"20 wines!" exclaimed a fellow particpant at today's Master Class tasting of Catalunya wines led by Josep Roca, Co-Proprietor, Sommelier, and Wine Director of the (Catalunya based) Michelin 3-star restaurant El Celler. He was in New York today to lead a Master Class tasting of 20 distinctive wines from Catalunya (all available in the US) including Cava, a white, and mostly reds from the region.

After the Master Class, participants and other trade guests were free to visit the 31 producers and additional wines.

What was most interesting about the Master class was that Mr. Roca introduced each wine, explaining the varietal, the climate, and the style. Before the official tasting, Mr. Roca showed a gorgeous video of his restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca, and the food presentations looked so delcicious I could not wait to visit this fantastic restaurant with a very dedicated wine program and attention to gastronomy.

Images went by fast yet I saw tantalizing images of serious-looking sous chefs doing intriguing things with lobsters, and other techniques associated with molecular gastronomy.

Though I hope to visit next summer, NYC folks had a preview of the restaurant the previous evening at Mercat, a trendy restaurant in Manhattan that has been featured in the New York Times, NY Magazine, and other top publications. The name means "market" in Catalan, language spoken in the Spanish region that inspired this restaurant and tapas lounge.  

Mr. Roca and his chef brother Joan Roca presented a 12 course menu with the help of Mercat chefs, all paired with wines from Catalunya. The menu follows ... and the food and wine pairing in many ways echoed the key points in Josep Roca's Master Class today, as he always talked about appropriate pairings when describing the wines.

November 8, 2011, 6:30 p.m.

EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA IN NEW YORK
Mercat NYC - 45 Bond Street
Wine Presentation by Josep Roca, Co-Proprietor and Wine Director

Oysters on solid champagne with apple compote, gingerbread, cumin, curry, ginger confit
Agustí Torelló i Mata, D.O. Cava

Foie gras timbale with apple and vanilla.
Albert de Vilarnau F. Barrica Brut Nature Gran Reserva, D.O. Cava

Pork feet Carpaccio with oil, diced tomato, roasted hazelnuts
Celler Batlle 2001 Gramona, D.O. Cava

Green beans nest with fresh pear salad and prawns
Xarel-lo Albet i Noya 2010, D.O. Penedès

Sole with flavours of the Mediterranean: fennel, orange, bergamot, pine nuts, green olives.
Gresa Blanc 10. Vinyes d’Olivardots Garnatxa Roja, Garnatxa Gris i Carinyena Blanca, D.O. Empordà

Turbot or sea bass with beans and Arbequina olive oil with toasted pine nuts, rosemary.
Flor de Garnatxa 2008 Garnatxa Blanca Celler la Bollidora, D.O. Terra Alta

Belly of lamb with mint, cumin and parmentier of sheep cheese
Ex Ex 7 Monastrell Castillo de Perelada, D.O. Empordà

Duck Magret (Duck breast) with pomegranates, sweet potatoes, truffles
Pinord +7 2007, D.O. Priorat

Beef filet with five pepper sauce.
1780 Castell del Remei 2005, D.O. Costers del Segre

Loin of deer with venison sauce, cocoa powder and Griottines
Lo Piot 2003 Cesca Vicent, D.O.Q. Priorat

Sweet veal cheek with truffle and mushrooms
Mas La Plana Gran Coronas 1988, D.O. Penedès

Dessert of chocolate with different textures with violet jam and blackberry sorbet
Teresina Piñol Negre 2009, D.O. Terra Alta

.... So a great presentation today by Marnie Old, who gave a talk for Wines from Spain "Great Match" at the Metropolitan Pavillion about Cava.

Marnie is a fabulous presenter whose enthusiasm for Cava came out loud and clear. The tasting room on the 4th floor of the Metropolitan Pavillion was beautifully set-up with well chosen wines.

The most important take-away point from today's presentation addressed the question of "why Cava" over Prosecco or Champagne. The simple reason, according to Marnie, is that Champagne is too expensive for even a seasoned speaker like Marnie to order in a restaurant (and everyone else, too!)

And as for Prosecco, the reasoning was much more profound. In the course of the lecture, people who do not really understand Cava or its tradition and process discovered the blending process of the three traditional grapes (and now allowed international grapes like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), as well as the stringent aging process (9 to 60 months on lees) as well as hand riddling (the shaking process that moves the dead yeast cells to the neck of the bottle).

The careful planting of the correct grape variety planted on the correct soil (and altitude, as I learned from a visit to Freixenet), the careful attention to organic pest control (sexual confusion, again at Freixenet), the careful assemblage of the various grape varieties, and the aging on the lees for as many as four years show how it differs from Prosecco, which is really only one grape albeit grown (according to producer) on specific quality terroir.

Of the nine wines presented I had three favorites:  the Segura Viudas 'Aria' Cava Rosado Reserva with its aroma and flavors of strawberry, gentle mousse, and gorgeous color (made from 100% pinot noir, $18), the Vilarnau 'Brut Nature' from Byass (85% Chardonnay, 15% Parellada NV, $18), and Freixenet 'Elyssia Grand Cuvee' (40% Chardonnay, 30% Macabeo, 20% Parellada, 10% Pinot Noir, $18).

You can read more about the Cava process and my experience at Freixenet here:
 

Ah, Tempranillo ... would this same varietal by any other name taste as sweet? In Toro, the tempranillo grape is called Tinto de Toro. Recently Manual Farina, winemaker and founder of Bodegas Farina in Toro, was in Manhattan to meet with distributors and journalists and talk about his wine.

We met on a very hot night in a very cool new hotel bar, Bar Basque. Manual speaks Spanish and I can understand Spanish -- well, wine Spanish anyway, so we were set. Manual's lovely export Nicola Thornton was there to translate if needed.

First, what's important about Mr. Farina - what makes him more than just another winemaker - is that he was instrumental in creating quality wine in the Toro region. He is a stickler for quality grapes and runs a tight ship as far as winemaking goes, yet there is also something of a poet about him. He is open to experimentation if it will lead to a better wine.

First, a bit of geography. Toro is considered one of Spain’s top three red wine regions and has a continental climate with cold winters and hot summers. It is the second driest region in spain with 3000 hours of sunshine a year. This is enough sun to "bake" the grapes and raise the alcohol levels, yet when its current winemaker/owner Manuel Farina returned to his father’s winery after attending wine schools in Bordeaux and elsewhere, he immediately gave the order to pick grapes three weeks earlier as to avoid high alcohol in the wine and create lower, smoother tannins. At the same time, he gradually lowered the amount of harsh American Oak and oak maturation in general to again create a softer, more balanced wine. Depending on the style of wine, Farina uses varying percentages of New French oak.

What makes the expression of Tempranillo special is also the Toro soil, which is made up of sand and clay, with light sandy well drained top soil and heavier clay soil which preserves water around the roots, with some areas also having small stones. This soil, combined with the difference in temperature between warm days and cool nights, provides perfect growing conditions.

Now let me cut to the chase and talk about my favorite wines of the evening. I am not a "white wine drinker" -- most of the time, I really liked the Dama de Tora Malvasia 2010 D.O. I would drink it alone or with fish. I think the reason I clike it is that it is "old vines" - over 100 years old. Lots of green apples and mineral notes on the nose and a very smooth palate with lively acidity. This wine is 10.99.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, I also liked the Grand Dama de Toro 2006 -- it is Tina de Toro (remember, we can't say tempranillo in this region!) with a small percentage of Garnacha. It is complex and full bodied and delicious. These wines are 80 -90 and 15 months in oak. Though it is "drink now" from a technical standpoint, I'd keep it another decade myself.

I also liked the Dama de Toro Crianza 2005, again a bit of Garnacha, and 8 months in American oak. At just $16.99 compared to the $45 of the Grand Dama, it is a steal.

So today I just got my "new" issue of Drinks Business (it takes way to long for it to come from the UK) and I was delighted to see on page 120 the publication recommended Brane-Cantenac, saying:  "Margaux Second growth Brane-Cantenac may not have the sex appeal of some of its neighborhing cru classes in China, but it does offer increasingly good value for the drinker without a millionaire's budget.

Bought by the Lurton family in 1922, and managed by Henri Lurton since 1992, the estate's wines are constantly high-scoring but it remains one of the cheaspest second growth's on the market. Indeed, the Live-ex aanalysis describes the 2008 and 2006 as 'remarkable value for money under 300 pounds per case.'

The 2005 and 2009 are trading at around 450 pounds each. This compares to a Liv-ex price for a second growth (2000 - 2009) of 740 pounds.

Vibrant Rioja (#riojabuzz) put on a fabulous grand tasting seminar today, with the most fabulous moderator and panelists! NYC's top wine journalists and educators were treated to an exceptionally well orchestrated tasting, that very importantly, included key questions every fine wine writer and sommelier must address:

1. What is going on in terms of modern vs. traditional styles?
2. What are some great ideas for Rioja that sells well by the glass?
3. What is the latest information about the aging requirements?

With just 8 samples, Moderator Marnie Old and panelists Christina Forner (owner, Bodegas Marques de Caceres), Diego Pinilla (winemaker, bodegas Bilbaninas), Rafael Vivanco (winemaker, Bodegas Dinastia Vivanco), and Paul Grieco (co-owner and sommelier, Hearth & Terroir) were able to answer all the above.

What was really great also is the livestreaming of the event, and also the twitter coverage. Participants were able to ask questions, and also a Vibrant Rioja Internet team were able to relay questions from the Internet audience.

Perhaps the best takeaway point is that Rioja is one of the most dynamic regions in Spain -- affordable, quality-oriented, and now adapting to a more modern, earlier drinking style.

If you would like to learn about my personal visits to some Spanish wineries, click here:
 

Luis E. Garcia Sales Executive, and Sandra & Sandra

"So is this a modern style ... or traditional?" I asked Carlos Hubner-Arteta, President of Vinos Libres Wine Merchants, already knowing the answer.

Esperanza Castra, co-owner Grupo Matarromera

I am here at the Graffit restaurant in New York, where the incredibly charming Esperanza Castro, and her husband Carlos Moro, are presenting ten wines from their Grupo Matarromera estate with the protected denomination of origin ranging from Ribera del Duero to Cigales, Toro and Rueda.

We start out with the Verdejo - a straw colored wine with characteristic rich aroma of yellow grapefruit, cleansing and refreshing on the palate, and also try the rose, which is made from Tempranillo with a small percentage of Verdejo. It is crisp and refreshing.

Francisco Romeo, editor of Hombre

The march of red wines began ... first the unoaked Tempranillo, the easy drinking wine, and then more oak aging and complexity. Top wines included the 2005 Matarromera Riserva made from 100% Tempranillo from the finest plotsi n Ribera del Duero, aged for 18 months in French and American oak barrels (80% American, 20% French). This wine was incredibly well balanced with intensive fruit, tempered by oak that served as a "framework" rather than a main ingredient. The oak, fruit, acid, and tannin was all very well integrated.

... and very interesting to note that the King of Spain had Magnums of 95 Riserva served at a state affair in 2004, with celebrated Spanish chef Ferran Adria serving the cuisine.

Noted wine and food journalists from the world's leading publications occupied the seats, and Chef Jesus Nunez prepared sumptuous dishes that paired with the food very well.

Carlos Moro, president and also the winemaker, spoke with passion about his commitment to the environment and about his dedication to the vines. Some notable tidbits from the conversation is that the elevation of Ribera del Duero is much higher than California, thus ensuring ripe grapes with good acidity, and that red wine should be served cooler (55 to 58 F) rather than too warm.

So the big news with Matarromera is that they just opened their newly created subsidiary company, Matarromera USA, to strengthen the company's comittment in the US market.  They are already present in over 50 countries, and hope to be in 80 countries in four years. Soon they will open their subsidiary company in Shanghai, so stay tuned!

Spanish wine is always a favorite, and today journalists and the wine trade were able to tastethe wines of more than 40 Spanish wine producers at the Spanish Wine Cellar & Pantry, an exclusive showcase of up-and-coming wine and food products from Spain. 

As a student in the Master of wine program, I really enjoyed the opportunity to speak to the producers about their methods of production, and also to compare the different styles, and levels of maturity.

Well done!
 

Have you ever wondered about the Mencia grape? The first time I experienced it was at the Cervantes Institute in Manhattan, where wine program creator Helio San Miguel presented a checkerboard of wines made from the Mencia grape to try.

Very interesting …

A Do-It-Yourself and simpler approach is to ask your friendly wine merchang to send you “interesting pairs” of wine, such as those made from the Mencia grape, which are received “blind.”

So from Helio’s presentation, I understood Mencia to be a high-acidity red grape from Galacia, where it rains quite a bit. The two Mencia-based wines I received from my wine merchant are from Ribeira Sacra in Galacia and the classic Bierzo.

Mencia is a “hot” grape right now in Spain, especially as it is a indigenous varietal. Characteristics of the grape are said to be a deep purple/maroon with some transparency, and a medium + nose of deep concentrated black fruit (especially black cherry), mint, and wild herbs like sage.

The wine from Galacia is the Vina do Burato from Ribeira Sacra, The vineyards are planted on the steep slopes of the valleys and canyons of the rivers Miño and Sil. The area acquired official Denominación de Origen status in 1997.
The area is divided into five sub-zones, each with a different micro-climate, but in general all the soils are alluvial over a slate based subsoil.

Winds can be strong. The vineyards are planted on terraces in the narrow valleys of the rivers and have a very concentrated flavor. Small narrow terraces mean that pruning and harvesting must be done by hand, and access is sometimes only possible from the river.

Vina do Burato Ribeira Sacra 2009

color: purple, med- trans, very purple like a darker and more trans pn but nose different
nose: cherry, med+ intensity, fresh berry, very young 2009
palate: dry, acid is med+ I, tannin low, body med- alc est 13, finish is med+ and very tart/juicy

style note: This is a young, vibrant wine from a young vintage with high acidity and very fresh cherry notes. The tart cherry flavor will pair well with pork or salmon. Good structure and finesse.

Note on winemaking: Can be confused with many fresh wines from Italy, though the cherry here is fresher. Production - curious if whole bunch pressed, only old oak, little masceration, fermented a cool temperature.

2008 Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo Pétalos

Color: darker deeper color, fuller bodiy
nose: spice suggesting oak, med+ intensity, not so fresh cherry, but still fresh
palate: dry, acid is med+ tannin is med+ body is med+ alc is 13.e, finish is longer, richer, more substantial than #1 suggesting a year or more older, more oak (or old oak) aging, and this can pair with richer foods

style: A richer style of Bierzo with more rounded flavors, more dimension too indicating better selection of grapes, better located vineyards. This has a lot of xmas spice and texture, complexity - possible due to soil
Mountain soils have quartz and slate, with vineyards planted on humid, dark soil. The low altitude also helps to prevent late frosts.

Comparing the two wines from the Mencia grape, they are the same color, with much of the same aromas, yet the wine from Beirzo has a much earthier and fuller bodied profile. The Ribeira Sacra is a bit higher in acidity, lighter, and a bit smokier. One could easier think they are two different grapes, yet what unites them is the black cherry (fresh, yet not new world fresh) and higher than usual acidity combined with med to med – tannins.
Both wines were very good, and similar in some respects. The ability to identify the grape (key markers: high acidity, deep extraction, various cherry flavors) is key.
 

Care for a Cava? When you reach for a Spanish Sparkler on your supermarket shelf, chances are it’s from Freixenet, given their 200 million bottle production. Did you realize that the family-owned Freixenet sells 160 sparkling and still wine brands worldwide?

Recently, I had the opportunity to travel to Spain to meet CEO Pedro Ferrer to discover more about the company and its goals going forward in 2010.

Ferrer Family History

As in a best-selling novel or glittering television soap opera, the founding of Freixenet goes back to a late 19th century wedding celebration joining two wealthy and prominent Spanish wine families, the Ferrers, owners of La Freixeneda, and the Salas, wine exporters to Latin America.

Rioja – Solar Viejo

Jose Montilla is the winemaker at Solar Viejo in Rioja, which was originally built in the 1970s, and purchased by the Freixenet family in 2004. The very best grapes are sourced from over 35 neighbouring growers who have been growing grapes for Solar Viejo for decades.

Rioja first became a Denominacion de Origen in 1925, and in 1991 was named a Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOC). The region stretches 75 miles along the Ebro River in Northern Spain and is divided into three growing regions, each bringing fruit with its own unique characteristic.

The higher altitude regions to the north, Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, have moderate weather and some moisture, while Rioja Baja to the east experiences hot, dry weather. Most of the grapes used in Solar Viejo are sourced from Alavesa, which is higher in altitude with lower levels of rainfall, and are said to make the best wine.

Ribera del Duero – Valdubon

Winemaker Javier Aladro is proud to show off this winery and explain the soil (clay and sand) of the vineyards that stretch from the famed Duero river to upland slopes and benchland above the river. The climate is quite harsh, with cold winters and late spring frosts that can devastate the vines.

And despite the intense summer heat, the altitude of the vineyards (1,700 - 2,400 feet) create the kind of very cool night time temperatures that helps the grapes maintain a good acid-sugar balance (the diurnal effect) that sets the tone for excellent wines.

Priorat - Morlanda & Fra Guerau wineries

Judit Llop is the young winemaker for both brands in the Spanish DOC of Priorat. Here the winery is modern, built in 1997, yet the vineyards that surround it are much older. Much of the fruit comes from select hillside vineyards with vines between 25 - 40 years old, and some almost 80 years. The elevation here is between 550 - 700 feet, with the winery’s name taken from the name of the highest hill in the area. Yields are low, with the estate producing about 3,300 cases annually.

Freixenet and Segura Viudas

Freixenet acquired Segura Viudas, a rival Cava company, some time ago, with the grape reception area located on the Segura Viudas property. My visit coincides with the harvest, and it is interesting to note the dozens, even hundreds, of trucks that arrive filled with grapes. The grapes are measured for sugar, various acids, and other key points in a sample taken by a robotic arm, with a print out of the results available within seconds.

Grapes are crushed here, with fermentation taking place at Freixenet, notable throughout the world for its yeast collection. Native yeasts are taken from the property and cultured in the in-house laboratory to ensure a correct fermentation.

The Future

Freixenet winemakers are passionate, intelligent, and seemingly very grateful to be given the opportunity to make wine at such a young age for one of the biggest winemaking companies in the world.

The wineries are still young, yet the brands are slowly developing brand recognition.

Today many players are getting involved in finding and revitalizing wineries, yet it is uncertain if they can match the attention to detail I saw with Freixenet.
 

Hard to believe, yet the holidays are almost here!

Soon, you'll be walking into your supermarket or wine store for a celebratory sparkler and reach for the familiar "Freixenet" name, knowing the name spells "quality" that will be recognized by your family and friends.  After all, the winery and many of its other sparklers such as the signature Freixenet Cordon Negro Cava have been around for over a hundred years.

Yet did you realize that the winery, after all this time and a 200 million bottle production, is still family owned, and that the Ferrer family sells more than 160 sparkling and still wine brands worldwide?

Recently, I had the opportunity to travel to Spain to meet the Ferrer family CEO Pedro Ferrer to discover more about the company and its goals going forward in 2010.

Ferrer Family History

Like a best-selling novel or glittering television soap opera, Freixenet was founded in a late 19th century wedding celebration by two wealthy and prominent Spanish wine families, the Ferrers, owners of La Freixeneda, and the Salas, wine exporters to Latin America. 



Pedro Ferrer Bosch and Delores Salas Vive built Freixenet into a brand during the first decades of the last century, first giving the wine “personality” by the red-capped boy with a Cava bottle under his arm, and then large-scale promotional items like the Freixenet bottle car created for the 1929 World Fair in Barcelona. 



At the Freixenet winery, you can see the car as well as various family portraits from the 19th century. And as I looked at the image of Jose and Delores, so formal in their elegant attire, I wonder what they would think if they could see their grandson today and his incredible success. For in addition to buying wineries in prestigious Spanish regions, Friexenet was one of the first Spanish companies to completely embrace the international marketplace long before Spain became part of the European Union.

Old World Concepts, New World Success

Freixenet launched the Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards in California’s Sonoma Carneros region in the 1980s, and iis exploring more opportunities outside Spain.

Yet within Spain, the company is focusing on finding  and buying wineries with extraordinary terrior, such as the classic regions of Rioja and Ribera del Duero.

I was fortunate enough to visit these properties, meet with the winemakers, and literally taste the fruit of their extensive labor.

In the links below, you can find my impressions and hopefully, share my excitement about the opportunity Freixenet is giving to the young, passionate winemakers who are working so intensely to produce quality wine from this terrior.
 
The Freixenet Story

A Visit to Segura Viudas with Vineyard Manager Sebastia Raventos Pascual

A Visit to Solar Viejo with Jose Montilla

Visiting Vaulderbon Winery win Ribera del Duero with Javiar Aladro

Visiting Moranda Winery with Judit Llop