Fabulous evening with Bob Pepi, wine consultant and founder of the Eponymous brand of California Reds. Bob's father bought land in Napa in 1966, grew grapes, and acquired some of the best vineyards in the Napa Valley. Wine Spectator called Bob's first Cabernet Sauvignon "a Cellar Selection."

Eventually his family sold to Kendall-Jackson in 1994 and Bob began to lease vineyards/buy grapes and put his wines up for various competitions.

In 1991, Bob became general manager for the California operations of Stimson Lane, again producing award-winning wines, including a Cabernet-based Conn Creek  wine that received the highest Wine Spectator ratings of any Stimson Lane label to that prized consultant.  With over 40 harvests under his belt, and considerable wine business

Today Bob is the founder of Eponymous wines, all reds, which are exceptionally well balanced and delicious. At a food and wine pairing dinner tonight we experienced the wines with may different types of food. Some preferred the very elegant Syrah with steak, others the Petite Syrah or Full-bodied Chardonnay with pasta.

As a winemaker, Bob also make two whites, Two Angles Sauvignon Blanc and Angel's "Secret Carneros Chardonnay" -- a bright rich fruit forward style for both.

The reds, I sense, he really puts his energy into: the Cabernet Franc was pulsating with vivacity, the Cabernet cleanly structured, and the Petite Sirah concentrated with black ruit -- all is well. I also liked the Syrah and the 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. with their ripe, meaty flavors.

Fabulous introduction into Mr. Pepi's excellent winemaking skills!

Have you had Israeli wine before? A few years back, several producers came to the US and I was overwhelmed by how delicious all the wines were. I was happy to just make the tail end of Victor Schoenfeld's visit to NYC. He is cheif winemaker for the Golan Heights winery in the Golan Heights.

Now this is a relatively new region producing quality wines, among them Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Syrah,  Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and "Yarden Rom" which is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot (percentages depending on the vintage), aged in French oak barrels for roughly 21 months and bottled without filtration. The 2006 is sold in a limkited edition of 6000 bottles and sells for $160 -- quality well worth it.

These were excellent wines ... very balanced, plus, and delicius.

"So how does it feel to be a winemaker ... and given special attention because of your sex? Or because of color ..." I  asked Ntsiki Biyela: South Africa Woman Winemaker of the Year. As I tasted through her wines, very impressed at the complexity of flavor and well balanced structure, I couldn't help but wonder if she was appreciative of the extra attention (that came along with awards and global media appearances, including CNN hours ago).

If I understood Ms. Biyela correctly, it was all part of the territory.

Ms.Biyela is here to promote her Stellekaya winery, whose wines are featured in select wine shops and South African wine bars here in New York, and also take part in the S. African wine tasting Tuesday. The name “STELLEKAYA” is a fusion of Latin and African words and means “Home of the Stars”. The owners have chosen to link the branding to astronomy and more specifically some of the 48 original constellations charted by Ptolemy.

Tonight's tasting was held at Sojourn, a trendy S. African restaurant here in New York. I had quickly skimmed reviews before zipping off, and most reviewers spoke of the incredible S. African wine list, great food, and "sexy ambiance." I didn't know quite what that meant but perhaps the red partition after the door had something to do with it. Or the candlelight. Or the fun "open seating" environment that set the stage for Ms. Biyela's wine dinner -- her wines would be accompanying a set menu created by SoJourn proprieter Stanton Du Toit.

Very cleverly, the three first wines were brought out on a wooden device, with little business sized cards propped up before each glass to explain the name and the composition. Blends are big with Ms. Biyela ... Hercules 06 was first, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. In Tuscany this would be called a 'super Tuscan' and not sure if it has a name in S. Africa, yet it was delicious, quite full bodied and complex. The middle wine was a single varietal Cabernet Sauvignon 05, ripe and succulent with notes of black current. Then on the extreme right was a Cape Cross 04, a very unique wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinotage (the cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault). This was one of the evening favorites until the main course wine of Orion, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It was delicious and complex with bright notes of red fruit and deeper undertones. It was ready to drink now, yet seemed as if it could age ten more years.

Cuisine at Sojourn is fabulous -- and the wines from S. Africa are extremely well crafted. Perhaps the challenge for S. Africa is that fine winemakers are producing quality wines, yet awareness of these wines needs to be created. 

Stellekaya vineyards are situated on well drained slopes of decomposing sandstone and rich clays. Many of these
vineyards overlook False Bay with important sea breezes to lower to temperature. Production is made using the traditional “pigeage” /punch down method in open fermenters - punching down produces less aggressive tannins than pumping over. The fruit is cooled on arrival and a cold maceration is applied to ensure that the fruit
flavours are captured prior to fermentation taking place. The wines are pressed using a wooden basket press following by 100% maturation in French Oak Barriques specially chosen and designed to reduce the sense of aggressive tannins.

Indeed during dinner I remarked on how ready to drink these wines were, even though they were balanced enough to age for ten years. This quality might be responsible for the somewhat high mid-30's price -- French oak barriques and the care that is needed for good selection is quite expensive. Yet the wines are doing very well in Manhattan wine bars and wine shops. And according to the owners, Stellekaya is about producing a “hand made” wine in limited
quantity that will be appreciated by a small audience of discerning consumers who favour quality and character over price.

You can read more about Stellekaya wines here ...

Eric Titus

Tonight I had dinner with Eric Titus of Titus Vineyards in the Napa Valley and talked about his Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Sauvignon Blanc while tasting through several flights. The dinner was held at the illustrious Jean-George Vongerichten restaurant Perry Street, which is very hip and cool (think white on white theme, with floor to ceiling windows looking out to the river, white sofas, white chairs, white tables, very clean and flavorful cuisine ....) 

For wine journalists, it is always fun to meet the maker of the wines, instead of just tasting it. One could say it is almost like the ability to meet with a long gone author or musician, and understand more about the foundation of their book or music via the force of their personality.

Eric is very forthcoming and honest, much like his wines. He went to high school in St Helena in the Napa Valley, along with other children of wine makers (his parents bought the vineyard in 1969 and sold their grapes) and also the children of people who serviced the vineyard. When he said he worked the vineyards during summers and after school, I had to ask if it was a passion or a work ethic instilled by his parents. I'm sure you can guess the answer, as Eric pursued studies in marine biology over a curriculum in viticulture and enology. He earned his doctorate in biology and embarked on a ten-year career in marine biological research and environmental consulting. After working in such varied locations as Honolulu, Baltimore and San Francisco, and Guam he returned to St. Helena during the heralded 1997 vintage. With the Titus Vineyards wine production steadily increasing and the vineyards in need of redevelopment, Eric came to work full-time for the family wine business. He now divides his time between managing vineyard operations and the overseeing the business side of the winery.

Now the Sauvignon Blanc is a fabulous wine, with an aroma of grapefruit pith and palate of the same. I found it far weightier than other Sauvignon Blancs, with very good expression of the terrior and the ability to match slightly heavier foods such as slow cooked Branzino. I adored the Cabernet Franc -- the absolute expression of everything a Cab Franc should be, which to me is (taste-wise) akin to the pleasure of stomping on the first fall leaves on the ground on a crisp day. Really fantastic nose on  this wine, great expression and complexity, and a flag waving signature that yes, Cab Franc can be made and made well in the Napa Valley. The Cabernet Sauvignon was powerful, very rich and concentrated and extracted. Try this one with a grilled juicy steak.

Since one of the houses on the property was built in 1910 and it is 48 hours before Halloween, I had to ask the question:  Has he experienced any ghosts? Eric says no, yet mentions that several workers living in the house have experenced a certain energy. Lately, though, Eric tells me, the energy has become incresingly positive, as the entity -- if indeed there is one -- is vibrating to the creativity and success of Titus Vineyards. "

Looking for a delicious, affordable, and trendy new grape varietal to dazzle your friends at impromptu wine tastings? Look no further than Cabernet Franc, an all too frequently overlooked varietal that pairs well with a wide variety of winter-themed cuisine.

As an accomplished or aspiring wine geek, you may already know that Cabernet Franc is one of the five red grape varietals that make up a Bordeaux Blend. However, in nearby Chinon and Bourgueil, as well as Anjou-Saumur and Touraine, wine is made using this grape alone. Producers in Canada are using the varietal to make sweet ice wine, and in the North Fork of New York, many producers are creating seductively good dry table wine from this varietal as well.

So why Cabernet Franc? Why now? Let us start with the season. As a self-described CF fan I will drink this wine all year round, careful to serve it slightly chilled in summer as the French locals do. Yet the rich, ripe, red-fruit oriented flavors in this wine warm the soul during the cooler months and pair well with winter dishes such as lamb stew. In flavor, the wine is not as tannic as Cabernet Sauvignon and offers some spice on the nose and palate, mostly from long oak aging (especially in France).

Beyond taste, this wine is usually a good value, particularly in France where small, quality producers take a great deal of pride in turning out nicely-crafted wines that typically sell for around $15 a bottle. If you love high-end, fine dining restaurants, you can usually find a delicious bargain with a Cabernet Franc.

As a member of Manhattan's prestigious Wine Media Guild, I've recently had an opportunity to taste this varietal from many regions during our monthly luncheon with cuisine paired under the direction of celebrity chef Lydia Bastianich at her Felidia restaurant in New York. Speakers included author/importer Richard Johnson, Wolffer Estate winemaker Roman Roth, and charismatic Paul Grieco, co-owner and sommelier of the restaurants Hearth, Insieme, and Terroir.

Among the many wines was one of my go-to favorites, Famille Grosbois Chinon Vielle Vigne 2007 (importer Martin Scott Wines) that sells for $17. I also enjoyed the Chateau de Coulaine "Bonnaventure" 2006 ($23, importer Skurnik). Both are exceptionally well balanced and characterized by lush red and black fruit and balanced spice. Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon 2005 Picasses (importer V0S) was quite extracted and had an unexpected finish of bitter chocolate. Chateau de Vaugaudry offered a Plessis-Gerbault 2003 Chinon that was substantial and full-bodied enough to stand up to grilled steak (Frank Johnson Selections, $20).

I very much liked the USA wines, especially the Schneider Vineyards Cabernet Franc La Cloche 2005, which sells for $60 (Schneider Selections). The flavors were exceptionally balanced, delicate, and well crafted. The Wolffer Estate Vineyards Caya Caberet Franc 2005 ($40, importer Winebow) was just delectable; red, jammy, medium-bodied, and versatile enough to go with everything from lamb to a composed summer salad.

Felidia's team put together a great multi-course lunch with an entrée of meat pie and delicious pasta dish of risotto in a gorgeous purple beet sauce. What surprised and delighted me most was the salad of briefly braised radicchio and endive with thin apple slivers and blue cheese that went surprisingly well with the Cabernet Franc.

If you would like to experience the world of Cabernet Franc, I suggest you befriend a local wine store and ask the clerk to find you samples of this varietal from various regions in France and the USA to compare their styles. Either way, I'm sure y ou will find this charming wine fresh, affordable, enchanting, and versatile to sip every day.

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So! Now that the official article is posted, here are some behind the scenes pics. Regular readers, I would love for you to email me and tell me if you like the pics, or if you just do the RSS or ATOM thing and speed read the copy on your blackberry.

The WMG lunch begins as always with members tasting the wines the distributors and/or producers were generous enough to provide. Here are pics of Lydia Bastianich, who hosts our lunch in her restaurant, posing with members and with me. What is amazing about her, aside from her culinary skills and media friendly personality, is the elegant way she dresses and composes herself. Below Lydia is flanked by Peter M.F. Sichel and Louisa Thomas Hargrave in the group picture.
   

As you can imagine, we have a lot of fun during our seated, multi-course lunch. Here is a typical "grab across the table."

And finally, a pic of two of our three speakers. Typically we have at least one speaker
and the pic below represents member Frank Johnson, an importer who is also a member (wearing a tie and jacket), and speake Paul Grieco, described as a co-restaurant owner and sommelier of those restaurants.