All things considered, I am a red wine drinker and really enjoyed the Traditional Rouge (made from the area’s key grapes, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Carménère). The Traditional red is pleasant and surprisingly unoaked – it is aged in stainless steel tanks. Yet it tastes so rich I ask Francois about it. In his typical French way (well, actually, virtually all French people wax philosophic like this in my experience) Francoise tells a colorful story about how a beautiful girl doesn’t need to really pack on the make-up to be attractive. In other words, when it comes to his wine, simplicity is best. No need to gild the lily. More complex than the Traditional are Prestige Rouge, which sees some oak aging, and the Chateau de Compugent “1753” which is intended to be cellar aged, both excellent.

Today “value” is the word on everyone’s lips. Starting at under $10, Chateau de Campuget’s wines are delicious, well crafted, and affordable. It may still be cold outside, yet when you sip this winery’s rosé, you will feel the warmth of a quaint French summer.