Is it true the postman always rings twice? Have you .,,, er, gone postal lately?  Just what is it about the postal service that creates the potential for such drama?

Last night I had a fun meeting/tasting with Kim Longbottom, who with her husband bought property in the Australian region of Padthaway, part of the Limestone Coast in the southeast of South Australia.  Now I'm not sure Kim has ever been in advertising (you know the types, from the Mad Men TV series) yet she is incredibly creative and witty, and knows enough about marketing to realize that 'you gotta have a story.'

This is especially true in today's wine world, where brand creation and recognition is key.  So Kim cleverly tied the story of the wine around the life of a long ago postman named Henry.  When I inquired if there was anything juicy or especialy interesting about Henry Kim paused, as if thinking up a fun story.

Well, we know Henry was real and maybe one day Kim might sponsor a contest where someone could win a case of wine for making up the highlights of his life. For now, let's just say that the entire winery offers brands revolving around a postman theme, which range from young, easy drinking reds and whites to complex, concentrated Cabernet Savignons, Bordeaux-style blends, and Shiraz.

Joining myself and Kim is winemaker Renae Hirsch, who had been tasting with sommeliers earlier. Our tasting begins with “The Postmistress” Blanc de Blanc, a sparkling wine made from 100% Chardonnay. Then we have “Morse Code Chardonnay,” a barely oaked style that is clean and linear.

Of course, my interest was firmly planted in the reds, as Australia is Shiraz’s natural home. Now the Morse Code Shiraz is their entry level wine, sourced from the Estate’s Padthaway vineyards. The soils in this area are varied, including red loam, black loam, and deep sod over limestone. The 2009 vintage is quite the bargain considering the terroir.

The Shiraz/Cabernet/Merlot blend is called Pillar Box Red, with aromas of blueberry, licorice, and dried mint. Kim tells me it is named after the red postal boxes that used to dot the Australian landscape.

I like the Pillar Box Reserve Shiraz. It is black and inky and looks and, to some degree, palate, which always tips me off in blind tasting I am about to encounter a new world Shiraz/Syrah. The wine has lots of concentrated rich fruit, and this wonderful black licorice component.

Would the modern equivalent of the ’08 “Dead Letter Office” Shiraz be a returned email? (joke!) The flavor is so rich and concentrated I ask Renae if it is old vines, and she says not. The fruit comes from the vineyards grown in red loamy soil over limestone, and it is barrel-fermented and matured in oak for 12 months.

The perception about Australian wine in the United States is that it is very fruit forward and high in alcohol. Though these wines were on the higher end of the alcohol spectrum, they were balanced and, for the higher end wines, displayed much elegance and finesse These had body and muscle that seemed to represent the terroir and skills of the winemaker.

The postal theme is very clever, and Henry – wherever he is – must surely feel honored. One smiles to think of the time, in the very near future, when a young consumer points to the red letter box and asks a store clerk or sommelier what it means. “Before email, people had to write things on paper and a postal worker would deliver it by hand,” would be the likely answer. Thank you, Kim, for producing such quality wine to commemorate your excellent terroir and its many stories.

Now if you are a Master of Wine student and fine wine writer, receiving an invitation to hear Master Sommelier / Master of Wine Doug Frost speak is a command that must be obeyed. Beyond the hard-won titles that attest to years of intense study, Doug Frost is a very nice, approachable guy and actually the perfect one to represent Yellow tail in a tasting as the reputation of Yellow tail is that of an easy, approachable wine.

John Casella, Managing Director for Casella Wines (whose father created Casella Wines) was present to observe the tasting and add colorful bits about his family's incredible history from italy to Australia many years earlier, and the multitude of tiny decisions that resulted in this multi-million dollar, instantly recognizable Yellow tail brand.

Table

Now the afternoon began with a blind tasting of two flights of wines, four flights each. Flight one consisted of yellow tail Reserve Shiraz 2008 from Southeastern Australia ($11), d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2006, McLaren Vale, Australia ($60), Marquis Philips Shiraz 2008, McLaren Vale, Australia ($13) and Archetype Shiraz 2007 Barossa, Australia $15.

Guests - all very highly educated wine journalists and sommeliers - were asked to write tasting notes before the wines were revealed.

The second flight consisted of Mollydooker Maitre'd Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Southeastern Australia, ($11), yellow tail Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Southeastern Australia ($11), Layer Cake Malbec 2008 Mendoza, Argentina ($14), and Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 South Australia $16.

Lobster

It was interesting to compare these (mostly) Australian wines in terms of style -- when Mr. Casella spoke about yellow tail, he reinforced that "fruit, fullness, and freshness" were what the wines were meant to be all about. The wines were created to be great tasting wines that went well with many foods. Today Casella Wines exports in excess of eleven million cases a year, popular in over forty countries.

Both chefs — young, movie star handsome, and enormously talented — are major celebrities in Australia with television shows, cookbooks, and several restaurants in the trendiest areas. Luke Mangan has a restaurant in San Francisco and is opening one in Los Angeles this year. Pete Evans has restaurants in Australia, starred in a television show called FISH, and has just come out with his second cookbook, My Table.

"One goal tonight is for you all to decide which of the two Jacob Creek's wines served with each course is the best pairing," said celebrity winemaker Philip Laffer, recipient of many distinguished accolades, as our intimate group took seats at the gorgeously set table, with its sparkling glasses and gleaming silver cutlery. Laffer was named Australia's Winemaker of the Year in 2002, and many credit him with bringing Australian wine to the export markets.

Sitting here at the table, I can see why. In creating this food and wine pairing dinner, he proves himself an expert communicator, not simply telling us about the wine, but encouraging us on many levels to share our own personal thoughts about the wine through between-course discussions.

For example, consider the first course of steamed Australis Barramundi with lime and coconut sauce. If you are familiar with Barramundi, think about the sauce for a moment and decide two possible white varietal pairings. If one of your choices was Riesling, you are right. In one of my wine classes at the Wine & Spirits Educational Trust, I still remember our instructor reminding us that one key way to blind taste a Riesling is to look for hints of lime, lime, and more lime. This described the Jacob's Creek Steingarten Riesling quite well.

"I already know this wine will pair nicely," I say to the woman next to me, lifting my glass to sip the Australian Riesling 2006. Dry and balanced, it complimented rather than contrasted with the fish. It was quite delicious, bone dry, and as light and delicate as lace. If you drink Rieslings infrequently, you probably have not had a Riesling like this so you are encouraged to try it.

The Jacob's Creek Reeves Point Chardonnay 2004 had a tempting vanilla nose and buttery, pure clean flavor. I thought it paired nicely with the fish, yet not as brilliant a pairing as the Riesling.

For the next course, we enjoyed olive oil poached Greg Norman signature wagyu beef, fragrant pumpkin puree, and asparagus. Now close your eyes, turn on your taste buds, and try to imagine which of the two following wines you would find best with this dish. Would it be the St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, or the Centenary Hill Shiraz 2004?

Our table was nearly divided into two on this. I could not predict as well as I did with the fish, but I liked the cab much better. The meat was delicate, and the pumpkin softened it further, making the arrangement just right for a soft cab. The Shiraz, with its sharp spicy notes, though delicious, might have been a better match for a less delicate meat like grilled steak.

What is a meal without cheese - especially now that I have a diploma in fromage from Artisinal cheese in New York. Looking good on our plates were a selection of King Island cheeses such as seal Bay triple cream brie, Roaring Forties blue, Stokes Point smoked cheddar with Maggie beer quince paste, and Pastilla Nash Sugar Plum & Walnut log.

I enjoyed the Johann Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 paired with this dish, yet thought this Shiraz would have been wonderful paired with the wagyu. Dessert was quite a production - an elaborate mini lamington with coconut anglaise and chocolate opera.

I really enjoyed meeting Jacob's Creek winemaker, Philip Laffer, meeting the two creative chefs Mangan and Evans, and came away with the following take-away points.

1. Australian wines are a great value. Too many Americans associate them with inexpensive, mass market, fruit-forward wines without finesse, but Jacob's Creek proves wines can be affordable and have quality.

2. It will be fun to offer two wines with each course of your next dinner party, as it focuses attention on both the food and the wine, and provides lively discussion.

3. The Jacob's Creek Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV served during appetizers impressed me. Though this under $15 sparkler is not made in the traditional method used in champagne, it was delicious and quite balanced.

Happy sipping!

Both chefs — young, movie star handsome, and enormously talented — are major celebrities in Australia with television shows, cookbooks, and several restaurants in the trendiest areas. Luke Mangan has a restaurant in San Francisco and is opening one in Los Angeles this year. Pete Evans has restaurants in Australia, starred in a television show called FISH, and has just come out with his second cookbook, My Table.

"One goal tonight is for you all to decide which of the two Jacob Creek's wines served with each course is the best pairing," said celebrity winemaker Philip Laffer, recipient of many distinguished accolades, as our intimate group took seats at the gorgeously set table, with its sparkling glasses and gleaming silver cutlery. Laffer was named Australia's Winemaker of the Year in 2002, and many credit him with bringing Australian wine to the export markets.

Sitting here at the table, I can see why. In creating this food and wine pairing dinner, he proves himself an expert communicator, not simply telling us about the wine, but encouraging us on many levels to share our own personal thoughts about the wine through between-course discussions.

For example, consider the first course of steamed Australis Barramundi with lime and coconut sauce. If you are familiar with Barramundi, think about the sauce for a moment and decide two possible white varietal pairings. If one of your choices was Riesling, you are right. In one of my wine classes at the Wine & Spirits Educational Trust, I still remember our instructor reminding us that one key way to blind taste a Riesling is to look for hints of lime, lime, and more lime. This described the Jacob's Creek Steingarten Riesling quite well.

"I already know this wine will pair nicely," I say to the woman next to me, lifting my glass to sip the Australian Riesling 2006. Dry and balanced, it complimented rather than contrasted with the fish. It was quite delicious, bone dry, and as light and delicate as lace. If you drink Rieslings infrequently, you probably have not had a Riesling like this so you are encouraged to try it.

The Jacob's Creek Reeves Point Chardonnay 2004 had a tempting vanilla nose and buttery, pure clean flavor. I thought it paired nicely with the fish, yet not as brilliant a pairing as the Riesling.

For the next course, we enjoyed olive oil poached Greg Norman signature wagyu beef, fragrant pumpkin puree, and asparagus. Now close your eyes, turn on your taste buds, and try to imagine which of the two following wines you would find best with this dish. Would it be the St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, or the Centenary Hill Shiraz 2004?

Our table was nearly divided into two on this. I could not predict as well as I did with the fish, but I liked the cab much better. The meat was delicate, and the pumpkin softened it further, making the arrangement just right for a soft cab. The Shiraz, with its sharp spicy notes, though delicious, might have been a better match for a less delicate meat like grilled steak.

What is a meal without cheese - especially now that I have a diploma in fromage from Artisinal cheese in New York. Looking good on our plates were a selection of King Island cheeses such as seal Bay triple cream brie, Roaring Forties blue, Stokes Point smoked cheddar with Maggie beer quince paste, and Pastilla Nash Sugar Plum & Walnut log.

I enjoyed the Johann Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 paired with this dish, yet thought this Shiraz would have been wonderful paired with the wagyu. Dessert was quite a production - an elaborate mini lamington with coconut anglaise and chocolate opera.

I really enjoyed meeting Jacob's Creek winemaker, Philip Laffer, meeting the two creative chefs Mangan and Evans, and came away with the following take-away points.

1. Australian wines are a great value. Too many Americans associate them with inexpensive, mass market, fruit-forward wines without finesse, but Jacob's Creek proves wines can be affordable and have quality.

2. It will be fun to offer two wines with each course of your next dinner party, as it focuses attention on both the food and the wine, and provides lively discussion.

3. The Jacob's Creek Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV served during appetizers impressed me. Though this under $15 sparkler is not made in the traditional method used in champagne, it was delicious and quite balanced.

Happy sipping!

Australian scientists say they have identified the substance that gives some red wines a distinctive peppery aroma. Until recently, the aroma (found in fuller-bodied wines made from shiraz or cabernet sauvignon grapes) was until now assumed to be linked with climate. Certain wine-growing areas, such as the Barossa Valley in South Australia, seemed to yield reds with that characteristic.

Researchers now say the aroma emanates from a single compound, known as alpha-ylangene, and previously unrecognised.  The discovery might enable wine-makers to control the bouquet of reds, in the same way that they alter a wine's characteristics with different yeast varieties or oak barrel fermentation.

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