Cantina Frentana
When most wine lovers think of Italy, red wine like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese typically come to mind. Yet the red Montepulciano grape is king in Abruzzo, a charming mountainous region bordered by the Adriatic sea.
Historically – and even today – much of the wine is produced by cooperatives. In 1964, Emidio Pepe helped put Abruzzo on the quality map what may be called his “Burgundian” approach to terrior, low yields, and gentle pressing.
Today, cooperatives and small wineries are increasingly following his lead in focusing on quality rather than quantity. An example can be found with the Cantina Frentana cooperative. Created in 1958, it had been the first modern cooperative with state-of-the-art technology.
Magic Within The Tower
1958 marks the year of this winery’s birth. The year is reflected in its architecture, a soaring modern tower symbolizing the message of hope, rebirth, and modernization symbolized by this post WWII era.
Architecture is the first thing one notices on the drive to the Cantina Frentana, as the winery’s shape is a five-story circular tower. Stepping inside it’s easy to make comparisons to the Guggenheim Museum in New York with its spiral shape.
On the first floor of the spiral are the cement and inox tanks. Below that likes the maturation cellar, filled with large Slavonian oak botti and smaller barrels.
Cantina Frentana: Circular Tasting Room
The next step was the sleek circular tasting room on the fifth floor, overlooking a panoramic view of the bucolic countryside. Music playing during the tasting echoed the Jet Jetson “futuristic” 1950s theme, reinforced by the cruise ship style porthole windows at the top. A spiral staircase helped adventurous guests visit the circular terrace.
Our guide, the general manager Felice Di Biase, led us in a tutored tasting of five wines along with the winemaker paired with a variety of local dishes.
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Cocociola Grape at Cantina Frentana
Mr. Di Biase kicked the tasting off with a refreshing glass of sparkling Cocociola, an Italian grape variety from the east coast of southern Italy, specifically Abruzzo and northern Puglia. It is a green-skinned grape that produces straw-colored wine with pronounced acidity and grassy, herbaceous aromas comparable to those found in Sauvignon Blanc.
Cantina Frentana Pecorino Wine
The winery makes two styles of Pecorino, the local iconic grape, a low-priced version for the export market and a higher quality, very toothsome wine for local gastronomic consumption.
I loved the higher end Pecorino, the ultimate gastronomic white wine with a corduroy texture and a long length of finish.
Cantina Frentana Montepulciano
Montepulciano
Montepulciano is the “money grape” in Abruzzo, like Cabernet Sauvignon is in the Napa Valley. You will find many levels of quality in Abruzzo, with the best examples aged in botti.
Mr. Di Biase treated me to the 2017, which would make a fine pairing with steak.
Cantina Frentana: Summing it Up
It was a treat to visit this first modern cooperative in Cantina Frentana, and experience the magic of what must have been a real historical landmark in 1958 – almost like the round Capitol Records building in Hollywood.
As I tasted the delicious wines, I imagined in my mind’s eye all the local people looking up at this tower for miles around.
Thank you Mr. Di Biase and the Abruzzo Consortium
