The 2010 Finger Lakes harvest was the warmest growing season in nearly forty years and the wettest since 1973, resulting in a good vintage overall yet a varied style with a general slant toward lower acid, intense fruit, and ripeness.

Riesling grows well in the cool climate and varied soils of the Finger Lakes as the sloping topography creates a macro climate protecting vines from the region's typical cold winters, while warding off the high humid levels found in other non-arid wine regions.

Between the lakes, varying meso and micro climates create Rieslings with diversity and range.

A "Tweet up" of these wines took place on September 22, 2011 and here are some tasting notes. The Rieslings mostly retail for under $20 a bottle and pair especially well with spicy food.

Glenora 'Dry' Riesling 2010

Exotic tropical and citrus fruit flavors, crisip acidity, and clean finish with a hint of sweetness. Off dry with 14 g/l Residual Sugar.

Hunt Country Vineyards Dry Riesling 2010

Green apple flavors, floral notes, and a long clean finish. Dry with 4 g/l of residual sugar.

Keuka Lake Vineyards Dry Riesling 2010

Very balanced, crisp and clean riesling with mineral notes. Dry with 7 g/l residual sugar.

Lakewood Vineyards Dry Riesling 2010

Rich and assertive with a residual sugar of 8 grams per litre that is just under the legal definition of "dry." Full flavored.

Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars semi Dry Riesling 2010

This is the first officially semi dry wine tasted, with 27 grams of sugar per litre. It is rich and full flavored with concentrated fruit with a mouthfeel of apple, peach, and mandarin oranges and zesty fruit finish.

Keuka Spring Vineyards Riesling Finger Lakes 2010

This is an off dry yet refreshing riesling with floral, lime, citrus and a refreshingly smooth finish. Residual sugar is slightly over 11 grams per litre.

Do you live in NYC?

... and do you know that just an hour away you can enjoy a NY wine experience with Hudson Valley wines?

Today some lucky members of Manhattan's Wine Media Guild visited the region and met the following winemakers
 
Michael Migliore – Whitecliff Vineyard
Cesar Baeza – Brotherhood Winery
Matt Spaccarelli – Benmarl Winery
Carlo DeVito – Hudson-Chatham Winery
John Bruno – Oak Summit
John Graziano – Millbrook
Karen Gardy – Brookview Station
Phyllis Feder – Clinton Vineyards

All winemakers participated in the planning/expense of the trip, yet Matt Spaccarelli, pictured above, acted as host -- he picked up half of our members in NYC, and the event (due to rains) was held at his winery.

As we drove, Matt revealed a bit about how his family got started in the wine business ... they had been in construction and his father bought the winery in 2006. Matt was in college at the time (he had the world's record at Fordham U for the decathlon) and after graduation put his efforts into becoming the winemaker and, from his expert handling of the event, key marketing person.

As a group, these were all small producers. 300 cases a year seems fairly typical. They all have a passion for winemaking. 

Phylis Feder of Clinton Vineyards had great sparkling wines and sparkling stories of her early New York adventures. Cesar Baeza of Brotherhood, also a producer of a sparkling wine, exuded charm and reminded our group that Brotherhood was making "champagne" (they are allowed to say this on the label) since before California was part of the United States! Brotherhood was established in 1860,

Overall, the wines of these producers were well balanced, and while the whites were crisp and refreshing, I preferred the Pinot Noirs and Merlots. Many of the wines showcased today won competitions, and a few are on the list at Gramercy Tavern.

And thanks to Matthew Scott (owner of the Pampered Cow and Twin Maple Farm) for the cheese!

"This Gone Fishin wine label is great!" said a guest at a recent lunch at Tribeca Grill in Manhattan, organized to showcase the wines -- and the savvy winemaker - of Mercer Estates in Washington, David Forsyth.

I had first heard of Mercer Estates a few years back, when Washington State wines were just coming into vogue and wine journalists of Gotham wanted to know more about the wines.

Since then, Washington State has been been sending wines and their winemakers to New York on an annual basis for tastings, yet rarely (never?) did I have an opportunity to sit down and taste with a winemaker.

First, I should explain the interest in the "Gone Fishin" label as it is part of the Mercer Estates family of wines, but its own brand (called Wine Out West). It honors the pioneering history of the Mercer Estates famalies, who settled in the Columbia Valley's Horse Heaven Hills in 1886.

The labels are whimsical and designed by the original art of Diane Whitehead, a native of eastern Washington. Yet more important than the colorful bottles (which will attract the millennial eye) are the elegant yet easy drinking and affordable wines inside. During the lunch we tried the Riesling 2010  which was dry, crisp, and well balanced, with only 1.8 grams of residual sugar. It had a good finish with peach fruit and floral accents.

Mercer Estates wines sampled at lunch included the Pinot Gris (one of the best selling wines in Washington), the Merlot (absolutely my favorite of the Mercer Estates wines with its mouth filling, rich flavor, incredible balance, and pure elegance of fruit) and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Winemaker David Forsyth grew up in the Columbia Valley and spent twenty-three years making wine and building The Hogue Cellars before taking over winemaking responsibilities at Mercer Estates. During lunch he spoke about his  “vineyard-centric approach." 

For example, with a production of 25,000 cases the winery uses 70% of their own grapes and needs to engage other grape growers for the balance. He works closely with individual vineyard managers to elevate their sites and let the grapes achieve a natural expression of terroir reinforced by a "non-interventionist" philosophy of winemaking.

To illustrate that, I asked him about canopy management (the way the leaves are arranged around the grapes). He explained that it is important to shield the grapes not just because of over-ripeness, yet also color because the right color of the skins are so important for the grapes.

 It was fabulous to taste David's wines and learn about his winemaking practices ... you will here more about him soon!  

Mercer Estates Website

"Roasting a barrel is like roasting coffee," says colorfully-spoken winemaker and GM of Bouchaine Vineyards, Michael Richmond. We are talking about the influence of French oak on the 2008 Pinot Noir, and as is the case when wine geeks get together, the conversation turns to toast (not the kind you have at breakfast) and the importance of being on the same page with your cooperage.

We are actually at Daniel Boulud's DB Bistro on a sunny June day, and Michael is here to talk about the winery's excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Bouchaine is the oldest continuously operated winery in the Carneros district, with roots going back before Prohibition.

I taste three vintages of Chardonnay (09, 08, 07) and am struck by the Meursault character of the 07 - it is very Burgundian with melted butter on the nose, and incredible elegance. Michael explains that the wines have some percentage - often half - of malolactic fermentation, depending on the vintage. There is 30% new French oak here, yet it blends seamlessly with the wine.

The Pinot Noirs (08, 07) are fabulous and very different because of the vintage. The 07 is more delicate, and perhaps for this reason the enticing sweet French oak on the nose (just 30%) is easier to detect than the 08, which has more substantial fruit and the same oak program.

The surprise at the end of the tasting is the sweet wine, made by Chardonnay grapes in a year with botrytis. Yet Michael realized that he didn't need botrytis to make the wine -- just leaving grapes to hang longer in autumn was enough to create this delicious sweet wine, with very balanced sugar and alcohol and delightful honeyed flavors.

I will keep you up to date with Bouchaine as i am a fan of their wine, which is very elegant and old world in style
 

Last Thursday it was very exciting to meet Elizabeth Marston and her husband Jamie, who with Elizabeth's parents run Marston Family Vineyard in the Napa Valley. Of course, with Auction Napa Valley 2011 (# ANV11) beginning this coming June 2, 2011 -- and the e-auction already underway it was a great opportunity to taste some wine up for bidding while we are still in New York.

Elizabeth and Jamie are passionate about wine and very vivacious and exciting individuals, and this passion comes out in the wine served at the dinner. Elizabeth had the brilliant idea of having dinner served in the "open kitchen" where we could see Executive Chef Kevin Lasko (below) and his team prepare our incredible multi-course dinner,

Kevin Lasko

Seated around the table were long time fans of Marston Family Vineyards, who had fabulous stories to share about their experiences with the Marstons. One couple told us that they first met Elizabeth and Jamie when they made an appointment to see the estate, and the couple spent the entire day with them, taking them on a tour of the vineyard and then enjoying a wine tasting as the sun set.

The family purchased the land in the sixties and sold fruit to other wineries as growers, and then realized that they should be making wine themselves. During dinner, we enjoyed the Albion Blanc 2009, a delicious wine made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes that went perfectly with a "surprise" scampi dish chef Lasko prepared, as well as the smoked salmon and Bucatini with wasabi caviar and creme fraiche.

The next course, baby beets with bacon and pistachio pesto was served with the Marston Family Cabernet 2003, a very rich and luscious wine.

If this wasn't enough food, Grilled Filet Mignon with morel stuffing and asparagus followed, with Marston Family Cabernet 2007, which everyone at the table though was the most spectacular wine of the evening.

And finally, pastry chef Richard Leach's "Chocolate Cube" which was quite possibly the most luscious dessert in memory.

These Marston Family Wines are elegant, rich, and as you can see from the more technical post and pictures here, are grown on what could be the most incredible soil in the Napa Valley.

Lots of fun AND wine at the #ANV2011, and hope you can check out the Marston Family winery on your next visit.

"All I wanted was an almond croissant," says winemaker and co-woner Les Behrens of Erna Schein winery (formerly known as Behrens & Hitchcock). Les is talking about the fateful day in 1996 when he and wife and winery co-owner Lisa Drinkward drove to Los Angeles and had the fortuitous idea of dropping a bottle of their wine off at La Brea Bakery in the hopes that Nancy Silverton or her partner Manfred Krankl (winemaker at Sin Qua Non) would like it and put it on their list.

As it happened, Manfred liked it very much indeed, as did another 'drop-off' to the Oakville Grocery store in Oakville, and the combination of these two high-profile venues quickly put the wine on the map, ultimately attracting high scores from respected critics Robert Parker and Stephen Tanzer.

Les didn't start out wanting to b a winemaker - he wanted to be an artist, but in his words, 'didn't have that talent.' He and LIsa opened a restaurant in Humboldt, CA called Folie Douce Restaurant, where Les created the wine list and became interested in the production of wine while Lisa ran the kitchen.
 
Shortly afterward, they joined forces with their business partners the Hitchcocks to create Behrens & Hitchcock. Though Les didn't have formal experience as a winemaker, he 'asked a lot of questions." Now that the Hitchcocks retired, are focusing on their own new brand, Erna Schein.

I am very excited to meet Lisa and Les, and view the Erna Schein winery as one of the hospitality events during the Auction Napa Valley 2011(#ANV11),  

Below is a description of the event:

Spring Mountain Cookout

Join us for an evening of fun, food and revelry high atop Spring Mountain! Owners Les Behrens and Lisa Drinkward will host and, along with our intimate winery crew, prepare a festive meal of open-fire, elevated-campout fare, perfectly paired with a selection of our current and past releases. Play a game of badminton or horseshoes, enjoy songs and s'mores around the campfire, or just relax with a glass of wine and enjoy our beautiful view of the Napa Valley.

You can still register to attend the auction and one of the available hospitality events here:

Can't get to napa? You can register for the e-auction here

So you know all about the e-auction that opens May 29, 2011 in alignment with the Auction Napa Valley 2011, yes? I am spotlighting certain producers and interesting lots that every wine lover (and supporter of the Napa Valley's charities) should know about.

Today the focus is on Signorello Estates ... a premium winery in the Napa Valley that makes limited quantities of premium varietals that blend classic French wine making characterstics with California fruit. The winery focuses on elegace, balance, and depth ...

I am very excited to see the property during the Napa Valley auction, especially since the pictures -- and the description of the terroir and winemaking -- on the web site are so enticing.  Chardonnay is barrel fermented and the reds undergo extended masceration periods (25 - 35 days) to allow for a more natural balance of fruit and tannins, then pumped over at least twice a day.

Ray Signorello Jr, proprietor/winemaker, has been working the winery for 23 years, and comprises a team along with Luc Morlet (consultant winemaker) and Pierre Birebent (winemaker/vineyard manager). He told me that his family bought the virgin ground in 1977, taken with the soils and the views from the property, and are dedicated to making the best wine possible.

The critics love the wines ... incredible Parker ratings! 

Below is their offering for the Napa e-auction.

Signorello Lot #413

16 bottles of Napa Valley wine, as noted
Dinner for 6
Blending session for 6
Cooking class for 6
1 beef roast

Make your dream of becoming a world-class winemaker and master chef a reality. Mentorship reaches new heights with a two-day internship in Napa Valley for up to three couples at Signorello Estate.

The winning bidder will be trained by Signorello Estate's world-renowned winemakers, Luc Morlet and Pierre Birebent, to blend your very own specially bottled case of Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from fruit on Signorello Estate's rocky hillsides above Silverado Trail.

When the work in the cellar is done, don the toque and train to become a master chef under the guidance of Signorello Estate Executive Chef Michael McMillan, featuring Snake River Farms American-style Kobe Wagyu beef, in the indoor and outdoor Kitchens at Signorello Estate. Then enjoy the fruits of your labor with a private dinner for six on Terrazo del Padrone, our outdoor patio overlooking the vineyards, paired with specially selected wines from Signorello Estate.

The package would not be complete without a rare vertical (2004-2007) of specially etched 3L bottles of our signature wine, Padrone, to take home with you. When you get home, receive a specially selected Snake River Farms Kobe Wagyu ribeye roast to enjoy with the wine.

Blending session, cooking class and dinner to be scheduled on a mutually agreeable date before June 2012.

Cabernet Sauvignon
Padrone
Napa Valley
1 - 3L 2004
1 - 3L 2005
1 - 3L 2006
1 - 3L 2007
Bidder's Blend
12 - 750ml TBD

Some people like the excitement and energy of a live auction ... others prefer to relax in the comfort of their own (international!) homes.

Yes, the Napa Valley Auction is now also electronic ... starting May 29, 2011 wine lovers around the globe can bid on and win lots.  There are lots of fun combinations of wine and fun (in the form of travel, entertainment) that you can read about here

On that page, you will find a page of Lots, such as Lot #302 which is Amici Cellars ... which includes 14 bottles of wine, a vineyard tour, barrel tasting, and gourmet lunch for four.

The great thing about the Napa Valley is the winery families are so generous ... they really love inviting their fans to dinner, engaging a celebrity chef, and bringing out the wines from their library.

I've been the guest of many such families over the years ... and right now, on hand, I have interviews with a few of them ...

Click here for David Cakebread of Cakebread Cellars
Click here for Shirley Roy of Roy Estates
Click here for Shirley Krausz of Arkenstone
 

Look at the incredible aerial view of Marston Family Vineyard above ... even so far away, one gets an incredible sense of the soil that produces such incredible Cabernet Sauvignon.

Marston Family Vineyard was first planted in the late 1890’s on the southern slopes of Spring Mountain, just west of St. Helena. The vineyard is part of the appellation known as the Spring Mountain District. The vineyards comprise about 10 percent of the 400 acres of heavily wooded land.

Though it's often difficult to buy this wine, here's some good news! You can attend the Napa Valley Wine Auction the week of June 2 - 5 (Lot 19) and purchase the wine for charity (and a lot of fun extras) in person ...

... or if you can't get to Napa, starting May 29 2011 you can bid online (just click here)

SInce I'm in NYC, I am so luck as I can go to my favorite Park Avenue Spring restaurant and have three vintages of Cabernet from their family cellar paired with four courses of chef Kevin Lasko's cuisine!

Date: May 26 2011 at Park Avenue Spring (call 212 644 1900 for more info)

Now, more about Marston Family Vineyard ...

The vines planted are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. During the growing season, the terraced hillsides, which range in elevation from 700 to 1,100 feet, benefit from cool afternoon breezes and daytime temperatures that are as much as ten degrees cooler than the lower elevations of the Napa Valley. The vineyard is situated above the fog line, resulting in extended hours of sunlight. The additional sunshine coupled with the lower temperatures allow the fruit to ripen more slowly and uniformly, which ultimately enhances the wine’s concentration, complexity and texture. Furthermore, the rocky, mountain soils limit the vigor of the vines. As a consequence the clusters and the individual berries are smaller, which dramatically reduces overall yields. These diminished crop levels intensify the character of the wine. There is an old belief attributed to the French that grape vines are like people in that they need to suffer a little in order to develop character.

Michael Marston has donated 240 acres of Marston Family
Vineyard ranch to Forever Wild Conservation easement.
 

What a fabulous experience being at Hospice du Rhone 2011 (#HdR2011). It was so nice to see winemakers we met in the Rhone Valley during "Discover Rhone" and meet new winemaker friends from Paso Robles, Australia, and Rhone style wine producers all around California.

Thanks to the team at Hospices du Rhone and all the sponsors for making this so great. Stay tuned for auction results in this post. Above is a picture of happy people digging into an old fashioned BBQ after the Grand Tasting!