What a treat to visit 5 young winemakers on a recent trip to Germany, arranged by the Masters of Wine and Geisenheim university.

Germany is one country that gets very high marks for putting an emphasis not just on young "millennial" age consumers, but also in terms of encouraging young winemakers in their craft.

Having banded together for the last eleven years (making some wine together in the form of a cooperative and also as a marketing and promotional tool) this group calling itself the Sudpfalz Connection is very exciting and energized.

We arrived at Weingut Kranz where Boris Kranz and other Sudpfalz members (listed below) welcomed us and showed us into the tasting room, where each presented his or her wine.

As a group, the Spatburgunders were Burgundian in style, some very elegant with intense cherry fruit and just the right balance of oak. As a group and as individuals, the winemakers really appeared to strive for perfection and leaned toward the more classic elegant style of Pinot Noir.

After the tastings, the energetic five lead a tour into the vineyard, where we had a chance to taste very ripe Spatburgunder and Riesling grapes at their peak of flavor. As luck would have it, the sun was warm and enticing and the experience here helped us understand why this warm sunny area is so great for the production of Spatburgunder.

The members of the "Sudpfalz Connexion" are:
- Sven Leiner, Weingut Leiner
- Boris Kranz, Weingut Kranz
- Peter Siener, Weingut Siener
- Volker Giess, Weingut Giess-Düppel
- Klaus Scheu, Weinhof Scheu

You can find them at http://www.suedpfalz-connection.de or info@suedpfalz.de

Very excited to visit Schloss Schonborn again this week as a student in the Masters of Wine education program.

The first time I went was on a trip sponsored by the German Wine Institute and the European Union for its Destination Riesling program. I remember being very impressed by the Schloss and our host Peter Barth, technical director.

Today the event was sponsored by the VDP Baden, a region known for its sunnier skies, warmer growing season, and red wines. The Baden wines represented included whites, mostly Riesling, and Pinot Noir. As was the case last year, the open tasting format allowed students (as well as Masters of Wine) to get a sense of the red wines in the area. Wines varied considerably, especially the Pinot Noir, depending on the style of the producer. Overall, my sense was that these wines had more overt new oak and a richer, riper flavor than other old world reds.

More about Schloss Schonborn

In Germany, the word “schloss” means castle or “manor house.” These are historic structures, many first built during the Roman times near the very best vineyards in the land. The idea was to create a grand estate to showcase the quality of the vineyards and the wine.

With wineries in San Ynez, California considered old at twenty, a 650-year-old winery seems very ancient indeed. Yet this is the age of Schloss Schonborn in Germany’s Rheingau region, which goes back to 1349. Owned by Paul Graf von Schonborn-Wiesentheid, it is the largest family owned estate in the Rheingau comprising some 125 acres (50 hectares) of top vineyard sites. The winery has recently been modernized with stainless steel tanks. Many of the wines produced here make their way to Asia and North America so look for the brand on your wine store shelf.

What makes the Riesling of Schloss Schonborn special are the south facing vineyards which face the Rheingau river, reflecting the sun and warming the vines. The family had been active in the Catholic church for centuries, hence their ability to get the best vineyard sites.

Visit the ancient, dust- and spider web-covered cellars and you realize that some of the very old bottles inside have survived the Napoleonic wars, the Franco-Prussian War, WWI, and WWII. Many of the bottles date from 1735, and our host, Peter Barth, technical director, describes that they have held up well over the last three centuries.

the Rheingau valley, the Domänenweingut Schloss Schönborn has long stood for premium wine culture.

Many of the vineyards along the slopes bordering the Rhine river have been part of the Schönborn family estate since 1349, which has been added to continuously since then. Several top sites were acquired in the 17th and 18th centuries, giving the estate a real boost. The estate now covers 50 ha, of which 90% are planted with Riesling. The remaining vineyards feature Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. The Schloss Schönborn wine estate is one of the founder members of the Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates (VDP) and has for many years been managing its valuable vineyards in tune with nature.

Weingut Schloss Schönborn
Contact: Herr von den Benken
Hauptstr. 53, 65347 Hattenheim
Phone: +49 (0)6723-91810, Fax: +49 (0)6723-918191
schloss-schoenborn@schoenborn.de

During the trip we will be having dinner at this winery, an event called "‘Bistro Freundstück’

Bassermann-Jordan winery is a family dynasty which, together with others, established and greatly influenced quality-based viticulture in Germany for almost 300 years. As scientists, they worked on improving wine-growing methods and consider that they wrote the definitive book on the history of viticulture.

Very sure I will have the scoop on the winery after my visit!

Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan
Kirchgasse 10 ~ 67146 Deidesheim
Tel. +496326 -6006 ~ Fax +496326-6008
info@bassermann-jordan.de ~ www.bassermann-jordan.de

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We may tentatively visit Ludi Neiss ... and I will have more to say if we do.

For now, the story is that Axel Neib is the fifth generation winemaker and the vineyards have been converted to mostly classic varieties. The picture above tells a million stories and I can't wait to see it in person (though I hope it is not as cold!)

... so on the trip, our group will also be stopping at the winery of Weingut Markus Schneider.

According to the web site (a rather creative and loose Google translation) Schneider likes to make fresh, concentrated wine with more mineral than fruit and works on the principle ("less is more.)

Red wine - which is the focus of this trip - is mascerated for long hours and aged with oak. The soil includes loamy earth, clay, crushed stone, gravel, sand, loess, sandstone, limestone, and rock and has deep, diverse geological formations. Weather consists of warm days and cool nights, which is great for ripeness and high acidity.

Very excited to meet him and taste through his wines!
 

I am SO EXCITED to be visiting Philipp Kuhn in Pfalz this week!

It will be my first time to Pfalz,and Kuhn is one of the key producers of Pinot Noir, along with other international red varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Laurent, and "early Burgundy" -- I suppose I will find out what that means soon!

The winery has twenty hectares planted with Riesling and other international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, and Gewurztraminer.

Grapes are picked by hand, sometimes in several stages from October to November -- it looks like we will be just a bit early to see the harvest. From what I can understand of the German, stalks are discarded and red wines undergo traditional maceration over several weeks for 16 - 20 months.

White grapes are hand picked, and using gravity rather than a pump, pressed very gently.on a pneumatic press. The musts are gently flavored with fermentation temperatures under 20 ° C partly spontaneous, partly fermented with selected yeasts. Then the white wines are aged in stainless steel predominantly reductive or old wooden barrels.   

Here is some more info as I gather it ...

A link to Wine Rambler (he has Merlot tasting notes)

Here is a video (in German!)
 

Large Karl Str 20
67229 Laumersheim/Pfalz 67 229 Laumersheim / Pfalz
Tel: + 49 (0)6238-656 Tel: + 49 (0) 6238-656
Fax: +49 (0)6238-4602 Fax: +49 (0) 6238-4602
www.weingut-philipp-kuhn.de www.weingut-philipp-kuhn.de
info@weingut-Philipp-Kuhn.de info@weingut-Philipp-Kuhn.de

So I recently received a shipment of the exciting 2010 vintage of assorted German wine from Valckenberg. This is the oldest family owned wine merchant in Germany, and is now run by Wilhelm Steifensand, a seventh generation descendant.

Today Valckenberg has multiple domestic partnerships and is active in 24 countries worldwide.

The wines in the Valkenberg collection represent top quality, evidenced in both the glass and from the detailed winery web pages which shows pictures of the owners and their dedication to their wineries.

Below are some tasting notes...a great combination of sweet and dry wines ....
 

2010 Schloss Saarstein Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Kabinett

Style note: Delicious, well balanced wine with elegance and delicacy of aroma and flavor. Very concentrated fruit, which is green apple on the nose and palate, yet ripe cooked apricot on the med+ finish that remains crisp and clean. This wine has finesse, length, complexity between the different elements, and balance. Pair with many starters and entrees ... great match for a delicate white fish, savory starters, or Asian fare.

2010 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Spatlese

Style note: Fresh nose of ripe peach and apricot give way to a medium- bodied offdry wine with good balance between sweetness and acid, and a lemon/lime citrus profile that mixes with the ripe concentration of peach/apricot fruit. Finesse and elegance.

The Estate of Maximin Grünhaus dates back to the Roman era, when vines were planted here in the first century A.D. The monopole site of Maximin Grünhaus is divided into the single vineyards: Bruderberg, Herrenberg and Abtsberg.

In 1810, Maximin Grünhaus was sold to its first owner. Then in 1882 it was purchased by the von Schubert family, who, to this day, continue the tradition of high quality.
Since 1981 Dr. Carl-Ferdinand von Schubert leads the estate. Together, with his manager and winemaker Stefan Kraml, they are responsible for the high quality of the wines with their incomparable finesse and elegance.

2010 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett

Style note: Very floral nose of concentrated yellow flowers and also minerals and citrus leads to a palate with refreshing spritz of Co2, intense lemon/lime zest, minerality, and a very long lemon/lime zest finish that goes on forever with minerality that is remarkable.

2010 Carl Graff Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett

Style note: Refreshing Kabinett wine with intense minerallity (very very intense) and some refreshing citrus notes further enlivened by the CO2 on the palate. Extremely long mineral finish, crisp and clean, with pure fruit notes of lemon, lime, apricot, peach.

2010 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Erste Lage

Style note: An elegant dry wine that presents sweet on the nose, with its concentrated flavors of ripe peaches and apricot yet is dry on the palate with that same extreme concentration of apricot/peach richness and high minerality, enlivened by fresh citrus such as lemon, limon, and the zest of both. The finish is extremely long, lasting for more than a minute.

2009 Weingut Johannishof (H.H. Eser) Riesling Charta

Style note: A drier style of Riesling with concentrated fruit (tree fruit) that is dry and concentrated, lively acidity, and incredibly long mineral finish studded with pure apple. This is a quality , concentrated wine with finesse, elegance, length, intensity of flavor, complexity of flavor, concentration of fruit, and typicity of the Rheingau region
 
2010 Schloss Wallhausen Riesling Two Princes

Style note: With its fresh crisp clean nose and spritz of c02, this is a bright, lively wine with racy acidity, intense minerality, and a very long mineral/lemon-lime finish. A delicious drinik it now wine to celebrate spring and summer at picnics, and also to serve with first courses through the year.

2010 Weingut Liebfrauenstift Riesling trocken

Style note: Racy acidity and fresh just-squeezed juicy lime make this a fabulous wine to pair with seafood, especially fresh crab salad with cilantro. Excellent balance, elegance, and finesse. A very fresh tasting wine with concentration of ripe yellow fleshed fruit (apricot, peach) and a long, mineral rich finish.

2010 P.J. Valckenberg Riesling Undone

Style note: Intense minerality and a juicy squirty of fresh lime mark this well balanced dry riesling with excellent balance and structure, and the perfumed nose of ripening apricot and peach fruit. Delicious as an aperitif or to pair with seafood.
 
2010 P.J. Valckenberg Gewürztraminer

Style: This delicious, spicy, medium bodied wine has a tantalizing aroma of ripe spiced sauteed peaches, lychee, and roses also reflected on the palate. The exotic style of this wine, with its long finish, refreshing acidity, yet ripe fruit flavors will pair very well with Asian, Insian, and spicy cuisine.

2010 Grafen Neipperg Lemberger trocken

Style note: Aroma of concentrated ripe red cherry, with racy palate of more ripe red cherries and long red cherry finish with earth and high minerality. Excellent pairing with salmon, pork, and rare red meat.

2010 Schloss Castell Silvaner trocken (Germany, Franken)

Style note: Very aromatic with young fresh green shoots and ripe apricot/peach, this is a dry, racy wine with med+ acidity, no tannin or oak, that is refreshing and cleansing as an aperetif or with a first course of seafood or fish.
 
 

Do you love Riesling wine? After spending three days in Germany recently on a Master of Wine sponsored trip, I am absolutely amazed at the quality, minerality, and incredible power of these wines.

So you can understand that when I received a case of wines from Valckenberg recently, you can imagine my delight - I was like a kid in a candy store. First, I should tell you that the Valckenberg web site is up to date and gives you instant analysis about the vintage, remarks about the vintage, and full contact info for the producers.

Below are the wines I tasted -- all were incredibly well crafted, and some - by sheer personal preference - I like more than others.

Saarstein Pinot Blanc 2008 - a fresh, fruity, dry wine with intense minerality (about six grams residual sugar) great for a salad course.

Huber Alte Reben Spatburgunder 2007 - a delicious Pinot Noir with incredible balance

Grafen Neipperg Muskateller 2009 - at 13 grams of sugar per liter, a very aromantic wine with fine and lively fruit aromas of apricots, pineapple and nutmeg. Incredible balance.

Undone Pinot Noir 2008 - Very smooth, with berry and plum notes on the palate. 100% stainless steel.

Valckenberg Dornfelder 2009 - silky, sweet red with flavors of cherries and vanilla. Low
tannins with a very smooth finish.

Castell Silvaner 2009 - Fresh and fruity, with strong minerality and lively acidity. 

Baron K Riesling Kabinett 2009 - It is a very mineral, full-bodied, fruity wine with natural sweetness, a slight hint of acidity and a long finish. Matches perfectly well with slightly spicy dishes.

Maximin Grunhauser Riesling QbA 2009 - Delicious! Fine nose with slate overtones, attractive mineral acidity  very good balance with a delicate finish

Kesselstatt Josephshofer Riesling Kabinett 2009 - Classic Riesling with racy acidity, balance, and fabulous minerality

Liebfrauenstift Riesling Trocken 2009 - delicicate wine, not too sweet, perfect for white fish

Rheingraf Riesling Trocken 2009 - Another classic Riesling with ripping acidity and incredible balance

Johannishof “V” Riesling Kabinett 2009 - Just a touch of sweetness to offset the zesty acidity - very well made.

Martin Tesch

Today in NYC two of the biggest wine shows came to town, both located at the same time at different ends of the city. Now knowing that Riesling is a white, lower alcohol wine, you may prefer to visit Riesling producers first and leave the more alcoholic, more red varietal Spanish wine for last.

Then again, you might be influenced by the way experts taste in Burgundy, which is red first and then white.

I was able to have an early, more private tasting and seminar with Martin Tesch, whom I met a few years back when Wines of Germany organized a tour. Then - as today - he brought with him glass jars containing the various soils of his appellation.
 

Riesling fans know it is the soil that makes the wine ... last week I blind tasted five Rieslings, each from a different region of the world, and can attest that soil as well as climate are the keys to putting the correct Riesling in its region. Today Mr. Tesch spoke about secrets of keeping balance with a low acidity (it's all about skin contact) and the curious news that international rock stars are now demanding Riesling on their world tours. Perhaps it has something to do with "rock" and roll.

Sherri Weiss Poall from Wines of Germany had one of the most popular tables at the Riesling event - the table was called 1990's - a Decade of Great Rieslings and it feautred Weingut Heitlinger, Baden 1994 Burg Ravensburg Husarenkappe, Braun Nierstein 1996 Riesling Auslese, Weingut Dr. Loosen 1991 Riesling Spatlese, Domanenweingut Schloss Schonborn 1997 Spatlese Riesling, Weingut Max Ferd Richter  1990 Spatlese, and Weingut Okonomierat Schmitt 1990 Spatlese. All were excellent examples of the magic that happens when you have a balanced, aged Riesling.z

For the record, the new trend is doing away with the Gothic letters and making German Rieslings more fun and approachable. The challenge is making the German wine laws more uniform - we will see.

Meanwhile, the Spanish tasting was held in a space near the Museum of Natural History. Excellent showings of whites and reds, and I stopped to steak to a few producers in detail. Javier Banales Vanes from Bodega Otazu always has excellent wines from his Navarra estate. As you can see, the rose (made from Merlot!) was a gorgeous color.
 

javiar Banales

Do you like Riesling wine? If so, the next question would be which type? As you are aware, Riesling can be bone dry or as sweet and thick as honey.

And an even sharper question may be how you prefer your Riesling to be packaged? The scary looking, but traditional, labels with gothic type and un-pronounceable German names like Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg, or something as fun, cool, and simple as “Undone?”

Recently, a representative from P. J. Valckenberg, an exporter, sent me a case of its new vintages, a mixed back in terms of modern and traditional German labels and wine styles. Many of both the modern and traditional labels had screwcap closures, suggesting a concern for freshness and a precaution against cork taint. The winesw ere uniformly quite good, dry in the new style meant to be paired with food. Valckenberg is the oldest family owned wine merchant in Germany, being run by Wilhelm Steifensand, a seventh generation descendant. Royal dynasties and many renowned personalities of the times are Valckenberg customers.

Weingut Bassermann-Jordan Pfalz

Wine: 2008 Bassermann Jordan Estate Riesling trocken

About the Producer: The Jordan Family started Wine Growing in the 18th century Friedrich von Bassermann-Jordan was the author of the seminal work on The History of Wine growing. Very special is the estate’s museum of old wines, starting with an 1706 Forster Ungeheuer. Their winemaker Ullrich Mell is one of the most
respected in Germany

Region /Vineyards:The vines for the Bassermann-Jordan Riesling are planted on the slopes of the “Haardt” mountains, the so-called hills of the western brim of the Rhine valley. The slopes are south-east facing and contain a lot of sandstone in the soil. The vines are in the average 15 years old.

Vintage: Warm weather in spring fostered an early flowering. Summer was typical with no extremes of temperature or storm, but with more rain than in 2007, but equal to the 10-year average. Periodic rainfall delayed picking, but there were enough dry periods to harvest healthy grapes and it paid to wait for ideal ripeness. The wines of vintage 2008 are promising: rich in nuances and substance, complex, very aromatic.

Tasting Notes: Lemon in color, nose of minerals, honey soaked apricots, on the palate dry, medium acidity, with notes of ripe apricots and peaches. Pair this with seafood.

Observations: The label is somewhat classic in style with a modern twist. An illustrated woman is nude beneath a transparent dress. A very versatile wine that will please people who like their Riesling dry as well as a touch sweet.