.... So a great presentation today by Marnie Old, who gave a talk for Wines from Spain "Great Match" at the Metropolitan Pavillion about Cava.

Marnie is a fabulous presenter whose enthusiasm for Cava came out loud and clear. The tasting room on the 4th floor of the Metropolitan Pavillion was beautifully set-up with well chosen wines.

The most important take-away point from today's presentation addressed the question of "why Cava" over Prosecco or Champagne. The simple reason, according to Marnie, is that Champagne is too expensive for even a seasoned speaker like Marnie to order in a restaurant (and everyone else, too!)

And as for Prosecco, the reasoning was much more profound. In the course of the lecture, people who do not really understand Cava or its tradition and process discovered the blending process of the three traditional grapes (and now allowed international grapes like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), as well as the stringent aging process (9 to 60 months on lees) as well as hand riddling (the shaking process that moves the dead yeast cells to the neck of the bottle).

The careful planting of the correct grape variety planted on the correct soil (and altitude, as I learned from a visit to Freixenet), the careful attention to organic pest control (sexual confusion, again at Freixenet), the careful assemblage of the various grape varieties, and the aging on the lees for as many as four years show how it differs from Prosecco, which is really only one grape albeit grown (according to producer) on specific quality terroir.

Of the nine wines presented I had three favorites:  the Segura Viudas 'Aria' Cava Rosado Reserva with its aroma and flavors of strawberry, gentle mousse, and gorgeous color (made from 100% pinot noir, $18), the Vilarnau 'Brut Nature' from Byass (85% Chardonnay, 15% Parellada NV, $18), and Freixenet 'Elyssia Grand Cuvee' (40% Chardonnay, 30% Macabeo, 20% Parellada, 10% Pinot Noir, $18).

You can read more about the Cava process and my experience at Freixenet here:
 

With the high prices of Champagne, Cava (sparkling wine produced in the 'traditional method' from Spain) is seen by many as a fabulous alternative.

Yet why "alternative?"

Cava is a sparkling wine in exactly the same way as Champagne is a sparkling wine. Both are produced by the "traditional" method in which the bottle purchased by the consumer was the same one used during the secondary fermentation in bottle.

Today several producers of Cava came to New York to explain their grapes, production method, and introduce their wines.

The presentation, which included a noted expert and a documentary film, was interesting, yet what really brought the key points to fruition was during the tasting, as many producers brought their top quality cavas to pair with an assortment of exotic cuisine (shrimp, lobster, assorted decadent strawberry and chocolate desserts). It was a fabulous opportunity to try more expensive, aged Cava wines and see how they pair with different food.

One of the new producers I met was Felipe Gonzalez-Gordon, President of Gonzalez Byass. Felipe lives in NYC and had some fabulous wines he brought from his own cellar.

Your favorite wine store clerk can help you discover Cava - ask about the style and price that best suits your taste on your next visit.

... and if you'd like to read about my adventures in Cava-land with Freixenet, click here!

Care for a Cava? When you reach for a Spanish Sparkler on your supermarket shelf, chances are it’s from Freixenet, given their 200 million bottle production. Did you realize that the family-owned Freixenet sells 160 sparkling and still wine brands worldwide?

Recently, I had the opportunity to travel to Spain to meet CEO Pedro Ferrer to discover more about the company and its goals going forward in 2010.

Ferrer Family History

As in a best-selling novel or glittering television soap opera, the founding of Freixenet goes back to a late 19th century wedding celebration joining two wealthy and prominent Spanish wine families, the Ferrers, owners of La Freixeneda, and the Salas, wine exporters to Latin America.

Rioja – Solar Viejo

Jose Montilla is the winemaker at Solar Viejo in Rioja, which was originally built in the 1970s, and purchased by the Freixenet family in 2004. The very best grapes are sourced from over 35 neighbouring growers who have been growing grapes for Solar Viejo for decades.

Rioja first became a Denominacion de Origen in 1925, and in 1991 was named a Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOC). The region stretches 75 miles along the Ebro River in Northern Spain and is divided into three growing regions, each bringing fruit with its own unique characteristic.

The higher altitude regions to the north, Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, have moderate weather and some moisture, while Rioja Baja to the east experiences hot, dry weather. Most of the grapes used in Solar Viejo are sourced from Alavesa, which is higher in altitude with lower levels of rainfall, and are said to make the best wine.

Ribera del Duero – Valdubon

Winemaker Javier Aladro is proud to show off this winery and explain the soil (clay and sand) of the vineyards that stretch from the famed Duero river to upland slopes and benchland above the river. The climate is quite harsh, with cold winters and late spring frosts that can devastate the vines.

And despite the intense summer heat, the altitude of the vineyards (1,700 - 2,400 feet) create the kind of very cool night time temperatures that helps the grapes maintain a good acid-sugar balance (the diurnal effect) that sets the tone for excellent wines.

Priorat - Morlanda & Fra Guerau wineries

Judit Llop is the young winemaker for both brands in the Spanish DOC of Priorat. Here the winery is modern, built in 1997, yet the vineyards that surround it are much older. Much of the fruit comes from select hillside vineyards with vines between 25 - 40 years old, and some almost 80 years. The elevation here is between 550 - 700 feet, with the winery’s name taken from the name of the highest hill in the area. Yields are low, with the estate producing about 3,300 cases annually.

Freixenet and Segura Viudas

Freixenet acquired Segura Viudas, a rival Cava company, some time ago, with the grape reception area located on the Segura Viudas property. My visit coincides with the harvest, and it is interesting to note the dozens, even hundreds, of trucks that arrive filled with grapes. The grapes are measured for sugar, various acids, and other key points in a sample taken by a robotic arm, with a print out of the results available within seconds.

Grapes are crushed here, with fermentation taking place at Freixenet, notable throughout the world for its yeast collection. Native yeasts are taken from the property and cultured in the in-house laboratory to ensure a correct fermentation.

The Future

Freixenet winemakers are passionate, intelligent, and seemingly very grateful to be given the opportunity to make wine at such a young age for one of the biggest winemaking companies in the world.

The wineries are still young, yet the brands are slowly developing brand recognition.

Today many players are getting involved in finding and revitalizing wineries, yet it is uncertain if they can match the attention to detail I saw with Freixenet.
 

Think of Cava sparkling wine, and chances are the familiar brown and gold label of Segura Viudas comes to mind. Few people realize that this popular wine is actually named after the man who founded it in the 1950s. Mr. Viudas was a grower who made sparkling wine – Cava - and sold it to others to bottle under their own name. People craved this delicious Cava, and eventually Mr. Viudas realized that he should be bottling the wine himself under his own brand.

It is a sunny Fall day and I am so excited to be here, in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia (the key center for Cava production), at the peak of harvest. Every fifteen seconds, giant trucks swoosh through the enormous, beautifully landscaped driveway of the Segura Viudas winery with their cargo of neatly packed containers of perfectly ripe green grapes. It is a very pretty scene, and poets through the centuries must come up with beautiful prose to describe the rolling green hills and charming historic buildings with their Roman archways that make up the Segura Viudas headquarters.

In Spain, Cava production is less a “region” than a production area that is spread through 160 municipalities that also include the Basque country, Navarra, La Rioja, Aragon, Valencia, and Extremadura. What makes this Penedes region the prime region for Cava production is the soil and climate.

The Penedes

Vineyard Manager Sebastia Raventos Pascual meets me in the vineyard and tells me a bit about the area, explaining that the Penedes is actually divided into three regions. The lower Penedes is close to the coast, has a hot climate, and the soil is both limestone and clay. Xarel-lo, one of the key grape varieties, is grown here. The middle Penedes (150 – 300 meters above sea level) stretches along the central hills and is cooler than the coastal climate. Here the soil is limestone and chalk, and is the best region for Macabeo. The upper Penedes (250 – 600 meters above sea level) is the highest and most humid region, and the soil is very chalky. This is the best region for Parellada. Like champagne, each of the grapes give the wine a different characteristic. Macabeo adds acidity and finesse, Xarel-lo adds body and structure, as well as alcohol. And Parallada produces a low alcohol wine that also adds aroma.



Rootstocks, Soil, and Grapes

Freixenet, the best-selling, family-owned Cava company, owns the Segura Viudas brand as well. The grapes for all the Freixenet brands are sourced from their own vineyards, as well as 1200 contracted growers. Mr. Pascual tells me that before buying a vineyard, a detailed soil analysis is performed. He shows me PowerPoint slides and charts that illustrate the extensive research that goes into effort. First, the plot must have the nutritional requirements necessary for the grapes. Once this is satisfied and the plot is purchased, the next step is to pinpoint the best rootstock to plant on the vineyard. The choice of Rootstock is important, as depending on the plot, it may be necessary to choose a rootstock that resists phylloxera or rain. Finally, Mr. Pascual and his team must decide on the grape varietal that is best matched to both the soil and rootstock. 


Dangers in the Vineyard

Mr. Pascual and his team must be alert for potential dangers in the vineyard, such as rot or odium. One way to avert rot is by training the vines on trellis instead of the traditional “bush training” method, as it allows the wind to reach and dry the grapes after a heavy rain and avoid rot. The team must also watch out for odium, mildew, botrytis, and the grape moth, which is controlled by “sexual confusion.” Mr. Pascual uses pheromones to confuse the male moth when it seeks a mate via the use of sprayers hidden in the vines. By all accounts, the method is working very well. 



In addition to global warming, rainfall has also increased over the past several years. The main challenge is that it’s not just the amount of rain that falls, but also the force and intensity of the rain which can flood a vineyard and create erosion. For example, a forceful rain can wash the soil and nutrients from the top of the slope to the bottom. 
To correct this problem, Mr. Pascual has his team dig trenches in the vineyard to channel the water safely to the sides of the vineyard, and also plant filler crop between the rows to divert the rush of water safely away. 



Grape Reception



After the vineyard tour, we walk to the trucks lining up at the grape reception area. The grapes look round and plump and perfectly healthy, and I discover it is a result of the excellent care. Unlike other cava producers, Friexenet’s contractors are required to hand pick and use shallow 25 kg plastic crates to avoid crushing and thus, oxidation.

At the reception area, a robotic arm takes a sample of grapes from random boxes of each producer to determine quality. The juice from each truck’s sampling is collected by a worker, who brings it into the adjacent station for 17 points of analysis. The collected juice is tested for sugar, various acidity, PH, and more and the results are instantly printed out by a computer. The grower is paid according to how well his or her grapes scored.

Outside by the truck I analyze a grape the old-fashioned way, taking a ripe specimen from a perfectly healthy bunch and popping it into my mouth. It is very ripe and delicious. Given the terms of their contract, the growers are highly motivated to produce the healthiest way possible.



Pressing the Grapes

After reception, the grapes are mechanically loaded into a giant hopper, which leads down to a lower level where one finds the pneumatic presses that can hold the equivalent of 25,000 bottles. The grapes are very gently pressed twice, with the first pressing going into one tank, and the second into another. The process takes four to five hours and makes the equivalent of 25,000 bottles of wine.

Quality Can Be Tasted in the Glass

After several hours of watching giant trucks, hoppers, and pneumatic presses turn healthy green grapes into what will soon become a base wine and then fine Cava, it’s very clear to see that quality wine is truly made in the vineyard. Tasting through the Segura Viudas line I was impressed by the wines at each price point, from the well-balanced cavas to the pretty rose colored wines to the Reserva Heredad, a limited production Cava originally reserved for members of the Segura family and their friends.

Leaving the winery, I was surprised to discover my thoughts were focused on Mr. Segura, and how brave he was to take that important move of realizing that his name belonged on his own bottles of Cava, and that he was selling himself short by letting others take credit for all his efforts. It felt good to see that Freixenet, the brand’s new owner, was keeping Mr. Segura’s memory alive.
 

You know Freixenet – of course you do! With production over 200 million bottles a year, it’s America’s favorite Cava (sparkling wine) for dinner parties, birthdays, and special events. Yet the story of why Freixenet controls market share and how it was able to hold on to it for so long is a story that goes back over a hundred years . More specifically, it  centers on the strong roots of this family-owned company, its obsession for quality, and the forward-looking vision of its CEO.

Today I’m standing outside the quaint, old-fashioned looking Freixenet winery on a sunny October day in the tiny town of Sant Sadurni d’Anoia in the region of Catalunya, where 95% of the total production of Cava is made. In Spain, Cava production is less a “region” than a production area that is spread through 160 municipalities that also include the Basque country, Navarra, La Rioja, Aragon, Valencia, and Extremadura.

The parking lot lot appears empty save for a classic car in the shape of a sparkling wine bottle, and inside the cool reception area, employees and the few visiting guests appear calm and relaxed. In the foyer one can see ancient black and white pictures of the founders, Pedro Ferrer and his wife Dolores Sala, along with photographs of the winery in its first incarnation as a small-scale operation.

How amazed they would be to see the result of their energy and hard work.

Cava creates happiness with its joyous bubbles and delicious taste. By law, it is produced in the “traditional method” like Champagne, a process that takes many parts.

Grapes of Cava

The primary grapes for making sparkling wine (Cava) are Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada. Like champagne, each of the grapes give the wine a different characteristic. Macabeo adds acidity and finesse, Xarel-lo adds body and structure, as well as alcohol. And Parallada produces a low alcohol wine that also adds aroma.



1st Fermentation

Grapes are whole-bunched pressed in a vary gentle pneumatic press, with the first and second press juice clearly defined.

They are inoculated with yeast from Freixenet’s famed “yeast” collection with the result being the lower alcohol “base wine.” It is usually a rapid fermentation as fruit and fermentation esters are not desired.

Its All About the Yeast

Producing 200 bottles of sparkling wine a year means that quality control is key. An individual who buys and loves a certain Freixenet wine needs to know it will taste exactly the same way when he purchases another bottle.

One of the key ways that the experts at Freixenet maintain quality is through the scientific creation of specific indigenous yeast that will ensure a complete fermentation and also help the sparkling wine achieve the characteristics favorable for flavor, safety and stability.

It is also important to realize that the strain of yeast used for the first fermentation will usually be different than the yeast used from the second fermentation, as different outcomes are desired.

Yeast 101

Yeast is a hot topic today in the news (at least, among wine geeks). As you may suspect, there are two camps. One camp believes in natural or indigenous yeast. Since yeast is present on the bloom (or skin) of the grape, it is naturally present in the winery. The challenge is that indigenous yeast often needs “help” to bring the grapes to a complete dry fermentation. Wild yeast can mean “uncertain” and “unpredictable” yeast that can stop for any number of reasons.

Pilar Urpi Bonell, the chemist who holds the title of “Jefe de Laboratorio” at Freixenet, leads the white-coated team responsible for sourcing the indigenous yeast of the area and using the magic of modern science to make it more stable. 




The indigenous yeast is selected from the local Penedes Region, isolated, and then processed to have specific desirable characteristics.

Blending

The next step is to blend the varieties, and age the base wine. By law it is 9 months for Cava, 30 months for a Gran Riserva Cava.

Riddling

A century ago, an individual would deftly twist each bottle each day to move the yeast towards the neck of the bottle, so it can be removed upon disgorgement. Today this task is handled by riddling machines (sometimes called a gyropalette) that shorten the process.

Discorging

After the allotted time of maturation, a machine takes each bottle, freezes the neck, and allows the internal pressure to push the yeast plug out. Dosage (wine, yeast, and the desired level of sugar) tops it off to the required sweetness level.

Freixenet’s success allowed it to build up the kind of reserves that enabled the company to purchase other properties to add to its crown of jewels, most specifically Sigura Viudas nearby, which was named for the founder of the famous brand.

To read more about the terroir of Penedes and meet Sigura Viudas’ vineyard manager, Sebastia Raventos Pascual, vineyard manager, click here.

To read about the history of the Freixenet family, click here.

"Would you like to start with Champagne?" the waiter asks as you and your Sweetie sit down to celebrate Valentines Day. As this is a day set apart for sparklers, your answer should be, "Of course."

Even people who prefer still wine drink sparklers on Valentines Day, quite possibly because the sparkle in the glass holds the promise of the night ahead. In the finest five-star restaurants around the world, champagne is often offered from a cart, with the sommelier explaining the various producers. On Valentine's Day, most waiters will also ask you if you'd like to start out with a glass.

Depending on your budget for the evening, you may want to look at the wine list first. Some top restaurants price their champagne at $25 a glass, sometimes more. Sure, it's top quality, but if price is an issue, you will be happy to learn you can find many impressive, delicious, affordable good quality sparkling wines on the list.

What is Champagne?

Americans commonly use the word champagne to refer to any sparking wine. Legally, only sparkling wine produced in the region of Champagne, France has the right to call their sparkling product Champagne. Even inside France, any wine that sparkles is called Cremant, not Champagne.

If you have had the good fortune to have tried genuine champagne and want to replicate that experience (but not the price), you will want to choose a sparkling wine made in what is called the "traditional method." For simplicity, this means the exact same wine making process is used as in the Champagne region, but the grapes are not specifically grown in the Champagne region. Nor are they necessarily the same three varietals of grapes used in the Champagne region: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meuniere.

At this point you may be thinking, hey, isn't Pinot Noir a black grape? Doesn't that make a red wine? Isn't that the grape that the film Sideways was all about? What does Pinot Noir have to do with top quality Champagne? Good questions.

For the last three hundred years, at least, Pinot Noir and also the black grape Pinot Meuniere were classical components of champagne. Their skins are black, but their flesh (and juice) is white. When made specifically as a red wine, Pinot Noir's red skin is allowed to macerate (soak and stain) the white juice. In the production of classic Champagne, Pinot Noir and Meuniere grapes are very carefully crushed so as not to let the black skin color the white juice.

Sometimes, only the Chardonnay grape is used to make traditional Champagne. As this has a white skin, the resulting champagne is categorized as a "Blanc de Blanc." In the best sparklers from California, though, you will find Blanc de Noir, a blend in which the black skins of the Pinot Noir and Meuniere grapes are allowed to slightly color the white juice. Beyond color, this also adds a bit of tannin and 'bite.' Many sparkling wines from Napa and Sonoma Valleys are excellent and range from around $20 - $60 in wine shops, and around $50 to $100 in restaurants.

Sparkling wine from Spain also uses the traditional method like Champagne, France, but the grape varieties are Parellada, Macabeo, and Xarello. Here's a tip: Spanish sparklers are as delicious as California wines, but much more affordable. As a bonus, some producers also generate the same yeasty, buttery, croissant aroma character as you may find in Champagne.

Sweeter than Cava and a different flavor profile entirely is Prosecco, which is produced in an area of Italy not too far from Venice. Prosecco is produced using a different method entirely, resulting in a product that usually contains some residual sugar and is usually quite affordable, both in stores and restaurants.

So go ahead, enjoy Valentine's Day with a sizzling sparkler. Who knows what the night may bring?