Quick! Imagine you are presented with a "blind flight" of Sauvignon Blanc wine (or Chardonnay for that matter). Do you think you can pick out a wine from New York’s Long Island against wines from Sancerre or New Zealand? Assume that all wines have the same color, and for the most part, a similar aroma profile. Such a tasting would be particularly intriguing, as most people, even top wine writers, do not have the luxury of comparing a single varietal to its cousins around the world. And how does one recognize the characteristics of a Long Island wine anyway?

The above fantasy became reality recently when the Long Island Wine Council sponsored a seminar and blind tasting of its wines against others from top international regions. The result? Long Island wine can hold its own against the world’s most popular and expensive regions. Right now you may be wondering about the characteristics of Long Island varietals, which are a function of their terroir. One factor is the climate, which is very cool yet moderated by the bodies of water in the area. Vintage variation is considerable. And then there is the soil, which as in many old world countries is quite mineral in nature.

The Long Island Wine Blind Challenge began with a seminar, followed by five flights of a single varietal (each flight was four glasses each). Sitting around me were several of Manhattan’s – and the world’s – finest wine writers. Though some might say we are a jaded lot, truth be told we are passionate about wine, with a burning curiosity to discover factors responsible for what we smell and taste in the glass.

Long Island produces many grapes, but the key varietals are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay (both oaked and un-oaked), Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Journalists tasted through five flights: Sauvignon Blanc, Un-Oaked Chardonnay, Oaked Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. When the names of the wines were revealed, I was pleased to see I had attached the correct regions to the wines (a testament to an exhaustive wine education). Yet the comparative tasting also underscored how incredibly well-crafted wines from Long Island are, both the white and the red.

Linda Lawry, Director of the International Wine Center, was the Emcee of the event, with speakers including Steve Bate, Executive Director of the Long Island Wine council, Larry Perrine, CEO/Partner of Channing Daughters Winery, and Kip Bedell, Founding Winemaker, Bedell Cellars.

...so this evening enjoyed a rather lively evening ar the Cervantes Institute in NYC, exploring the wines of Bodegas Riojanas. Of course it is not every day that one has the opportunity to blind taste a 1962 Vina Albina vs. a 1964 Monte Real ... or in that case a 1942 Vina Albina vs. a 1955 Monte Real.

Now the tasting was rather humbling, because these seem to be supernatural grapes. The '42 seemed as fresh and lively as the day it was bottled -- only tell tale sign of years was in the faded color.

Now both of these wines are made by Bodegas Riojanas, founded in 1890 by several of Cenicero's (a town in Rioja Alta) old families who owned large vineyards in the township. Joining Helio San Miguel (who creates the programs at the Cervantes Institute) was Anthony Benitez of Vintage Wines, who imports the brand and had been the visiting instructor on Spanish Wines when I was a student at the Sommelier Society of America.

As is typical in a Helio San Miguel tasting, some of the wines were tasted blind - and I was super excited to realize that I could tell the difference between the Vina Albina and Monte Real Style, going from 2004 to 1942. During the tasting, Helio also shared that he bought a 100 year old wine from spain and it tasted still very fresh.

So, what did this tasting suggest?

On a marketing front, that Bodegaas Riojanas felt the need to create a "modern" style to appeal to its export clients in Monte Real. This style is intended to be more fruirt forward and in line with today's palate.

From a maturation standpoint, that a '42 vintage is holding up quite well, and possibly can even 'benifit' from further aging. Now the '42 was quite drinkble, and yes, even delicious, yet I think the basic benefit from bringing out a '32 would be the 'wow' and 'curioisity' factor among potential guests. Try this with a top Bordeaux or Burgundy and you will be paying a lot more than $100.

Once upon a time, wine from Chianti was associated with candles and straw wrapping. Savvy wine connoisseurs today know that the quality of wine from the Chianti region of Italy—and the specific D.O.C.G. region of Chianti Classico -- has soared. Yet many consumers wonder what makes Chianti Classico different than ‘regular’ Chianti? And where is this Chianti Classico region, exactly?

The Chianti Classico zone includes the territories of the communes of Castellina, Gaiole, Greve, and Radda and parts of those of Barberino Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, San Casciano Val di Pesa, and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa – over 70,000 hectares. Altitudes range from 200 to 800 meters, the climate is continental overall, and the stony, shallow soil and steep slopes make for a quality wine producing area. Wines with the familiar Black Rooster logo – symbol of an official D.O.C.G. Chianti Classico – must satisfy a series of regulations stipulated in the production of this wine, namely eighty percent Sangiovese and up to 20% maximum of other red varieties including Canaiolo, Colorino, and even international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Trebbiano and Malvasia (white grapes) were once part of the official mix, but have been outlawed as of the 2006 vintage.

To help students of wine better understand the region, the Wine and Spirits Educational Trust organized a study trip for students and graduates in mid-June of 2009. It would prove a whirlwind of two and a half days of touring eight wineries, yet it would prove a fantastic opportunity to meet the producers and get a real feel for the region. After an early morning flight and train ride to Florence, we were whisked off to the town of Gaiole and the first of several wineries, Checchi – Castellina. We enjoyed an extensive tour of the property and learned a bit about its history. The winery was founded by Luigi Cecchi in 1893 when the accepted recipe for Chianti was 70% Sangiovese, 15 percent Canaiolo, and 15% Malvasia Blanca. The Canaiolo gave the wine tannic strength, and the white grapes softened the blend. The mix also gave winemakers the tools to overcome flaws that are now avoided by this winery’s shiny new equipment and viticultural savvy. Andrea Cecci, co-proprietor with his brother Cesare, were getting ready for VinExpo but greeted us at a reception in a gorgeous space overlooking the vineyard where we had the opportunity to taste select vintages.

Our next stop was Fattoria di Petroio s.a.s di Diana Lenzi & Co. This is a remarkable winery for many reasons. The tour was led by the dynamic blond American Pamela Lenzi, whose Italian physician husband inherited the property. Pamela’s incredible enthusiasm and dedication to the property was palpable. While showing off the cellar, she laughed that while most women want diamonds or fur coats as birthday gifts, she wanted new tanks. The estate’s terroir is unique as it stands on the watershed between two major basins of Tuscany resulting in little rain. Large, sculpture size stones spring up all over the property, rendering it something of a magical place. An ancient church adjoining the property is sometimes used for weddings. Following a tasting and check-in at a lively, modern hotel, we attended dinner al fresco organized by Consorzio Chianti Classico at Podere Terreno alla via della Volpaia.

The following day we visited Rocca di Castagnoli, another gorgeous property. This winery combines the best of the old and the new … the stone building spans centuries, yet has a sleek, updated look due to the high tech glass doors and state of the art winemaking equipment. Max – our informative guide – gave us a tour of the cellar and orchestrated the tasting. Next was a ‘light lunch’ and tasting at the Colle Bereto winery in Raddda. Like most of the estates visited, Colle Bereto also produced olive oil. Curious as it seems, at times olive oil was a more lucrative business than wine production. Following this visit we went to Greve, another Chianti Classico producing town, and toured the Panzanello winery now owned by Andrea and Iole Sommaruga, a young couple who have made wine on the estate for over ten years. Afterward we tasted their Riserva wines, very refined due to the couple’s mantra of “drinking wine, not oak.” Our last winery visit and tasting of the day was also in Greve, at Azienda Agricola Savignola Paolina di Ludovica Fabbri. Winemaker and owner Ludovica Fabbri had the similar high energy of Pamela Lenzi, though both have very different backgrounds. Azienda Agricola Savignola Paolina was known as a Christian settlement, built around the first half of the seventeenth century. In 1780 the Fabbri family purchased Savignola and started wine production in the second half of the 1800s. According to the effervescent Ludovica, the first real success of Savignola was a result of her aunt Paolina who between the two world wars took charge of the company and created its present name: Savignola Paolina. When Ludovica spoke of Paolina I could visualize this incredible, gutsy woman quite clearly in my mind. That night, we had a multi-course ‘Italian sampler’ dinner at Macelleria Cecchini, the restaurant of a butcher who is quite famous in town. Many Chianti wineries contributed bottles for our sampling pleasure.

On the day of our departure, we visited and enjoyed a tasting at Solatione in Greve, family owned and operated since 1972. In 1992, flame-haired brother and sister Fabio and Francesca decided to bottle their own wines and carry out the dream of their late father. One of the more amusing aspects of this visit was when the charming Francesca showed us one of the tanks with a typical miniscule opening. When someone asked how it was cleaned, Francesca described in an amusing fashion how a giant man was able to fit himself inside. Our final visit was Fattoria Le Corti, a historic estate where we enjoyed a tour of the winery, tasting, and lunch.

Overall, the key takeaway point from the trip was the passion the Chianti Classico producers had for their wine and their D.O.C.G. region. A surprising number of the producers were young, inherited the winery when they had established other careers, yet despite the ups and downs of the wine production trade consider producing wine a labor of love as well as a source of revenue. Far from the stereotype that once plagued the name “Chianti wine,” these producers will do anything in their power to create better wines, whether it is investing in expensive new winery equipment, pulling up old vines, or planting new clones. These producers are dynamic, creative, and enormously resourceful. This youthful energy is perhaps behind many of the new changing laws in Chianti Classico, as producers now desire to create a wine that consumers actually want to buy instead of sticking to tradition. Perhaps the best visual representation of this new energy comes from the home of Ludovica Fabbri, as her living room is constructed directly over an old olive oil press visitors can see through a window pane on the floor. Yes, the Chianti Classico region is founded on its unique terroir, but its new generation of producers are taking it into the new century

“Robert Parker spent an entire day here,” says the charming matriarch Annick Saturny, whose husband bought and created Château Tayac many decades ago. So far, this is the first Château I have visited that actually looks like the American ideal of what a Château should look like.

First, notice the imposing gates and long driveway that lead up to a spectacular mansion a few centuries old. The vineyard here, overlooking the junction between the Gironde and the Dordogne, dates back to Gallo-Roman times.

Château Tayac’s romantic history begs that you pour yourself a glass of the Chateau’s wine, sit near a fireplace, and absorb its incredible history. According to the 17th Edition of Charles Cocks’ book Bordeaux and Its Wines (first published in 1845 and now edited under the direction of Bruno Boidron with contributions by several authors), in 1356, the Black Prince (eldest son of Edward III of England) annexed Bourg and converted the noble houses into fortresses, Six years later, Edward III had them razed, including a structure where Château Tayac now stands.

In 1415, Charles VII gave the lands to the house of Dreux and a feudal castle was built. In the 19th century, the Château was demolished and the present day version, built in the Renaissance style, was built in its place. In 1920, the Château fell into the hands of M. Boyer, who made a success of his vineyard before falling ill in 1940. Pierre Saturney, Madame’s husband, bought the property, renovated the vineyard using the Massale method of selection, restored and modernized the winemaking facilities, and made wines from this Château world famous.

As Madame Saturny gives me an extensive tour of the property, we are trailed by her friendly dogs. I meet Madame’s attractive young granddaughter. Despite the world-wide reputation of these fine wines, and the almost intimidating splendor of the castle-like living quarters of the Château, this is very much a down-to-earth, family run operation that takes great pride in its product.

In the tasting room we try the Prestige ‘98, well balanced and rich with black fruit, very likely to age for another ten years. The 2006 “Black Prince” is marked by the aroma and taste of candied violets, and is both smooth and highly concentrated. It is an intensely rich, well balanced wine with good structure and nicely integrated tannins.

Next is the Reserve 2003, a personal favorite. This wine has it all -- spice, full black fruit, and casis, nearly opaque in color and intensity.

Château Tayac, like virtually all the Châteaux in Bourg, are available to visitors by appointment. For contact information for the wineries of the region consult the links below. Most have their email information on their web sites. And as Robert Parker said, visit soon – Bourg is a hot new region.

Ah, the Malbec grape! In Argentina, Malbec forms the basis of a rich, ripe wine with flavors of sun-warmed plum and a velvety texture. In its hometown of Cahors in southwest France, Malbec can take on hundreds of guises, from tender and fruity to feisty and powerful to intense and complex.

Today at New York’s Astor Center I enjoyed a rare treat in that I was able to sample the three main “types” or “quality levels” of Cahors (in France, it is typical to order a wine by naming the AOC, instead of the varietal) in a tutored tasting led by author, columnist, and wine expert Elin McCoy. I had met Elin several times before yet I was particularly impressed by the way she orchestrated the tasting and her poetic choice of words about the wine and the region. As she spoke, gorgeous pictures of the region and the cuisine of the city of Cahors flashed across a sleek monitor above.

Before the talk the audience – an assembly of people from the trade and journalists – heard Alain Janicot, Co-President of the Cahors wine negociants, speak about the history of the region through a colorful translation courtesy of fellow Wine Media Guild member Peter Hellman. Cahors became an AOC in 1971, with its wine having achieved worldwide fame in the Middle Ages as the “Black Wine” of Cahor. I have never found the wine to be particularly “black” – it is somewhat of a violet-ruby color when young – so perhaps the “black” refers to the typically strong, sometimes astringent tannins or its often masculine nature.

In any event, with Elin’s poetic words and the gorgeous scenery I was curious to start tasting the wine arranged before me, which represented the three basic categories of Cahors. Inexpensive (under $12) wine is tender and fruity, the medium range (under $21) is described as fiery and powerful, and the more expensive category is described as intense and complex.

After sampling the young and fruity wine, I could see that they could have their place with dishes like pizza or maybe chilled in a refrigerator and served outdoors on a hot summer day. I found several favorites in the feisty, powerful, intense, and complex category, especially the older wines in the walk-around tasting that followed. The most complex of these wines could hold their own against the Chateauneuf-du-Papes of the world at a five-star restaurant. The challenge is tasting enough Cahors so that you can become familiar with the producers. Happily, magazines and newsletters offer tasting notes to help you mentally “try before you buy.”

As you may imagine, one of the reasons for this tutored and walk-around tasting is to bring Cahors to the attention of the world. The region wants to increase exports during this five year period, perhaps more of a challenge today than ever before as so many wine regions around the world have the same self-described mandate. One key element in the region’s favor is that a new generation of Cahors winemakers have come of age, and unlike their predecessors, have attended enology school and are keen on maintaining a high standard of quality. They are lowering the average yield in the field and are refining the winemaking traditions of the region while conserving Malbec’s fresheness and terroir typicity.

Even before attending this lecture, I’ve always liked this wine and found it to be a great value on many wine lists, both of the five-star restaurant variety and French bistros. Though you will find sophisticated Cahors with subtle complexities, to me an everyday Cahors is the kind of wine that confidently announces itself with a joyful shout, not a subdued whisper. So look out for Cahors the next time you go to your local wine shop. It may be just the thing for steak grilled on your summer barbeque.