Sherry Academy 2022

So excited and honored to have been recruited as an official Sherry Ambassador!

Sherry wines have over 3,000 years of history, beginning with the Phoenicians. This ancient culture introduced the cultivation of vines to Cadez, Spain between 700 – 1000 BC.

During the two and a half days of classroom education associated with the Sherry Academy 2022 program, I’ve discovered so many rich details of this historic region and its wines.

Program activities included visits to key bodegas, tasting events, and various lunches and dinners organized by the Consejo Regulador.

Through these activities (divided into modules of themed lectures accompanied by related tastings and visits) our small group of international wine educators were able to “dig deep” into the foundation of the fortified wines we know as Sherry and taste examples of the different styles.

Jerez de la Frontera

Sherry is grown and produced in Jerez de la Frontera, in the South of Spain.

Sherry Academy 2022 Day 1

The first day, those who arrived early enjoyed a tour of Lustau where we toured this historic bodega and enjoyed samples of the various styles.

That night, we experienced a guided tour of historic Castillo de Los Marcos and welcome dinner in the Mezquita.

Sherry Academy 2022 Day 2

On the second day, we met sharply at 9am to learn about the unique viticulture of the Jerez region and the factors that make it so exceptional.

Our instructor for this session was Mannuel Delgado, vineyard manager at Bodegas Gonzalez Byass.

Senior Delgado’s enthusiasm for his job was apparent from the expert way he explained the terroir and climate of the region.

We learned quite a lot about the unique method for pruning (“vara y pulgar” meaning “stick and thumb”) and why they were originally necessary for quality grapes.

Yet we also discovered that today more bodegas are using mechanization because of limited trained labor for vara y pulgar method.

After the classroom session, Senior Delgado took us on a brief field trip to the La Canariera vineyard of Gonzalez Byass for a practical session on viticulture.

What a treat to see the unique Albariza soil up close.

Following a tasting of dry sherries at the property, we enjoyed lunch, followed by a tasting of sweet sherries.

That evening, we made the journey to Sanlucar de Barrameda to Bodegas Barbadillo  for a tasting of their wines followed by dinner.

 

Sherry Academy 2022 Day 3

The final third day began with an exciting (and rare!) tasting of V.O.S. and V.O.R.S. sherries, with the acronym standing for Very Old Sherries and Very Old Rare Sherries.

We also had a fun food and sherry pairing session.

This session was eye-opening in terms of discovering the many ways people can enjoy pairing sherry with easy-to-find foods, such as blue cheese, seafood, mushroom soup, game, vegetarian cuisine, and dessert.

One of the more important ideas I learned during the “Sherry enjoyment” session was the importance of temperature specifically related to sherry wines.

As a Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, I know full well that each wine style has a specific temperature range it should be served to the consumer.

Call it a personal quirk, yet I prefer Champagne at a slightly warmer temperature than recommended.

Yet I adored Fino Sherry served at the suggested cooler temperatures. Perhaps it was the warm weather of late September, but I really enjoyed a sense of ‘chill’ on my Fino.

According to the lecture on serving Sherry (especially Fino), the “rule” is to serve small amounts so that each pour from the ice-chilled bottle will reflect the right temperature.

Final Exam

The final third day began with an exciting (and rare!) tasting of V.O.S. and V.O.R.S. sherries, with the acronym standing for Very Old Sherries and Very Old Rare Sherries.

We also had a fun food and sherry pairing session.

This session was eye-opening in terms of discovering the many ways people can enjoy pairing sherry with easy-to-find foods, such as blue cheese, seafood, mushroom soup, game, vegetarian cuisine, and dessert.

One of the more important ideas I learned during the “Sherry enjoyment” session was the importance of temperature specifically related to sherry wines.

As a Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, I know full well that each wine style has a specific temperature range it should be served to the consumer.

Call it a personal quirk, yet I prefer Champagne at a slightly warmer temperature than recommended.

Yet I adored Fino Sherry served at the suggested cooler temperatures. Perhaps it was the warm weather of late September, but I really enjoyed a sense of ‘chill’ on my Fino.

According to the lecture on serving Sherry (especially Fino), the “rule” is to serve small amounts so that each pour from the ice-chilled bottle will reflect the right temperature.

This exam incorporated all the concepts we learned during the 2.5 days of our Jerez visit, our assessment of our sherry and food pairing experiences, and educational tidbits taken directly from our lectures.

Yet much of the exam also included key points taken from the Advanced Sherry Course (online) we were required to take and pass prior to our visit.

With its many modules focusing on the history of the Jerez region, as well as its viticulture and vinification, the Advanced Course served as a time-intensive investment in the on-site Academy course.

Each module of the online advanced course took more than a few hours to read. Each module concluded with an exam. It was necessary to pass 100% of this exam before one could advance to the next module.

For those of you who’ve taken the WSET Diploma course or the Fortified Wine course, or studied Sherry for the Master of Wine exam, the Advanced Online Course from the Sherry Academy goes into much more detail.

Understanding the key concepts of each module was necessary to fully appreciate the limited 2.5 days of this intensive Jerez-based Academy course.

Graduation

Graduation

The graduation ceremony was a learning experience in itself, as Consejo President Cesare Saldana Consejo went over the correct answers of what all agreed was a challenging written and tasting exam.

A celebratory dinner followed.

Conclusion

It was such a pleasure to travel to Jerez and explore its vineyards and its wine.

Yet what I appreciated most was the well-thought-out structure of the program under the auspices of Cesare Saldana and the Consejo Regulador team. 

Also a joy to meet my educator and journalist colleagues from around the world, all of us joining together in a joint mission to bring attention and appreciation for the unique Sherry region.

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Monteabellon Wines

Delightful tasting of Monteabellon wine from Ribera del Duero today, guided by the family winery’s export manager Liola Hernaez Iruzubieta

 

The setting for the tasting was the highly regarded Spanish restaurant Boqueria.

Ribera del Duero has earned an excellent reputation for its wines made from the Tempranillo grape.

The family behind Monteabellon initially gained fame with the high-quality grapes from their high-altitude vineyards. Now, after three generations, they make a wide variety of wines (different altitudes, different methods of maturation) for the domestic and international market.

Verdejo 2021

The tasting began with this elegant white wine from vineyards in the Rueda region. Light and elegant, this is a perfect pairing with fish and salads. Unoaked and vibrant.

Avaniel Tinto 2021

This young red Tempranillo wine offers freshness and fruit, perfect for a summer lunch or to pair with ham and cheese.

Monteabellon 2020 (5 Months)

 

Aged for 5 months in a mix of previously used French and American oak, this Tempranillo wine offers a touch of oak to round out the rich black fruit aromas and flavors.

 

Monteabellon 2019 (14 Months)

The additional aging of this wine, in a mix of new American oak and second use French oak, paves the way for a delicious wine with vibrant acidity and a firm structure that can pair with many different types of cuisine.

Monteabellon Finca Matambres 2017

Well rounded and elegant, this Tempranillo wine comes from one of the highest single vineyards. This accounts for its high refreshing acidity. It matures for 20 months in a mix of 80% French oak and 20% American.

Monteabellon Finca La Blanquera 2017

 

This iconic wine can rival the best wines from any premier region in the world. Rich and dense with fruit, its lifted with vibrant acidity because the grapes come from the premium high altitude single vineyard. The wine is best enjoyed with meat like steak, and can improve with at least a decade of bottle age.

A great experience to learn about these premium wines and meet the vibrant Liola, an excellent ambassador of the family winery.

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Vega Sicilia Vintage Showcase

Vega Sicilia is one of the most famous wineries in Spain today. The winery got its start in 1848, when Toribio Lecanda, a Basque landowner, bought the estate from the Marquis of Valbuena.

His objective was,to grow crops and raise cattle.  

But after he passed, his son Eloy Lecanda decided the land was better used to make wine.

The younger Lecanda soon brought back 18,000 young vines of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot from Bordeaux, France.

 

Oremus Winery in Hungary

He planted these alongside the local black grape, Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) to make brandy and spirits fine enough to win an award for quality at the Philadelphia Fair.

 That lead to his becoming the official brandy supplier to the Royal Family of Spain.  

In those days, fine award-winning brandy enjoyed by the Royal Family was a fast track to success in any venture.

Luckily for us wine lovers, that next venture was fine red wine, distinguished by carefully grown grapes and carefully matured wine.

Pairing Vega Sicilia Wine at Tasca Restaurant

In 1890, the winery was renamed Vega Sicilia when the Herrero family purchased the estate. The family dedicated itself to careful planting in the vineyard, and long maturation in the winery.
 
This high level of quality lead the estate winemaker to create two exceptional wines in 1915: Vega Sicilia and Valbuena. These wines experienced a complex maturation process, resulting in the wine’s ability to improve with age.

The mystique of Vega Sicilia helped it earn an exclusive cache that lasts to this day.

In 1982, the Alvarez family acquired Vega Sicilia.

Vega Sicila Vintages

Today I enjoyed the new vintages of several Vega Sicilia wines with Pablo Alvarez,  Owner and CEO.

 

The aim of the lunch was to showcase the new vintages of wines from several of the Vega Sicilia estates.

Of special interest was the dry white wines served with the meal, both 100% Furmint from the Oremus estate in Hungary. They included the fresher Mandolas and the more savory, richer Petracs from a single vineyard.

Several exquisite red wines followed … the 2017 Pintia made from Tinto de Toro, the name of the Tempranillo grape in Spain.

Then from the Rioja estate, I enjoyed the “first wine” – the 2018 Macan Classico, and the “second wine” the 2017 Macan. Both elegant, age-worthy examples of this estate.

Other icon wines were served… the 2015 Pintia Tinto del Toro, followed by the Unico Reserva Especial 2012, mouth filling fruit with silky tannins.

The two Ribera del Duero wines, Alion 2019 and the Valbuena 2017, were absolute treasures. The dense black fruit and power of the mouthfeel contrasted with the satin tannins on the finish.

Vega Sicilia Wine Pairing

Beyond the excellent wines, the Spanish restaurant Tasca provided a never-ending menu of Spanish-focused dishes to suit each of the diverse wines, with a trio of last courses being different types and preparation of meat and duck.

When I think of the classic, four-hour lunch businesspeople had in top Spanish restaurants over the last two centuries to forge business relationships, I never thought I’d have the chance to experience it. Today I did.

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Recaredo Spanish Sparkling Wine

Love Spanish sparkling wine? If so, you may be curious why the sight of earthworms burrowing into moist, dark vineyard soil has anything to do with the elegance of the finished wine.

Yet fine Spanish sparkling wine results from the soil in which the vines grow.

Sant Sadurní d’Anoia Land of Spanish Sparkling Wine

Recaredo is a small Spanish sparkling wine producer in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. It is located in the Penedès region of northeastern Spain.

The emphasis Recaredo places on single vineyards, indigenous grape varieties for its Spanish sparkling wine, and long maturation may seem “trendy.”

…long maturation may seem “trendy.” Click to Tweet

Yet Recaredo was the first Spanish sparkling wine to achieve biodynamic certification.

And also the first to get the Demeter international certification for biodynamic viticulture.

Demeter International is one of the largest certification organizations for biodynamic wine.

More information on Recaredo is also covered in this Forbes.com article.

Recaredo: Innovation Vs. Trends

As “fashionable” as it might seem, Recaredo’s focus on vineyard health, limited-production, and attention to quality for its Spanish sparkling wine started nearly a century ago.

It began with the ideals and practices of its founder, Josep Mata Capellades.

In 1924, winemaker Josep Mata Capellades wanted to distinguish itself from the larger Freixenet and Codorníu brands.

He planted grapes in the best vineyards and made a name for the quality of his Spanish sparkling wines.

Recaredo Today

Today Ton Mata, Mr. Capellades’ grandson, is expanding his grandfather’s vision.

He sources grapes only from his Demeter certified (biodynamic) vineyards.

Recaredo’s focus is on indigenous grape varieties (Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel·lo) for his iconic Spanish sparkling wines.

You can read more about these wines in Wine Folly.

2014 Initial Visit

During my first visit in 2014, Ton Mata began the vineyard visit by digging up a few inches of topsoil.

In that instant, hundreds of tiny worms, busily digging tunnels in the earth (and thus aerating the soil) seemed to gaze up indignantly at us for disturbing their work.

These creatures also provide nutrients for the vines with their decomposition.

These creatures also provide nutrients for the vines with their decomposition. Click to Tweet

A few minutes later, Ton Mata led me along a narrow path to observe the terroir and free-roaming animals that contribute to healthy grapes and quality Spanish sparkling wine.

Beyond biodynamics, Recaredo is famed for its long aging process  (over 30 months). The industry also respects them for their vintage-dated, Brut Nature sparkling wine.

The term “Brut Nature” refers to wines with no dosage (additional sweetening). Recaredo sees these as gastronomic wines, meant to pair well with cuisine at top restaurants. 

It is also a favorite with top sommeliers. 

The Turó d’en Mota Vineyard

A prime example of its wine is the limited-production,100% Xarel-lo bottling from the special Turó d’en Mota vineyard.

The word Turó means hill. Mota refers to the family who owned the house on the hill and surrounding vineyards. Vinified for over 12 years, this wine retails at over $160.

Spanish Sparkling Wine: The New Order

In the past, many wine lovers used the term “Cava” and “Spanish Sparkling Wine” interchangeably.

Both wines can be similar in terms of the (mostly) indigenous grape varieties used. Also that Recaredo makes them using the “traditional method” of a secondary fermentation.

This secondary fermentation is how the Spanish sparkling wine get their sparkle.

The “traditional method” produces bubbles by trapping C02 in the bottle. This results in a yeasty aroma of fresh baked bread and also imparts a rich mouthfeel (texture) from the breakdown of spent yeast cells.

The Cava DO (Denominación de Origen) has strict requirements about all aspects relating to viticulture, vinification, and maturation of wine that have the Cava DO on their label.

For many years, Recaredo adhered to the Cava DO regulations even though they put more emphasis on quality and longer maturation. But in January 2019, Recaredo, together with eight more family wineries, left the Cava DO.

Each sparkling wine producer had their own reason for this. One common reason they share is more freedom and the opportunity to create a unique Spanish sparkling wine style, often from limited-production, long aged wines.

Visiting Recaredo

Now, all Recaredo’s labels fall under the CORPINNAT European Collective brand.

In the past – before the Pandemic – guests could enjoy a variety of different tours and Spanish sparkling wine tasting events.

Depending on the season, this could include a vineyard tour, watching a demonstration of how to disgorge a Spanish sparkling wine without freezing the bottle’s neck.

Or a tasting of some of their older vintage wines, some matured for as much as ten years on the lees (spent yeast cells).

Before your visit, contact the winery to check on what wine tasting and touring experiences are possible and their prices. 

One can make an appointment to visit Recaredo in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia (Penedès) by contacting the winery at visites@recaredo.comor calling +34 938 910 214.  

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Ribera del Duero Red Wine

When it comes to Spanish red wine, most wine lovers recognize the Rioja region of Spain.

The reason is partly historic. Initially, sea-faring Phoenicians sailing up the Ebro River enjoyed the wine of the Rioja region.

A few centuries later, the wine was exported to ancient Rome, where it achieved wider fame.

So it is understandable that Ribera del Duero red wine is a more recent addition to famous, long-lived Spanish wine.

 Ribera del Duero Red Wine Vs. Rioja

First it is important to discuss the similarities between Ribera del Duero red wine  and Rioja in terms of Spanish Red Wine.

Here is What Ribera del Duero Red Wine and Rioja Have in Common:

– both are Tempranillo based
– both comprise Spain’s most age-worthy wines
– at the higher quality levels (above Crianza) both wines are aged in oak

Though they are both Tempranillo-based, the wines have a very different taste profile and structure.

This is partly for the following reasons:

• Rioja red wine is almost always a blended product, with common blending partners being Grenache, Mazuelo, and Graciano.- In the past, Rioja was almost always aged for very long periods in American oak.

Increasingly, a blend of French and American oak is used with the exclusive use of French oak being even more common.

In contrast:

• Ribera del Duero red wine vineyards are at a much higher elevation, giving the wines higher, more refreshing acidity.

• While some Ribera del Duero red wine is 100% Tempranillo, others are blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot.

• Ribera del Duero red wine is almost always aged in French oak, much of it first use.

Comparing the two Tempranillo-based wines

A blind tasting of Ribera del Duero red wine and Rioja is challenging, because so much of it is producer-driven.

That said, on examinations given by the Masters of Wine – and other educational programs – the organizers seek to find “typical examples.”

Typically, this means that the Rioja wine would have the traditional characteristics such as American – rather than French – oak.

In the past, traditional Rioja aged for many years in barrel.

Some tasters, when speaking of traditional Rioja wines, also report qualities of leather, rawhide, and horsehide.

Because of all the oak maturation, it’s also difficult to discern an actual fruit character in a traditional Rioja – though strawberries come to mind.

The Contrast

In contrast to the traditional style of Rioja with its marked character of American oak, today’s wine examiners might contrast it in a blind tasting with the “modern” style of Ribera del Duero.

In the last 20 years high-end Ribera del Duero red wine producers have been stepping up their game.

To take advantage of their high elevation vineyards and special terroir, they have been lavish with the use of new French oak.

Though a mix of first, second, and third use French oak is typically used, some wineries use 100% new French oak.

The addition of Cabernet Sauvignon as a blending component in a Ribera del Duero wine imparts an even firmer structure.

This also gives the wine a more black-fruit quality, as opposed to the red-fruit strawberry flavors of Rioja.

Spanish Red Wine: Rioja Vs. Ribera del Duero

The best way to discern the differences between these two wines is to procure a bottle of each.

Pay a personal visit to a wine store you know and trust, and tell the manager or clerk you want to try these two wines.

You will want to compare the same, or a similar vintage.

It’s very possible that the Ribera del Duero wine may be more expensive, even dramatically so.

This is because fashion has turned the tide.

Today the more limited production of Ribera del Duero wine, the liberal use of expensive French oak, and the plethora of boutique wineries in the region have made the wines expensive and hard to find.

When you are ready for the taste test, find two identical glasses and be certain that the wines are at the same serving temperature.

Checklists for Rioja and Ribera Del Duero Red Wine

1. The color

The Ribera del Duero wine is more likely a much darker color compared to Rioja. It could even be black compared to the red-brown color of a Rioja.

2. The aroma

Chances are the Rioja wine will have aromas of strawberry, as well as dill and a sawdust character from American oak. You will smell the wood.

In contrast, the Ribera del Duero wine will have aromas of black fruit like blackberries and black cherries. You will also detect some vanilla notes from the French oak.

3. The taste and mouthfeel

The Rioja wine might taste of strawberry and dusty oak. The tannins might have a corduroy quality – which is to say slightly rough.

The Ribera del Duero wine will likely taste of blackberry, and black currant. You will sense the refreshing high acidity.

The tannin profile is more like satin or velvet, and the wine will have a firmer structure and longer length of finish.

Every producer and vintage is different, so your results may vary.

Yet this is an important comparison to make if you want to discover the true difference between these two popular Spanish wine regions.

Visit to Valdubon : Ribera del Duero Red Wine Winery

Below is a report from a 2015 visit to Valdubon, a Ribera del Duero.

Dark-eyed winemaker Javier Aladro welcomes me to the winery with a smile.

We are standing in the vat room of the compact, efficient winery in Ribera del Duero.

Workers all around us busily prepare for the harvest. At Javier’s side is energetic Andrea Sanz, assistant winemaker.

The Freixenet & Ferrer Family Connection

At the time, the winery was one of the newer jewels in the crown of Freixenet, the famous Spanish sparkling wine (Cava) company.

In recent years the Ferrer family has been buying many prestigious properties in Spain.

Peter Ferrer Bosch and his wife established the dynasty more than a century ago in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, about an hour from Barcelona.

The Valdubon Philosophy

Javier and Andrea lead me around the property. They explain the Ferrer family philosophy.

This is to craft wines unique to the place they grow. And also  respect the local winegrowing practices.

At Valdubon, Javier must adhere to the region’s demand that 85% of the blend be Tempranillo.

But a nod to both modern times – and to the success of neighboring high-end Vega Sicilia – Valdubon can add international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Garnacha in varying amounts.

Vat Room Secrets

A chemist by training, Javiar is constantly experimenting.

In the vat room he shows me one of the secrets of his blend.

The main secret consists of fermenting the grapes in distinct ways.

Some grapes are put in a stainless steel vat with automated punch downs five times an hour. This gives the wine a deeper color and structure.

The problem with this method is that it does not bring out the aroma.

So this means they put other grapes in a stainless steel vat. This serves to close off all oxygen and give the blend a very good aroma.

Eventually the grapes in the vats, once combined, age in barrique.

The Ribera del Duero Red Wine Soil

The soil here is clay and sand.

The method of vine training is Double Cordon for vines under twenty years of age.

Older vines experience traditional bush / goblet training.

The reason is that the bush vines are low to the ground, so the roots can reach water more easily.

This method also protects them from the hot, dry sun.

As it rarely rains, the branches need not be raised so air can circulate.

What gives the wine its special character is the diurnal temperature between the very sunny and warm days and very cool nights.

Frost can be an issue here, even in summer, and hail.

The Ribera del Duero Red Wine Harvest

The grapes are hand harvested by the local families who grow the grapes under Javiar’s instruction, with the grapes from the older vines destined for aging, and the young vines (Joven) made for early consumption.

These grapes ferment for about twenty days at temperatures 18 – 20 C (60 – 68 F) with select yeast taken from the vineyard but improved in the laboratory to make for a certain fermentation.

During the tasting that followed, this wine, 2009 Valdubon Cosecha, was light and somewhat fruity, with outstanding balance and fruit.

It ferments the older vines at warmer temperatures 25 – 28 (82 – 84) for 25 – 28 days, resulting in a more pronounced color.

Aged to be Crianza and Reserva, these wines at the tasting were deeply colored and full-bodied, with a balance of ripe fruit, licorice, vanilla, and coconut from the extended aging.

In contrast to most other Ribera del Duero producers, wine is aged here in 75% American oak, 25% French, for up to three years for Crianza and five for Reserva (a mix of time spent in oak and bottle).

The Ribera del Duero red wine from Valdubon is delicious and Javiar Aladro is proud of his work in the vineyard and is carrying out the Ferrer family’s goal of creating truly terroir-driven wine.

Here’s a video of the Ribera del Duero region from the Guild of Sommeliers

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If you like this article you will like:

— Dominus Estate
— Chappellet Family Winery
— Hess Collection
— Frog’s Leap

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About Author Marisa D’Vari

D’Vari contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post, and more.

She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator  through the Society of Wine Educators … to see it all, please click on bio

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Wine and Food Holidays in Basque Country Spain

How to Plan a Great Wine and Food Holiday in Basque Country Spain

When I was 14 years old, I remember the first day of my Spanish class in Junior High.

I walked into the classroom.

When I caught my first glimpse of my professor, my heart began to race!

His name was Mr. Leon.

While not exactly tall, he was extremely dark and handsome.

He was from the Basque region of Spain.

And from that moment, I could not wait to learn the language and visit the Basque Country of Spain.

My Taste of Basque Country Cuisine

Ten years later, a family friend invited me to taste the cuisine of Martin Berasategui.

It was then that I had my first taste of octopus prepared with its own black ink.

Though the dish sounds rather canabalistic, it was delicious!

That first bite, rich with flavor, only heightened my desire to have a holiday in Basque Country Spain.

Today Chef Martin Berasategui owns several restaurants, one you can visit in Gipuzkoa (see details at end of story)

**Click Here to Access Marisa’s List of Best Wine Books**

Is Basque Country in Spain?

Most people outside of Spain assume that Basque Country – including the large city of Barcelona – is in Spain.

Geographically it is in the country of Spain, but the Basque Country (or Euskadi as it is also known) has a very different culture from the Mainland in Spain.

I experienced that first hand when breakfast in one of my Basque country hotels featured grilled tomatoes, garlic, bread, and fresh olive oil (even more fabulous than it sounda!)

The language of the Basque people is Euskera, which is the oldest language of Europe.

Most everybody speaks Spanish.

And during my visit to Bilbao and San Sebastian, the hotel staff and staff at the restaurants I visited spoke English.

I also heard the staff speak French as well.

The Basque region and Basque culture is very popular with European tourists.

Getting to the Basque Region

It is very easy to get to the Basque region.

Most all European airlines fly to Bilboa.

It is a small and manageable airport.

From the Bilbao airport, you can take a bus into the city, rent a car, or take a cab.

It is just 20 minutes away.

Getting to San Sebastian from the Bilboa Airport

The beautiful seaside town of San Sebastian is a lovely drive less than 90 minutes from the Bilboa airport.

You can rent a car, take a bus, order a taxi, and pre-arrange transport from your hotel.

The taxi we ordered upon landing was fairly expensive … over 100 Euros.

And though the driver was nice and cab was clean, you might consider splurging with a hotel pick-up and arrive in style for about the same cost.

A quick search on the Internet can also reveal transport you can arrange in advance for about half the price.

Arrival in San Sebastian

Arrive in San Sebastian on a sunny day, and be prepared to be wowed.

The style of the architecture is Belle Epoque, just like Nice, France.

As you walk along the gorgeous boardwalk, you can just imagine yourself doing a “promenade” here in the 18^th century.

You can stop in many cafes for a drink.

It’s worth a splurge to pay the extra price and seek out a nice cafe overlooking the gorgeous sea.

On a beautiful summer night, we enjoyed the view and the still sunny skies until nearly 9:30 pm, when we had to leave for our restaurant reservations.

Dining and Eating in San Sebastian

San Sebastian has a well deserved reputation is a food-obsessed city, packed with fabulous 3-star Michelin restaurants.

Please believe me when I say it is necessary to research these restaurants, and book almost a year in advance.

With just seven months advance, none of the top Michelin restaurants was available to book.

Even though I was confident that at least ONE restaurant would have a cancellation, that was not the case.

In the end, that worked out well because restaurants without a star do work very hard to impress you with their creativity and their cuisine.

The Pintxos Bars

The region of Rioja, Spain, is famous for its tapas.

People just eye the delicious looking food inside the bars, choose a few items and a glass of wine, and take it an upturned barrel outside.

San Sebastian is similar.

And though the tapas in Rioja are tasty …

… well, the pintxos (tapas like snacks) are more attractively displayed and quite delicious.

It is typical to visit a few of the pintxos bars and choose an item or two at each location.

The more popular hours are between 5pm and 9pm, when it is too late for a formal lunch and too early for the notoriously late Basque Country dinner.

The city is filled with a wide range of pintxos bars, offering traditional Basque dishes and wines.

What to do on a Sunny Day In San Sebastian

The beaches of San Sebastian are spectacular.

They are among the finest in the world.

And the sunbathing …

… ooh la la!

You will find cafes overlooking the beach that are quite pleasant.

Bicycling or hiking are popular activities.

What to do on a Rainy Day

San Sebastian is in the North of Spain, and it rains quite a bit.

Since one of the many key attractions of the city is eating, this is a great rainy day activity in itself!

I took advantage of the rain to visit the San Telmo Museoa (watch fabulous video here)

That had some great archeological collections.

Rainy Day Cooking Classes

San Sebastien is popular with foodies around the world who dream of coming here and going back to their country as a master chef.

I can testify that it CAN be possible.

We were in San Sebastian during a long rainy spell.

This made us appreciate our first day, filled with glorious sunshine.

Luckily, I was able to grab two spots at a cooking class offered in our Maria Cristina hotel from a culinary brand called Cooking with Memo.

Our class was around four hours, and included a lot of fun, a lot of wine, and a full 4 course sit down lunch.

And yes, a break during the cooking session with wine.

It was a lot of fun and we met some other fun people who enjoyed cooking with a lot of passion.

Then There Is … The Maria Cristina Hotel

You will find delightful hotels at all price ranges in San Sebastian.

For this trip, we chose the posh Maria Cristina hotel.

We also chose a view of the ocean.

Behold  the gorgeously appointed, luxuriously furnished room, the luxury marble bathroom, and the spa.

It is a pleasure just to spend a rainy afternoon inside the room or the spa.

Appropriate Amount of Time to Book a Holiday in Basque Country

There are many beautiful regions in Basque Country.

In this article, there was really only enough room to talk about San Sebastian.

Yet you can drive to nearby Rioja and visit the gorgeous Frank Gehry structure at the Marques de Riscal Hotel and Guggenheim Museum.

You will read about more attractions in the interview I had with Maider Etxebarria, the Director of Tourism in the Basque Country Government.

Booking Michelin Star Restaurants Well in Advance

If your goal is to really visit all the top Michelin restaurants in San Sebastian, book as many nights as you can get dinner reservations for.

If your goal is to enjoy the beach and taste the delicious pintxos, two or three nights is fine.

Bilboa is very pretty and is also very rich in history.

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Interview with Maider Etxebarria, the Director of Tourism in the Basque Country Government.

It’s very exciting that the Basque region is actively promoting tourism and is sponsoring in large part the International Wine Tourism Conference.

It is one of the biggest tourism conferences in the world, bringing together top level tourism professionals.

The Interview

 – Maider Etxebarria, what is Basque country and how it is different from Spain culturally?

The Basque Country or Euskadi, as it is also known, has always been a country

that due to its characteristics, its size and the entrepreneurial nature of its citizens.

It has been open to the world and we continue to do so as a host land and a tourism

based on a unique, sustainable culture.

A small region that counts on the incentive of the best gastronomy and with the hospitality of its people.

The Basque Country has always been a land of connectivity and willing to open routes.

A good example of this is that the first circumnavigation of the globe was completed by the sailor Juan Sebastián Elkano, commanding the Ship Vitoria

– What are the top key cities in Basque country everyone should see?

The Basque Country is ideal to enjoy in short stages.

Distances are short between the three capitals; Vitoria, Bilbao and San Sebastian.

It is the ideal place to enjoy numerous attractions in a short space of time because of its varied landscapes, pleasant climate, the sea, the mountains, an ancient culture and world-famous cuisine.

Bilbao, cutting-edge metropolis, San Sebastián, beautiful and refined, or Vitoria-Gasteiz, our “green capital”.

The best thing is that you don’t have to choose – you can visit all three as they’re so close together.

What is the best way to get to the Basque region from an American city?

For example, should they fly to Madrid or Barcelona?  After that what airport is best to begin their Basque country adventure?

The Basque Country is the natural point of entry from the continent towards the southern hemisphere.

We are in the transit zone between the Spanish and Portuguese markets and the rest of Europe, within an area of influence of more than 2,000 square kilometers connecting more than 10 European Union regions, with 80 million inhabitants, which makes up 25% of the population of the Euro zone.

The Basque Government has developed a management model for the Basque airports based on complementarity, which includes the three airports at Hondarribia/San Sebastián; Loiu/Bilbao and Foronda/Vitoria: one airport, three terminals that connect the Basque Country to the main hubs in Europe.

– Everyone speaks highly of the fantastic cuisine in the Basque country. What are some examples of unique cuisine?

Cuisine is at the core of Basque culture.

It is part of our tradition, of the customs that have been preserved over the centuries, passed down from generation to generation.

Sharing our region’s outstanding food is a way to bring people together, a place to meet, a cult of friendship.

Our cuisine is internationally recognized as one of the best on the planet, a reputation built on experienced professionals from different sectors who stay true to the basics: quality of ingredients.

The Basque Country boasts the highest concentration of restaurants highly recommended by the most prestigious reviews.

No less than 31 Michelin stars in a country that can be travelled from one extreme to the other in less than two hours.

We are a point of reference globally in Food and Wine Tourism, which is one of the main reasons why people from all over the world visit us.

Eating and drinking well is an affordable luxury in the Basque Country.

Local seasonal products in pintxo form (basque snacks) with a good wine from the Rioja Alavesa, txakoli (white basque wine) or cider.

You will be in gourmet paradise!

Enjoy! Experiment, observe, then give way to the passion of taste.

– In America the times for meals are fairly defined across the nation. In Basque country, what are the typical times to vegan breakfast, lunch, and dinner?

The late meal times in the Basque Country can be a little confusing for a visitor.

Yet the offer is so wide that no one will be left without an opportunity to taste the gastronomy regardless of schedules.

In Euskadi almost any time can be suitable for eating.

There are early and late breakfasts, the meals are usually late for European schedules, but the Basque hospitality adapts to any demand.

– A region such as San Sebastian, is famous for its gastronomy.  What are three of your favorite restaurants and how far is it necessary to make a reservation in advance?

The Basque Country is a paradise for lovers of fine food and wine, offering you enormous variety as well as quality.

Restaurants serving nouvelle cuisine or traditional cooking, spectacularly designed or simple and cosy.

San Sebastian and its surroundings are strewn with the culinary stars.

Year after year the influential Michelin Guide recognizes them as the best cooks on the planet.

They include Martín Berasategi, Juan Mari Arzak, Pedro Subijana and Andoni Aduriz, along with their colleagues from other local towns, make up part of the stellar constellation.

This has made San Sebastian’s cuisine one of the Basque’s Country’s main tourist attractions.

Yet these culinary stars also belong, in a certain way, to every pintxo bar,

restaurant, cider bar and carvery that enriches the capital and its surroundings.

 – What is the best time of year to visit Basque country?

Anytime.

The climate of the Basque Country due to the influence of the sea is delightful.

You can enjoy it in autumn, with colorful forests.

In spring, with the green of the mountains or the valleys.

In the summer with hundreds of kilometers of coasts and beaches.

And in winter with mountain routes and cities with their unique shops.

– Most people know that there are many water sports in the Basque region because it is near the sea.

 In terms of waves and surfing, you will find that the coast from San Sebastian to Getxo, through Zarautz, Sopelana, Bakio and Mundaka, has the best waves in Europe.

The love of surfing is reflected in the endless number of surfers from around the world who make the pilgrimage to these beaches.

The towering waves provided by the Cantabrian Sea (some ranked World Class) make it possible to hold major championships such as those of San Sebastian, Zarautz and Sopelana.

The latter two are included in the European and World circuits.

Also the Punta Galea Big Challenge in Getxo (World Big Wave

Tour). Click here for more information

What about activities for people who enjoy nature?

If someone asked me what color Euskadi is, I would say green.

Euskadi is not only cities, but it is also nature.

Well-preserved nature spots, mountains and valleys, with well-marked routes to enjoy.

There are many possibilities to enjoy nature in Euskadi, from adventure activities to family walks.

A wide offer that could describe us as a natural paradise.

Euskadi has natural national parks, 23% of its total area, there are also environments for bird watching.

In Euskadi we take care of our land and that is why it is a country that can be enjoyed in a sustainable way.

– i love the gentle sparkling wine of txakoli. Can tourists visit wineries in Basque Country?

 You can visit working wineries and take part in tastings.

Sometimes they are offered in the evening to learn the secrets of this very special wine.

In passing you will also get to know coastal and inland towns full of local colour and traditions.

You will see the vineyards that produce the grape that performs the magic of turning into “txakoli”.

When the staff shows you how to combine it with other local products like Idiazabal cheese, Bermeo anchovies or Gernika peppers you will feel like a qualified sommelier.

Thank you Maider Etxebarria, the Director of Tourism in the Basque Country Government, for your time and enthusiasm with this excellent interview!

Love Spanish Wine? Check out this Fabulous Region

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Hotels in San Sebastian

Maria Cristina
Paseo Republica Argentina 4
San Sebastian 20004 Spain

+34 943 43 76 00

Restaurants in San Sebastien

Martín Berasategui

Loidi Kalea, 4 – 20160 Lasarte-Oria (Gipuzkoa)
Lat. 43.2668 / Lon. -2.0155
Tel. (+34) 943 366 471 / (+34) 943 361 599
info@martinberasategui.com

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