Curious to discover S. African wine? Though imports are high in the UK, it’s often difficult to find wine from S. Africa in the United States, even in a large city like New York.

Recently I emarked on a four day trip (four days meeting with producers to discover the styles of wine they were making, check out the quality, and see the different wineries).
Below are some key finidings:

1. Quality is high among producers, yet it is crucial to be discerning and discriminating.

2. The trend among the best producers, large and small, is finding ‘micro sites’ with specific terroir. Think the tiny plots of Burgundy.

3. Increasingly, many producers are going biodynamic, organic, or at the very least are using natural yeast. More than fashionable marketing, this (at least from what I sampled) makes a better wine.

4. Larger producers are introducing tiers of quality levels. For a few dollars more, it pays to go for the best as the attention to winemaking, the quality of the grapes, and the terrior .

South Africa is now what must be one of the best and most exciting wine tourist destinationsin the world. While Napa has beautiful wineries, in South Africa the idea is that you spend a day – or at least several hours – visiting a facility. Virtually all of them have at least one restaurant, with most offering tours and some boasting museums or jeep tours.

All the wineries open to the public have tasting rooms, and these are very elegant places – most have been rebuilt/redecorated and almost all offer some sort of food or pairing option.

… and the restaurants in these wineries are incredible! I visited in early summer – before the rush – but reservations are crucial.
Driving is safe, and seemed pretty straight-forward. Traffic can be a problem, yet if you have the means, it may be best to hire a driver. We used Cape Divine Tours who were very prompt, and with 3 – 5 producer visits a day, absolutely necessary.

The range of hotels in S. Africa can suit any budget, and any expectation. The weekend before the trip, we relaxed at the One and Only in Capetown – it is located within walking distance of the waterfront in Capetown and close to dozens of restaurants, you won’t need a car if you are relaxing here for a few days before heading out to wine country.

During the four day trip through wine country itself, we stayed at at Batavia Boutique Hotel in Stellenbosch. It was actually my first time staying at what we in America call a “bed and breakfast” and what S. Africans call an Inn, so I didn’t know what to expect yet it was quite nice. It looks like every English major’s imagination of a Victorian home, with quaint touches all around and incredible attention to Victorian-era detail.

For example, sherry is in a decanter in every room (also port in the public rooms) on a complimentary basis. In the evening, guests can watch a wide screen TV in the public rooms, read, play chess, etc. in the morning, an incredible buffet breakfast awaits with eggs and other hot items cooked to order. The people who serve are very nice and very accomodating, and the set-up for breakfast (lace, antique china, tea-candles glowing in tiny antique china tea cups) was enchanting.

Click on this single URL that will take you to the producers I visited …
Happy travels!

Cape DivineTours
Mobile +21 76 815 8261 (Alecia)
             +21 72 376 4967 (Wessel)
Email: capedivinetours@gmail.com

Batavia Boutique Hotel
12 Louw Street, Stellenbosch
Telephone: +27 21887 2914
Fax                +27 21 887 2915
Email: reservations@batavia-stellenbosch.co.za
Website: http://www.bataviahouse.co.za

So my last visit in South Africa was with five producers located in the Hermanus Wine Route, also known as the Hemel en Aarde Valley, close to the sea. It was a gorgeous summer day (just thinking about it makes me nostalgic as now, just a week later, it is absolutely freezing in NYC) and the sun was shining bright.
Hermanus is a coastal town about in the most southern part of S. Africa, famous for the whales, shark diving, and increasingly wineries. It is located in the wine ward of Walker Bay, an hour and a half from Cape Town.

All five producers are distributed in the American market - but only one- Hamilton Russell Vineyards – was familiar to me as it is sold in my local NYC wine ship. Hamilton Russell is just one of the two S. African wines the shop carries, which was the primary reason I wanted to visit the country so I can explore the region and hopefully, do my part in popularizing imports.

In any event, let’s talk about Hamilton Russell first. Now owned by Anthony Russell (son of the founder) and producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The estate is located only 3 kilometers from the Atlantic ocean and the cool breezes that come inoff the ocean make this the coolest region for wine production in South Africa.

The soil is low vigor, stony, clay-rich Bokkeveld shale slopes. As is the case I’ve found in many top wineries, Anthony pinpointed the particular portions of the 52 hectare estate that produce the best cultivar and today only these particular sections grow Hamilton-Russell grapes. The wines I tried were very Burgundian, which to be specific is an elegance that is not typically found in ‘New World’ wines – a certain balance and restraint. Anthony himself is a very likeable gentleman, and from what I discovered an advocate for ‘change’ in the S. African winemaking world. I understand he is experimenting with creating new barrels in S. Africa instead of having them delivered from France.

The reception, lunch, and tasting was held at the very elegant winery of Bouchard Finlayson, which is described as “a boutique winery” yet looks like a Bel-Air mansion or a 5-star hotel in Beverly Hills – take your pick. The views are exquisite, and despite the elegance of the winery the owner, Peter Finlayson, is a very laid-back and friendly guy who had been the winemaker at Hamilton Russell Vineyards with Anthony’s father. In 1989, he competed for a prize to visit Burgundy for a week’s visit with Paul Bouchard, the Burgundian domaine/negotiant. Peter won the prize, spent the week in Burgundy, and upon his return raised funds for his own winery and persuaded Bouchard to join him in the venture (hence the name). The wines produced here are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, all very balanced, elegant, and Burgundian as you can imagine.

Carolyn Martin, Peter Finlayson’s niece, owns Creation Wines with her husband JC. At their winery the host what seems to be lovely wine pairing events with hors d’oeurves and produce several varieties of wine: Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, Semillon,

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot, Syrah and Grenache. I tasted through the many selections and found them all very nice. If you visit her site (below) you can read the reviews of others who have visited the winery – many suggest to make a day of your visit to Creation. The food is very good – quiche and salad was served for  the lunch we all shared together

Kevin Grant is the owner of Ataraxia, which is a term used to mean ‘emotional tranquility.’ He offers three handcrafted wines – sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and a syrah based blend called ‘Serenity.’ Grant has strong feelings about the state of sauvignon blanc in S. Africa, which in the past had been too generic. This is why he is so focused on finding cool-climate sites (to preserve the acidity and minerality). His Chardonnay is excellently balanced with the natural flavors of the vineyard shinning through.

Gordon Newton Johnson of Newton Johnson wines presented his premium wines, which include three lines and the varietals chardonnay, pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, and syrah. The wines are made as natural as possible to have a definite sense of place, with natural yeast and gravity fed movement -- all excellent quality.

http://www.hamiltonrussellvineyards.com
http://www.bouchardfinlayson.co.za/
http://www.creationwines.com
http://www.newtonjohnson.com
http://www.ataraxiawines.co.za/mobi/

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“Dazzling!”

This is the only possible word that can describe the Waterkloof winery in Cape Town, an area which is leading the competition for the world’s most tourist-friendly, destination-specific wine region in the world.

At Waterkloof, the excitement begins as soon as you see this modern, gorgeously high-tech winery from the roadside and drive up the Schaapenberg hillside. Look in the rearview mirror and you can see the bright, almost electric blue water of False Bay, looking very cool and refreshing on a warm summer day.

Schaapenberg is in the centre of the embrace of the Hottentots-Holland and Helderberg mountains, its highest point 300 metres above sea level and a scant four kilometres from the False Bay coast.

It used to be the hill where former Cape Colony Governor, Willem Adriaan van der Stel, once grazed his sheep, but it was also his lookout post to identify visiting ships before anyone else, allowing him to race into town and sell his produce before the competition could.

Owner Paul Boutinot (who calls himself a ‘custodian’) found the site after a ten-year search for land where he could grow biodynamic wine with a sense of origin and have a world-class restaurant. The slopes of Schaapenberg boast a myriad of different aspects but south-facing ones predominate. The prevailing Southerly winds make windbreaks an absolute necessity. The wind, so often cited as a negative factor, can play havoc with the vines at flowering, but actually aids in concentrating flavours on Schapenberg grapes. It keeps yields naturally low and it also means that pests and fungal diseases are almost unheard of. This in turn allows for the application of biodynamic farming principles.

At the winery, we are warmly welcomed by blonde, affable Nadia Barnard, who had been assistant winemaker and had just jumped to her new position of handling sales and marketing. Friendly and quite knowledgeable, she shows us around the winery which was built on different levels to accommodate gravity-led activities (more gentle for the grapes) and open-top wooden fermentors for red wine, along with other kinds of bells and whistles. The equipment is so new and shiny you could see your reflection, and is visible from the tasting room and restaurant so it is very much part of the décor.

The philosophy of the winery is simple – let the grapes make the wine. It’s increasingly becoming a catch phrase used by many winemakers today, but the winery doesn’t even believe in the world “winemaker” – (“it imples we are the creators, whereas we are merely the facilitators.”)

Yes, it is a bit marketing-speak … yet here, seeing the set-up and the terroir, it is very believable. Natural yeasts are used, the grapes are very gently picked and whole-bunched pressed, and though I am not in the field working the harvest, I can very easily imagine how gently these grapes are treated. (“We monitor, we do not dictate,” is another axiom of the winery when it comes to natural fermentation, which could take a month or eleven months). Few wineries could afford this luxury.

Although grapes were planted on Waterkloof since the early 1970s, the production of fine wines originated when the farm was planted with some of the best material available in the mid 1990s. Mr.Boutinot’s first vintage was from the 2005 harvest, reflecting improvements in soil surveys that determined the variety, rootstocks and the trellis systems to use. The results of the soil survey identified a distinctive split dividing the site, allowing the farm to produce two different styles of wine of excellent quality. The styles are defined in part by the unique circumstances of soil, aspect and altitude. Grapes from these two sites are handled and vinified separately.

Waterkloof, the top level, Circle of Life, and Circumstance wines emphasize restraint, elegance and a strong mineral character due to the vineyards’ exposed position on the upper slopes of the estate (up to 300 metres above sea level). Waterkloof wines are specifically selected from those very special single vineyard sites that provide a steely, mineral quality.

Peacock Ridge wines are mainly produced from the lower, more protected slopes (between 180-250 metres above sea level). The soils are generally of sandstone origin with medium-sized stones, which aid drainage and moisture retention. Characteristically, the wines are rounder with greater generosity and a more forward style. The entry market wine, False Bay, are sourced from contracted vineyards and the unique characteristics of different vineyard sites.

You will find many varietals at Waterkloof – Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Mouvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, all very balanced and perfectly delicious! And when you visit, be certain to book lunch or dinner at the restaurant with its tall ceilings and breathtaking floor to ceiling views of False Bay. French chef Grégory Czarnecki has more than a decade's worth of experience garnered in some of the finest Michelin star restaurants in France and the experience is unbelievable.

Waterkloof

“This looks like an 18th century English cottage!” I remark, sipping a cup of tea while waiting to meet James Downes, who owns Shannon Vineyards in the cool climate region of Elgin (whose wines are sold under the name Downes Family Vineyards in the USA).

As an English major from UCLA – and a So Cal girl who grew up in Los Angeles, Newport Beach, and the ‘concrete jungle’ of big city life – there is something incredibly charming and completely old world about Mr. Downes’ home, which will soon turn into a tasting room where visitors can enjoy his excellent wines.

First, imagine the vista ... mountain peaks (representing his wines, Sanctuary Peak Mount Bullet, Rockview Ridge) all around. We are in the Elgin Valley, within what is known as the Kogelberg Biosphere.

Then, visualize the gleaming Palmiet river right there in front of you. “If you are ever hungry and too exhausted to visit the supermarket, do you ever just pull out a rod and grab a fish for lunch?” I later ask, fascinated by the idea of having a river, with real fish, right in front of you ...

... and of course there is the house itself, with its framed photographs from his childhood and its bottles of Burgundian Pinot Noir and intriguing library of classic literature ...

Soon James Downes walks in and briefly tells me a bit about the winery. The name ‘Shannon Vineyards’ pays homage to the Irish ancestry of James and his older brother Stuart, whose father hailed from County Cork, Ireland, and whose mother’s family owned the White Horse Pub (1882) London.

As a student of wine, it’s fascinating to listen to James speak about the eight years he spent growing grapes (and selling them to others) while he experimented and tweaked his vineyards to identify the best sites for growing his sauvignon blanc, semillion, pinot noir, and merlot.

A marine biologist by training, James grew up among the apple and pear orchards of Elgin acquiring an acute sense of the influences of soils and weather on fruit farming. He used Geographic Information System technology to analyse the terrain and its environment. Then two independent vineyard planting surveys were used to ensure that the right combinations of grape variety, clonal selection and rootstock were planted in the most suitable sites, considering soils and terrain aspects.

The challenge here was that Shannon Vineyards has 17 different soil types, ranging from very heavy blue/red clays, iron-enriched gravel known as Bokkeveld Shales, through to Table Mountain Sandstone. Further permutations arose with the myriad site aspects to be considered. Slopes vary from cool South, Southeast, East and Northeast facing aspects.

It is cosy and warm inside the house, yet James takes me on a quick walk to see the river up close (the mist that rises in the early morning is on the labels of the wine to symbolise Elgin’s cool climate) and explains that with the aid of canopy management, the aim is, by lengthening the ripening process, to harvest grapes that capture the broadest spectrum of flavours. For example, for the Mount Bullet wine there is as much as an 11-to-14 day gap between picking the first and last clone.

The winemaker is Gordon Newton Johnson and his wife Nadia (of Newton Vineyards) who had been a boyhood friend of Stuart Downes, James’s brother, co-owner, and head of marketing. As we taste through the excellent wines and I hear more and more about the story, I am incredibly impressed at how the brothers managed to create such quality given their very small operation (just the brothers as far as I can see) and what must be a limited budget.

These site-specific wines are very exciting, and this is a very exciting winery to watch. I am looking forward to visiting in a year or so when the tasting room is built and who knows, maybe I’ll bring a fishing rod and try my luck!

Below are three wines you can find in the USA. The sauvignon blanc is an expert blend of several vineyards, with some barrel fermented semillon added for texture and a Graves-style richness. The pinot noir is Burgundian in style, with a blackberry cherry component and four clones for complexity. The merlot is fabulous and a signature of what makes Downes Family so great.

Downes Family “Sanctuary Peak” Sauvignon Blanc 2010/11

Downes Family “Rockview Ridge” Pinot Noir 2009

Downes Family “Mount Bullet” Merlot 2009

Shannon Vineyards

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If you’ve been reading headlines in glossy food, wine, and travel magazines around the world, you’ve heard that South Africa is now the coolest wine tourism spot in the world.

Why? Beyond the high-quality of the wine which is only now beginning to be widely exported – and the passion of the winemakers – you will find absolutely incredible estates. Some of them are glossy and new, some of them are ancient and quaint, some of them have picture postcard views … well, the list goes on and on.

In fact, though the Napa Valley is known as a region for fabulous wine estates (think castles, Persian palaces …) South Africa takes the cake when it comes to fabulous wineries where you can spend the day feasting on gourmet food from celebrity chefs, exploring cellars, meeting winemakers, and much more.

At La Motte, near the charming Huguenot-settled town of Franschhoek, you can do all of the above plus hike up incredible trails, tour an art gallery, visit a water mill used to make bread for the fabulous gourmet restaurant, and even buy farm fresh produce.

Visiting La Motte is an experience – if you have ever visited Disneyland as a child, it’s just a place you will always remember. It has just won best of Wine Tourism this year for South Africa.

The visit begins with a drive up to the winery through a gorgeous oak tree lined path … there is a sense of anticipation as one enters the doors of the tasting room, located in a newly modernized and gorgeously redecorated 1752 historic structure, the Manor House.

It is here we are greeted by Michael Langenhoven, the very tall, extremely affable winemaker who welcomes us inside. The first thing you notice about the tasting room is its red walls and stunning servers.

Immediately one gets the sense this is unlike any other tasting room, in any country, you may have seen. It is set up almost like an exclusive private club, with servers warmly welcoming guests, seating them in very plush banquettes or tables, and giving menus of the wines and cuisine offered.

Guests are free to wander into the adjacent barrel cellar, again noticeable for its stunning, movie-set like ambiance. It is a real cellar, with real wine, yet very richly designed.

Michael leads us on a VIP tour of the “guts” of the winery, with its steel catwalks and giant fermentation tanks, with the major luxury (beyond the expensive, state-of-the –art winemaking equipment) being a gorgeous high-tech elevator built for Hanneli Rupert Koegelenberg, the owner, who is still very young yet is preparing for decades from now when climbing the catwalk may not be such a breeze.

Next stop is the private, glass enclosed tasting room – very exclusive – with very elegant touches such as a silver engraved tasting plate and precious stemware.

We taste through the award-winning wines that have received the highest accolades from Platters (the top South African guide to wine), Stephen Tanzer, and virtually all international wine competitions. You will find all your favorite varietals here, with the La Motte Pierneef Sauvignon Blanc (Organically Grown), Pierneef Shiraz Viognier, and Shiraz-Grenache special favorites due to their complexity, intensity of flavor, concentration of fruit, finesse, elegance, and balance. I also really liked the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Interestingly, Neal Martin – who writes for Robert Parker – also tasted the wines and remarked he was surprised to find wines of such good quality at such a gorgeous estate.

After the tasting is lunch at the winery’s Pierneef a La Motte Restaurant, named for the creativity of artist Jacob Hendrik Pierneef (1886 – 1957). It may be unusual to name a restaurant after an artist, yet you will understand why when you see this incredibly dazzling space – just looking at it is a destination in itself – see the food, and also taste the freshness and “alive” quality of the ingredients, most of it directly grown on the winery. The bread, for example, comes from flour processed from the ancient Water Mill on property, and if you liked the freshness of the vegetables from your salad, you can buy some to take home from the adjacent farm stand.

Chris Erasmus is the chef here, and the cuisine is international in style, yet are based on three centuries of recipes from the area, mostly in terms of spices and herbs. Joining us for lunch and a glass of La Motte Cap Classique sparkling wine (absolutely incredible, and I had just returned from Champagne) was CEO Hein Koegelenberg, who told us more about the winery and led us for a tour of the Museum.

The museum opened in 2010 and hosted rotating exhibitions of contemporary art by South African artists before its new exhibition of modern French tapestries and ceramics by French artist Jean Lurcat (1892 – 1966)who spear-headed the movement to reinstate tapestry as an art form in France. About the only thing I didn’t do during this incredible visit was put on some hiking shoes and climb the gorgeous hills.

Fabulous visit!
http://www.lamotte.com

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Ginny, a friendly dog with a rhythmically wagging tale, greets us as we enter the sleek glass doors of the Thelema winery situated on the top of the Helshoogte Pass about six kilometers outside of Stellenbosch.

The tasting room is large and spacious, yet what sets the room apart from others we’ve seen is a large, unusually ornate tapestry that looks as if it would be better situated in an Roman museum than here, in a rather rural region where baboons, instead of birds, feast on the grapes. The tapestry, with its bold vivid colors of burgundy, gold, and electric blue, is elegantly draped over the glass-enclosed barrel cellar below and depicts a merry feast of gorgeously dressed men and women playing instruments, dancing, and having a great time.

“Welcome!” says Thomas Webb, Sales, Marketing and General Management and the second generation of this family-owned winery. Relaxed and laid-back, Thomas explains Ginny (named for a gin-and-tonic, perhaps because of its color …) is a rescue dog and that the tapestry represents the name of the vineyard. It was named for the “Abbey of Thelema” from a story written by the 16th century French writer Rabelais. Apparently, Rabelais celebrated the hedonistic pleasures of the body …

… and in his story the followers of the Abbey of Thelema were fun-loving people who lived good life (you can read the entire story here).

Thomas ushers us into the tasting room, which is large and airy, with a breathtaking view of some of the vineyards and also the Drakenstein mountains, that look large and a bit scary in the distance. In the course of our visit, the mountains express their personality every few minutes with dark menacing clouds floating over their tips, then reflecting brilliant sunshine, then becoming dark again.

As Thomas gathers together some wine to taste, we learn the remarkable history of the vineyard. In 1983 Thomas's father Gyles, the founder and cellar master, decided to leave his job as a chartered accountant in Durban and farm grapes. Starting a winery, even for today’s billionaires, is a gamble – the expenses can be enormous. Listening to the story, my personal thought was that it was an imprudent choice for an accountant, but then again, who better than an accountant to manage expenses?

According to Thomas, who was seven at the time, the farm was in a dilapidated state, so much work had to be done in the vineyard and it would be four years until the newly planted grapes would be ready to turn into wine. By that time Gyles had received an oenology degree at Stellenbosch University, and worked stints in South Africa and abroad, The first year they made wine at a neighboring property, with Thomas’s mother and grandmother visiting various restaurants to sell the wine.

In the fullness of time the family bought their own equipment, and bought other properties (in 2000 Thelema bought Sutherland, an apple orchard in the Elgin Valley which is a cool-climate site in Elgin). Here the family has 45 hectares of vines including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Grenache, and Pinot Noir. The fruit is transported to Thelema for vinification and bottled under the Thelema Sutherland label.

We taste the Thelema Sauvignon Blanc 2011, which according to Thomas is their “bread and butter” – it is a dry style that is very easy drinking. The Sutherland 09 Viognier/Roussanne is a very aromatic wine with an aroma of saffron and east Indian spices. And of course, the Rabelais 07 is just as sumptuous as described …

A fabulous visit and wonderful success story of a hard-working winemaking family!

 Thelema Mountain Vineyards

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Kanonkop … I had never quite understood the name until I visited this winery in South Africa and saw the giant cannon near the entrance. It turns out that in the 17th century (yes, “new world” wines can be that old!) the cannon would be fired when farmers on hills saw ships pulling into the port at Cape Town to buy supplies for their next voyage.

The visual makes the name of the wine easier to remember, especially since the winery is famed for its award winning Pinotage.

First, let’s set the geography – Kanonkop is located between Stellenbosch and Paarl on the R44 and falls in a ward called Simonsberg, more commonly known as the “red wine bowl” of South Africa. It has earned a reputation both at home and abroad as an area producing the best wines in the country.

I was also very excited to see this winery because It was my first introduction to South African wine, due to the kindness of winemaker Abrie Beeslaar, a Stellenbosch BSc graduate in vini- and viticulture, who joined Kanonkop in 2002.

Three years ago Abrie was generous enough to answer the technical questions of a would-be Master of Wine student (yes, myself!) for my application paper. Kanonkop was the only Pinotage available at my Manhattan wine store, and had been highly recommended by a clerk. Thanks to Abrie, I am officially a MW student. A few years later I was able to meet him in person when Wines of South Africa came to New York.

During my visit, however, it was gracious, personable propietor Johann Krige who greeted me, a vivacious and charming individual who is the fourth generation to own the property, and works on the marketing, financial and personnel front. He is a world traveler and while he does not have the photographs scattered about to prove it (at least that I saw!) I'm sure he's dined with presidents and heads of states and even movie stars. Kanonkop is just that well known and prestigious.

Kanonkop was originally purchased by JW Sauer, a cabinet member in the parliament of the Union of South Africa. His son Paul Oliver Sauer, also a cabinet minister, took over the reins from his father and in 1968 was joined by Springbok rugby great Jan “Boland” Coetzee. Sauer's daughter inherited the estate, and married Jannie Krige, a rugby administrator at the University of Stellenbosch, so today Johann and his brother Paul are at the helm.

Johann gave me a tour that began in the bright, gorgeously designed tasting room that was buzzing with tourists and locals eager to buy and try wine. There is artwork on the walls, and a well-trained staff to pour and make suggestions. The tasting room was newly redesigned, partly to keep up with S. Africa’s new reputation as a holiday destination for wine tourism.

As Johann led the way to the winery, I learned that to ensure Kanonkop remains at the forefront of technology, the production cellar has been upgraded, the number of small barrels increased significantly to extend wood maturation potential and the laboratory refurbished and updated with state of the art equipment including new heating and cooling systems. New hand-sorting tables have been incorporated into the grape reception area to ensure only the best grapes are used.

Finally we arrived at my very favorite area of the winery, the “secret” tasting room, an ancient looking brick space where one must step down carefully into a rectangular room with a gorgeous long wooden table and hundreds, if not thousands, of bottles of library wine. Some bottles looked very old, and I couldn’t help but wonder how they would taste …

Johann opened several bottles of the top selling wines, including the Pinotage and the Cabernet Sauvignon. They were both incredibly delicious, with the Pinotage having the characteristic spice and earthy forrest floor flavors. The Cabernet was fabulous as well and can spend 24 to 36 months in new French oak.

Kadette is Kanonkops second label. A blend of 50% plus Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Matured in 225 litre French Nevers barrels for up to 16 months.

What makes winemaking at Kanonkop different is that while it follows the age-old tradition of being made in open concrete fermenters, the tanks are wide and shallow, rather high and deep. This ensures maximum skin contact. Another difference is that the soils are predominantly red decomposed granite and Hutton, with a high clay content, both of which have a very good water retention capacity.

Many thanks to Johann Krige and Abrie Beeslaar for a fabulous visit.

Kanonkop web site

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Entering Warwick Estate is like entering a reception for an elegant garden party. Before a guest even tastes the wine in the gorgeously designed tasting room, or in one of the many outdoor venues for a picnic, the stage is set for an afternoon experience.

A bit early for our appointment with winemaker Nic van Aarde, we settle into chairs around a garden-themed tasting table and take in the scene. Two very attractive young servers, apparently just hired for the busy summer season, are being trained in the various brands.

Norma Radcliffe, one of the first female winemakers in S. Africa and daughter of Warwick founder Stan Radcliffe, is the force behind the famous Bordeaux blend, Trilogy, popularized Cabernet Franc, and was instrumental in launchng the Pinotage society so it is natural that these wines are consistent award winners (though there are other award winning red blends, and Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc as well). Norma’s son Mike Radcliffe, Managing Director, had been instrumental in narrowing the offerings as well as seeing placement in China through various partnerships.

“Welcome,” says winemaker Nic van Aarde upon arrival, bringing us wines to taste. The whites are refreshing and crisp, and the reds … especially the Trilogy, has the kind of elegance and finesse one doesn’t usually find in new world wines. The Estate Reserve (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc) is aged 24 months in French oak, giving it incredible richness. But then again, Stan Ratcliffe purchased the farm in 1964 after an extensive search for the best ‘terroir’ in the Cape and soon discovered that the Cabernet Sauvignon vines produced high quality grapes. The Ratcliffe’s also have fun with some of the names of the brands … think Professor Black, The Black Lady and the notorious Three Cape Ladies.

Beyond the pleasures of the tasting room there is much to do here – one has a choice of several picnic areas, each with different theme, and one can also take a “Big 5 Wine Safari” – an opportunity to take a vineyard tour in our dedicated Land Rover Safari vehicles. This is a genuine 4x4 experience and is not for the faint hearted.
 

Warwick Winery

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“Two wineries being neighborly!”

Glen Carlou and Backsberg are neighboring wineries in Paarl who kindly hosted me for a tasting of both wines, then lunch at Backsberg’s lovely al fresco restaurant.

Let’s call that the spirit of South Africa, yet it is wonderful to see wineries working together to showcase the styles and quality of South African wine.

The visit began in the stylish Backsberg tasting room, where I was greeted by Backsberg representative Harry Haddon and Glen Carlou winemaker Arco Laarmar, who somehow has developed the nickname “The Welder.” Both seemed very effervescent and personable and passionate about South Africa and its wines.

The Backsberg winery has 110 ha under vineyard and additional satellite vineyards in two other areas. The vineyards are located along the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountains, mid way between Paarl and Stellenbosch and 40 minutes from Cape Town.

The Backsberg tasting room is rather whimsical in design … light and airy and down to earth at the same time. As we tasted, a steady stream of visitors popped in and out, buying wines from the winery’s curiously labeled brands (e.g. Tread Lightly by Backsberg anyone?)

At Backsberg you will find wines in various quality levels, with whites including Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and sparklers as well including Viognier. Reds include Merlot, some Rhone varietals, and red blends. They even have a Kosher range (sparkling brut, Chardonnay, Pinotage, Merlot). The premium wine receives a lot of tender loving care with new French oak and up to 12 months on the lees.

You don’t see a lot of Kosher wine in South Africa, but owner Michael Back’s grandfather arrived at the shores of Cape Town as a penniless political and religious refugee from Lithuania. In the fullness of time he became a butcher, then bought the farm that is today Backsberg Estate Cellars. The farm was “mixed use” (produce, grains, as well as wine) with the wine making activities on the farm established by Michael’s father Sydney with the cellars open to the public for the first time in 1970. Michael joined the business in 1976 and focused exclusively on wine, selling off other parts of the business. I didn’t meet Simon Beck, Michael’s son and Marketing Manager, yet with his experience (studying French in Montpellier, vineyard work in California, traveling in China, a a four-year Business Science Economics Degree at the University of Cape Town) it sounds like he will continue the family tradition.

Backsberg has a very cool restaurant, where Harry and Arco took me to lunch. We sat under the trees and enjoyed wines from both Backsberg and Glen Carlou with some really fabulous food. You can read more about the restaurant here. 

Now the first sip I had of wine from Glen Carlou, a few days before the tasting, was at Nobu at the One and Only Hotel on Capetown. It was a Syrah and notable for its dry elegance and balance. You will find various quality levels and varietals here too, with the whites often picked at different sugar levels to keep the acidity high. I quickly become a fan of the Bordeaux blends with its soft juicy tannins, and the Cabernet Sauvignon with its hint of mint and black marble. And of course I love “The Welder,” Arco’s signature sweet late harvest Chenin Blanc.

65 hectares are under vine, and Glen Carlou feels their success is matching the ideal terroir with a specific variety. When you visit, you will find a tasting room and restaurant as well as an art gallery, as the winery is owned by Donald M. Hess, who is a collector and owns many wineries around the world.

Backsberg Winery Website
Glen Carlou Website

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South Africa has more than its fair share of gorgeous tasting rooms – yet visiting Nederburg in Paarl, the fabulous scenery upon arrival, the immaculate cool and refreshing entrance to the tasting room, and the appearance of the fun, friendly, and gregarious cellar master Razvan Macici make this an extra-special visit.

Of course, the fact that Nederburg has earned five-star ratings for three wines in the 2012 edition of Platter’s South African Wine Guide is an important fact to consider even if Razvan was a curmudgeon. In 2011, Nederburg was chosen as Platter’s Winery of the Year, with an unprecedented five wines across the multi-tiered range earning five-star ratings. Then there are numerous awards from Decanter, the International Wine & Spirits Competition, and the International Wine Challenge …

As Razvan guides us around the extensive property (imagine a very large, very pretty college campus on a beautiful spring day) we see an impressive timeline of history, beginning with the ancient manor house. The 49 hectare winery dates back to 1791 by Phillipus Wolvaart. Razvan leads us through the manor house (built in 1800) from that period, which is still used today for tastings. Though the year 1800 seems positively ancient to most people today, the house is actually very livable. In fact, student winemakers do live there during the harvest, and have meals prepared for them by the winery chef! (Perhaps a nice place for a MW student to do a stage, yes?)

As gorgeous as the house is, the winery is incredibly impressive. If you have read the book or have seen the movie Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, you might be able to imagine what seems (or maybe is) thousands and thousands of barrels (various types, sizes, and some large format, wood-cut designed barrels from Germany)and stainless steel tanks, all very neatly organized and arranged. There are rooms for white wine, red wine, and special cuvees. Though one would think Razvan has an army of help, he is supported by two winemakers, Wilhelm Pienaar, who produces the red wines and Tariro Masayiti, who makes the whites.

Speaking of museums, there is one on property, as owner Johann Graue, who took ownership in 1937, established Nederburg as the leading producer of quality South African wines. Graue pioneered the philosophy that a great wine starts in the vineyard and evolves through every step of the winemaking process – a phrase almost every winery uses today, yet was revolutionary at that time of high yields. Graue was also known for introducing cold fermentation, marrying fruit-carrying vines and rootstock, and matching of terroir and varietal.

 Nederburg is also famous for its auction, conceived as a platform for rare and specialty South African and today one of the top four wine auctions internationally, along with Germany’s Kloster Eberbach, France’s Hospice de Beaune and California’s Napa Valley Vintners auction.

After the tour is the tasting (visitors can arrange for tastings here). The wines are all very well balanced and delicious – as a judge for the IWSC myself I can see how it won top prizes. Among the most interesting wines are the Rhone style blends and also the blend of the Italian varietals Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo (Nederburg was the first winery in South Africa to bring them together)

A fabulous place to spend the day visiting the winery and tasting these fabulous wines.

Nederburg Web Site

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