Felidia is the fabulous venue for our Wine Media Lunches -- it is owned by PBS star Lidia Bastianich --

-- and you can imagine the pleasure in being invited to join Felidia's Executive Chef Fortunato Nicotra, along with Michelin-star Sicilian chef Patricia Di Benedetto and Azienda Agricola d'Alessandro for a Sicilian Food and Wine Dinner at Felidia on Thursday, January 19^th at 7pm.

I adore Sicilian wine and my crystal ball tells me that this will be the wine of the decade. The whites have a pleasant bitter finish that ends with a decisive finish ... they are not "fruity" in the New World sense of the word. The reds are also milder than most New World reds. Just very different and the difference is appreciated.

At any rate, the evening presented the opportunity to experience the flavors of Sicily interpreted by two Sicilian born and raised chefs and paired with the soulful wines of Azienda Agricola d'Alessandro based in the province of Agrigento.

This was actually a consumer event (yes, you could have gone too!) hence the reason I was curious why I did not see too many familiar faces.

The gentlemen distributing and selling Azienda Agricola d'Alessandro got up between courses to talk about the wines and the food of this region, and were better than any Broadway show (in a good way). They were 'educators' without this being part of their title, helping this lay audience understand how the wines were made and their best points.

Azienda Agricola d'Alessandro is a winery located near the ancient southern Sicilian seaside town of Agrigento, renowned during the golden age of Ancient Greece. The vintages are newer yet the wines were all extremely well made. Here is the menu:

SHAVED RAW TUNA AND AMBERJACK WITH OCTOPUS VINAIGRETTE
D'ALESSANDRO INZOLIA 2009

FISH STUFFED PACCHERI WITH FISH SOUP
CHOCOLATE RAVIOLI WITH HOUSE MADE RICOTTA, ANCHOVY AND CARDOON “BRODETTO”
D'ALESSANDRO NERO D'AVOLA 2009

ALMOND CRUSTED SWORDFISH
D'ALESSANDRO NERO D'AVOLA/SYRAH 2007

BASIL ICE CREAM, NERO D’AVOLA REDUCTION AND HONEYCOMB
RICOTTA MOUSSE WITH PISTACHIO CRUMBLE AND WARM BITTER ORANGE SAUCE

Fun Facts about Sicillian wine:

1. Sicily produces more wine than New Zealand, Austria and Hungary combined.
2. 90% of the wines produced in Sicily are dessert wines.
3. Although there are a bevy of dessert wines to choose from, there are impressive reds and whites as well. Among them is Nero d’Avola, the most prominent red grape variety on the island with smooth tannins and peppery notes.
4. Sicilians have been cultivating grapes and making wine since the 8^th Century BCE, heavily dominating their agriculture during Grecian rule. You can say wine now runs in their veins.
5. Sicilian wines make up 1/6 of all Italian wine production and are more heavily exported than ever before

About the Chefs

Patrizia di Benedetto learned traditional Sicilian cooking from her mother and in 1991, opened the Bye Bye Blues restaurant in Palermo – a great success from the very beginning, with its concentration on a lighter cuisine, using plentiful fish and vegetables and the fresh flavors of the Mediterranean. Patrizia was named Best Pastry Chef in Espresso’s Italian Restaurant Guide, and in the course of the last few years she has been broadening her experience in Los Angeles (Valentino Restaurant), Chicago (Margarita Inn) and New York (Hostaria Mazzei), as well as Italy (at the well-known Italian culinary centre Cast Alimenti at Brescia).

Fortunato Nicotra arrived in New York City to work for celebrity chef Lidia Matticchio Bastianich in 1995.  Hired as her Executive Chef of the famous flagship restaurant, Felidia, the restaurant earned three stars from Ruth Reichl from the New York Times only three months after his arrival. Nicotra earned his first Michelin Star at the young age of 23 at the Villa Marchese Restaurant in the beautiful seaside town of Milazzo, Sicily.  Although Nicotra is Sicilian by birth, he grew up in Torino where he completed his culinary degree at the prestigious Hotel and Restaurant School prior to working in several restaurants in northern Italy and then in Sicily where he left his mark.

Do you like sulfates in your wines?

No one does ...

Last night at Eataly (the new Italian food specialty megastore in Manhattan) I discovered  Domodimonti,  a boutique winery located on the picturesque countryside of Montefiore dell'Aso, in Le Marche Region, Italy. In addition to Domodimonti we tasted other specialty items from Marche, as well as fabulous Amaro digestifs from Varnelli.

I sat next to Domodimonti representative Marco Scapagnini and learned their objective is to produce wines as naturally as possible with the least amount of additives and make the highest quality Natural Wine.

Their approach can best be described as follows:

• Grapes are hand-picked
• Sustainably-grown, using organic matter
• Low-yielding vineyards
• No added sugar, and strict selection of yeasts
• No acid adjustments
• No other additives for mouth-feel, color, etc.
• Minimal sulfites added
• Use of state-of-the-art technology

In 2010, Domodimonti launched its new state-of-the-art winery, designed to generate the least amount of visual and ecological impact on the environment: a commitment to the production of Wines in the respect of Nature.

It was a fabulous evening, and Marco is an excellent representative for his products. Not all "natural" wines are delicious, yet Domodimonti manages to strike the right balance between quality taste and staying true to the environment.

For wine geeks, I've copied some information about the vineyard and harvest ...

THE VINEYARD

The vineyard’s 48 hectares of land are spread across the backdrop of Montefiore dell’Aso. They are facing south on clayish soil, which in the past was covered by the Adriatic sea. Remnants of ancient times have left behind minerals that are very precious to the development of the vines. The vicinity of the  Adriatic Sea to the east, the protection offered by the mountain chain “Sibillini” to the west, and the winery’s altitude of 300 meters above sea level, all play a role in providing an ideal microclimate for healthy and natural ripening of the grapes.

Domodimonti’s first vintage was in 2004. Although the vineyard has been in existence for over fifty years,  a great deal of work was performed to restructure the original vines, and plant new ones.

Our vineyards are spread over several parcels of land, all located around Montefiore dell’Aso.  The grape varieties grown include: Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot, Pecorino, Passerina Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

THE HARVEST

Throughout the growing season, Domodimonti’s Agronomist carefully monitors vine growth. During the summer months, the vines are pruned reducing the fruit by 67%. This strengthens the vines, so that the remaining grapes get the maximum amount of nutrients and achieve their full qualitative potential.

The harvesting season usually starts at the beginning of September, but varies from year to year. We continue to use a traditional approach of harvesting grapes manually in spite of the higher cost. Our dedicated staff’s strict methodology helps determine grape ripeness by testing the pulp, skin and seeds, as well as other parameters such as consistency of ripeness, astringency, acidity and flavour. This regime allows us to precisely time the harvesting of each parcel of grapes.

All of our grapes are then carefully sorted for quality according to a strict standard of production. Only thirty percent of the year’s harvest is typically processed during vinification. The must is then transferred to a shoot where gravity pulls the liquid into stainless steel vats and begins fermentation.

OUR METHODS

Domodimonti's production method revolves around the systematic amalgamation of the best techniques and technologies from the Old World and the New World respectively. The objective is to produce wines as naturally as possible without the use of chemical and/or additives to synthetically enhance our wines.

Old World Techniques:

• Manual harvesting to minimize stress and bruising of the fruit.
• Pruning 67% of grape clusters to increase nutrients to the remaining fruit.
• The use of natural yeast.
• The wines are aged in traditional French oak barrels located in Domodimonti’s wine cellar. Depending on the wine, the duration in barrels may range from 3-14 months, after which, the wine is bottled and stored for an additional period of at least three months before being shipped to its various distributors.

New World Technology:

• The entire winemaking process is performed under nitrogen which is generated by ionic exchange, allowing us to handle and later bottle the wine in the absence of oxygen.
• Temperature controlled vats with external insulation jackets allow strict control of the very important stage of fermentation.
• The use of cryomaceration: the grapes are de-stemmed and gravity-fed into stainless steel vats where a quick drop in temperature, from two (2) to five (5) degrees Celcius is maintained. This allows the pulp to absorb aromas otherwise lost to the pomace, which in turn limits the solubility of polyphenols and protects against oxidation.
• The use of First and Second fermentation to ensure the organic and antioxidant properties of the wine are not lost.

The Sulfite Difference

Sulfites are typically used to stop the very crucial stage of fermentation, and stabilize the wine to reduce the occurrence to spoilage. Due to the extended usage of sulfites by producers, the Canadian Food Inspection Agency has ranked it within its top nine food allergens. Domodimonti's use of temperature controlled vats with external insulation jackets allow us to strictly control the very important stage of fermentation. By controlling the temperature of each individual vat, we are able to substitute the use of sulfites during the fermentation process. This cornerstone approach creates a more natural, and non-synthetic wine.   Unfortunately, there is a minimum sulfite quantity required by law, but this minimalistic amount insures that our product arrives to our international destination intact. In comparison, we are far lower than any biological wine.   An additional technique utilized to substitute chemicals in the wine making process is the implementation of cryomaceration. It is a process in which the grapes are de-stemmed and gravity-fed into stainless steel vats where a quick drop in temperature, from two (2) to five (5) degrees Celcius is maintained. This allows the pulp to absorb aromas otherwise lost to the pomace, which in turn limits the solubility of polyphenols and protects against oxidation. A technique that is very costly to implement, but its benefits replaces the use of chemical compounds to alter the aromatic properties of the wine.

“Welcome!” exclaims affable Emanuele Rabotti, his exuberant and expressive face lighting up at the appearance of long lost (very lost!) visitors.

Perhaps the first thing you should know is that Emanuele i(beyond being a very nice and fun guy) is that he is the owner and winemaker behind Monte Rossa winery, one of the oldest and most prestigious wineries in the region even though it was established in 1972.

Emanuele makes Franciacorta, and only Franciacorta ... this is the name of the sparkling wine of the same name that is often compared to the finest champagne. Key differences are the climate, as Franciacorta is warmer, so the wine has less acidity and the tradition of long barrel aging on the lees (dead yeast cells). This can be as long as six years, which gives the wines their characteristic notes of brioche and spice. Like Champagne, Franciacorta is made with the traditional method, which means the same bottle used for the secondary fermentation is what consumers buy in the store.

As you can see from the picture above, the Monte Rossa estate is gorgeous! Manuele grew up in the luxurious 17th century mansion that lords over the vineyards. In 1982 he joined the family business and turned his attention to producing top quality Franciacorta.

The perfect host, Manuele procurs a golf cart and our tour begins as he drives steadily up the tallest hill in Fransicorta so we could see the vineyards and surrounding topography (including the Alps mountain, a river, various farms) in perfect splendor.

Also perched on the top of the hill is a picturesque church, which belonged to the aristocratic family who owned the mansion with its murals, frescos, and fine oil paintings of aristocratic nobles. Though the mansion dates from the 17th century, its foundation dates from the 14th century.

“Through the centuries, the noble family used this as a summer house, full time residence, and also, had small lodge near the forest for hunting,” Manuele explains. “They made wine, but in those days the vineyards were mixed with other types of produce."

We visit the various vineyards, which have just been hand-harvested. Unlike Champagne and any other sparkling wine, the grapes used for Franciacorta include Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, and Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir).

Soil on Monte Rossa is stone, which allows for good drainage and also accounts for the minerality in the wine. On our tour we see an enormous pile of huge stones that have been removed from the young, year-old version planted on the top slopes.

As we zipped through the mature Pinot Nero vineyard I couldn’t help but notice gorgeous looking dark, heavy fruit still hanging on the vines a week after harvest.

“We leave some grapes on the vines so the old people could come and pick it and make a sweet wine traditional to the area,” Manuele says. "For acidity, it is important to pick the grapes before they get too ripe."

As Manuele generously shows us the winery, I am absolutely dazzled by what I can only describe as an elevator driven tank.

Just like the kind of high tech circular, glass enclosed elevator you might find in a high tech hotel, Manuele has a stainless steel tank that rises and falls at the touch of a button.

Grapes are vinified separately by variety, and then they are blended. Like Champagne, a percentage of " reserve wine" from previous vintages is added to the blend depending on the intended style and quality.

We visit the maturation room, which has French, American, and Hungarian oak (it gives it different spice and nutty notes). Manuele never uses new oak for fermentation as he does not like the oak to take over the flavor of the wine. Instead, the wine is four times used at the very least, as his main goal is micro oxygenation.

Stirring the lees (dead yeast cells) is crucial for the rich, toasty flavors of the wine, and it is done two ways: the barrel can be turned, and also the traditional battonage with a stick.

Now the tasting room is built into a space that, 300 years ago, was used to kill pigs on a certain day of the year. The meat would provide families with meat throughout the year in different forms. Visitors could still see the hooks on the ceiling (used for hanging the meat), and also the ancient sinks and fireplaces carved out of stone.

The wine tasting table is a site to behold, as it had been personally designed by the resourceful Manuele. Elegant sinks slide out in drawer-like fashion from the burnished wood table, with lights above designed to help the taster see and measure the bubbles.

The wines we try are:

Prima Cuvee Brut

One of my favorites with a rich, nutty, mouth feel. It rests on the lees for at least 24 months (mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco with 15% Pinot Nero)

Saten

This word is used to identify a wine produced by Chardonnay grapes and only 5 atmospheres of pressure.

Rose Brut

Everyone loves the color of rose, and this wine is delicious and pleasing to the eye

P.R. Brut Blanc de Blanc

This wine is produced from Chardonnay grapes, 65% from best cru and 35% from vintage (reserve). It is named after the initials of Manuele’s parents.

Cabochon Brut

Now this is the flower of the entire production. It is produced in the most favorable yers from Chardonnay (70%) and Pinot Nero (30%) The wine rests on the leees for over 40 months.

Very smooth, enticing, and delicious with exotic spice notes!

Very excited to visit Brescia, Italy for the wine blogger's conference!

I have been reading a lot about Bellavista and hope to visit the winery.

While i have not had every Franciacorta wine, the ones I have enjoyed from this DOCG appelation have been the equal of Champagne in terms of finesse and elegance. In fact, during one session during a Society of Wine Educator's conference, the audience blind tasted Franciacorta vs. Cru Champagne.

The winemaker is Mattia Vezzola, who uses the 'classical method' to produce sparkling wines in the same manner as in Champagne (and also, Cava from Spain) which means that the the consumer enjoys wine from the same bottle in which fermentation takes place.

The wines are produced under DOCG regulations, meaning that NV Franciacorta wines must spend 18 months on lees in the bottle. Vintage Franciacorta must spend a minimum of 30 months on the lees. 

Unlike the grapes of Champagne, the primary grapes for Franciacorta is Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier. The vineyards are 200 meters on a hill, with limstone type soils, but a warmer climate and cool breezes from nearby Lake Iseo which gives the wine more concentrated fruit and lower acidity.

Please stay tuned to this blog for more news after a potential visit!
 

Imagine yourself in a seminar with two delicious looking glasses of sparkling wine in front of you. One, you are told, is from Champagne. The other, Franciacorta a DOCG region in Northern Italy famous for its sparkling wine using the traditional method.

You taste the sparklers and one seems much more elegant than the other, light and delicate and very blanc de blanc. It must be Champagne, you think.

But no! It is a chardonnay-based sparkler from Franciacorta, and actually from Ca' del Bosco. The other was a famous brand Champagne I won't reveal just yet.

Michael Broadbent of Christie's auction house recently reviewed the wine in Decanter, praising the Brut 2007 (100% Chardonnay) and calling it very pale, fragrant, with good acidity and a spicy finish. He also mentioned its founder Maurizio Zanella, whom he met at the Place de la Concorde in Paris many years earlier ...

The story goes that Zanella moved to Franciacorta when he was fifteen, then saw Champagne and was struck by the idea of making a sparkling wine in Franciacorta. In 1979 he planted the first five rows of vineyard in a way thought revolutionary at the time -- very dense, with minimal distance between the vines.

I will be attending the European wine blogger's conference in Brescia and hope to report more about what's up at Ca' del Bosco and other wineries, so stay tuned ...

Today I received three bottles of Pinot Grigio, all at different price points, from Northern Italy. I think that this shipment is interesting because Pinot Grigio is one of the most popular wines in the world. In fact, I've heard sommeliers say people walk into restaurants and just demand a bottle of PG no matter what they are having.

The PGs I received today are a little different in that they are from quality producers dedicated to letting the terroir shine through (many PGs in America and also Italy are bulk production).

So let's take the 2010 Ecco Domani Venezie PG ... it is light bodied, crisp, and great with salads.

The 2009 Da Vinci Delle Venezie PG uss late harvest grapes fora portin of its blend, which enhances the fruit aromatics and gives it a certain texture. The first time I tasted this procedure (a different wine) I asked the producer if he stirred the lees (dead yeast cells). The answer was no, the wine gets its texture from the more viscious late harvest grapes.

And the 2009 Maso Canali Trentino PG is also made with a selection of late harvest grapes, then rack dried for eight weeks so it develops deep tropical flavors. This wine is great with something like grilled prawns with sea salt.

Fabulous wines, all available from your local market.

We've all heard the story of Cleopatra's legendary powers of seduction over Julius Caesar and later, Mark Antony. Yet consider this. What if the tool of seduction wasn't Cleopatra's famed beauty, but her secret stash of a bright ruby red sparkling wine with a bouquet of roses and violets?

Ancient historians write of a sweet, aromatic wine with the distinctive flavor of musk and a candied, floral aroma. Over the years, historians - and connoisseurs of gourmet cuisine and good wine - have lost track of this wine, now believed to be made from the Brachetto grape (grown in areas in small towns in the provinces of Allesandria and Asti, Italy).

In the early years of the previous century, self-styled Brachettos made of moscato nero, malvasia, or aleatico grapes flooded the market unchecked. In 1992, the Consorzio di Tuela del Brachetto d'Acqui was founded to control the growth and development of the true Brachetto wine and in 1996, played a key role in obtaining DOCG (Designation of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) status.

With its scintillating ruby red color and bouquet of rose petals and raspberries, this delicious, pleasantly sweet, effervescent wine is a natural to begin or end a romantic dinner, or break out for friends and family to enjoy for holiday parties and New Year's Eve. At only about 5.5% alcohol, Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG makes a great afternoon aperitif and pairs well with bitter chocolate, light sweets, fruit tarts, and Italian cookies such as Gli amaretti di Mombaruzzo, a traditional amaretti biscuit indigenous to the area.

In America, many celebrity chefs are discovering this increasingly popular wine as an adjunct to their tasting menus. Terence Feury of the celebrated Striped Bass restaurant in Philadelphia paired Banfi Brachetto d'Acqui Vigneto La Rosa 1998 with white nectarine carpaccio with cherry Breton and brown-butter ice cream when he was invited to prepare dinner at the prestigious James Beard House in NYC. An unconventional, creative way to use the wine is to freeze it into a granita (frozen flavored ice) to refresh the palate between courses.

According to the regulation of DOCG status of 1996, Brachetto d'Acqui must be produced from 100% brachetto grapes from the specified terroir. Brachetto grapes are harvested from the end of August to mid-September. The must soaks with the skins for two days in order to obtain the desired ruby color, then aged three months in the bottle. It should be drunk young to reveal its tantalizing scent of Bulgarian roses, must, and fruit.

DOCG status serves to establish the finer quality and characteristics of Brachetto d'Acqui compared to the more generic Piedmonte Brachetto. At a price of under $20 dollars a bottle, you don't have to wait for the holidays to roll around to try it. Try popping the cork in the heat of summer when your thoughts turn to rose. Or even in the dead of winter, for its rose perfume and effervescence is sure to cheer you up and remind you that warm, sunny days are just around the corner.

Marenco "Pineto" Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG 2005, $20.00

Imported by VIAS, Inc. - 212 629 0200 - http://www.viaswine.com

Honeyed notes of violets, honey, orange blossom and raspberry on the nose and palate, delicious.

"Braida" di Giacomo Bologna Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG 2005, $16.00

Imported by Vinifera Imports - 631 467 5907 - http://www.viniferaimports.com

Lush, aromatic bouquet with hints of ripe red fruit and fragrant rose.

Gatti Piero Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG 2005, $9.99

Imported by Summa Vittis, Inc. - 707 933 0906 - http://www.summavitis.com

Intense and aromatic, with notes of rose, strawberry, and wild cherry.

Rosa Regale Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG 2005, $16.00

Imported by Banfri Vintners - 516 626 9126 - http://www.banfivintners.com

Dark wild cherry on the nose and palate, along with strawberry and roses. A perfect foil for bittersweet dark chocolate.

Cantine Neirano Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG Dolce V.S.Q.P.R.D., $10.00

Imported by Biagio Cru & Estate Wines - 516 299 4344 - http://www.biagiocru.com

Sweet and delicate, with accents of raspberry, rose, and wild cherry.

Or, you can try http://www.wine-searcher.com

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

With just seventy producers making the classic Vino Nobile di Montepulchiano in the Tuscan region of Italy, continuing the tradition of this wine is a labor of love for winemakers and consumers alike. Frequently confused with the Montepulchiano grape, it is important to remember the main grape here is Sangiovese, here called Prugnelo Gentile.Though some producers can add up to thirty percent of other varieties (colorino, caniaolo, mammolo, even Merlot and /cabernet Sauvignon by law) wine made from 100% Sangiovese is not uncommon.

When compared to Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalchino (note the difference in spelling) this is a more rustic wine, with flavors that experts sometimes describe as "muddled." It is an earthy wine, with assertive tannins. Black cherry is the most concentrated and recognizable flavor, yet one can detect notes of milk chocolate and aged tomato jam. It would be a great pairing with pizza and pasta with a spicy red sauce component.

In the 18th century, Vino Nobile was quite fashionable, described as the "king of kings"  as far as wine goes. During our tasting, led by MW Mary Ewing Mulligan, the wine takes on a softer, earthier, tone.

Chianti Classico

Ed McCarthy, author of Champagne for Dummies and co-author of other Dummies wine books led this seminar on Chianti Classico, which is its own DOCG region within the Chianti area. Laws change every few years, yet currently the wine must have at least 80% Sangiovese, no white grapes are allowed, and small percentages of red international varieties are allowed, though Caniaolo still seems typical and traditional.

As you can see from the photo below, color of the wine varies tremendously. This could be due to the addition of international varieties or the grape colorino. I mention this because it could make it harder to blind taste Chianti Classico accurately at a blind tasting.

Characteristic of Chianti Classico is the firm cherry flavor, which in our tasting varied between black cherry and red cherry, and oak. In some wines, the oak was more discreet than others.

Brunello di Montalchino

Today was all about Brunello di Montalchino .... Noted writer Tom Maresca we learned about its birth in the 18th century, its laws (3 years minimum aging, an extra year for riserva) and its varied soils. Much of the talk centered around the politics of Brunello di Montalchino, which probably could apply to any wine region.

The wines tasted were all 2006 and to my palate, at least ten years away from being seriously ready to drink, though a few softer wines could be opened now. Yet why?

A fabulous event by three of the best educators in the city and great organization by The Connected Table.
 

"You need a valet!" remarked a trio of friends from Manhattan's Wine Media Guild on a very cloudy and rainy March 10th, as I stepped into the Metropolitan space on 18th street. I had come from several appointments and among the several books, bags, ipad, and set of glasses from my morning tasting glass were the weather's requirement of boots, hats, and gloves. Such is the trade-off for sunny Los Angeles.

Seating for this seminar was limited, so I was sure to arrive early. The seminar, led by MW Mary Ewing Mulligan, also included producer panelists who spoke excellent English and shed quite a bit of light on what is up in Alto Adige.

As you might guess by looking at any picture, it is a high elevation area with cool temperatures that makes for wines with good acidity, and the 300 days of sunshine help ripen the grapes. Among the many wines tasted were varieties familiar to Americans: Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, and even Sauvignon Blanc.

The range in vineyard altitude in Alto Adige provides a huge diversity of microclimates. The Alps protect the region from the northern wind and the Atlantic influence, leaving the central valleys open toward the south and the Mediterranean.

One of the producers mentioned that during the summer, the temperature could reach over 100 degrees, yet the "Ora" - a dry cooling wind from Lake Garda, tempers the hot summer days.

A long ripening season with high diurnal difference (hot days, cool nights) provides great conditions for long lived wines.

So are Alto Adige wines distinctive? They are excellent quality wines, and require some thought in terms of pairing them with food. Here in New York, the menu at Grammercy Tavern seems perfect for them, as the chef often features a more "solid" fish like sturgeon, paired with a slightly rich sauce. Instead of a Chardonnay, a Pinot Grigo from Alto Adige would be perfect.

These wines are best introduced to the market through food pairing, particularly with more complex presentations of seafood or, perhaps, chicken. All the wines tasted had an extreme mineral qualilty and weight, not often seen in white wines without extensive oak aging.

Excellent seminar and fabulous introduction to new wines to discover.

Imagine .... Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore all in one room!

That was the scene today at the Hilton New York, where presidents of the above named four Consorzios met with journalists in a private room to talk about their regions and vintages.

What's up in Chianti Classico?
 

Silvia Fiorentini

I spoke with Silvia Fiorentini who gave the positive news that sales were up 30% over last year.

And Brunello Di Montalcino?

After introducing myself to Presidente Ezio Rivella, I spoke to Stefano Campatelli (Directtore) who I met last year about many things: if the region was considering reducing alcohol to international pressure, if they are modernizing the labels, and typical problems of the vintage.

As far as alcohol is concerned, they prefer everything natural in Sienna, and if I understood them correctly, do not see the need to resort to spinning cones and other methods. As far as labels are concerned, their market likes them ... they export 62% of their wine.

And will their market accept screwcap? For now, Stefano says no -- but leaves the option for Rossi di Montalcino, which is a lighter, less expensive, ready to drink style.

Stefano in middle, Mr. Rivella to his left

What about Vino Nobile di Montepulciano?
 

I spoke with Dott. Federico Carletti, the Presidente of the Consorzio, mostly about the American market, and later went out into the ballroom to taste the Nobile di Montepuliano and compare them with the Brunello di Montalcino. The challenge is that the grapes are "cousins" of Sangiovese, even though the two appelations have their own terroir and climante.

Additionally, there are different laws with regard to maturation, with Brunello being the most strick. Even so, only serious Italian-focused experts could really blind taste these wines and (if lucky) deduce the appropriate region. On a Masters of Wine exam, I would think that if the student argued the grape, vintage, and quality factors correctly, no points would be lost for mistaking one for the other.

A Moment of Glee

Vin Santo

Vin Santo is sure to be on the MW test so I am glad I got the chance to try it -- and spend some serious moments deciding that while it shares a similar toffee color with Pedro Ximenez (a sweet desert wine) this wine is nearly transparent, while PX (as it is fondly called) is thick like caramel and ultra sweet.

This Vin Santo was made from 80% Trebbiano and 20% Malvasia that have been left to dry in the sun, then pressed and slowly matured in oak for three years.