Recaredo Spanish Sparkling Wine
Love Spanish sparkling wine? If so, you may be curious why the sight of earthworms burrowing into moist, dark vineyard soil has anything to do with the elegance of the finished wine.
Yet fine Spanish sparkling wine results from the soil in which the vines grow.
Sant Sadurnà d’Anoia Land of Spanish Sparkling Wine
Recaredo is a small Spanish sparkling wine producer in Sant Sadurnà d’Anoia. It is located in the Penedès region of northeastern Spain.
The emphasis Recaredo places on single vineyards, indigenous grape varieties for its Spanish sparkling wine, and long maturation may seem “trendy.”
…long maturation may seem “trendy.”
Yet Recaredo was the first Spanish sparkling wine to achieve biodynamic certification.
And also the first to get the Demeter international certification for biodynamic viticulture.
Demeter International is one of the largest certification organizations for biodynamic wine.
More information on Recaredo is also covered in this Forbes.com article.
Recaredo: Innovation Vs. Trends
As “fashionable” as it might seem, Recaredo’s focus on vineyard health, limited-production, and attention to quality for its Spanish sparkling wine started nearly a century ago.
It began with the ideals and practices of its founder, Josep Mata Capellades.
In 1924, winemaker Josep Mata Capellades wanted to distinguish itself from the larger Freixenet and CodornĂu brands.
He planted grapes in the best vineyards and made a name for the quality of his Spanish sparkling wines.
Recaredo Today
Today Ton Mata, Mr. Capellades’ grandson, is expanding his grandfather’s vision.
He sources grapes only from his Demeter certified (biodynamic) vineyards.
Recaredo’s focus is on indigenous grape varieties (Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel·lo) for his iconic Spanish sparkling wines.
You can read more about these wines in Wine Folly.
2014 Initial Visit
During my first visit in 2014, Ton Mata began the vineyard visit by digging up a few inches of topsoil.
In that instant, hundreds of tiny worms, busily digging tunnels in the earth (and thus aerating the soil) seemed to gaze up indignantly at us for disturbing their work.
These creatures also provide nutrients for the vines with their decomposition.
These creatures also provide nutrients for the vines with their decomposition.
A few minutes later, Ton Mata led me along a narrow path to observe the terroir and free-roaming animals that contribute to healthy grapes and quality Spanish sparkling wine.
Beyond biodynamics, Recaredo is famed for its long aging process (over 30 months). The industry also respects them for their vintage-dated, Brut Nature sparkling wine.
The term “Brut Nature” refers to wines with no dosage (additional sweetening). Recaredo sees these as gastronomic wines, meant to pair well with cuisine at top restaurants.Â
It is also a favorite with top sommeliers.Â
The Turó d’en Mota Vineyard
A prime example of its wine is the limited-production,100% Xarel-lo bottling from the special Turó d’en Mota vineyard.
The word TurĂł means hill. Mota refers to the family who owned the house on the hill and surrounding vineyards. Vinified for over 12 years, this wine retails at over $160.
Spanish Sparkling Wine: The New Order
In the past, many wine lovers used the term “Cava” and “Spanish Sparkling Wine” interchangeably.
Both wines can be similar in terms of the (mostly) indigenous grape varieties used. Also that Recaredo makes them using the “traditional method” of a secondary fermentation.
This secondary fermentation is how the Spanish sparkling wine get their sparkle.
The “traditional method” produces bubbles by trapping C02 in the bottle. This results in a yeasty aroma of fresh baked bread and also imparts a rich mouthfeel (texture) from the breakdown of spent yeast cells.
The Cava DO (Denominación de Origen) has strict requirements about all aspects relating to viticulture, vinification, and maturation of wine that have the Cava DO on their label.
For many years, Recaredo adhered to the Cava DO regulations even though they put more emphasis on quality and longer maturation. But in January 2019, Recaredo, together with eight more family wineries, left the Cava DO.
Each sparkling wine producer had their own reason for this. One common reason they share is more freedom and the opportunity to create a unique Spanish sparkling wine style, often from limited-production, long aged wines.
Visiting Recaredo
Now, all Recaredo’s labels fall under the CORPINNAT European Collective brand.
In the past – before the Pandemic – guests could enjoy a variety of different tours and Spanish sparkling wine tasting events.
Depending on the season, this could include a vineyard tour, watching a demonstration of how to disgorge a Spanish sparkling wine without freezing the bottle’s neck.
Or a tasting of some of their older vintage wines, some matured for as much as ten years on the lees (spent yeast cells).
Before your visit, contact the winery to check on what wine tasting and touring experiences are possible and their prices.Â
One can make an appointment to visit Recaredo in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia (Penedès) by contacting the winery at [email protected]or calling +34 938 910 214. Â
