The scene changes every twenty minutes." Leave it to Mr. Wynn to create a new twist on the "restaurant as theater" theme. Previously, the concept referred to the elevated theatricality of the dining experience. However, in Las Vegas patrons expect to be dazzled, and Switch delivers a novel experience. The inspiration for this vibrant, stylish restaurant with its brilliant orange crocodile fabric, Venetian glass murals of large sunflowers, and vividly colored carpets came when Wynn's in-house designer, Roger Thomas, who decided to focus on Switch's location near the flower-filled atrium. If the décor isn't novel enough, Switch also features a bourbon bar paying tribute to this classic American spirit.

Though not a spirits drinker, I came to appreciate good bourbon studying for my diploma for the Wine and Spirits Educational Trust. At Switch Bourbon drinkers have the opportunity to indulge in the world's best boutique bourbons. You will find 23-year-old Rittenhouse Rye, Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve, and infused bourbons with Meyer lemon skin and vanilla.

"Champagne, Madame?" asks the sommelier, wheeling up a gorgeous champagne cart. "A little bubbly to celebrate the moment of the Switch?" "Thanks," I say, still watching the walls and the ceiling change color and theme. It's a bit like sitting in a theater and seeing black-clad stage hands move the set around while you wait for the next scene to begin. Once the walls and ceiling have stabilized, I turn my attention to Marc Poidevin's menu.

We start with a dramatic presentation of a chilled seafood tower, including seasonal oysters, Alaskin king crab legs, bay scallop cerviche, and lobster. If you think gorgeous looking and fresh tasting seafood is all this dish is about, you have the wrong restaurant. In drama nearly equal to the changing of the walls, a white-clad server pours an Aladdin's lamp of dry ice into a vessel near the top of the tower, creating a seductive mist.

We pair this seafood appetizer with various by-the-glass suggestions from Wine Director Desmond Echavarrie, a very charming gentleman who is about to take his Master Sommelier exam. If you read my reviews regularly, you already know that I am mid-way through the Master Sommelier program and have tremendous respect for anyone attempting this incredible test of wine, spirits, and service knowledge. When you make a reservation here, be certain Mr. Echavvarie is in attendance so he can guide you to excellent, well-priced choices in superior vintage years.

For myself, I found the seafood tower paired very well with the 2007 Chablis "Fourchaume-Premier Cru" from J.M. Brocard (Burgundy, France). The Fourchaume vineyard produces delicious, well-balanced chardonnay with a touch of refreshing citrus and a deep mineral character.

After the enormous seafood tower, I don't feel I can enjoy a full dinner, so I order Marc's lobster salad - a light, delicious, and refreshing dish consisting of artichoke, avocado, asparagus, and truffle vinaigrette. However, the seafood starter only whets the appetite of my friend, who orders a seven-ounce filet he pronounces delicious. Switch is not a steakhouse in the purest sense, but the steak here is quite good and you can order New York Strip Steaks, Porterhouse, Veal T-Bones, Hanger steak, and Colorado lamp chops. You can also find a wide variety of pasta and risotto, which is conveniently offered as a side dish.

Seduced by the European ambiance, we decide to order cheese for dessert instead of sweets. Though Switch does not offer a cheese plate on the menu at present, the waiter is more than happy enough to have the kitchen create one for us. It is brought to the table with grapes and toast, and like the French, we enjoy it with the last of our Chateau Les Ormes de Pez 2001 Bordeaux.

Switch is a fantastic experience. You will find the cuisine delicious, and the fun and excitement of the décor change is something you will never forget. If you are bringing a friend, keep the Switch a secret and watch their reaction as the walls come down.

Switch
Wynn Encore Resort
3131 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 770-7000

What Barbie does not yet realize is that the cuisine at Wazuzu is not Asian fusion. Instead, it is Pan Asian Bistro. So, what's the difference? According to Chef Jet Tila, the term refers to Asian food in its purest form. Unlike Asian fusion, which mixes all Asian flavors together, Chef Jet offers dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, China, Korea, and Japan that reflect the spices and flavors of the individual region. Working with Chef Jet, Master Sushi chef Matsuura offers both traditional and innovative sushi and a daily "tank-to-table" special.

Before delving into the cuisine, allow me to set the scene. Wazuzu is gorgeous with vibrant orange silk draperies and distressed bleached wood wall panels, resulting in a look both modern and striking. Barbie looks good here. So does everyone else with the flattering and rather dramatic lighting.

The intimate, yet open room faces the very active casino floor, so you can people-watch the international crowd at the slot machines or peek sideways at your smartly dressed fellow diners. Like virtually all Wynn resort restaurants, the dress code is "resort casual," yet the "Forbidden City" setting motivated me to dress to match the upscale elegance of the room. Possessing an active imagination, I fancy myself a glamorous spy in a 1940s movie. "Cocktail, miss?"

I look up at our young, pink-cheeked server who offers me the cocktail menu designed by Wynn's in-house mixologist, Patricia Richards, who has created nine specialty cocktails inspired by the flavor of Chef Jet's cuisine. I'm told Wazuzu Smash, the restaurant's signature drink, is made with Skyy Vodka, orchid mango liqueur, freshly muddled pineapple, yuzo, calpico, and ginger syrup. Hmm, tempting. But today I am looking for the perfect Asian food and wine pairing.

As an aperitif, I choose Jizake Tenzan Genshu from the nine-item sake. It is bold and rich, with a palate of toasted rice scented with caramel. It pairs quite well with Chef Matsu's Special, seared big eye tuna topped with micro mixed salad, chili ginger sauce, and green scallion oil ($28).

Next, I try three whites with the highly recommended seafood sunomono. This dish is seasonal sashimi (today it included shrimp, octopus, salmon, and vinegar-soaked cucumbers) with Taz Chardonnay (Santa Barbara), Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand), and Dr. Thanish Riesling from Germany's Mosel region. You will find the best pairing is the Sauvignon Blanc (the sharp, pink grapefruit and citrus flavors of the wine match the sharp, clean sunomono), though I appreciated the contrast between the rich, honey and yellow-fleshed fruit flavors of the off-dry Riesling.

Now the delicious Tom Yum Goong Soup (hot, sour, spicy prawn soup with shimeji mushrooms, $14) is made to order. Patrons can choose a spiciness level from one to five. I choose the hottest level, which is a mistake when it comes to wine pairing. Why? One's tongue is so on-fire, beer is the best possible pairing, and you will find six beers/ales on the menu.

As an entree, I encourage you to try Steamed Rockfish with ginger and scallions (market price). It is a whole white-fleshed fish, steamed with the scent of ginger and scallions, and quite toothsome. It was a great match with both the Sauvignon Blanc and the Chardonnay. As an experiment, I also tried it with the Cloudline Pinot Noir from Oregon's Wilamette Valley. This is the best pairing if you like a red wine with fish, yet I must admit that this medium-bodied red overwhelmed the subtle flavors of this incredibly delicious fish.

The Pinot Noir is best paired with the Thai Beef Salad, ($18) a generous and lively presentation of various exotic lettuce and beef in a chili mint dressing. Red wine lovers will also find this salad substantial enough to pair with the Northstar Melot from the Napa valley, with its rich fresh berry flavors, and the Joel Gott Cabernet Sauvignon, which is lighter than the typical California Cab.

Wazuzu's name references a well-known 16th century painting of nine young dragons. Wynn's designer, Roger Thomas, has incorporated a 27-foot, three-dimensional crystal dragon into the decor, which is comprised of 90,000 Swarovski crystals and 24,00 flickering lights. With its dramatic lighting and "lucky charm" ambiance, guests feel as if they are sitting in an exotic jewel box, especially if you are lucky enough to get one of the booths and sofas that look outward toward the casino floor.

Beyond the delicious cuisine, well-chosen wines, and theater-like setting, I love the energy of this place. When I ask to meet Chef Jet, a young energetic man bounds over to my table, enthusiasm for the restaurant and his culinary art readily apparent in his voice. He explains the meaning behind the large golden pear structures around the room (fertility) and why he is so passionate about Pan Asian Bistro cuisine. He had grown up, he explains, working in his family's Los Angeles-based Thai markets and restaurants and wanted to share his take on Asian cuisine with the world. Before we can finish our conversation, Barbie calls Chef Jet over.

"So tell me about what inspired this new Pan Asian Bistro trend..." I hear her eagerly ask, surely excited to be among the first of her foodie friends to experience it.

Wazuzu
Wynn Encore Resort
3131 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 770-7000

Not many foodies are lucky enough to experience the $290 tasting menu at Restaurant Guy Savoy (and that's without tip or tax or wine!)

However, I've been curious to experience it since S. Irene Virbila gave it a mouthwatering review it in the LA Times a few months back. Hence the problem with Irene being such an excellent food reviewer -- no matter how excellent the food and service, the more jaded the diner in terms of similar Michelin-rated restaurants experienced around the globe, the more difficult it will to "wow."

 
And then again, you have the Vegas factor ...it's challenging to be wowed at 9:15 pm on a Sunday night for a three and a half hour "Prestige" tasting menu, especially if you've been shopping in ancient Rome (the Forum shops at Caeser's Palace) and lunched in Venice by the Grand Canal (Venetian), touring the Pyramids and skyline of New York City along the way. Far too much stimulation.

However the cuisine and service was perfect, even though after midnight we were the only ones in the once-full dining room. We ordered Billecart Salmon, Brut Rose champagne with the hors d'oeuvres and sipped it with the oyster in ice gelee and shot glasses of caviar that followed. The light, delicate, pale pink/silver champagne had a frothy mousse and aroma of wild strawberry, framboise, and raspberries, with a racy finish and enough acidity to stand up to the briny oysters.
 
Main lobster with heirloom baby carrots and orange and star anise (excellent, excellent, my favorite dish) and the following course of roasted dover sole with a wild mushroom crust was paired with a rich, dry, mineral infused Domaine Francoise Mikulski Les Poruzots first cru.

Seared foie gras en cocotte, served with autumn winter vegetables, followed by an artichoke and black truffle soup, was paired with a Charles Joguet Close de la Didterie from Chinon in the Loire valley, a dark and smoky wine made from cabernet franc grapes.

And of course, the fantastic cheese selection followed by chocolate fondant.

Ten courses in all, beautifully presented and prepared. Chef Savoy's son Franck came around to welcome us, a very nice gesture, as his father was out of town.

Aside from the late hour one of the key distractions for me, at least in terms of really focusing on the wines and the food, was that I was a guest at this meal of a friend entertaining several clients on business. Stimulating conversation was the purpose of the evening, hence no cameras and no written notes.

On my own dime, I could have questioned waiters about the preparation, make my own wine selections, and taken more copious notes.  So wait until my next trip to Las Vegas, when I'll return and see what their 1500 item wine list is all about! In the meantime, if you'd like to see some of my restaurant reviews for London's Financial Times and other publications, click here.

Just came upon the WineTerroirs web site which, among some interesting tasting notes on the right wine to go with pig (a Cotes du Rhone AOC made by Les Vignerons d'Estezargues) has an unforgettable picture of a pig's head in a pot with some celery!  The dish is called "Fromage de tête", or Pork Brawn, or Head Cheese.

Las Vegas, by the way, was incredible ... in the next few days look for notes on my multi-course wine pairings at Restaurant Guy Savoy and some special bargains tasted at Daniel Boulud ...

More like this at the web site http://www.AWineStory.com

Just came upon the WineTerroirs web site which, among some interesting tasting notes on the right wine to go with pig (a Cotes du Rhone AOC made by Les Vignerons d'Estezargues) has an unforgettable picture of a pig's head in a pot with some celery!  The dish is called "Fromage de tête", or Pork Brawn, or Head Cheese.

Las Vegas, by the way, was incredible ... in the next few days look for notes on my multi-course wine pairings at Restaurant Guy Savoy and some special bargains tasted at Daniel Boulud ...

More like this at the web site http://www.AWineStory.com