Kanonkop … I had never quite understood the name until I visited this winery in South Africa and saw the giant cannon near the entrance. It turns out that in the 17th century (yes, “new world” wines can be that old!) the cannon would be fired when farmers on hills saw ships pulling into the port at Cape Town to buy supplies for their next voyage.

The visual makes the name of the wine easier to remember, especially since the winery is famed for its award winning Pinotage.

First, let’s set the geography – Kanonkop is located between Stellenbosch and Paarl on the R44 and falls in a ward called Simonsberg, more commonly known as the “red wine bowl” of South Africa. It has earned a reputation both at home and abroad as an area producing the best wines in the country.

I was also very excited to see this winery because It was my first introduction to South African wine, due to the kindness of winemaker Abrie Beeslaar, a Stellenbosch BSc graduate in vini- and viticulture, who joined Kanonkop in 2002.

Three years ago Abrie was generous enough to answer the technical questions of a would-be Master of Wine student (yes, myself!) for my application paper. Kanonkop was the only Pinotage available at my Manhattan wine store, and had been highly recommended by a clerk. Thanks to Abrie, I am officially a MW student. A few years later I was able to meet him in person when Wines of South Africa came to New York.

During my visit, however, it was gracious, personable propietor Johann Krige who greeted me, a vivacious and charming individual who is the fourth generation to own the property, and works on the marketing, financial and personnel front. He is a world traveler and while he does not have the photographs scattered about to prove it (at least that I saw!) I'm sure he's dined with presidents and heads of states and even movie stars. Kanonkop is just that well known and prestigious.

Kanonkop was originally purchased by JW Sauer, a cabinet member in the parliament of the Union of South Africa. His son Paul Oliver Sauer, also a cabinet minister, took over the reins from his father and in 1968 was joined by Springbok rugby great Jan “Boland” Coetzee. Sauer's daughter inherited the estate, and married Jannie Krige, a rugby administrator at the University of Stellenbosch, so today Johann and his brother Paul are at the helm.

Johann gave me a tour that began in the bright, gorgeously designed tasting room that was buzzing with tourists and locals eager to buy and try wine. There is artwork on the walls, and a well-trained staff to pour and make suggestions. The tasting room was newly redesigned, partly to keep up with S. Africa’s new reputation as a holiday destination for wine tourism.

As Johann led the way to the winery, I learned that to ensure Kanonkop remains at the forefront of technology, the production cellar has been upgraded, the number of small barrels increased significantly to extend wood maturation potential and the laboratory refurbished and updated with state of the art equipment including new heating and cooling systems. New hand-sorting tables have been incorporated into the grape reception area to ensure only the best grapes are used.

Finally we arrived at my very favorite area of the winery, the “secret” tasting room, an ancient looking brick space where one must step down carefully into a rectangular room with a gorgeous long wooden table and hundreds, if not thousands, of bottles of library wine. Some bottles looked very old, and I couldn’t help but wonder how they would taste …

Johann opened several bottles of the top selling wines, including the Pinotage and the Cabernet Sauvignon. They were both incredibly delicious, with the Pinotage having the characteristic spice and earthy forrest floor flavors. The Cabernet was fabulous as well and can spend 24 to 36 months in new French oak.

Kadette is Kanonkops second label. A blend of 50% plus Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Matured in 225 litre French Nevers barrels for up to 16 months.

What makes winemaking at Kanonkop different is that while it follows the age-old tradition of being made in open concrete fermenters, the tanks are wide and shallow, rather high and deep. This ensures maximum skin contact. Another difference is that the soils are predominantly red decomposed granite and Hutton, with a high clay content, both of which have a very good water retention capacity.

Many thanks to Johann Krige and Abrie Beeslaar for a fabulous visit.

Kanonkop web site

See all visits to S. Africa producers

"Have you tasted their Sauvignon Blanc? It rocks!"

To be clear, we are speaking of the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc from the Arkenstone Vineyards estate in Howell Mountain. And "rock" is the appropriate word, for even though this is a California Sauvignon Blanc, the minerality is incredible. "Limestone soil?" I ask owner Susan Krausz over lunch.

I discover it is actually a variety of soils in this incredible region of Howell Mountain. In terms of style, it is a surprisingly muscular Sauvignon blanc with loads of minerals and a bright splash of acidity.

The Krausz family purchased the property in the late 1980s as a vacation home, and in the fullness of time, discovered its value as a winery. Beyond the Sauvignon Blanc which is also distinctive by its bottle (designed to capture the 1855 Bordeaux bottle with its deep punt), the winery makes excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and also Syrah.

I was able to try the 2006 and 2007 Obsidian which is grown on sandy soil. The color of both was deep and intence, with incredible balance.

Speaking of the 2006, it was a very assertive yet balanced cabernet sauvignon with precise structure and a harmony of flavors including chocolate, mocha, dusty red raspberry, vanilla, and casis. The 2007 is just a baby -- just right now beginning to open.

Syrah is a personal passion for Susan, and the 07 I taste is very dark in colr, with a nose of violet and blueberries ... a very deeply concentrated syrah with blueberries, mochal, and a long mineral finish.

A very intimate lunch with a very talented and passionate woman with delicious wine New York loves.

It's always fun when the Napa Vintners association comes to New York -- the owners and winemakers take a break from pouring at consumer and press functions, and are able to relax a bit and talk about their wines.

I first met Shirley Roy a few years ago at a trade event ... and had been very entranced by her Bordeaux style wine. So I eagerly accepted the opportunity to taste the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and also the 2006 ROY Estate Proprietary Red Wine.

The winery is located on Soda Canyon Road in the Napa Valley. just south of Stags Leap. Renowned winemaker Helen Turley designed the vineyard, with 17 acres planted to Cabernet, Merlot, and Petite Verdot with what Shirley calls the "Turley signature" - a tightly spaced vineyard with competing rootstock to insure concentration of fruit.

These days, the winemaker is Philippe Melka, one of the current "it winemakers" in the Napa Valley. The Proprietary Red 06 is a very lush yet balanced style of Cabernet Sauvignon, with bright acidity and excellent long finish. Very good wine, yet I prefered the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, with its aromas of dried herbs, blueberry, violet, and chocloate and a very silky mouthfeel and long finish that is "drink now" yet can mature for many years.

Shirley created the winery with her husband over ten years ago, and today is at the helm. She has incredible enthusiasm and energy and the story of how she started her vineyards from scratch is fascinating. More updates soon!

J. Lohr is a California producer of many different varietals, and increasingly, many different vineyards. I had the good fortune recently to receive a case of 2008 wines and must say all are of exceptional quality for the price. 

If I had to choose my two favorites, they would be the Chardonnay and the 2007 Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon. These are incredibly well crafted wines. Below are notes on all the wines.

J. Lohr 2008 Merlot from Paso Robles:

This is an easy drinking style of wine that would pair perfectly with grilled salmon or pork, with very cleanly defined black fruit and bright elements of spearmint. Very well balanced and nearly naked in the sense the fruit is not overwhelmed by oak. Paso Robles has extreme temperature variations between night and day, responsible for the intense concentration of fruit here, and gravel well draining soils.

J. Lohr 2008 chardonnay Arroyo Vista

This is a delicious, traditional style chard with body, tropical fruit, and a long lingering finish - very rich and balanced and a good accompaniement to white fish, salads, and other fare.

J. Lohr 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles

Clean, balanced Cabernet Sauvignon with pure back fruit (blackberries)  ... a touch of sweetness makes it a good pairing for dishes such as pork, especially with a fruit marinade or sauce, roasted salmon with same, or brisket.

J. Lohr 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Vineyards

Blackberries, concentrated black fruit such as casis black plum blackberies ... very clean and even, very concentrated fruit from select vineyard and excellent example of incredible terroir and winemaking.

J. Lohr 2008 Petite Syrah

this is a classic California Petite Syrah with intense concentrated black and blue fruit, very smooth tannins, and a delightful way to accompany pork and braised short ribs.

"So how does it feel to be a winemaker ... and given special attention because of your sex? Or because of color ..." I  asked Ntsiki Biyela: South Africa Woman Winemaker of the Year. As I tasted through her wines, very impressed at the complexity of flavor and well balanced structure, I couldn't help but wonder if she was appreciative of the extra attention (that came along with awards and global media appearances, including CNN hours ago).

If I understood Ms. Biyela correctly, it was all part of the territory.

Ms.Biyela is here to promote her Stellekaya winery, whose wines are featured in select wine shops and South African wine bars here in New York, and also take part in the S. African wine tasting Tuesday. The name “STELLEKAYA” is a fusion of Latin and African words and means “Home of the Stars”. The owners have chosen to link the branding to astronomy and more specifically some of the 48 original constellations charted by Ptolemy.

Tonight's tasting was held at Sojourn, a trendy S. African restaurant here in New York. I had quickly skimmed reviews before zipping off, and most reviewers spoke of the incredible S. African wine list, great food, and "sexy ambiance." I didn't know quite what that meant but perhaps the red partition after the door had something to do with it. Or the candlelight. Or the fun "open seating" environment that set the stage for Ms. Biyela's wine dinner -- her wines would be accompanying a set menu created by SoJourn proprieter Stanton Du Toit.

Very cleverly, the three first wines were brought out on a wooden device, with little business sized cards propped up before each glass to explain the name and the composition. Blends are big with Ms. Biyela ... Hercules 06 was first, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. In Tuscany this would be called a 'super Tuscan' and not sure if it has a name in S. Africa, yet it was delicious, quite full bodied and complex. The middle wine was a single varietal Cabernet Sauvignon 05, ripe and succulent with notes of black current. Then on the extreme right was a Cape Cross 04, a very unique wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinotage (the cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault). This was one of the evening favorites until the main course wine of Orion, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It was delicious and complex with bright notes of red fruit and deeper undertones. It was ready to drink now, yet seemed as if it could age ten more years.

Cuisine at Sojourn is fabulous -- and the wines from S. Africa are extremely well crafted. Perhaps the challenge for S. Africa is that fine winemakers are producing quality wines, yet awareness of these wines needs to be created. 

Stellekaya vineyards are situated on well drained slopes of decomposing sandstone and rich clays. Many of these
vineyards overlook False Bay with important sea breezes to lower to temperature. Production is made using the traditional “pigeage” /punch down method in open fermenters - punching down produces less aggressive tannins than pumping over. The fruit is cooled on arrival and a cold maceration is applied to ensure that the fruit
flavours are captured prior to fermentation taking place. The wines are pressed using a wooden basket press following by 100% maturation in French Oak Barriques specially chosen and designed to reduce the sense of aggressive tannins.

Indeed during dinner I remarked on how ready to drink these wines were, even though they were balanced enough to age for ten years. This quality might be responsible for the somewhat high mid-30's price -- French oak barriques and the care that is needed for good selection is quite expensive. Yet the wines are doing very well in Manhattan wine bars and wine shops. And according to the owners, Stellekaya is about producing a “hand made” wine in limited
quantity that will be appreciated by a small audience of discerning consumers who favour quality and character over price.

You can read more about Stellekaya wines here ...

Sometimes I get so caught up in my studies of the Old World I discover it has been months since I've sipped wine from the new world, especially California. Winemaker Gary Sitton of Blackstone Winery in Sonoma sent me some of his new releases ...

The Pinot Noir 2007 ($20) is rich and expressive on the nose of sharp red fruit on the absolute peak of ripeness. The fruit is ripe and red on the nose, and balanced on the palate with juicy red flavors that would pair well with salmon, pork, composed salads.

I really like the Merlot 2007 - very rich and complex, tasting more expensive than its $23 price tag. On the nose notes of spice and red fruit. On the palate, more ripe, red fruit and spice with a lingering finish of vanilla and licorice.

The Cabernet Sauvignon is a great steak wine ... ripe red and black fruit, vanilla, a balanced with with the kind of high acidity and pungent tannins needed to match a steak. Vineyards used in this wine include the Knights Valley, an up and coming region. ($20)

The Rubric 2007 (their finest Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from their best vineyards) is quite delicious ... rich concentration of fruit, good length, and fabulous structure.

Chardonnay Reserve 2007 - apple pie a la mode, vanilla, creme brulee -- the flavors that make up the standard California chard. $15

Winemaker Sitton remarks this is his third crush, and for the first time he is seeing in the wine the changes he's been making all these years in the vineyards and winery, which range from picking the fruit at the optimum time of physiological ripeness to changing the oak profile. Good going, Mr. Sitton.

Eric Titus

Tonight I had dinner with Eric Titus of Titus Vineyards in the Napa Valley and talked about his Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Sauvignon Blanc while tasting through several flights. The dinner was held at the illustrious Jean-George Vongerichten restaurant Perry Street, which is very hip and cool (think white on white theme, with floor to ceiling windows looking out to the river, white sofas, white chairs, white tables, very clean and flavorful cuisine ....) 

For wine journalists, it is always fun to meet the maker of the wines, instead of just tasting it. One could say it is almost like the ability to meet with a long gone author or musician, and understand more about the foundation of their book or music via the force of their personality.

Eric is very forthcoming and honest, much like his wines. He went to high school in St Helena in the Napa Valley, along with other children of wine makers (his parents bought the vineyard in 1969 and sold their grapes) and also the children of people who serviced the vineyard. When he said he worked the vineyards during summers and after school, I had to ask if it was a passion or a work ethic instilled by his parents. I'm sure you can guess the answer, as Eric pursued studies in marine biology over a curriculum in viticulture and enology. He earned his doctorate in biology and embarked on a ten-year career in marine biological research and environmental consulting. After working in such varied locations as Honolulu, Baltimore and San Francisco, and Guam he returned to St. Helena during the heralded 1997 vintage. With the Titus Vineyards wine production steadily increasing and the vineyards in need of redevelopment, Eric came to work full-time for the family wine business. He now divides his time between managing vineyard operations and the overseeing the business side of the winery.

Now the Sauvignon Blanc is a fabulous wine, with an aroma of grapefruit pith and palate of the same. I found it far weightier than other Sauvignon Blancs, with very good expression of the terrior and the ability to match slightly heavier foods such as slow cooked Branzino. I adored the Cabernet Franc -- the absolute expression of everything a Cab Franc should be, which to me is (taste-wise) akin to the pleasure of stomping on the first fall leaves on the ground on a crisp day. Really fantastic nose on  this wine, great expression and complexity, and a flag waving signature that yes, Cab Franc can be made and made well in the Napa Valley. The Cabernet Sauvignon was powerful, very rich and concentrated and extracted. Try this one with a grilled juicy steak.

Since one of the houses on the property was built in 1910 and it is 48 hours before Halloween, I had to ask the question:  Has he experienced any ghosts? Eric says no, yet mentions that several workers living in the house have experenced a certain energy. Lately, though, Eric tells me, the energy has become incresingly positive, as the entity -- if indeed there is one -- is vibrating to the creativity and success of Titus Vineyards. "

Quick! Imagine you are presented with a "blind flight" of Sauvignon Blanc wine (or Chardonnay for that matter). Do you think you can pick out a wine from New York’s Long Island against wines from Sancerre or New Zealand? Assume that all wines have the same color, and for the most part, a similar aroma profile. Such a tasting would be particularly intriguing, as most people, even top wine writers, do not have the luxury of comparing a single varietal to its cousins around the world. And how does one recognize the characteristics of a Long Island wine anyway?

The above fantasy became reality recently when the Long Island Wine Council sponsored a seminar and blind tasting of its wines against others from top international regions. The result? Long Island wine can hold its own against the world’s most popular and expensive regions. Right now you may be wondering about the characteristics of Long Island varietals, which are a function of their terroir. One factor is the climate, which is very cool yet moderated by the bodies of water in the area. Vintage variation is considerable. And then there is the soil, which as in many old world countries is quite mineral in nature.

The Long Island Wine Blind Challenge began with a seminar, followed by five flights of a single varietal (each flight was four glasses each). Sitting around me were several of Manhattan’s – and the world’s – finest wine writers. Though some might say we are a jaded lot, truth be told we are passionate about wine, with a burning curiosity to discover factors responsible for what we smell and taste in the glass.

Long Island produces many grapes, but the key varietals are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay (both oaked and un-oaked), Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Journalists tasted through five flights: Sauvignon Blanc, Un-Oaked Chardonnay, Oaked Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. When the names of the wines were revealed, I was pleased to see I had attached the correct regions to the wines (a testament to an exhaustive wine education). Yet the comparative tasting also underscored how incredibly well-crafted wines from Long Island are, both the white and the red.

Linda Lawry, Director of the International Wine Center, was the Emcee of the event, with speakers including Steve Bate, Executive Director of the Long Island Wine council, Larry Perrine, CEO/Partner of Channing Daughters Winery, and Kip Bedell, Founding Winemaker, Bedell Cellars.

... so the first time I met Kathryn Hall was at Per Se, where she announced that her California winery was becoming certified Organic. I remember tasting the Cabernet and finding it quite rich, layered and complex.

Yet Wednesday night September 30 I was able to taste the 2006 HALL "Kathryn Hall" Cabernet Sauvignon, which got 95 points from Steve Heimoff of Wine Enthusiast, and found it so incredibly concentrated and delicious with hints of chocolate and ripe, jammy flavors.

I was happy to hear that Kathryn's winery is now Certified Organic (it is a very long process) and look forward to the next vintage.

... so the first time I met Kathryn Hall was at Per Se, where she announced that her California winery was becoming certified Organic. I remember tasting the Cabernet and finding it quite rich, layered and complex.

Yet Wednesday night September 30 I was able to taste the 2006 HALL "Kathryn Hall" Cabernet Sauvignon, which got 95 points from Steve Heimoff of Wine Enthusiast, and found it so incredibly concentrated and delicious with hints of chocolate and ripe, jammy flavors.

I was happy to hear that Kathryn's winery is now Certified Organic (it is a very long process) and look forward to the next vintage.