Muscadet

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Muscadet

Most Americans rarely think about Muscadet, a dry white wine from the Loire region of France. Yet Muscadet is one of the best wines that you can pair with seafood.

Parisians know that, and for this reason they always have a bottle of chilled Muscadet available on ice at the hundreds of wine bars around the city. They always have a bottle of chilled Muscadet available on ice at the hundreds of wine bars around the city. Click to Tweet

Why Muscadet?

Muscadet is a simple, affordable wine that packs a power punch of flavor. It is a neutral wine, and proudly so.  This neutrality stems from different factors, but the most significant is the reticent nature of the grape variety itself.

Birthplace of Muscadet

The Muscadet AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) region is located in the Nantes region of France’s Loire Valley, near the Atlantic Ocean. The weather is often cool and damp.

 

Melon de Bourgogne is the name of the grape that goes into Muscadet. Like most wines from the Old World, they label this wine Muscadet AOC as opposed to being labeled with the Melon de Bourgogne grape variety used.

Muscadet: Points of Distinction

They label the best wines from the region Muscadet Sèvre et Maine. This indicates a more impressive (and expensive) growing region that  takes its name from the Sèvre Nantaise and the Maine rivers that flow through this wine-growing region.

In a wine store, you may see a bottle with the label Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur Lie AC. The French term “sur Lie” shows they aged the wine on its lees. Click to Tweet The French term “sur Lie” shows they aged the wine on its lees.

The word “lees” refers to spent yeast cells that fall to the bottom of a tank after fermentation. Leaving these lees in contact with the wine after fermentation is a winemaking technique that adds texture, flavor, and a slightly yeasty character.

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Soils and Vineyards of the Muscadet Region

In the Muscadet AOC, the better vineyards are in the Sevre et Maine sub-region south and east of Nantes.

The soils are diverse, but mostly schist and gneiss (a common metamorphic rock associated with granite) with some sandy soils. The soils are loose-textured with good drainage (especially important in this damp climate). In the key AOC of Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, soil is light, stony, and in places, filled with pockets of sand and clay.

Muscadet Climate

Damp, cool weather in the region means that in many years the grapes do not achieve ripeness. In cold years, the wine — usually dry, acidic, and fresh — takes on a green sharpness. Chaptalization (adding sugar to increase alcohol levels) is allowed and utilized, but the maximum permitted strength for the wine is 12.3% abv.

Producers have the option of hand harvesting the ripest fruit for a better acid-fruit balance, but only a handful of producers take the care and expense to do so.

Muscadet Regions & Styles

Today the most exported wine comes from the Muscadet de Sevre et Maine AOC east of Nantes and north and south of the city. This AOC’s name is derived from the two Loire tributaries that run through it.

The most popular style of Muscadet from this region is Muscadet Sur Lie, which means the wine is “aged” on its lees (dead, decomposing yeast cells) for several months. Lees aging gives champagne and some other wine its yeasty, biscuit-like aroma and fuller body.

AOC laws maintain that after fermentation, the wine must stay in contact with its fine lees in the tank or barrel for at least the winter, up to the point of bottling.

After an initial racking (they permit no further racking) they filter the wine before bottling. The process gives the wine more freshness, and there is often a slight bubble of carbon dioxide to protect it from oxidation. Click to Tweet The process gives the wine more freshness, and there is often a slight bubble of carbon dioxide to protect it from oxidation.

Bottling can take place only in two set periods: the first of March to the end of June (80% takes place during this time) or the fifteenth of October to the end of November to avoid bottling in the warm summer months.

**Curious About the Differences in Blind Tasting Muscadet vs Chablis?**

Muscadet: Other Restrictions:

1. Wine may only be sold after the third Thursday in March following the harvest.2. Sur lie wine may only be bottled in the cellar where it was made.3. Négociants either buy grapes or must or take mobile bottling lines to the cellars of the producers from whom they buy.

Other Appellations within the Muscadet AOC

Muscadet des Coteaux de la Loire AOC is northerly with chalky soils. In hot years, wines can be more balanced than elsewhere. Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu AOC is a new appellation that received its designation in the mid-1990’s.

Other Muscadet VDQS regions in the Vin du Pays Nantais:

1. Coteaux d’Ancenis

Named for its city, lying between Nantes and Angers, the region produces reds and medium-sweet whites named for their varietal. Red varietals include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Gamay. Whites include Chenin Blanc and Pinot Gris.

2. Fiefs Vendeens

This appellation is located south of Nantes. They must plant vineyards with at least 50% Gamay and Pinot Noir plus Negrette, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Maximum amount of Gamay permitted is 15%. These percentages apply only to planting and not final blends.

3. Gros Plant Nantais

The grapes grown in this appellation are actually Gros Plant, or Folle Blanche, the same wine used as a base for Cognac and Armagnac.

Muscadet: Natural Oyster Pairing

The port city of Muscadet in the Nantes region of the Loire Valley has been a port city since the Roman era. Seafood abounds.

And for centuries seafood and fish have always been served with the local Melon de Bourgogne grape variety.

Muscadet is also characterized by fresh acidity, which helps cut through the briny creaminess of oysters. Click to Tweet Muscadet is also characterized by fresh acidity, which helps cut through the briny creaminess of oysters.

It has the freshness of a popular wine like Pinot Grigio, but without the overt fruit aromas and flavors.

And perhaps best of all, the price of a bottle of Muscadet in a store is rarely over $15.

Muscadet Tasting Notes

Muscadet Sur Lie, Hautes Noelles (Serge Batard) 2006

Ripe concentrated, explosively flavorful dry white wine with searing acidity. Proprietor Serge Batard crafts staggeringly intense Muscadet that displays all the zingy acidity and palpable minerality you’d expect from this seaside appellation. Prolonged lees aging and bottling without racking give the wines extra texture and richness. Hand Harvested.

Muscadet Sur Lie “Les Granges” Hautes Noelles (S. Batard) 2006

This is a selection of Serge Batard’s best parcel of old Muscadet vines. It is only two hectares in size and yields few grapes of top quality, with annual production averaging 650 cases. Clear, pale wine with searing high acidity and a high mineral content.

Muscadet Top Producers

– Pierre Luneau-Papin
– Domaine de l’Ecu
– Louis Metaireau
– Chereau-Carre
– Chateau du Cleray

About Author Marisa D’Vari

D’Vari contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post, and more.

She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator  through the Society of Wine Educators … to see it all, please click on bio

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