Ah, the New World!

I've just received box of wines from this winery and since my wine studies have been so Old World focused, always delighted to receive California wines. Here are some tasting notes. 

Frei Brothers Reserve Merlot 2007 Dry Creek Valley

Smooth and rich, with rounded flavors of plums ripening in the sun. Very balanced acid and tannin, with the ripe, rich fruit showing through with every sip. A hint of vanilla from barrel aging.

From the web site, I learn the winemaker's goal is to produce a wine that represents the Dry Creek Valley terroir. The grapes are de-stemmed, but not crushed to retain a significant portion of whole berries for fermentation so as to produce more concentrated dark fruit flavors. After fermentation, 100% of the wine completes malolactic fermentation to soften the acids and add complexity.

Frei Brothers Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2006

Dream cab (my expression) though from very ripe vintage. Intense flavors -- blackcurrants, blackberries, spice, vanilla, graphite, mocha, and a hint of mint. Excellent concentration of flavors and comlexity, especially for the price. Pair with steak.

On the web, winemaker says that what typifies the Alexander Valley appellation is its "endless sun drenched days," which contribute to creating the region's signature concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon style. If you are a wine geek, you may be interested to know that "the 2007 growing season began with a dry spring that brought about early budbreak. The mild weather throughout the summer months combined with cool nights resulted in a smaller fruit set than usual. However, a heat wave in early September that lasted almost two weeks ripened grapes quickly. Temperatures cooled down in mid September and set a good pace for the rest of harvest. By the end of harvest, the 2007 wine grape crop was much smaller than in previous years but the quality was exceptional."

"The grapes for our Cabernet Sauvignon were gently destemmed but not crushed, sending a significant number of whole berries to be fermented. The must received 8-10 days of skin contact to extract intense color and flavor before it was inoculated with D254 and Bordeaux yeast strains for primary fermentation. Upright and horizontal rotary fermentors and cone sweep tanks were used to gently mix a portion of the juice and skins to prevent tannic bitterness. Temperatures were closely monitored and kept at approximately 85º during fermentation to yield a richer, rounder mouthfeel and body. After primary fermentation, the wine completed malolactic fermentation to soften the acid structure and to add complexity."

And yes, if you read my first paragraph, I thought the wine was really well made.

Frei Brothes Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2007

I had a craving for Sauvignon Blanc (SB) so I opened the 2007 Russian River Valley first. In a blind tasting, I feel fairly certain I could pick this out as a new world SB -- it has an initial 'old world' feeling in terms of the minerals and softer fruit and acidity, yet the higher alcohol is here at 13.5. People who find zesty New Zealand style wines too jarring will prefer this softer style, with a floral nose and ripe fruit.

I read on the web site the Sauvignon Blanc grapes are whole cluster pressed to eliminate bitterness and to maximize fresh fruit characters. Half of these grapes are oak aged in prior-used French barrels for 2 months to impart very subtle oak flavors. During this same time, the wine undergoes sur-lie aging to add a layer of complexity.

Syrah Reserve 2007 

Very good - rich and powerful. The nose is intense with spice and ripe red fruit. The palate is filled with jammy red fruit, spice, and vanilla - a very good integration of flavors. Very smooth and concentrated.

According to the winemaker: "The signature cooling maritime influences of the Russian River Valley serve to balance its warm days with cool refreshing evenings and fog cloaked mornings. This unique microclimate allows for the slow and even maturation of fruit, developing distinct flavors in our wines which reflect this great Sonoma terroir. The summer of 2007 was dry, with no rain to threaten rot or mildew. In addition, the classic Russian River Valley morning fog made a frequent appearance but burned off in the early afternoon. This gave the grapes the best of both worlds: warm sunshine to develop ripe flavors and cool temperatures to maintain acidity in the fruit. The 2007 weather closely mirrored the historical averages of temperatures for the region. These averages were notable because there were no major heat spells or cold snaps, just steady, cool-climate temperatures that create a perfect environment for growing world-class Syrah grapes.

Final thoughts from Marisa

I really liked all the wines in the line ... they are very good value for the money and are quite delicious. I also think it is helpful when the winemaker cares enough to provide extensive notes about the growing season and vinification.

Salute!

Chardonnay is everyone's favorite grape ... it can take on so many expessions. Increasingly, you should recognize that many old world producers, especially in Macon, are edging towards new world appellations in style while some new world producers are trying to emulate old world producers. 

So for those of us who appreciate the apple pie a la mode style of Chardonnay, often referred to as the California style, I am now tasting the 2007 William Hill from the Napa Valley. Yes, it is buttery, with oak, and to me a slight tange of cinammon and other spice. Yet the flavors are "real" (as opposed to being fabricated, more on that in another post) with good concentration of fruit, complexity of flavors, typicity of the region (California, you got that right), and balance between the fruit, acid, and oak.  

On the nose you will find vanilla scented butter and aromas you might associate with an apple orchid in an extended harvest (very ripe fruit). On the palate, quality dry wine with medium acidity and body, and an elegant flavors of vanilla, ripe apples, and the nuances that come with oak aging.

Pair with a dish such as sole with a vanilla foam as the vanilla in the foam (or sauce) will really pick up on the vanilla flavors in the wine. If you run a wine store and are thinking of what the customer wants, this is a good suggestion when the guest walks in and demands a good buttery California Chardonnay. You will also find it a crowd pleaser for a holiday such as Thanksgiving, both when friends and family walk in the door and as an appropriate white meat pairing.

The winemaker Ralf Holdenried was kind enough to send me a note with the wine, saying the grapes were hand harvested at night (important as it keeps the grapes fresh), pressed as whole clusters, and after racking, inoculated with yeast to inintiate primary fermentation. Afterwards, maloactic fermentation and aging in French and American oak barreels on lees. 

Ralf also said that since Gallo took over the property in 2007 and he became winemaker, he's been making many improvements in the vineyard and winery. This is the first wholly original release. He says he's been turning to different growers for fruit, who are able to ripen grapes completely yet retain good acidity. He sounds like he wants to be very connected to end consumers, so I hope to interview him about this and get back to you soon.
 

Eric Titus

Tonight I had dinner with Eric Titus of Titus Vineyards in the Napa Valley and talked about his Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Sauvignon Blanc while tasting through several flights. The dinner was held at the illustrious Jean-George Vongerichten restaurant Perry Street, which is very hip and cool (think white on white theme, with floor to ceiling windows looking out to the river, white sofas, white chairs, white tables, very clean and flavorful cuisine ....) 

For wine journalists, it is always fun to meet the maker of the wines, instead of just tasting it. One could say it is almost like the ability to meet with a long gone author or musician, and understand more about the foundation of their book or music via the force of their personality.

Eric is very forthcoming and honest, much like his wines. He went to high school in St Helena in the Napa Valley, along with other children of wine makers (his parents bought the vineyard in 1969 and sold their grapes) and also the children of people who serviced the vineyard. When he said he worked the vineyards during summers and after school, I had to ask if it was a passion or a work ethic instilled by his parents. I'm sure you can guess the answer, as Eric pursued studies in marine biology over a curriculum in viticulture and enology. He earned his doctorate in biology and embarked on a ten-year career in marine biological research and environmental consulting. After working in such varied locations as Honolulu, Baltimore and San Francisco, and Guam he returned to St. Helena during the heralded 1997 vintage. With the Titus Vineyards wine production steadily increasing and the vineyards in need of redevelopment, Eric came to work full-time for the family wine business. He now divides his time between managing vineyard operations and the overseeing the business side of the winery.

Now the Sauvignon Blanc is a fabulous wine, with an aroma of grapefruit pith and palate of the same. I found it far weightier than other Sauvignon Blancs, with very good expression of the terrior and the ability to match slightly heavier foods such as slow cooked Branzino. I adored the Cabernet Franc -- the absolute expression of everything a Cab Franc should be, which to me is (taste-wise) akin to the pleasure of stomping on the first fall leaves on the ground on a crisp day. Really fantastic nose on  this wine, great expression and complexity, and a flag waving signature that yes, Cab Franc can be made and made well in the Napa Valley. The Cabernet Sauvignon was powerful, very rich and concentrated and extracted. Try this one with a grilled juicy steak.

Since one of the houses on the property was built in 1910 and it is 48 hours before Halloween, I had to ask the question:  Has he experienced any ghosts? Eric says no, yet mentions that several workers living in the house have experenced a certain energy. Lately, though, Eric tells me, the energy has become incresingly positive, as the entity -- if indeed there is one -- is vibrating to the creativity and success of Titus Vineyards. "

Quick! Imagine you are presented with a "blind flight" of Sauvignon Blanc wine (or Chardonnay for that matter). Do you think you can pick out a wine from New York’s Long Island against wines from Sancerre or New Zealand? Assume that all wines have the same color, and for the most part, a similar aroma profile. Such a tasting would be particularly intriguing, as most people, even top wine writers, do not have the luxury of comparing a single varietal to its cousins around the world. And how does one recognize the characteristics of a Long Island wine anyway?

The above fantasy became reality recently when the Long Island Wine Council sponsored a seminar and blind tasting of its wines against others from top international regions. The result? Long Island wine can hold its own against the world’s most popular and expensive regions. Right now you may be wondering about the characteristics of Long Island varietals, which are a function of their terroir. One factor is the climate, which is very cool yet moderated by the bodies of water in the area. Vintage variation is considerable. And then there is the soil, which as in many old world countries is quite mineral in nature.

The Long Island Wine Blind Challenge began with a seminar, followed by five flights of a single varietal (each flight was four glasses each). Sitting around me were several of Manhattan’s – and the world’s – finest wine writers. Though some might say we are a jaded lot, truth be told we are passionate about wine, with a burning curiosity to discover factors responsible for what we smell and taste in the glass.

Long Island produces many grapes, but the key varietals are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay (both oaked and un-oaked), Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Journalists tasted through five flights: Sauvignon Blanc, Un-Oaked Chardonnay, Oaked Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. When the names of the wines were revealed, I was pleased to see I had attached the correct regions to the wines (a testament to an exhaustive wine education). Yet the comparative tasting also underscored how incredibly well-crafted wines from Long Island are, both the white and the red.

Linda Lawry, Director of the International Wine Center, was the Emcee of the event, with speakers including Steve Bate, Executive Director of the Long Island Wine council, Larry Perrine, CEO/Partner of Channing Daughters Winery, and Kip Bedell, Founding Winemaker, Bedell Cellars.

Take a New Zealand SB and rip off its vibrant flavors and aroma and at its core you see an old world SB. Or as the French might suggest, "doll up" an old world SB with perfume and makeup and you have a new world Sauvignon Blanc.

This particuar wine it turns out I am drinking, Joel Delaunay, is a 2007 SB from Touraine. As soon as I tasted it, I knew it was not from Sancerre, Menatou, or any of the other familiar regions. It was very shy and subdued, almost hesitant in asserting its SB power.

I like it. It is dry, with classic minerals on the nose and palate, and a very sublte nod to fruit and flowers. You will find apple, which is unusual for me when tasting SB yet it may well be particular to Tourraine. I could see it paired with all manner of white fish, sauteed, grilled, etc, or as an aperatif.

Americans in my view do not seem to understand or crave these subtle Sauvignon Blancs, yet I find it a solid value for the price. Not sure of what that is, yet definately under twenty.

Today let’s make this food and wine pairing specific with the newly launched artisanal Geyser Peak Block Collection from Sonoma, California and Manhattan-based celebrity chef David Bouley.

Why Geyser Peak Block Collection?

As a wine aficionado, you know that terroir drives the flavor and quality of wine. What Geyser Peak has done in their new Block Collection is to empower their award-winning winemaker Mick Schroeter to create site-specific wines. Unlike vineyard-designate wines, the Block Collection is a blend of special blocks within multiple vineyards to balance, enhance, and show the specificity of the respective regions (Alexander and Russian River Valleys) in the finished wines. The Block Collection wines are under $25.

Why David Bouley?

If you are also a foodie, you know that Chef Bouley is one of the top chefs in the world and is very much about sourcing artisanal ingredients. As the philosophy between winemaker and world-class chef are so similar, it is a natural that Geyser Peak and David Bouley work together to debut the wines with flights of meals for a small number of Manhattan’s top food and wine journalists.

The Venue: Bouley’s Test Kitchen in trendy downtown Manhattan

In your mind’s eye, imagine an enormous white studio-sized kitchen, filled with a dozen sous chefs efficiently chopping and preparing nine dishes and complex sauces before your eyes. As the journalists file in, squeezing themselves between the various stoves and countertops en route to seats at long tables facing the kitchen, the chefs work calmly and quietly and almost seem relaxed, despite what must be -- for them -- tremendous pressure.

The Speakers: Winemaker Mick Schroeter and Chef David Bouley

With his lively Australian charm, Schroeter kicks off the tasting seminar and lunch with amusing anecdotes about his move to Sonoma, soon followed by a brief discussion of the unique terroir that represent the Block Collection wines.

As the first dishes come out, wines are poured, and journalists are encouraged to taste different Block wines with each of the nine flights of expertly prepared cuisine. First Food Flight

Please note that each tasting-sized dish comes out on its own plate.

Porcini Flan Dungeness Crab, Black Truffle Dashi

Oil Poached Shrimp & Diver Scallops Ocean Herbal Broth

Kumamoto Oyster Plum Wine

Wine Pairing

Geyser Peak Block Collection River Ranches Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Tasting Notes: This clean, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc with its grapefruit and lime blossom flavors paired excellently with the Kumamoto Oyster, a refreshing treat from the sea which was paired with a plum wine gelee. In wine and food pairing parlance, this would be a “complimentary” match as the flavors complimented one another. Now the Porcini Flan with Dungeness Crab and Black Truffle Dashi was a richer dish. In this case, the wine, with its lively refreshing acid, cut through the richness of the dish, cleansing the palate. This is a case of “contrasting flavors.”

I also liked the wine with the shrimp and scallops, a very light dish expertly prepared. The herbal notes of the light sauce nicely matched the herbal flavors of the wine.

Marisa’s pairing suggestions: The above-dishes represented great pairing choices for this wine. At home, you might want to try serving it in the following ways:

1. Alone as an aperitif
2. With a cheese like fresh chevre (goat cheese). The wine varietal Sauvignon Blanc was originally from the Loire Valley in France, and chevre was the local cheese.
3. With all typical brunch dishes such as omelets and quiche.
4. With white-fleshed fish, simply prepared (steamed, broiled) with a very light sauce.
5. Composed luncheon salads. Technical Notes: While the wine was fresh and clean, winemaker Schroeter said that a small portion of the wine was barrel fermented to give a textured roundness to the mid-palate.

Vineyard Notes: Russian River’s cool climate produces intense, fruit forward, vibrant New World style of Sauvignon Blanc, the hallmark of Geyser Peak which dates from the nineteenth century. The backbone of this blend comes from the River Road Ranch Vineyard. Within the ranch, winemaker Schroeter and his team have divided the vineyard into distinct blocks, based on sun exposure and soil type.

True wine geeks might find it interesting to know that the ajority of the vineyard is planted to Clone 1 Sauvignon Blanc (a “clone” represents a specific genetic grape type). Winemaking Notes: At harvest, each vineyard block was picked during the cool morning hours to preserve the fruit’s intensity, and then gently pressed as whole berries. The majority of the wine was pressed in stainless steel (to preserve its aromatic fruit flavor). 15% of the blend was fermented in neutral French Oak. No malolactic fermentation was employed. The wine was matured for four months and bottled March 2008. Only 3,300 9L cases are made.

Second Flight Food

Black Sea Bass Vanilla Infused Saffron Sauce

Main Day Boat Lobster Celery Root, Peas, Blood Orange, & Pomegranate

Line-Caught Halibut with Popped Rice Wine Pairing

Geyser Peak Block Collection Water Bend Chardonnay 2007

Tasting Notes: This Chardonnay is an exceptionally well-balanced wine with subtle aromas of vanilla, butterscotch, and a hint of baked apple pie. In many ways, one could mistake it for its French cousin in Meursault. The wine gives the impression it had undergone many weeks of battonage (lees stirring) with its rich buttery taste.

I absolutely loved this wine with the black sea bass, especially (or perhaps, because of?) the vanilla infused saffron sauce that paired so well with the vanilla notes of this wine (complimentary flavors).

This Chardonnay also went well with the lobster, providing more of a “contrast” match to the sharper, slightly more acidic flavors of the sauce.

Line-Caught Halibut with Popped Rice was also excellent, very much a “compliment.” I should explain that the sauce was not popcorn the way most of us think of it – a hard, crunchy popped unit of corn. Instead, the popped corn had somehow been transformed to liquid form, so it tasted creamy.

Marisa’s Pairing Suggestions: Just thinking about the flavors in this wine makes me crave a glass right now, as an aperitif, without food! Here though, are some further suggestions: 1. Roast chicken. The texture of this wine, its subtle (wood) spice, makes me salivate even thinking about it. 2. Pasta or Risotto with a cheese-accented white sauce. 3. Composed luncheon salad 4. Caramelized scallops

Technical & Winemaking Notes

An important part of Geyser Peak Winery’s Chardonnay program is the use of American Oak barrels whose staves are soaked in hot water prior to shaping. The water leaches harsh components out of the wood and significantly increases the depth of toasting of the staves as they are shaped over fire.

This process yields barrels which impart a more delicate, subtle oak character to the wine along together with an elevated creaminess. Following fermentation in barrel, the wine was allowed to remain in contact with the yeast lees for the entire nine-month maturation period and stirred periodically in order to integrate the nutty, deep flavors of the lees into the wine. Approximately half of the blend underwent malolactic fermentation. Wine was matured for nine months, bottled in July of 2008, and 2,500 9L cases are produced.

Vineyard Notes

Fruit for this wine came predominantly from a riverside block of vines at Geyser Peak Winery’s Ascentia Vineyard. The vineyard’s sandy soils, low yields, and cooling coastal fogs make it ideally suited to growing Chardonnay. To preserve fruit flavors, grapes were harvested in the early morning hours and gently pressed while, without crushing, to avoid any harsh extractions. After cold settling, the juice was racked directly to barrel.

Third Food Flight

Organic Colorado Rack of Lamb Rosemary Crust, Zucchini-Mint Puree

Long Island Duckling Balinese Pepper Crust, White Truffle Honey Verjus, Ginger Dressing

Rack of Veal Heart of Palm & Japanese Egg

Wine Pairing: Geyser Peak Block Collection Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Tasting Notes: This smooth Cabernet Sauvignon is rich and ripe with notes of blackberry, mocha, cassis, and sweet spice. I liked it best with the Long Island Duckling – the sweet oak notes of the wine really melded well (complimented) the Balinese Pepper Crust of the Duck.

This wine also went well with the Lamb, matching the lamb in terms of texture and weight (crucial for an effective pairing) and melding nicely with the herbal flavors of the rosemary and mint accents.

Many in our group found that the wine worked well with Veal, yet the above-two pairings are my favorite.

Marisa’s Pairing Suggestions: 1. Steak 2. Any other grilled meat 3. Non-meat eaters may find salmon or tuna a possible pairing, depending on the way it is cooked (roasted is best) and the vegetables served with it (roasted vegetables with texture and some char is best). 4. Cheese

Technical and Winemaker Notes:

Here’s an interesting fact: the wine is named after a remarkable oak treethat over the course of several months, “walked” down the steep grade of the vineyard directly behindthe winery – while standing completely upright. WalkingTruee Cabernet is a blend of blocks from this hillside vineyard and other sites around the valley.

The wine is matured for 18 months in 100% new French oak.

You can find Geyser Peak Block Collection Wines in many shops for under $25, including wine.com.

Kosher Wines for Rosh Hashanah

"I don't get it," said a friend, holding two green-colored bottles of wine in either hand. We are in a wine store on a sunny day in New York City, and the store is buzzing with customers, but not a clerk to be found. "Both these wines are Sauvignon Blanc from Brancott. The producer — Brancott — is the same. The country — New Zealand — is the same. The year is the same, but the price is different. What's up?" I look at the bottles and see that one is "Reserve" (which often means different things, in different countries) and that the other one has an enormous, very fancy looking "B" in gold lettering directly etched into the bottle. Clearly they are different wines, but why?

The label of the reserve ($17) reads like a travel brochure, to visit New Zealand's Marlborough region with its description of bright sunshine, more than anything else. (Okay, the label did mention the alluvial soils, presumably to satisfy the curiosity of people who look for such information). The label on the Brancott Letter "B" series is more helpful, explaining that the wine is handcrafted (key word) from grapes grown on key Montana estates (another very key word) in Marlborough. Basically, this translates to a different quality of grapes (the Montana grapes are perhaps grown in areas where they have more access to the sun or better soil), and the wine is hand crafted with more personal attention. So, an extra six dollars ($23) buys you all the extra care.

Is the six-dollar difference worth it? Could anyone tell? To find out, I bought both (we needed two bottles for our dinner party) and rushed home to try them. Now before I continue, I'm sure you read about the study in which people rated a wine they were told was more expensive higher than they rated a more inexpensive bottle. Common sense might tell you that researchers have any number of psychological tricks (er, I meant "techniques") up their sleeve for them to get the data they want, depending on who might be financing the study. For that reason, I asked my friend to serve me the wines blind (meaning I could not see which one was poured) so I could make independent tasting notes.

Both Brancott wines had the crisp acidity characteristic of the Marlborough Region, with lots of grapefruit on the nose and palate. Yet I did prefer the Letter "B" series when it was revealed, even though someone very new to wine would find it hard to tell them apart. The difference — for me — is easily described as the difference between a picture taken of an attractive person using dated photographic technology, and a very crisp picture of the same person taken with the newest technology. The latter picture snaps out at you with its sharp-edges, while the other seems softer, rounder, and possibly less defined.

Guests at the dinner party struggled to find the difference, however, so you should decide if paying for the Letter "B" series is worth it. The "B" in particular lends itself well to aperitifs with its crisp flavors, and when served with a meal, is a great pairing with scallops and all manner of shellfish.

If you are like most people, it's hard to wrap your head around the concept of "mineral" in a wine. Most of us do not go around eating stones, or even smelling them. Yet tasting note after tasting note in all the glossy wine magazines refer to aromas of "wet stone" or "chalk" or "minerals." What does it all mean, and where does it come from?

Right now I am sipping Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc, 2007, from Marlborough New Zealand. You've probably had a NZ wine before and perhaps can even identify that grapefruit-intense, bright style in a line-up of Sauvignon Blanc wines from around the world. Yet in reading about this winery, it appears Stoneleigh was so named because of the sunstones in the vineyards.

Typically, when stones are present, a few things happen. First, it forces the roots of the vines to dig deep — actually very deep — into the soil to tap into water and nutrients. This possibly contributes to the mineral-rich aroma and palate since the roots are so far below the surface. Another benefit of a soil filled with sunstones (apart from the groovy, New Age image with its associations with ecology) is that the stones capture the sun's heat during the day, and that heat keeps the vines warm at night.

According to winemaker Jamie Marfell, the unique flavors in this wine (think fat, lush passion fruit with a squirt of refreshing pink grapefruit) are a result of both the stony free draining alluvial (riverbed) soils and slightly warmer climate of the Rapaura area. Indeed, when compared to its cooler climate NZ cousins, the wine seems softer, plumper, and with the kind of generous body that pairs well with a wide variety of food, especially first courses or luncheon dishes such as salads, seafood such as mussels, dressed crab, sautéed scallops, and brunch dishes such as quiche.

As delicious as this wine is, one of the most rewarding aspects of enjoying wine is understanding the "why" behind the flavors. The more you study wine and the effect that altitude, soil, and weather have on the wine, the more wine becomes less of a beverage and more of an enjoyable mystery. This is especially true when blind tasting wines, as the taster must ask "How did (the aroma or flavor) get there?" before beginning to deduce an answer.

The vineyards of Stoneleigh actually sit on an ancient riverbed, which in wine speak translates to the phrase "alluvial soil." It takes time, tasting, and serious reading to understand why "poor" and "stony" soil is a good thing for wine. Most of us assume that any crop, grapes included, do well in fertile soil; but grapes like a challenge, and vines make it their mandate to survive - whatever it takes.

As is often the case with humans, the more obstacles you give grapes, the harder they try to achieve their goal. In grape-speak, this means the determined vines dig down deep into the soil in order to snatch up the nutrients and water available to them.

Curious to learn more? Grab a bottle and share it with friends to see if you can detect the sunstones and mineral nuances.

"Austria!" a friend exclaims, nearly chocking on his sip of Sauvignon Blanc. "They make Sauvignon Blanc in Austria?!"

People have been making wine from the Sauvignon Blanc grape in regions around the world for hundreds of years. For most of us Americans, Sauvignon Blanc is a wine to break out during summertime picnics (or order with shellfish at our favorite restaurant), and most Americans make the assumption that the "best" Sauvignon Blanc comes from a region of New Zealand called Marlborough. For whatever reason, many people mistakenly assume New Zealand is a warm, beach-oriented climate.

New Zealand is actually quite cool, and you will be hard-pressed to find any wineries on the west side of the island because of the cold wind. Yet it is that cool weather that gives their Sauvignon Blanc such high acid and flavor.

Perhaps this is also why Sauvignon Blanc is also made very well in Austria, a climate everyone knows is quite cool. Though the wine geeks are touting Styria (Austria) as the country's best region for growing Sauvignon Blanc, the wine I have just poured from the region of Traisental — Ludwig Neumayer "Giess" Sauvignon Blanc 2006 — is so elegant, delicate, and rich with a myriad of layered flavors, I just have to talk about it.

In some ways, Neumayer's Sauvignon Blanc shares characteristics of the best Rieslings. On the nose, you detect intense minerality, along with an elegant lacing of delicate ripe fruit and succulent white flowers. Minerality transfers also to the palate, lending low notes to the ethereal high notes of flowers and ripe fruit. The length is long and seemingly never-ending with a finish of more minerals, flowers, and fruit - much like the moment of silence following a Mozart concerto.

If you want to read up on Neumayer, or even the region of Traisental, you will not find much on the Internet. However, this valley is an ancient winegrowing region. As early as 1673 the wines of Inzerdorf (an area in Traisental) were rated higher than those of the Wachau, Austria's most famed wine growing region. Traisental is noted for its complex geology.

In the east (towards the Danube) deep layers of clay soil predominate. In the West (towards Wachau) you can find classic prehistoric stony soils, known as granulite. In the area around Inzerdorf there is a narrow transitional zone between these two formations where the soil consists of a poor, chalky conglomerate (to winemakers, the poorer the soil, the better the resulting wine). Chalky soils typically yield wines with high acid and lightly coloured crystal clear wines with lively levels of acidity. Their delicate balance makes them impressive.

In the words of winemaker Ludwig Neumayer, "Do not look for grassiness in my wine!" Or cat's pee, for that matter. He does not want anyone to confuse his wine with the profile of a typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. With this wine as my initiation to the complexity of Austrian Sauvignon Blanc, look forward to profiles of other producers soon. Price $25.99

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