Fabulous event today at Christies ... Robin Kelly O'Connor, the new Vice President and head of Wine, Americas, at Christies hosted this event focusing on "The Finest German Wines" (which of course, means Riesling).

Lisa Granik MW acted as moderator for an excellent panel that included Paul Grieco and famed producers Reinhard Lowenstein from Weingut Heymann-Lowenstein and Raimund Prum.

Riesling rocks, and Paul Grieco, the force behind Terroir and Insieme, proved it with the Riesling tattoo on his forearm!
 

Martin Tesch

Today in NYC two of the biggest wine shows came to town, both located at the same time at different ends of the city. Now knowing that Riesling is a white, lower alcohol wine, you may prefer to visit Riesling producers first and leave the more alcoholic, more red varietal Spanish wine for last.

Then again, you might be influenced by the way experts taste in Burgundy, which is red first and then white.

I was able to have an early, more private tasting and seminar with Martin Tesch, whom I met a few years back when Wines of Germany organized a tour. Then - as today - he brought with him glass jars containing the various soils of his appellation.
 

Riesling fans know it is the soil that makes the wine ... last week I blind tasted five Rieslings, each from a different region of the world, and can attest that soil as well as climate are the keys to putting the correct Riesling in its region. Today Mr. Tesch spoke about secrets of keeping balance with a low acidity (it's all about skin contact) and the curious news that international rock stars are now demanding Riesling on their world tours. Perhaps it has something to do with "rock" and roll.

Sherri Weiss Poall from Wines of Germany had one of the most popular tables at the Riesling event - the table was called 1990's - a Decade of Great Rieslings and it feautred Weingut Heitlinger, Baden 1994 Burg Ravensburg Husarenkappe, Braun Nierstein 1996 Riesling Auslese, Weingut Dr. Loosen 1991 Riesling Spatlese, Domanenweingut Schloss Schonborn 1997 Spatlese Riesling, Weingut Max Ferd Richter  1990 Spatlese, and Weingut Okonomierat Schmitt 1990 Spatlese. All were excellent examples of the magic that happens when you have a balanced, aged Riesling.z

For the record, the new trend is doing away with the Gothic letters and making German Rieslings more fun and approachable. The challenge is making the German wine laws more uniform - we will see.

Meanwhile, the Spanish tasting was held in a space near the Museum of Natural History. Excellent showings of whites and reds, and I stopped to steak to a few producers in detail. Javier Banales Vanes from Bodega Otazu always has excellent wines from his Navarra estate. As you can see, the rose (made from Merlot!) was a gorgeous color.
 

javiar Banales

Do you like Riesling wine? If so, the next question would be which type? As you are aware, Riesling can be bone dry or as sweet and thick as honey.

And an even sharper question may be how you prefer your Riesling to be packaged? The scary looking, but traditional, labels with gothic type and un-pronounceable German names like Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg, or something as fun, cool, and simple as “Undone?”

Recently, a representative from P. J. Valckenberg, an exporter, sent me a case of its new vintages, a mixed back in terms of modern and traditional German labels and wine styles. Many of both the modern and traditional labels had screwcap closures, suggesting a concern for freshness and a precaution against cork taint. The winesw ere uniformly quite good, dry in the new style meant to be paired with food. Valckenberg is the oldest family owned wine merchant in Germany, being run by Wilhelm Steifensand, a seventh generation descendant. Royal dynasties and many renowned personalities of the times are Valckenberg customers.

Weingut Bassermann-Jordan Pfalz

Wine: 2008 Bassermann Jordan Estate Riesling trocken

About the Producer: The Jordan Family started Wine Growing in the 18th century Friedrich von Bassermann-Jordan was the author of the seminal work on The History of Wine growing. Very special is the estate’s museum of old wines, starting with an 1706 Forster Ungeheuer. Their winemaker Ullrich Mell is one of the most
respected in Germany

Region /Vineyards:The vines for the Bassermann-Jordan Riesling are planted on the slopes of the “Haardt” mountains, the so-called hills of the western brim of the Rhine valley. The slopes are south-east facing and contain a lot of sandstone in the soil. The vines are in the average 15 years old.

Vintage: Warm weather in spring fostered an early flowering. Summer was typical with no extremes of temperature or storm, but with more rain than in 2007, but equal to the 10-year average. Periodic rainfall delayed picking, but there were enough dry periods to harvest healthy grapes and it paid to wait for ideal ripeness. The wines of vintage 2008 are promising: rich in nuances and substance, complex, very aromatic.

Tasting Notes: Lemon in color, nose of minerals, honey soaked apricots, on the palate dry, medium acidity, with notes of ripe apricots and peaches. Pair this with seafood.

Observations: The label is somewhat classic in style with a modern twist. An illustrated woman is nude beneath a transparent dress. A very versatile wine that will please people who like their Riesling dry as well as a touch sweet.
 

Most wine savvy Riesling connoisseurs know the wines of a few favorite producers, yet vintage variation is such that wines from the same producer may be produced dry in some years, off-dry in others. Service staff at shops and restaurants can certainly offer insight, but realize this individual’s threshold for sweetness may not match your own. For aficionados of bone dry, mineral-rich Riesling, receiving a sweeter-than-expected wine can result in disappointment.

Perhaps this is why the International Riesling Foundation (IRF),in combination with the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance (from the Finger Lakes in Upstate New York), put together a tasting presentation moderated by Master of Wine Mary Ewing-Mulligan (and President of the International Wine Center) comparing Riesling from the Finger Lakes District to other Rieslings around the world. The objective was to showcase the new Riesling Taste Profile created by the IRF, designed to help consumers predict the sweetness level on a particular bottle of Riesling.

During the presentation, mention was made that some educational facilities, such as the Wine & Spirits Educational Trust, taught students to classify Rieslings as either “dry’ or “off dry” or “sweet.” The IRF has created four “styles” of Riesling: dry, medium dry, medium sweet, and sweet, to help winemakers consider which terms to use for their wines.

As you can imagine, just as individuals have difficulties communicating sweetness levels (ask a different sommelier or server what he/she thinks about a sweetness level, you will get many different answers), winemakers -- especially winemakers from other countries -- have different standards of what constitutes “sweet” and “dry.”

This said, Ms. Ewing Mulligan and her team at the International Wine Center tasted several different Rieslings worldwide for this presentation, finding the best examples to put into three categories for the tasting: Dry Rieslings, Medium Rieslings, and Medium Sweet Rieslings.

The first flight of Dry Rieslings included two from the Finger Lakes: a 2007 Lakewood Vineyards Dry Riesling, and a 2007 Ravines Wine Celler Dry Riesling Argetsinger Vineyards. The foreign Rieslings included a 2007 Lucien Albrecht Riesling from Alsace, France, and a 2007 Schloss Golbelsberg “Gobelsburger” Riesling from Langenlois, Austria. Of this flight, I favored the Lakewood Vineyards and found all four good examples of the dry style.

The second flight was Medium Rieslings and included two from the Finger Lakes, including a 2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars Dry Riesling, and a 2007 Atwater Estate Vineyards Dry Riesling. The foreign Riesling was a 2006 Georg Breuer “Charm” Riesling from Germany’s Rheingau region. I liked all wines and thought the Breuer, which was the driest, quite extraordinary.

The last grouping was Medium Sweet Rieslings, and included two Finger Lakes wines, the 2007 Hosmer winery Vintners Reserve, and the 2008 Chateau Fayette Reneau Semi Dry Riesling, along with a Washington State Riesling (Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen “Eroica” Riesling from the Columbia Valley). All were great examples of this type, yet I preferred the Hosmer Winery.

All in all, this was an incredible demonstration of the diversity of Rieslings around the world, and the introduction to a potential worldwide classification system. Science and chemistry, specifically the relationship between acid and sugar, is very much the foundation of this classification system.

In the course of the presentation, many participants were asked to identify the driest of the sweet category, or the sweetest of the dry category. Many participants also vocalized that some of the wines labeled “medium sweet” could pass as dry, and vice versa. These particular “borderline” wines were revealed to also be borderline in terms of the acid/sugar level as well, which would have kicked them up or down in classification if they had less or more than a percentage of a gram of sugar.

Will Riesling-producing countries ever agree on a sugar level? The answer remains to be seen, yet kudos to the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance, the International Riesling Foundation, and Mary Ewing-Mulligan for creating such a fascinating presentation and potential answer to a century-old dilemma.

Both chefs — young, movie star handsome, and enormously talented — are major celebrities in Australia with television shows, cookbooks, and several restaurants in the trendiest areas. Luke Mangan has a restaurant in San Francisco and is opening one in Los Angeles this year. Pete Evans has restaurants in Australia, starred in a television show called FISH, and has just come out with his second cookbook, My Table.

"One goal tonight is for you all to decide which of the two Jacob Creek's wines served with each course is the best pairing," said celebrity winemaker Philip Laffer, recipient of many distinguished accolades, as our intimate group took seats at the gorgeously set table, with its sparkling glasses and gleaming silver cutlery. Laffer was named Australia's Winemaker of the Year in 2002, and many credit him with bringing Australian wine to the export markets.

Sitting here at the table, I can see why. In creating this food and wine pairing dinner, he proves himself an expert communicator, not simply telling us about the wine, but encouraging us on many levels to share our own personal thoughts about the wine through between-course discussions.

For example, consider the first course of steamed Australis Barramundi with lime and coconut sauce. If you are familiar with Barramundi, think about the sauce for a moment and decide two possible white varietal pairings. If one of your choices was Riesling, you are right. In one of my wine classes at the Wine & Spirits Educational Trust, I still remember our instructor reminding us that one key way to blind taste a Riesling is to look for hints of lime, lime, and more lime. This described the Jacob's Creek Steingarten Riesling quite well.

"I already know this wine will pair nicely," I say to the woman next to me, lifting my glass to sip the Australian Riesling 2006. Dry and balanced, it complimented rather than contrasted with the fish. It was quite delicious, bone dry, and as light and delicate as lace. If you drink Rieslings infrequently, you probably have not had a Riesling like this so you are encouraged to try it.

The Jacob's Creek Reeves Point Chardonnay 2004 had a tempting vanilla nose and buttery, pure clean flavor. I thought it paired nicely with the fish, yet not as brilliant a pairing as the Riesling.

For the next course, we enjoyed olive oil poached Greg Norman signature wagyu beef, fragrant pumpkin puree, and asparagus. Now close your eyes, turn on your taste buds, and try to imagine which of the two following wines you would find best with this dish. Would it be the St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, or the Centenary Hill Shiraz 2004?

Our table was nearly divided into two on this. I could not predict as well as I did with the fish, but I liked the cab much better. The meat was delicate, and the pumpkin softened it further, making the arrangement just right for a soft cab. The Shiraz, with its sharp spicy notes, though delicious, might have been a better match for a less delicate meat like grilled steak.

What is a meal without cheese - especially now that I have a diploma in fromage from Artisinal cheese in New York. Looking good on our plates were a selection of King Island cheeses such as seal Bay triple cream brie, Roaring Forties blue, Stokes Point smoked cheddar with Maggie beer quince paste, and Pastilla Nash Sugar Plum & Walnut log.

I enjoyed the Johann Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 paired with this dish, yet thought this Shiraz would have been wonderful paired with the wagyu. Dessert was quite a production - an elaborate mini lamington with coconut anglaise and chocolate opera.

I really enjoyed meeting Jacob's Creek winemaker, Philip Laffer, meeting the two creative chefs Mangan and Evans, and came away with the following take-away points.

1. Australian wines are a great value. Too many Americans associate them with inexpensive, mass market, fruit-forward wines without finesse, but Jacob's Creek proves wines can be affordable and have quality.

2. It will be fun to offer two wines with each course of your next dinner party, as it focuses attention on both the food and the wine, and provides lively discussion.

3. The Jacob's Creek Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV served during appetizers impressed me. Though this under $15 sparkler is not made in the traditional method used in champagne, it was delicious and quite balanced.

Happy sipping!

Both chefs — young, movie star handsome, and enormously talented — are major celebrities in Australia with television shows, cookbooks, and several restaurants in the trendiest areas. Luke Mangan has a restaurant in San Francisco and is opening one in Los Angeles this year. Pete Evans has restaurants in Australia, starred in a television show called FISH, and has just come out with his second cookbook, My Table.

"One goal tonight is for you all to decide which of the two Jacob Creek's wines served with each course is the best pairing," said celebrity winemaker Philip Laffer, recipient of many distinguished accolades, as our intimate group took seats at the gorgeously set table, with its sparkling glasses and gleaming silver cutlery. Laffer was named Australia's Winemaker of the Year in 2002, and many credit him with bringing Australian wine to the export markets.

Sitting here at the table, I can see why. In creating this food and wine pairing dinner, he proves himself an expert communicator, not simply telling us about the wine, but encouraging us on many levels to share our own personal thoughts about the wine through between-course discussions.

For example, consider the first course of steamed Australis Barramundi with lime and coconut sauce. If you are familiar with Barramundi, think about the sauce for a moment and decide two possible white varietal pairings. If one of your choices was Riesling, you are right. In one of my wine classes at the Wine & Spirits Educational Trust, I still remember our instructor reminding us that one key way to blind taste a Riesling is to look for hints of lime, lime, and more lime. This described the Jacob's Creek Steingarten Riesling quite well.

"I already know this wine will pair nicely," I say to the woman next to me, lifting my glass to sip the Australian Riesling 2006. Dry and balanced, it complimented rather than contrasted with the fish. It was quite delicious, bone dry, and as light and delicate as lace. If you drink Rieslings infrequently, you probably have not had a Riesling like this so you are encouraged to try it.

The Jacob's Creek Reeves Point Chardonnay 2004 had a tempting vanilla nose and buttery, pure clean flavor. I thought it paired nicely with the fish, yet not as brilliant a pairing as the Riesling.

For the next course, we enjoyed olive oil poached Greg Norman signature wagyu beef, fragrant pumpkin puree, and asparagus. Now close your eyes, turn on your taste buds, and try to imagine which of the two following wines you would find best with this dish. Would it be the St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, or the Centenary Hill Shiraz 2004?

Our table was nearly divided into two on this. I could not predict as well as I did with the fish, but I liked the cab much better. The meat was delicate, and the pumpkin softened it further, making the arrangement just right for a soft cab. The Shiraz, with its sharp spicy notes, though delicious, might have been a better match for a less delicate meat like grilled steak.

What is a meal without cheese - especially now that I have a diploma in fromage from Artisinal cheese in New York. Looking good on our plates were a selection of King Island cheeses such as seal Bay triple cream brie, Roaring Forties blue, Stokes Point smoked cheddar with Maggie beer quince paste, and Pastilla Nash Sugar Plum & Walnut log.

I enjoyed the Johann Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 paired with this dish, yet thought this Shiraz would have been wonderful paired with the wagyu. Dessert was quite a production - an elaborate mini lamington with coconut anglaise and chocolate opera.

I really enjoyed meeting Jacob's Creek winemaker, Philip Laffer, meeting the two creative chefs Mangan and Evans, and came away with the following take-away points.

1. Australian wines are a great value. Too many Americans associate them with inexpensive, mass market, fruit-forward wines without finesse, but Jacob's Creek proves wines can be affordable and have quality.

2. It will be fun to offer two wines with each course of your next dinner party, as it focuses attention on both the food and the wine, and provides lively discussion.

3. The Jacob's Creek Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV served during appetizers impressed me. Though this under $15 sparkler is not made in the traditional method used in champagne, it was delicious and quite balanced.

Happy sipping!

“Nature or nurture,” you might ask, wondering about the temperament of a child or the elements that go into a particularly delicious, well balanced wine. Today’s wine world is often a hotbed of deception. For example, if you find yourself admiring the buttery, oak-y aroma and palate of an affordable Chardonnay, watch out! You very well might be sampling a “Frankenwine” in which oak chips had been placed into a steel vat of Chardonnay to replicate real wood aging.

Traditional German Riesling relies a great deal on the soil to give the wine its character, aroma, palate, and structure. Towards that end, one of the objectives of producers who specialize in dry Riesling is to have the wine express the minerality and nature of the vineyard. The more minerals and volcanic soil in the vineyard, the better the wine. Combine this with other factors, such as a steep slope, southern-facing exposure, and proximity to the Rhine to moderate the climate and reflect the sun, and you have the makings of a top vineyard.

As mineral-rich soil is paramount to creating a quality wine, top German producers focus their efforts in the vineyard, preferring to tamper as little as possible with the vinification process. Patience is also a virtue, as the most respected and valuable grape variety, Riesling, ripens so late an October harvest is common. Keeping grapes healthy and flourishing during the long growing season from spring to near-fall is always a challenge.

One of the most famous names in the Riesling world, Weingut (winemaker) Helmut Dönnhoff operates from the Nahe region of Germany. From his many soil-specific vineyards, he offers a superb selection of dry and off-dry wines, universally prized for their balance, structure, and intense minerality. An attractive and elegant man with an air of calm confidence, Helmut Dönnhoff focuses on coaxing the best expression of the Riesling grape from vineyards famed for centuries for their volcanic soil and variety of minerals.

You do not need to be a Riesling scholar in order to immediately understand the power, beauty, and balance of Dönnhoff’s wine. Even if you are new to the Riesling grape varietal, you'll notice at first sip that these wines have a delicious and subtle balance between the fruit and acidity hard to find anywhere else. Dönnhoff and critics are quick to attribute this to the soil, especially of the Hermannshohle vineyard, as well as the well-positioned aspect of the vineyard which is on a steep slope which receives a great deal of sun.

As Dönnhoff explains his philosophy on winemaking, he reveals the winery does not have a web site. Why not, you wonder? Doesn’t he need to sell his wine? As it turns out, the wine is strictly allocated and he does not produce enough wine to meet the demand. Well, why not make more? After all, it’s the American way. Refreshingly, Dönnhoff takes a more European view. Life is to be enjoyed. All is well as is, so why change?

Weingut Dönnhoff
Bahnhofstrasse 11, 55585 Oberhausen a. d. Nahe
Phone: +49 (0)6755-263, Fax: +49 (0)6755-1067
weingut@doennhoff.com

In Germany, the word “schloss” means castle or “manor house.” These are historic structures, many first built during the Roman times near the very best vineyards in the land. The idea was to create a grand estate to showcase the quality of the vineyards and the wine.

With wineries in San Ynez, California considered old at twenty, a 650-year-old winery seems very ancient indeed. Yet this is the age of Schloss Schonborn in Germany’s Rheingau region, which goes back to 1349. Owned by Paul Graf von Schonborn-Wiesentheid, it is the largest family owned estate in the Rheingau comprising some 125 acres (50 hectares) of top vineyard sites. The winery has recently been modernized with stainless steel tanks. Many of the wines produced here make their way to Asia and North America so look for the brand on your wine store shelf.

What makes the Riesling of Schloss Schonborn special are the south facing vineyards which face the Rheingau river, reflecting the sun and warming the vines. The family had been active in the Catholic church for centuries, hence their ability to get the best vineyard sites.

Visit the ancient, dust- and spider web-covered cellars and you realize that some of the very old bottles inside have survived the Napoleonic wars, the Franco-Prussian War, WWI, and WWII. Many of the bottles date from 1735, and our host, Peter Barth, technical director, describes that they have held up well over the last three centuries.

Weingut Schloss Schönborn
Contact: Herr von den Benken
Hauptstr. 53, 65347 Hattenheim
Phone: +49 (0)6723-91810, Fax: +49 (0)6723-918191
schloss-schoenborn@schoenborn.de

Schloss Vollrads is another ancient castle, dating from the 14th century. Wine is produced and sold here, with the added benefit of the castle estate open to the public as a venue to eat in its stellar restaurant, hold a business conference, or stage a wedding.

The restaurant, I might add, is fabulous. You can find both German and continental cuisine, prepared with as much attention to detail as a five-star restaurant in Manhattan. Service is quite formal, with our servers seeming to pride themselves on getting everything just right. And, of course, the view is magical. A couple dining at another table, who looked to be first-time daters, seemed visibly carried away by the cuisine, view, and ambiance.

At the heart of the palace complex is a majestic tower surrounded by a rectangular moat that is only accessible by bridge. The greater part of Schloss Vollrads as its stands today is the work of architect Johann Erwein, and the many armorial designs decorating the farm buildings, the cavalier’s house, and the gateway to the garden bear witness to his remarkable building activity. The most recent alterations to the palace were initiated in 1907-1908 by Countess Clara Matuschka-Greiffenclau, whose family tree can be traced back to 1097. Many of the Greiffenclau family were prominent personalities who served as patrons of the arts, as well as archbishops and electors of Mainz and Trier, and prince bishops of Würzburg. Today the estate is owned by the Nassauische Sparkasse (Nassau Savings Bank) dedicated to carrying on the estate’s great viticultural tradition.

Schloss Vollrads
Contact: Hans-Joachim Binz, Rowald Hepp
65375 Oestrich-Winkel
Phone: +49 (0)6723-660, Fax: +49 (0)6723-6666
info@schllossvollrads.com

Some German wine makers offer you a tutored tasting of their latest vintage, explaining the wines as you both taste in unison. Dr. Franz Werner Michel welcomes guests to his Hochheim estate with a lineup of his premiere Riesling wines and invites them to taste and make notes on their own time. When guests are finished, the discussion begins.

"Riesling pure" is the philosophy of the estate, particularly since Hochheim is credited for the worldwide first documentation of Riesling in history some 550 years ago. The Riesling wines are rich in high mineral content due to the soil, and two types of Riesling are made. The first is a classic fruity style with overwhelming richness of elegant fruit and spiciness, and the second is a dry style with good substance and a moderate, harmonious acidity.

Dr. Michel, a handsome man in a tweed jacket, looks and conducts himself like a college professor, not particularly surprising for he had been the director at Geisenheim University. He has a natural elegance and charming manner that Americans might best associate with the classy, well-mannered, European aristocrats sometimes seen in black and white classic films.

The winery got its start in 1780, when the renowned "Domdechant" (dean) of the Cathedral of Mainz acquired the Hochheim wine estate from the Count York. Domdechant Werner is credited with having saved the cathedral from being demolished during the French Revolution and was responsible for its reconstruction.

Visits typically begin with an introduction to the area on Dr. Michel’s pretty flower-covered porch, as he explains the soils and latitude of his grand cru vineyards which are known in German as "erstes gewächs" or “first growth.” The vineyards are planted to Riesling (98%) and Spätburgunder or Pinot Noir (2%) and all are located on gentle slopes facing south with chalky soils rich in minerals. According to the estate's chronicle, its wines were sold at auction as early as 1795.

The single vineyard names appearing on the bottlings are Domdechaney, Kirchenstück, Hölle, Stein, Stielweg, and Reichestal. Riesling takes dramatically different form depending on which vineyard it is from. In the sweeter styles, I preferred grapes grown on Domdechaney, whereas for drier styles I preferred Kirchenstück. Dr. Michel is eager to hear the preferences of guests, and answer any questions he can.

Describing the house is as essential as describing their award-winning Riesling, as it is a gorgeous yellow structure seemingly plucked right out of a fairy tale, with flowers everywhere. Inside are mounted oil paintings of serious looking ancestors (many of them clergy), antiques, and many lovingly framed black and white pictures of family members from the 18th and 19th centuries. During my visit, I also meet the toddler generation who will surely be running the winery in twenty years time.

You can find this fantastic wine on the shelves of your favorite wine store, or buy from an online shop. Better yet, book a flight to Germany and set up a meeting with Dr. Werner in advance. The opportunity to taste and discuss wines with this most knowledgeable and gracious gentleman is an experience you will never forget.

Domdechant Werner´sches Weingut
Contact: Dr. Franz W. Michel
Rathausstr.30, 65239 Hochheim
P.O.Box 1205, 65234 Hochheim
Phone: +49 (0)6146-835037, Fax: +49 (0)6146-835038
weingut@domdechantwerner.com

“When your first name is Jakob, you have no choice but to go into the family business,” says Jakob Schneider Jr. with a charming smile, the youngest in a long line of Weingut Jakob Schneiders in the Nahe region of Germany.

In his mid-twenties, Jakob is an enthusiastic, engaging, strong-shouldered individual who comes across as an icon for the new winemaking generation of Germany, most of whom have been educated in enology and are bringing modern winemaking practices to their family wine estates. Of course, Jakob was lucky enough to have been born into a family that owns two prized hectares of Niederhauser Hermannshohle, one of the most legendary vineyards in the region. In Germany, soil is the key to quality wine, so if all goes according to plan, the family has essentially been given a license to print money.

Jakob, however, is not one to rest on his laurels. He works hard, during harvest almost twenty hours a day, and finds it difficult to find workers who share his dedication. When he tried to recruit some of his former classmates at the wine university Geisenheim, they found the work too taxing and the hours too intense. “A lot of my former classmates went on to cushy marketing jobs,” he tells me with a laugh.

The Schneider family has been making wine since 1575, an eternity by American standards. Curious to know if any family relics remain, Jakob is quick to jump up and show me an ancient family bible from a cabinet, its leather cover bent with age, its pages yellowed and weathered. Almost as old as the family bible is the cellar, the ancient, rounded, stone entrance of which looks like the Hollywood set of a horror film. Yet this juxtaposition of old (the bible, the cellar) and the new (stainless steel tanks, glass wine closures) is what makes Weingut Schneider so interesting and fun to watch.

As we sit in the living room tasting a variety of Riesling wines, both dry and off-dry, Jakob’s mother and grandmother generously serve a little snack of liverwurst. Despite the family’s fame and prosperity, winemaking here is very much a family affair, with Jakob’s mother the accountant and grandmother Liesel Schneider handling customer service.

If you are in the wine world, you might find it interesting to know that Weingut Jakob Schneider is a Thierry Thiese selection. Thiese, an importer specializing in Germany, is well known to be a keen judge of quality. In his catalogue, Thiese speaks of Weingut Schneider with enthusiasm, already praising young Jakob with his innovative ideas and predicting even greater triumphs for the winery down the line. Indeed, the wines I tasted were extremely good, and though dry wines are more my personal preference, I felt that the off-dry wines were a better expression of the vineyards.

The 2007 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese is particularly delicious and well balanced, with bright, racy acidity. On your next visit to Germany, be sure to make an appointment to meet the Schneiders and taste the wine. Or, if you can’t make it to Germany, just pick up a bottle at your favorite wine store and as you taste, consider its four centuries of winemaking history.

Weingut Jakob Schneider Contact: Herr Jakob Schneider jun. Winzerstr. 14 – 15, 55585 Niederhausen Phone: +49 (0)6758-93533 info@schneider-wein.com