November 2nd marked the official Launch of Destination Lugana

Lugana wine is known for its fresh sabidity and high acidty from the influence of nearby Lake Garda

Lugana wine is a delicious white wine from Northern Italy. Recently six Lugana wine producers banded together with Gambero Rosso for a virtual masterclass of their Lugana wine.

Local producers and consumers call the Lugana wine grape variety used “Turbiana.” Yet many skilled tasters might find similarities of the Verrocchio grape from the Italian Marche region.

Perhaps most people around the world still remember and refer to this Lugana wine by the name Trebbiano di Lugana,  Trebbiano di Soave, or Trebbiano di Lugana.

*You can learn about Italian wine here 

Lugana Wine: Mineral Driven  

These mineral-driven Lugana wines possess verve and personality. Affordably priced, they are delicious all-year round and can form the basis of a thirst-quenching apéritif and pairing for a wide assortment of meals.

*Discover Italian Wine Varieties Here

Lugano Wine: Creative Bottle Shapes

For the Lugana wine Masterclass, Gambero Rosso shipped six bottles of Lugana wine to my home. The surprise was the variety of creative bottle shapes. Some were squat. Others tall and slender. Each shape was unique to the producer.

Vibrant, Excited Lugana Wine Producers

It was also a pleasure to meet the producers virtually. In an in-person tasting, the producers are usually sitting at a distance. The ability to hear each producer speak about his or her wine was a welcome pleasure.

The History of the Lugana Wine DOC

Ancient Romans enjoyed Lugana wine. Yet it wasn’t until 1967 that it became the first wine of the Lombardia region to be registered as a DOC.

Taste of White Lugana Wine

Taste of White Lugana Wine

Each wine is unique, mostly depending on how it’s matured (length of time on the lees, vessel, and the time it spends in the vessel). Yet descriptive words can include “salty,” “green olive,” “dry,” and mineral-driven.

Beyond maturation, each of the six Lugana wines had a slightly different taste profile depending on the vineyard soil. Racy acidity characterized yet all the Lugana wines. Aromas and flavors of green olive ranged from subtle to more pronounced.

The Soils

Most vineyards feature dense mineral-rich clay soil, mostly glacial moronic. This compact soil helps the vines produce fewer berries and thus more concentrated fruit for the wine.

All Lugana wines tasted came from100% Turbiana grapes.

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Wine Resources

Tommasi Viticoltori

Lugana DOC Le Fornaci 2019

The Tommasi family business started in the early 20^th century. Today the Tommasis thrive as one of the region’s largest producers, drawing on a vast vineyard and a range that looks to tradition, for inspiration.

One parcel is on a calcareous soil, variously stratified and clayey, the other two have a more sandy composition rich in silt.

Vinification and ageing: Lugana Le Fornaci benefits from slow fermentation at a controlled temperature (14° / 18°) and stripping by natural sedimentation. Aging for about 3 months on lees and fine yeasts followed by aging in steel.

Pasini San Giovanni 

Lugana DOC Il Lugana 2019

Founded by Andrea Pasini in 1958, the family business is now managed by cousins Luca, Sara, Laura and Paolo Pasini, the third generation of viticulturists to work 36 hectares of property straddling the Valtènesi and Lugana appellations.

Photovoltaic panels have modernized and now power the cellar. Attention to the environment and eco-sustainability have also led to organic certification.

Vineyards are in the clay soil on the southern shores of Garda Lake.

Grapes macerate before pressing. Fermentation takes place under controlled temperature (18-20° C). Short steel tank batonnage. Bottle refining: 2 months.

Marangona

Lugana DOC 2019

This is a family-run winery, located on the border between Lombardy and Veneto, close to the southern shore of Lake Garda. Vineyards are planted on calcareous and silt-rich clay soil. This influences the vine, bringing minerality and flavor to the wine.

The farm is certified Organic.

Soil is calcareous and clay soil. Vinification: temperature-controlled stainless steel.. Fermentation and vinification are separately carried out for each vineyard of the estate and later the wines are blended,  |

Wines are unfined and age in stainless steel for 3 months followed by two months bottle age.

Ca Maiol

Lugana DOC Molin 2018

Cà Maiol was founded in 1967 by Milano’s Walter Contato, south of Lake Garda. In 1996 the winery passed to his sons. Now it is a part of the Santa Margherita group.

Vinification follows cryomaceration (leaving the grape must in contact with the skins at a low temperature) to obtain a Lugana wine that has greater structure and more refined aromas.

*Discover the Italian Grape Grigolino Here 

Marangona

Lugana DOC 2019

This is a family-run winery, located on the border between Lombardy and Veneto, close to the southern shore of Lake Garda. Vineyards are planted on calcareous and silt-rich clay soil. This influences the vine, bringing minerality and flavor to the wine.

The farm is certified organic.

Soil is calcareous and clay soil. Vinification: temperature-controlled stainless steel.. Fermentation and vinification are separately carried out for each vineyard of the estate and later the wines are blended,  |

Wines are unfined and age in stainless steel for 3 months followed by two months bottle age.

Ca Maiol

Lugana DOC Molin 2018

Cà Maiol was founded in 1967 by Milano’s Walter Contato, south of Lake Garda. In 1996 the winery passed to his sons. Now it is a part of the Santa Margherita group.

Vinification follows cryomaceration (leaving the grape must in contact with the skins at a low temperature) to obtain a Lugana wine that has greater structure and more refined aromas.

Perla Del Garda

Lugana DOC Madreperla Ris 2018

Owners Giovanna and Ettore Prandini devoted their lives to reviving viticulture on the family estate, a property that goes back generations.

Production started in 2006, in a modern cellar that allows for gravity-flow winemaking.  Organic certification is already in place, testifying to their commitment to environmental sustainability.

Soil is calcareous clay, morainic origin.

Vinification: acclimatization at 10°C (50°F), careful selection of grapes, soft pressing of whole grapes. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks (15°C). Ageing: 12 months in stainless steel tanks on yeast lees.

Corte Sermana

Lugana DOC Ris. Sermonna 2015

Corte Sermana, nestled in the hills of Lake Garda, is steeped in tradition. They pride themselves with an interweaving of advanced techniques of soil and vine management.

Vinification: gentle pressing, alcoholic fermentation at controlled temperature in steel tanks and tonneaux. Ageing: 12-18 months in steel tanks on its lees and 12 months in bottle.

Final Thoughts

Most of the Lugana wine I taste takes place at events in New York and London for wine journalists. (in the pre-pandemic days).

A few times in London, I’ve actually seen a Lugana wine on a wine list and always ordered it. The reason was because I secretly crave what I consider to be a slightly saline flavor.

Another reason is that I love stepping out of the “Chardonnay” and “Sauvignon Blanc” styles of wine for something more exotic.

Then Lugana wine pairs so well with grilled fish, which is my usual dish when I’m dining out.

I’m so grateful to Gambero Rosso for showcasing Lugana wine in this Masterclass.

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This week it was a pleasure to attend a Masterclass organized by Wine Enthusiast and Pasqua Winery to showcase examples of the Italian winery’s excellent vino.

Pasqua Winery History

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine history began in 1925, when the first generation of the Pasqua brothers came to Verona to establish a new business devoted to the trade of wines from Apulia. 

Within a few years, with the acquisition of new vineyards in the Verona area, the company progressively gained importance and visibility.

Pasqua winery is nominated for Wine Enthusiast’s finalists of European Winery of the Year with the decision to be made next week.

The Pasqua Masterclass

Led by Wine Enthusiast editor and well-known wine industry professional Jeff Porter, the Masterclass was an entertaining and edifying look into the wines, values, and missions of this estate.

Also interesting was that the Masterclass was held at Manhattan’s Rizzoli bookstore.

In his dialogue with two generations of the Pasqua family owned winery, Jeff Porter touched on the key factors about its unique terroir and philosophy of quality winemaking.

Pasqua Winery Wines

2021 PassioneSentimento, Bianco Veneto IGT

They made this delicious wine from 100% Garganega, showcasing how elegant and refined, this grape can be with careful work in the vineyard and winery. Marked by an appetizing floral aroma and vibrant acidity.

Hey French: “You could have done this, but you Didn’t” (Mutli-vintage)

This curious-named wine is a blend of four vintages, 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2017, and three grape varieties: 60% Garganega rounded out by Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc.

They sourced the fruit from several parcels of vineyard on the Veronese side of Monte Calvarina in the easternmost section of Soave Classico.

For this example, Jeff Porter explained that Volcanic soil where some of the grapes grew provided the potential for this well-structured, long-lived, wine.

2015 Mai Dire Mai Valpolicella Superiore DOC

Very fresh and lively wine with intense notes of black fruit jam, tobacco and licorice. Marked by racy high acidity. 

2017 Famiglia Pasqua Amarone Valpolicella DOCG

Classic Amarone marked by elegance, this wine offers spice, chocolate, and a whiff of faintly roasted coffee and vanilla.

Also offers generous aromas and flavors of blackberries, cherries and violets. Well balanced with a long finish.

2013 Mai Dire Mai Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG

Great concentration, structure, elegance and power. Delicious aromas and flavors of fruit (blackberries, cherries) flowers (violet) and aromas and flavors of maturation (chocolate, mocha). Delicious wine offers great complexity and a long finish.

A great, memorable evening.

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Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Masterclass in New York.

Very exciting to attend the Simply Italian Great Wines US Tour happening in New York, Chicago, and Los Angeles.

So many producers from Italy arrived to share their delicious wines, many of them familiar from other Simply Italian Great Wines from other years, and from visits.

Today in New York, guests could attend a walk around tasting and several masterclasses. These masterclasses, led by experts in the regions, focused on both regions and leading grape varieties.

I attended the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo seminar, led by Joe Campanale, author and proprietor of two Italian restaurants in New York, and Davide Acearra of the Abruzzo d’Montepulciano region.

Mr. Acearra began with a description of Abruzzo and its unique topography, such as the way the grand mountains are only forty minutes by car from the sea.

This demonstrates the diversity of the climate, which impacts the flavor of wine from the specific terrior.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

In addition to the climate and topography, Abruzzo boasts several different soil types that has an impact on the wine as well.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is the main red grape variety in Abruzzo. It is the iconic red grape variety of Abruzzo, in the same way Pinot Noir is the symbolic red grape of Burgundy.

What I liked best about the tasting component of this seminar is the way that we saw diverse examples of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, including delicious wine produced by a cooperative and also by the daughter of Abruzzo’s most iconic producers.

The Tasting

The wines below are 100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo as mandated by the consortium.

This is a classic good everyday drinking red wine representing very good value for the price.

2021 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Gennaro Pigliacampo winery

This recent release shows the potential longevity of these wines. Though youthful, its extensive aging process (months in stainless steel followed by additional aging in barrique then bottle) showed that it can improve with additional years in bottle.

2020 Vere Novo from Cantina Mazzarosa

This wine comes from one of the oldest wineries in Abruzzo. The grapes are whole bunched pressed which imbued it with a savory nature.

2019 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo  from Fosso Corno  

The extensive aging process of this Riserva wine included 9 month aging in oak  

Over four years old, this wine still tastes very fresh with remarkable acidity and balancing tannins.

2017 Cape Le Vigne from Famiglia di Carlo

Long maceration on the skins is partly responsible for this wines excellent balance and great depth of flavor. 

2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Tocco winery

Carefully selected grapes and wild yeast are two of the key elements responsible for this wine’s depth of flavor.

I was lucky enough to have visited this estate earlier this year. Stefania is the daughter of the iconic Emidio Pepe, and started her bio-centered winery on her own.

When Stefania started her project, she was a literal one woman operation – and the same holds true today. This delicious wine is proof positive that she’s succeeded in her quest for quality while remaining true to the land.

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Excellent lunch today with Andrea Sartori of Sartori di Verona, one of the most significant wine companies in Veneto, Italy.

Aside from the excellent wine, two of the key reasons this tasting of quality Italian wines stood out is because of the gregarious, welcoming nature of Andrea himself, the fact he brought his son Giacomo.

Now a recent university graduate, this is the first time Giacomo attended a press trip with his charismatic father. Giacomo himself was quite charismatic as he explained the process of drying grapes in the appassimento for their Amarone.

Winery Background

The tasting and lunch began with an introduction to the Sartori brand. 

Sartori di Verona was founded by Pietro Sartori in 1898 and passed down to great-grandson Andrea, appointed managing director in 1998.

Andrea perfected his English while attending classes at New York’s Columbia University. Back home, he sold Sartori wines throughout Italy before helping to expand markets in the US, Canada and Europe.

By 2000, he became the president of the winery.

During the lunch he revealed that his grandfather (who passed before he met him) found a statue in Verona called Sartori which represented the city. In the 1940s, he received a trademark to use it as the symbol of the family’s winery.

Like his grandfather and great grandfather,  is he dedicated to the classic Veronese varieties and styles with a focus on Valpolicella, Soave, Bardolino and Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC wines. 

The Wines

During the lunch we discovered Sartori di Verona through a tasting of five of the winery’s premium estate wines. 

They included:

Sartori Marani Bianco Veronese IGT 2019

Sartori ‘Regolo’ Valpolicella Classico Ripasso 2018

Sartori Valpolicella Classico Superiore ‘Montegradella ’2017

Sartori ‘Reius’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2016

Sartori ‘Corte Bra Riserva ‘ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2013

They paired each of the wines above with a variety of dishes, included seafood, cheese, pasta, game, meat, and even pizza to show their versatility with cuisine.

The white Sartori Marani Bianco Veronese IGT 2019 was especially delicious – very rich and nearly full-bodied, it was a wine to pair with gently breaded seafood. Andrea revealed they made the wine in honor of his grandmother, who he called a very elegant woman.

The type of woman who wore her most elegant clothes, even when indulging in her favorite pastime, gardening.

Next came the  Sartori ‘Regolo’ Valpolicella Classico Ripasso 2018 and Sartori Valpolicella Classico Superiore ‘Montegradella’ 2017, great examples of a well balanced Valpolicella with racy acidity and good fruit.

The last two wines were the crown jewels in the collection, Sartori ‘Reius’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2016 and Sartori ‘Corte Bra Riserva ‘ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2013

These two Amarone wines were traditional in style yet very elegant, with moderate alcohol and very vibrant acidity. It’s a brand name to seek in restaurants and wine lists.

It was a pleasaure meeting Andrea and his son. They are such genuine people who love meeting others and explaining their wine story.

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Are you curious about sweet Moscato wine?

Sweet Moscato is a wine from the Moscato grape.

Famous in ancient Rome and noted by the historian Pliny, sweet Moscato grows all over the world.

But the most famous wine from the sweet Moscato grape is Moscato d’Asti.

Like many wines from Italy, the name “Moscato d’Asti” refers to the grape variety (Moscato) and the town where it comes from, Asti.

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”But the most famous wine from the sweet Moscato grape is Moscato d’Asti”]

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Sweet Moscato in Piedmont

Moscato d’Asti DOCG in Piedmont

Asti lies in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy, bordering Switzerland and France. The name means “foot of the mountain” in the Italian language. Rolling hills characterize the landscape.

The best sweet Moscato wine comes from the higher elevation hillsides. Higher altitudes lead to cooler temperatures. Sweet Moscato wine needs high acidity to act as a counterbalance to its high sugar content.

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”Sweet Moscato wine needs high acidity to act as a counterbalance to its high sugar content.”].

Sugar Content in Sweet Moscato

The residual sugar (sugar left over from fermentation) in sweet Moscato ranges from 70 grams per liter (very low for sweet Moscato) to nearly 130 grams per liter, depending on the character of the vintage.

Warm weather leads to greater ripeness at harvest, while cool temperatures restrict this ripeness and the sugar level.

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”The residual sugar in sweet Moscato ranges from 70 grams per liter to nearly 130 grams per liter “].

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How Sweet Moscato is Made

Moscato d’Asti DOCG Sweet Moscato

By DOCG regulations, the producers receive notification when they may pick the grapes. This coincides with their peak of ripeness.

Workers take the freshly picked grapes to the individual wineries. Here, workers press them softly, inoculate them with yeast, and ferment them.

To keep the sweetness in the wine, workers stop the fermentation when the alcohol reaches 5%, though the range is officially between 4.5 and 6%.

The atmospheric pressure must be under 2.5 bar.

Instead of bottling the wine, workers freeze the sweet Moscato until they receive an order. This way, the sweet Moscato stays fresh until needed.

Moscato d’Asti is different from Asti Spumante. How so? Click Here

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”To keep the sweetness in the wine, workers stop the fermentation when the alcohol reaches 5%”].

Asti DOCG Regulations

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DOCG stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita.

To receive the DOCG designation, Asti had to prove its unique terroir and long history of quality winemaking.

Like the less restrictive DOC designation (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), the producers in the Asti DOCG must abide by the region’s permitted grape varieties and a myriad of other laws pertaining to viticulture and vinification, and maturation techniques.

The mandates of the sweet Moscato d’Asti DOCG is such that the producers must submit the wine for an in-depth technical analysis and tasting from the Ministry of Agriculture.

Only then will they receive the official DOCG seal of approval.

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”The best terroir for sweet Moscato is in the hillsides of Piedmont, on Limestone soil. The elevation and this soil allow the grapes to keep freshness.”].

The Aromas and Flavors of Sweet Moscato

Sweet Moscato: Floral Aromas

Sweet Moscato wine has exotic floral aromas of honeysuckle and jasmine, and ripened fruit like pear, peach, and apricot.

Many tasters can even detect herbal notes like sage.

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”Sweet Moscato has exotic floral aromas of honeysuckle and jasmine, and ripened fruit like pear, peach, and apricot.” display_tweet=”].

Sweet Moscato and Health

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Sweet Moscato: Healthy Choice In Moderation

Are you on the Keto Diet? Low Carbs? If your diet permits you a daily indulgence, put sweet Moscato on your treat list.

The “secret” is to pour an ounce of this delicious sweet wine into a glass and add zero-carb and zero-calorie seltzer water or tonic.

Decorate the rim of the glass with a slice of lime and you have your lower calorie, lower carbohydrate treat.

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”The “secret” is to pour an ounce of this delicious sweet wine into a glass and add zero-carb and zero-calorie seltzer water or tonic.”].

Sweet Moscato: When To Serve?

Welcome visitors to your home with sweet Moscato wine served in an elegant fluted glass, like Champagne.

Sweet Moscato is best paired with dessert. I love it with Italian cookies! Sweet Moscato also pairs great with berries. Add Italian vanilla ice cream for a special treat.

You can even serve sweet Moscato at lunch or dinner to pair with items served with the main meal. See my recipe for a vegetarian friendly Robiolo cheese entrée at the end of this article.

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”See my recipe for a vegetarian friendly Robiolo cheese entrée at the end of this article.”].

Moscato Where to Buy

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Supermarkets & Wine Shops

You can find sweet Moscato wine everywhere, supermarkets and wine shops. Your favorite online shop should have a great selection.

Can Sweet Moscato Wine Go Bad?

Every wine, once opened, is perishable. Yet you can keep your sweet Moscato for a few extra days with the technique below.

Try to pour the leftover sweet Moscato wine into a small container, like a glass jam jar or bottle used for salad dressing. Turn the cap tightly and place in the refrigerator. This should last two days.

5 Sweet Moscato Wines to Try

MONCALVINA MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. 2019 – COPPO

LA CAUDRINA MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. 2019 – CAUDRINA

NIVOLE MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. 2019 – MICHELE CHIARLO

MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. 2019 – I VIGNAIOLI DI SANTO STEFANO – CERETTO

SCRAPONA MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G. 2019 – MARENCO VINI

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”See my recipe for a vegetarian friendly Robiolo cheese entrée at the end of this article.”].

Virtual Visit of Sweet Moscato Producers

The producers representing these wines recently gave a virtual conference to New York wine writers. Last year; they flew to New York and gave the presentation in person.

Thankfully, they could send their wines so that participants in the webinar could taste the 2019 vintage.

Though each sweet Moscato wine shared key characteristics like floral aromas, they differed slightly in terms of their fruit profile and intensity of savory herbs like sage. This reflects the different terroir and altitude of each producer’s vineyards.

Moscato remains one of the most delicious and affordable of all Italian wines. It’s the perfect choice for a picnic, or just an apéritif.

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”Moscato remains one of the most delicious and affordable of all Italian wines.”].

Sweet Moscato with Robiola Cheese and Grilled Vegetables

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Robiola is an Italian soft-ripened cheese of the Stracchino family. It thrives in the Langhe region of Piedmont and made with varying proportions of cows, goat, and sheep milk.

You can also substitute a mixture of 1/2 cup mascarpone and 1/3 cup ricotta for Robiola if unavailable.

The Pesto Robiola Sauce

To prepare the sauce, place basil, garlic, pine nuts, 1/4 cup of olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon of salt in a food processor and run until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.

Then add the cheese and pulse just until combined. Make this mixture ahead and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Though your guests can just serve themselves the vegetables and pesto Robiola separately, I like to make a more formal presentation.

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”It thrives in the Langhe region of Piedmont and made with varying proportions of cows, goat, and sheep milk.”].

The Formal Presentation of Robiola Cheese, Grilled Vegetables, and Sweet Moscato

For presentation, I like to serve this dish in an oversized wine tumbler from Riedel. When you’re not using the glasses for this dish, you can use it for red wine.

To do this, I use the largest stemless glasses from Riedel 

First, I chop the grilled vegetables and mix them.

Then I spoon a shallow layer of the vegetable mixture into each glass.

I add another shallow layer of the cheese mixture.

Then I repeat the process until the glass has alternating layers of the cheese mixture and the vegetable mixture.

I like to decorate this with a sprig of rosemary.

Serve with chilled sweet Moscato!

**Click Here to Read about Asti Spumante and the Differences from Moscato d’Asti**

[socialpug_tweet tweet=”I like to serve this dish in an oversized wine tumbler from Riedel. When you’re not using the glasses for this dish, you can use it for red wine.”].

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Here’s a video that highlights this wine.

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Margiotta Winery is located in Abruzzo’s historic Peligna Valley, and remains a popular destination on the Abruzzo wine route.

I found myself charmed during my Margiotta Winery visit, mostly because of the young, energetic, jean-clad Francesca Margiotta,  representing the 5th generation of winemakers.

With the energy of a Jack-in-the-box toy, Francesca sprang to life at our visit, bubbling over with excitement as she explained the terroir (we couldn’t visit due to the rain) then ushered us into the Margiotta Winery barrel room. 

Margiotta Winery: The Grapes

Margiotta Winery grows indigenous grape varieties (Montepulciano, Pecorino and Trebbiano) that form the basis of elegant wines with character.

The decision to grow indigenous grapes represents the winery’s concept of respecting biodiversity and the natural cycles of the environment.

Margiotta Winery Food pairing

The winery offers several wine tasting packages, including one with enough appetizers (cheese/meat) to be considered a suitable lunch.

Curious about other Abruzzo wineries?

Bosco Winery

Agriverde Winery

Villamagna DOC

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Bosco is one of the oldest wineries in Abruzzo, created in the late 19th century by young Giovanni Bosco who began cultivating vines around the city of Pescara in the south east region of Abruzzo.

Bosco Winery: Ancient Wine Implements

The winery is still family owned. During the pandemic, the family created a museum of the implements found on the property.

Bosco Tour, Tasting, and Lunch

The export director gave us an excellent tour of the winery, including the barrel room and the museum.

In addition to the vineyard tools, the family museum offered furniture and cooking implements used by the family through the years.

We enjoyed many wines during the chef-prepared lunch, including a delicious barrel aged Chardonnay and a toothsome Montepulciano.

Want to learn more about Italian wine?

Related Stories:

Agriverde Winery

Cantina Frentana

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In 2011, the Villamagna DOC was established after several winegrowers decided it was time to create stricter quality standards for the growing of their Montepulciano grapes and the maturation of their wines.

The movement began in the late 1990s, but it took more than a decade to win their own appellation.

Villamagna DOC Producder Tables

Abruzzo is famous for its Montepulciano grape, the way Chianti Classico is known for its Sangiovese and Umbria for its signature Sagrantino grape.

Villamagna DOC: Taste the Difference

The producers of Villagmagna got together during the Abruzzo Wine Experience to offer their wines for journalists to taste.

The format was for journalists to visit the various tables, and taste two wines of every producer, typically a recent vintage and a riserva.

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Wine Resources

After the first tasting, it was clear that the stricter standards that Villagmagna imposes shines through in the wine. The emphasis on strict viticulture protocol and especially the longer maturation requirements result in very fine Montepulciano wine.

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Soil in the Villamagna Doc is a mix of limestone, marl, and clay, which the producers say result in more complex aromas.

The wines are released three years after the harvest to give the wines the possibility to improve with bottle age.

Overall, the wines were rich, with soft velvet tannins, a long length of finish, and aromas and flavors including cherries and violets.

Overall Impression

Though impressed by the high quality of the Villamagna wine, I was also pleased with the way that the producers all worked so seamlessly together.

They appeared intent on raising awareness of the Villamagna region as a cohesive group, not simply producers who shared vineyards in the same geographical area.

Wine Dinner Under the Stars

After the tasting, the producers put on a casual dinner under the stars in the town square.

It was fun to speak to the producers individually and learn their histories. Many of them had attended elementary school together, and have been longtime friends.

I was proud and grateful to raise a glass with them that night.

Want to learn more about Italian Wine?

Related Abruzzo Stories:

Agriverde Winery

Cantina Frentana

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One of the many spectacular wineries I visited in Abruzzo during the Abruzzo Wine Experience was the Agriverde Winery. The export manager who led the tour explained it was the signature certified organic winery chosen by “team Ferrari” to toast the victory during the Formula 1 Grand Prix. 

Beyond that honor, the winery had some of the highest accolades in the wine world – visitors could see the various plaques and certificates in the hall leading to the elegant tasting room.

Agriverde Winery Awards

Though the winery itself looks “low key,” the cellar of the winery had been constructed with the principles of bio-architecture.

Unassuming when viewed from the exterior amidst the picturesque landscape, the architecht used wood, steel, and glass to establish the cellar. He even used eco-friendly paints and glues. Electrical systems are protected against magnetic fields.

The cellar consists of a large underground room, outfitted with air conditioners, to provide a controlled and efficient atmosphere for resting and aging of wines in barriques and tonneaux. 

Respect for Nature

Grape Varieties Used

The winery uses a variety of international and local grapes within the Abruzzo DOC and IGP regions.

Montepulciano, Trebbiano, Cerasuolo, Pecorino, Passerina, Cococciola, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay

During harvesting, they only use manual methods of grape picking to select the more accurate bunch to produce rich-quality red, white, and rose wines, together with top-class dessert and sparkling wines.

Agriverde Tasting

The excellent tasting included the following wines:

Pecorino 2021

White flower, peach, high acidity

Cerisuolo 2021 

From the Montepulciano grape – strawberry fresh fruit, passion fruit  – very refreshing

Montepulciano 2018

Aged in French oak, very high end gastronomic wine.

You can read more about the Agriverde winery here

You can discover more about Italian wine here

Curious about an Abruzzo wine cooperative? Read about the Frentana Winery here

The post Abruzzo: Agriverde Winery appeared first on AWINESTORY.COM.

When most wine lovers think of Italy, red wine like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese typically come to mind. Yet the red Montepulciano grape is king in Abruzzo, a charming mountainous region bordered by the Adriatic sea.

Historically – and even today – much of the wine is produced by cooperatives. In 1964, Emidio Pepe helped put Abruzzo on the quality map what may be called his “Burgundian” approach to terrior, low yields, and gentle pressing.

Today, cooperatives and small wineries are increasingly following his lead in focusing on quality rather than quantity. An example can be found with the Cantina Frentana cooperative. Created in 1958, it had been the first modern cooperative with state-of-the-art technology.

Magic Within The Tower

1958 marks the year of this winery’s birth. The year is reflected in its architecture, a soaring modern tower symbolizing the message of hope, rebirth, and modernization symbolized by this post WWII era.

Architecture is the first thing one notices on the drive to the Cantina Frentana, as the winery’s shape is a five-story circular tower. Stepping inside it’s easy to make comparisons to the Guggenheim Museum in New York with its spiral shape.

On the first floor of the spiral are the cement and inox tanks. Below that likes the maturation cellar, filled with large Slavonian oak botti and smaller barrels.

Click here for
Wine Resources

Cantina Frentana: Circular Tasting Room

The next step was the sleek circular tasting room on the fifth floor, overlooking a panoramic view of the bucolic countryside. Music playing during the tasting echoed the Jet Jetson “futuristic” 1950s theme, reinforced by the cruise ship style porthole windows at the top. A spiral staircase helped adventurous guests visit the circular terrace.

Our guide, the general manager Felice Di Biase, led us in a tutored tasting of five wines along with the winemaker paired with a variety of local dishes.

If you’re curious to learn more about Italian wines, click this link. 

Cocociola Grape at Cantina Frentana

Mr. Di Biase kicked the tasting off with a refreshing glass of sparkling Cocociola, an Italian grape variety from the east coast of southern Italy, specifically Abruzzo and northern Puglia. It is a green-skinned grape that produces straw-colored wine with pronounced acidity and grassy, herbaceous aromas comparable to those found in  Sauvignon Blanc.

Cantina Frentana Pecorino Wine

The winery makes two styles of Pecorino, the local iconic grape, a low-priced version for the export market and a higher quality, very toothsome wine for local gastronomic consumption.

I loved the higher end Pecorino, the ultimate gastronomic white wine with a corduroy texture and a long length of finish.

Cantina Frentana Montepulciano

Montepulciano

Montepulciano is the “money grape” in Abruzzo, like Cabernet Sauvignon is in the Napa Valley. You will find many levels of quality in Abruzzo, with the best examples aged in botti.

Mr. Di Biase treated me to the 2017, which would make a fine pairing with steak.

Cantina Frentana: Summing it Up

 It was a treat to visit this first modern cooperative in Cantina Frentana, and experience the magic of what must have been a real historical landmark in 1958 – almost like the round Capitol Records building in Hollywood.

As I tasted the delicious wines, I imagined in my mind’s eye all the local people looking up at this tower for miles around.

Thank you Mr. Di Biase and the Abruzzo Consortium

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Official Welcome Dinner of Anteprime di Toscana 2022 March 19

Official Welcome Dinner of Anteprime di Toscana 2022

Words can’t describe the thrill of walking toward the entrance of the Palazzo Vecchio for the welcome dinner of Anteprime di Toscana 2022.

It would be the first time international wine journalists and Tuscan producers would see one another in the two long years since COVID, and everyone appeared in a mood of celebration.

Michelangelo’s David Giving a Warm Welcome

Even before I approached the red-carpet leading to the Palazzo Vecchio entrance, an enormous recreation of Michelangelo’s “David” greeted me outside in the brisk spring air. I could almost detect a friendly smile on the statue’s face and even a wink, welcoming me to the festivities inside.

With a sense of excitement, I passed through the two gilded lions guarding the palace.

Stepping into the Palazzo Vecchio

When it comes to literally rolling out the red carpet, it’s hard to rival the Florentines. The magnificence of this palace defies words. Let’s just say that once I stepped up to the ground floor, the sumptuous setting completely dazzled me.

The idea for the Palazzo Vecchio was born in 1299, when the people of Florence built a palace worthy of the city’s importance.

Of course, the good people of Florence might have also been looking forward to the day when their Tuscan wine would be of international importance.

At least, I’d like to think so.

The organizers behind the Anteprime di Toscana 2022 must have thought so too, for the magnificent cuisine, delicious Tuscan wine, and curated entertainment befitted a royal banquet.

Click here for
Wine Resources

Structure of the Evening

At 7pm, the doors to the magnificent “Salone dei Cinquecento” opened. Producers and wine journalists who haven’t seen one another for over 1,000 days gathered with hugs of delight. Swirling among them were the organizers and representatives of the many Consorzios who would attend and hosting events during the next several days.

People were free to seat themselves at the round tables of eight. Many of my colleagues sat with familiar faces from their own country, city, or even neighborhood. I took it upon myself to sit with a delightful group of foreign strangers who soon became friends. Among them sat a Russian-born journalist named Tatiana Trostnikova who now lives in Florence.

Beside her was her colleague, also now living in Florence but originally from Japan. Other people at my table included Italian producers and Italian journalist who only spoke Italian.

The Evening Kick-off

The Master of Ceremonies for Anteprime Toscana kicked off the evening with an interview. Sitting on a stool beside him was Gianna Nannini, a very famous Italian singer-songwriter and musician.

Gianna easily charmed everyone in the crowd with her wit and humor. Even though Italian isn’t my strongest language, I could easily understand the sections in which she spoke about the childhood memories which led her to create her wine brand based in her family’s Tuscan estate, Certosa di Belriguardo.

Musical Entertainment

Throughout the evening, the most talented students of the “Maggio Musicale Fiorentino” sang Opera, adding to the sumptuous delight of the evening.

Listening to the passionate music, and looking at the gilded frescos and ceilings on the walls of the Salone dei Cinquecento I closed my eyes to imagine all the drama that must have occurred in this very room over the past near-thousand years.

The Wine and the Dinner Courses

Every table enjoyed a series of signature Italian wines from the Tuscan region, including Vin Santo.

The first plate was a mix of traditional favorites presented in a new way.

Then we had a recreation of traditional pasta styles, followed by a meat course, and finally dessert.

March 20 Chianti Lovers & Rosso Morello

This event, like many of the events created by the people behind Anteprime Toscana, took place at a 14^th century fort, Fortezza da Basso.

Colorful flags welcomed journalists here to taste the delicious wine of Chianti, outside the specified region of Chianti Classico, and Rosso Morellino.

New Vintages of Chianti and Morellino di Scansano

On display were the new vintages of Chianti DOCG 2021, Superiore 2020 and Riserva 2019, released in 2022. Also Morellino di Scansano DOCG 2021 and Riserva 2019, released in 2022.

I spent my time talking to various producers and hearing their stories about how they are involved with the wine before their table.

Meeting the Producers

I spent my time talking to various producers and hearing their stories about how they are involved with the wine before their table.

One of the more interesting stories I heard was that of the ”professor,” a thirtysomething sharply dressed man who had until recently been employed by the University of Pisa. Today is the proprietor of Tenuta di Manenello, a winery, a restaurant, and agriturismo.

How did the professor get there?

“It all began with my uncle Filip,” he says. “My dad and uncle Fili worked in the vineyards on weekends, and I helped out as a kid.  I graduated from university and became a professor in Pisa.

When my uncle passed, I took it over with my girlfriend. She helped me start the restaurant. We’re doing well as an agriturismo, with many tourists from northern countries. He named one of his wines Sotto Vento for his Uncle Fili.”

During the event, I met many other producers or their export managers, and was pleased to see the quality of wine from these regions.

March 20 Dinner at Tenuta di Artimino

The AntePrime Toscana program is the most exciting way for international journalists to taste the region’s wines and make notes on the new vintage. Yet it is also the best way to discover the “hidden gems” responsible for the wine industry as it exists today.

For example, the Carmignano DOCG is a new-to-me region that I have read about in wine books, yet had never visited.

The AntePrime Toscana program enabled me to visit the region in virtually the same way as the Medici family had back in 1596.

Well, not quite–but close.

In that year, Ferdinand I de’ Medici saw the rolling hills of Carmignano and the beautiful sunset and built his hunting lodge here. I’m suspecting that he may have also tasted the wine of the region while in the area.

The ”hunting lodge” he built, pictured below, became the family summer estate.

Tenuta di Artimino–Medieval Days to Present

In 1935, Giuseppe Olmo–known by all as Gepin–went down in history by setting a new Hour Distance Record in international cycling.

In those days, international sports figures probably didn’t have the same “influencer” status as they do today, nor the millions of dollars in endorsement fees. And to make his dream of owning a world-class, wine-producing castle estate more difficult, he came from a family of modest means.

Yet “Gepin” knew the value of hard work, sacrifice and tenacity. And he must have also possessed more than a modicum of charm, for he could purchase Tenuta di Artimino in the 1980s.

Yet (nearly) a half-century ago, the castle was nothing as it is today. By various accounts, the roof had been bombed in the second world war and never repaired.

Slowly, he was able to rebuild it into the masterpiece it is today, now an UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Medici Villa La Ferdinanda.

The New Generation

Annabella Pascale, CEO, is the granddaughter of Giuseppe Olmo and our guide on this tour. Through her eyes, we could see that this land has been a true cradle of arts, good living, and wine for centuries,

Before the formal tasting of the house’s excellent wines, she gave us a tour of the house and told more than a few stories. The history of the Carmignano Docg wine begins with the Etruscans, who already produced wine in these areas millennia ago. They had found wine vessels in the area inside some Etruscan tombs. And no doubt, some remain buried deep in the earth, perhaps near the Tenuta di Artimino vineyards itself.

Carmignano History 

One of the first documents on the wine production of these hills dates to 804 A.D. It was the time of the reign of Charlemagne and his son, Pippin. A parchment dating from this period, written in Latin, reads that the church of San Pietro a Seano granted some land in use with a system of dividing the harvest that can be considered an ancient form of sharecropping.

In the 1400s, merchant Francesco Datini placed fifteen large orders of Carmignano wine for his wine cellar, paying more than the going price for the most prestigious wines of the time.

The poet Domenico Bartoloni wrote a verse saying that while “while French wines such as the Claretto di Avignone may be good, and Chianti has nothing to complain about, the wine of Artimino and Carmignano are in a class by themselves.”

The Tutored Tasting

Filippo Paoletti, enologist, lead the tutored tasting in the formal dining room. The long table was beautifully set with the finest crystal glasses to better taste the wine.

Journalists tasted the 2018, 2017, 2016 and 2015 vintages of the iconic wine Grumarello, produced with varying amounts of merlot, cabernet sauvignon. Mr. Paoletti had an encyclopedic memory of the vintages. We also tasted several of the Poggilarca Carmignano DOCG wine.

The Grand Dinner

In true Medici style, the grand dinner took place at a long table in the barrel room.

It was a fun event. Our hosts set up a first course buffet in what looks to be the original (but restored) historic kitchen, complete with a hearth for cooking.

After choosing the first course, they served guests a delicious entrée and dessert at the table.

Many thanks to Annabella Pascale, the Carmignano consorzio, and the people at AntePrime Toscana for making this visit possible.

March 22 Chianti Classico Collection at Stazione Leopolda

Stazione Leopolda was the first train station in Florence. Completed in 1848, it was named “Leopolda” in honor of the reigning Grand Duke.

The train station motif was appropriate given the speed-tasting element of the day-long Chianti Classico tasting.

In all honesty, the tasting event was all self-paced – wine journalists can taste as fast or slow as they desire.

As was the case in virtually all the tasting events, professional Italian sommeliers served the wines.

During this Chianti Classico tasting, everything was electronic. Journalists would order the wines from their desks via their computer or device.

In addition to the Preview tasting of the latest vintages of Chianti Classico wines in three typologies (Annata, Riserva and Gran Selezione) journalists could visit the stands of 200 producers.

Tasting of Chianti Classico D.O.P Olive Oil from the 2021 harvest was also available.

One of the highlights of the day was the tasting and presentation of wines as old as 1949.

Accompanying this fine, once-in-a-lifetime tasting was a visual presentation of the current events in the year they made the wine.

March 22 Dinner at Osteria Dell’Enoteca for the Chianti Classico Collectiion 2022

The AntePrime Toscana 2022 Committee had a great idea in organizing several “small table” dinners for the international journalists attending the week-long event, in which they mix with producers on a more intimate basis.

The restaurants were assigned to journalists in advance, and we were instructed to meet a representative at a specific street corner near our hotel.

My restaurant turned out to be Osteria Dell’Enoteca, a restaurant so wine focused that galestro rocks (a grey porous rock found in Chianti Classico vineyards and elsewhere) were used as a motif in its décor.

Though the producers at my table spoke halting English, wine became the universal language and we were all able to make ourselves understood.

March 24: Vernacchia Technical Tasting at Museum of the Modern and Contemporary Art De Grada

The foucs of the day was the technical tasting of the new vintages of Vernaccia di San Gimignano D.O.C.G 2021 and Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva 2020 with sommelier service

March 23 & 24 Meals with Vernaccia di San Gimignano Producers

History of San Gimignano

San Gimignano got its start in the third century BC as a small Etruscan village. It grew in importance as it sat on an important trade route between Italian cities. Many residents grew rich and built tall towers to showcase their wealth. These many towers lend itself to its moniker as “medieval Manhattan.”

The black plague in 1348 ended the town’s prosperity.

But the rise of interest in wine and tourism has raised its sails once again. Until Covid hit, millions of people would clog the stone-paved streets all summer long.

When I first began my adventure to get the Wine & Spirits Educational Trust Diploma, I remember sitting in a classroom of the International Wine Center, The year was  2008, I remember a golden liquid poured in “blind fashion” into my glass.

Raising it to my lips, I had never encountered such a wine before. It had a tangy, almost saline minerality, a striking rich texture, and offered a sensuality rarely encountered in a white wine.

What was it?

The answer was overnice di Gimignano, a Tuscan wine that has the honor of being the only DOCG wine region in Italy. I loved its texture, and that sultry hint of saffron and the subtle aroma of melted butter.

I looked at the picture of the walled city of San Gimignano in my textbook, and wondered if one day I’d be lucky enough to visit.

The People Behind the Wine

Thanks to the excellent planning of the AntePrime Toscana team, I was able to meet four San Gimignano producers, all of different ages, circumstances, and attitudes.

Dinner with Producers

My first dinner took place at the historic La Cisterna hotel in the middle of the city. As you may imagine, a cistern sat right in front of the hotel.  And by chance, my room overlooked it.

At dinner, I warmly greeted my two producers hosts, both of whom happened to be named Lorenzo.

Lorenzo Rosi of Mareterra and Lorenzo of Casa Lucii.

They brought several samples of their wine, and explained how the call for a fresher, lighter style of Vernacchia San Gimignano is now demanded by the market.

Lunch with the Producers

The following day I had lunch with two different producers, Fornacelle and Tolena. Both producers offered the rich, riserva style I loved in addition to their lower tier, more simple styles.

Both producers also offered tasting events at their wineries, and rooms that guests could rent.

March 24: Grand Dinner Montepulciano Fortress of Montepulciano

Sommeliers stood ready to pour any request from a very long list of regional wines.

March 24: Comparative tasting of the new vintages of Vino Nobile

Like the other tastings in the Anteprime Toscana program, this was request for wine on demand.

March 24: Private Visits to Montepulciano Producers

The first visit was to Villa St. Anna 

The Villa S. Anna winery is part of a larger property owned for about two hundred years by the family of Simona Ruggeri Fabroni. It is situated on the hills around the town of Montepulciano, renowned for its fine wines.

For many years Simona (in the photo) has been committed to upholding the ancient, passionate family tradition of promoting and selling fine quality wines, with the help and encouragement of her daughters Anna and Margherita.

During our visit, she showed us the near-200 year old cellar and gave an excellent tasting of her very best wines.

The photo above shows the owner posing with his new young winemaker, the daughter ofthe previous winemaker.

Carpineto offers wine tasting to guests, visits, and even has a museum. There are many artifacts in the area from the Etruscan days.

March 25: “The Other Sangiovese” Presentation by Gabriele Gorelli Master of Wine

On this day, international journalists gathered at the Santa Maria Novella Museum, near the church of the same name. This was a luxurious and rich historical venue for another landmark tasting.

Journalists from various corners of the world gathered to taste and score wines from the following regions:  Carmignano, Chianti Rufina, Colline Lucchesi, Cortona, Maremma Toscana, Montecucco, Orcia, Terre di Casole, Terre di Pisa, Valdarno di Sopra.

The format was for journalists to sit and specifically assigned places in round tables. The format was digital: journalists would choose their selection of wine to be served in a flight from a booklet.

A classically dressed Italian sommelier would take the wine order and bring it quickly.

Given the vast amount of wines and regions to be tasted, my personal observation was that the process was fast and virtually flawless.

Gabriele Gorelli Masterclass

Mr. Gorelli MW (the initials refer to the Master of Wine) offered three diverse masterclasses on this day. Seating was limited, and given the brilliance of the presentation and rarity of most of the wines, I was thankful I registered for these magnificent, sold-out events in advance.

The word “magnificent” is used due to the creativity required to conceive each of these three masterclasses, then finding the appropriate wines to underscore their theme.

Rarity and Distinction

Mr. Gorelli is to be commended for the time and focus he devoted to discovering these Tuscan treasures. Even the most seasoned wine connoisseurs with the richest wallets may not have been able to procure them.

His ability may be to the rigorous discipline of the Master of Wine Program, or that Mr. Gorelli can trace his wine roots back to his grandfather, a producer of Brunello di Montalcino.

“The Other Sangiovese
” –
Blind tasting dei Cru di una Toscana da scoprire

In this session, Mr. Gorelli gathered prime examples of Sangiovese from lesser-known regions. With Mr. Gorelli as our guide, we first tasted the wine blind (without knowing the region or winery) and discussed its distinctive points.

The wines are listed below.

1. Ambra 2018 • Consorzio: Carmignano •

I’ll make a note here that the Carmignano DOCG region is an exciting discovery on this visit. Check out a related article about our visit to a Medici castle in the Carmignano DOCG region.

But for now, here’s its history: Carmignano had been identified by Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany as one of the superior wine producing areas of Tuscany and granted special legal protections in 1716.

In the 1800s, the producers of the Carmignano region developed a tradition of blending Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon, long before the practice became popularized by the “Super Tuscan” of the late 20th century.

2. Atrium Sangiovese Riserva 2016 • Consorzio: Orcia 

I was pleased to sample this wine blind as I had visited Orcia a few years earlier. Here’s a link to my Forbes article about this undiscovered region.

Like most of Italy, Orcia is characterized by medieval castles, ancient villages, charming farmhouses, and unpaved roads lined with cypress trees, During my visit, I stayed in a rustic inn and a plush castle – this is the dichotomy of Orcia. You will also find a more rustic style of Sangiovese and a style with more elegance, as Mr. Gorelli showcased with the Atrium Riserva.

3. Il Pozzo Rufina Riserva 2017 • Consorzio: Rufina

I noted high acidity in this wine, likely because the vineyards sit on the hills of the western side of the Sieve river at “Il Pozzo” above the town of Rufina (Florence) at 300 meters elevation.

4. Fubbiano Riserva 2019 • Consorzio: Collene Lucchesi 

I liked this wine from a lesser-known region for is concise aromas and flavors of morello cherry. It’s also distinctive in having a generous amount of Canaiolo e Ciliegiolo graprd.

5. Collemassari Poggio Lombrone 2016 – Consorzio: Montecucco

Montecucco is one of the newer DOC regions. Wines can range from the rustic spectrum of Sangiovese to the more elegant, as is the case with this example. Vineyards are planted at a higher altitude, resulting in more acidity. You will notice a structural firm character in the wine, partly due to spending 34 months in a mix of French and Slavonian oak.

6. I.s.i.s. Angelo Vegni Sangiovese 2017 • Consorzio: Cortona

In tasting this wine, Mr. Gorelli noticed that there is “shape on the palate.” He also remarked that good Sangiovese can be made in a lighter style.

7. Badia di Morrona Vignalta Sangiovese 2016 • Consorzio Terre di Pisa •

100% Sangiovese, this wine boasted sweet cherry vanilla aromas and flavors, again made in the lighter style. Mr. Gorelli described it as a “playful” style of Sangiovese. The wine spends 24 months in oak.

8. Stebbi Podere di Casole 2018 • Consorzio: Terre di Casole

Mr. Gorelli revealed that grapes for this wine is grown on lava soil. It manifests as a lighter style of Sangiovese, and can almost be compared to a Pinot Noir in terms of its delicacy.

9. Petrolo Boggina C 2019 • Consorzio: Val d’Arno di Sopra • Denominazione: DOC VAL D’ARNO DI SOPRA SANGIOVESE VIGNA BÒGGINA RISERVA

This wine comes from Organic vineyards, made from 100% Sangiovese grapes. The vineyard was planted in 1947 by Gastone Bazzocchi, father and grandfather of the current owners.  The winery has a biological certification.

10. Valdonica Baciòlo 2018 • Consorzio: Maremma 

Mr. Gorelli described this wine as having a “pure and juicy style” and a great deal of expression.

The Value of Time Seminar

This closing session saw Mr. Gorelli presented ten wines, some over 40 years of age, still delicious and holding their own.

As you can see from the photo below, this session created quite a sensation. Why? Perhaps because outside of a few key regions celebrated by collectors, most “simple” Sangiovese wines are not expected to age.

Yet here we are, over forty years after the Selvapiana and Villa Capezzana wines were bottled, they expressed themselves well for the wine connoisseurs in attendance today.

1. Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Riserva 1980

2. Villa di Capezzana 1981

3. Podere Forte Petrucci 2008

4. Pietro Caciorgnia Le Macchie 2010

5. Campi Nuovi Sangiovese Riserva 2012

6. Fattoria Varramista Frasca 2010

7. Tenuta Belguardo 2008

8. Tenuta di Valgiano 2013

9. Poggio Sorbello Gortinaia Syrah 2014

10.Podere il Carnasciale Caberlot 2013

Overall Impression

Conducting a tasting of ten hand-selected wines per masterclass, each designed to represent “the other Sangiovese” in less than an hour, was quite a challenge.

Mr. Gorelli kept within his time frame, keeping the presentation moving as he introduced one fascinating wine after another.

The professional Italian sommeliers, smart in their gold-braid accented uniforms, worked efficiently in tandem with his presentation.

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The Arnaldo Caprai winery emerged as a clear highlight of my Umbrian trip.

This brand garnered well-deserved fame in New York city for the excellence of its wine, and its emphasis on the native Sagrantino grape.

The Arnoldo Caprai Story

This Montefalco success story began in 1971 when textiles entrepreneur Arnaldo Caprai purchased 12.5 acres in Montefalco.

Marco Caprai, (Arnoldo’s son) met me in the winery’s large, modern reception room. He has overseen the operation his father created since 1988, and a long-time advocate for the Sagrantino grape even before that.

As we walked through the vineyards, he showed me the plots dedicated for experimental plantings of the Sagrantino grape regarding training methods and clonal selection, performed in tandem with the University of Milan.

The Tasting

Arnoldo Comprai produces an assortment of wines, including fine examples from the Grechetto grape, at a variety of price points.

But wine made from the Sagrantino grape is what the winery is all about. Mid-range wines are usually a blend of Sagrantino, Sangiovese, and Merlot.

But at the top end, Comprai has produced a 100% Sagrantino wine, 25 anni Montefalco Sagrantino. The grapes have been harvested from the best vineyard, and long aging in the finest French oak have tamed the grape’s naturally tannic bite. Highly rated by important wine critics, the wine has won many awards from the most prestigious international magazines.

It was a pleasure to meet Mr. Comprai and taste this rare “Super Umbrian”
wine.

Montioni

It was very exciting to visit the Montioni winery in Montefalco. Paolo, the new generation of the family winery, is now in charge. But as he was ill, his assistant Jessica gave me a dynamic tour of the hillside vineyards followed by a tasting.

The vineyards enjoy a dynamic view from the top of the Montefalco hills. As Jessica showed me the hilltop vines, she revealed that the winery sometimes invites guests to the hilltop for tasting parties.

Back at the winery, we tasted through three of the wines. A 2018 Montefalco Rosso then the 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino (100%) that ages two years in wood. Delicious!

Finally, she poured the 2015 Ma Gia, the top of the line wine (named for Paolo’s children) that spends 30 months in oak. A rich, structured wine with lots of character.

A beautiful family winery focusing strongly (and successfully) on hospitality.

Scacciadiavoli

This winery’s name stems from a word relating to the “devil” in Italian, referring to an 14^th episode of exorcism in which the priest gave a young girl red wine to drink in order to banish the devil. It worked.

The Scacciadiavoli estate is quite impressive.  A foreign nobleman established it in 1877 with a dream of making sparkling wine.

Today the winery continues the tradition of sparkling wine, offering two new sparklers they are launching in the market. Both wines are Sagrantino based.

The first wine is made from 85% Sagrantino and 15% Chardonnay, while the other wine has a slight pink tinge and is made from 100% Sagrantino.

Both wines were so delicious I couldn’t decide which I liked more. At under $20, these IGT wines are perfect for weddings as well as to enjoy on more casual occasions.

I also tasted through their extensive production of wine, including a refreshing Grechetto, Trebbbiano, Chardonnay, and Grechetto blend, and their Montefalco Rosso wines with the usual blend of Sangrantino, Sangiovese, and Merlot. A highlight of the tasting was the 2017 Sagrantino ($100) with very smooth, balanced tannins.

Family member Liu Pambuffetti gave me an extensive tour of this lovely property, showing me the ancient cellars and even some of the original wine equipment (cement tanks) from 1909.

I loved the single varietal Sagrantino wine and can’t wait to see these Sangrantino-based sparklers in the American market.

Two Winemaker Dinners

Marisa sitting on the “glass ceiling” at Briziarelli Winery

Paolo Bartolomi of Le Cimate holding his special bottle. 

Both Le Cimate and Briziarelli are important wineries in Montefalco.

While time did not permit a visit during the day, I was able to tour them and taste their wine during dinners with the members of the consortium.

Briziarelli is a stunning, state-of-the-art winery producing wines from the native grapes of Montefalco. Its owners are in the brick business, which explains the brick motif in this modern, gorgeous winery that could win a prize in Architecture Digest.

During dinner, I was lucky to sit with Alessandro Giannoni, Briziarelli’s chief operating officer. Mr. Giannoni also led me up the staircase to the magical “glass floor” allowing guests to look down directly to the barrel room.

Also at my table that night was the gregarious winemaker Giampaolo Tabarrini, Mr. Tabarrini had overseen his family’s winery since 2000, working with the native grapes of Montefalco.

His ancestors had grown grapes for centuries, also livestock and cereal. In the 1980s and 1990s they sold their wine in bulk but that stopped when Mr. Tabarrini took charge of the vineyard. Today he bottles and sells his wine under the Tabarrini brand.

During the last dinner, I was fortunate enough to sit with the owner of Le Cimate, Paolo Bartoloni. Mr. Bartoloni gave me a tour of his winery, built in 1960 and which his father purchased thirty years later. He also brought out many of his wines to share with me and guests at our table.

Other producers introduced themselves to me, including Valentino Valentini of Bocale winery. Besides being a winemaker, Mr. Valentini had also been mayor of Montefalco twice.

Very grateful to the producers of Montefalco for their hospitality.  

P.S. You can find more Umbrian Wine stories with a link to the Orvieto Producers, Torgiano Producers,  Col di Betto,  &  Romanelli,

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